If the attic space is large and the roof is not constructed with roof trusses, often only minor framing work is required to create a useable bedroom space. On the contrary, building a bedroom addition onto your existing home requires an extensive amount of planning and design, as you are literally building a small home, if you will, onto the side of your home. Extra care has to be taken into how the bedroom melds into the existing homes exterior. In addition, there are demolishion costs with building a bedroom addition that also add to the overall cost of the project. So if your home has a large attic and you need an additional bedroom you cant go wrong by choosing an attic bedroom conversion for gaining the extra bedroom.

An attic bedroom conversion, however, does present its own set of unique challenges. For example, if the roof has a shallow pitch and there is limited ingress and egress into the attic then the attic may not be well suited for creating a bedroom in it. Also, an attics floor joists are often not large enough for supporting a finished living space. As a result, larger lumber may need to be sistered to the existing lumber. For example, nailing 2x8s to the existing attic 2x6 floor joists.

Most attics dont have windows in them.

So you may also need to figure out a solution for adding windows in the bedroom attic. Skylights are a fairly inexpensive alternative. Also, you can consider adding a dormer off the roof line where the attic bedroom will be located. The dormer can include windows to help bring in natural light into the room.

If you are seriously thinking about an attic bedroom conversion visit your local building inspector and an architect to see what your viable options are for doing so.

Photo by Mark Donovan

If, for example, the roof is constructed out of roof trusses you may not be allowed to finish the attic. Roof trusses are carefully designed to support the roof and each truss member plays a critical role in the roof trusses structural integrity. Thus, cutting roof truss members is typically not allowed. Unless, however, an architect can develop a modified truss design to maintain the structural integrity of the roof.

Access to an Attic Bedroom

Attic bedroom ingress and egress are imperative for functional and safety reasons. An attic ladder is not a viable or legal solution for ingress/egress to an attic bedroom. Consequently your attic bedroom conversion will need access via a standard staircase. Creating the staircase, if it does not already exist, can consume a sizeable amount of the lower levels living space. In addition, the placement of attic staircase needs to be such that there is full headroom as one enters into the attic via the staircase.

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Photo by Mark Donovan

Knee Walls

Most attic bedrooms will need knee walls constructed that tie in the roof line to the attic floor. Typically knee walls are three to four feet high and help to define the attic bedroom space.

Strengthening Attic Floor Joists

Again, most likely the attic floor joists are inadequate for supporting the weight of a finished room. Thus, larger (taller) attic floor joists will need to be sistered, or attached, to the existing ones.

Then subfloor sheathing can be attached to the taller floor joists. If you dont sister in the larger floor joists, the lower level finished drywall ceiling will most likely experience cracks in it in short order due to the deflection in the attic floor.

Inclusion of Natural Light

Attics are typically void of natural light. Consequently your attic conversion bedroom plans should include the installation of skylights and/or windows to bring in the natural light. Windows also allow for airflow into the attic. Consider adding windows on the gable end of the attic roof area, or include a dog or shed dormer in the attic bedroom area with windows. Dormers also enable additional full height headroom in the attic bedroom.

Heating and Cooling an Attic Bedroom

Attic spaces can be extremely warm during the summer months, and cold during the winter ones. Consequently copious amounts of insulation are imperative when building a bedroom in an attic. In addition, the inclusion of air conditioning and heat into the space are also vital. Tying an attic bedroom into a homes existing HVAC system is often difficult. As a result, look for HVAC solutions that can be dedicated to heating and cooling the attic bedroom separately. Talk with an HVAC professional to determine what the best solution is for your situation.

Incorporation of Bathroom in Attic

Including a bathroom in an attic has its own set of unique challenges. For example, where to locate the plumbing supply and drain lines. Installing drain lines in an attic can be the most challenging since there is limited height in the attic floor. Drain lines need to be pitched to ensure waste water can drain downwards and into the septic tank system or sewer. Ensuring the proper drain pitch can be tough with limited vertical height in the attic floor.

Photo by Mark Donovan

In addition, routing the plumbing drain lines and supply lines through the attic floor joists can be difficult as it requires cutting the joists. In some cases, an attic bathroom may need to be elevated in the attic to obtain enough space to route the plumbing drain lines.

Then there is also the issue with the additional weight of a full bathtub in an attic. Again, the attic floor joists will need to be sized properly to support the weight of a tub full of water and a person.

Attic Bedroom Safety

Attic bedrooms are high up and may have only one main ingress/egress method, e.g. staircase. Consequently, for safety purposes a window ladder may need to be included in the attic bedroom conversion plans to enable occupants of the bedroom to be able to exit it in the event of a fire.

It is also vital to make sure smoke alarms and Carbon Monoxide detectors are included in the attic bedroom. If a bathroom is included, a GFCI breaker will need to be installed in it to prevent life threatening electrical shock.

Final Thoughts

An attic bedroom conversion is an ideal solution for creating an additional bedroom in your home, if the attic conditions are appropriate for it. Make sure to check first with an architect and your local building inspector before starting this type of project to see if your attic is suitable for a bedroom conversion. If it is, come up with a well thought out set of plans and get them approved with the building inspector before starting the construction. Also make sure to pull the required permits. With proper upfront planning and a solid set of attic bedroom conversion blueprints, you should be able to achieve the bedroom space you are looking for at a very reasonable price.

For help on Attic Conversion and Attic Remodeling Projects, see HomeAdditionPlus.com's Attic Conversion Bid sheet. The Attic Conversion Bid sheet will help to ensure that you hire the right contractor so that your attic conversion project is built correctly, on time and budget.

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Attic Bedroom Conversion | Attic Remodeling | Bedroom

Heating and cooling your attic can be a challenge. In summer, intense sunlight cooks the large expanse of the roof over your head; in winter, drafts from wind and cold suck the cozy out of your new attic remodel. Adequately insulating your remodel and extending your HVAC system are the keys to heating and cooling it year-round.

Insulation options

There are many types of attic insulation to install between roof rafters the most important factor in heating and cooling the attic. Choose the highest possible R-value (a materials ability to block heat moving through it), and install it correctly to prevent heat loss in winter and heat gain in summer. Also leave a couple of inches between insulation and rafters to allow airflow from soffit vents to roof vents.

Fiberglass batts: Six-inch-thick, high-density fiberglass batt insulation with an R-value of 21 (40 cents/sq. ft.) fits snugly in most 2x8 rafter space but also leaves a couple of inches of airspace. In extreme climates, add more insulation to your attic ceiling by increasing the depth of each rafter by nailing 2x2s on the bottom edges of the rafters. The added depth can accommodate R-30 (43 cents/sq.ft.), 8.5-inch-thick high-density fiberglass batt insulation.

Rigid foam: One way to bump up the R-value of your batts is to attach 1-inch-thick sheets of rigid foam to the rafters over fiberglass insulation, then drywall over it. That combination adds an R-value of about R-6. Expect to pay about $1.30/sq.ft. Of course, adding depth to your rafters lowers the ceiling, so make sure your new ceiling height doesnt violate code restrictions for attic ceilingstypically 7 feet 6 inches.

Spray foam: A third heating and cooling option is to have professionals spray foam into the area between the rafters. The R-value of spray foam is approximately twice that of fiberglass of similar thickness. Prices for spray foam installation vary widely by marketexpect to pay a minimum of $3/sq.ft.

Be sure to insulate interior walls between the living area and any unused portion of the attic, such as the space behind knee walls. Also, plug any heating or cooling escape routes at the ends of gables or around existing windows.

Extending heating and cooling systems

Insulation keeps heating and cooling IN your new attic space, but your HVAC system delivers the heat and cool TO the space. Consult with an HVAC professional to determine if your existing system has the capacity to handle the extra load. Even so, you may have to find a path for new ductwork. In some instances, you can borrow space from a closet in the living area below your attic.

If installing new ductwork isnt feasible, consider installing electric baseboard heaters. Two 1,000-watt baseboard heaters, plus a small baseboard heater for the bathroom, will warm the attic for about $150.

Small air conditioners also can supplement or replace your central air conditioning system. Small window units and portable air conditioners that provide between 7,000 and 10,000 BTUs of cooling power will adequately cool a 15x15 attic room. Expect to pay $300 to $600 for a small air conditioner.

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Attic Remodeling Heating | Cooling Systems Attic Remodeling

By Dr. Mercola

Many people covet the new car smell that comes of a new car. A similar smell comes along with some new carpeting and is typically a sure sign it is releasing toxic volatile organic compounds (VOCs) into your homes air.

VOCs can include highly toxic chemicals such as formaldehyde and acetaldehyde, along with benzene, toluene, perchloroethylene, and more. In the short term, such as immediately after new carpeting is installed, VOCs may cause headaches, nausea, and nerve problems, along with irritation to your eyes, nose, and throat.

Over time, exposure to VOCs has been linked to an increased risk of cancer in animal studies.1 VOCs come from many sources, but those released in your home are potentially the most dangerous because they accumulate in the air (whereas VOCs released outdoors are naturally diluted).

The largest release of VOCs from new carpeting will occur in the first 72 hours after installation. However, low levels can continue to be emitted for years later (adding to the other VOCs in your homes air from paints, varnishes, furniture, and other sources).

This is likely one reason why new carpet installation is associated with wheezing and coughing in babies during their first year of life,2 although there are other chemicals of concern as well. As reported by the Ecology Center:3

Synthetic carpets are made from nylon fibers with a polypropylene backing. Of the chemicals released from carpet, most notable are styrene and 4-phenylcyclohexane (4-PC), both of which come from the latex backing used on 95 percent of carpets.

The new carpet aroma is the odor of 4-PC off-gassing, which is an eye and respiratory-tract irritant that may also affect the central nervous system. The adhesive used to affix the carpet to the floor typically contains benzene and toluene, some of the most harmful VOCs.

Carpeting, including its backing, adhesives, and padding, is often treated at the factory with toxic flame retardants, stain protectors, and moth repellants. A report from Greenpeace Research Laboratories explained:4

The majority of industrially produced carpets contain a range of chemical additives. Chemicals are impregnated during the manufacture of the carpet fiber or are introduced externally as topical treatments on the final product.

The proposed purpose of some of these chemicals is to protect against dust mites, bacteria, molds and fungi. However, the addition of chemicals to carpets results in potential human exposure to hazardous chemicals in the home and other indoor environments.

Greenpeace research analyzed eight carpet samples and found some contain high levels of endocrine-disrupting organotins, flame retardants, and permethrin (a pesticide), along with low levels of formaldehyde.

Flame-retardant chemicals, like PBDEs, have been linked to serious health risks like infertility, birth defects, neurodevelopmental delays, reduced IQ scores and behavioral problems in children, hormone disruptions, and various forms of cancer.

In fact, PBDEs were recently identified as one of 17 high priority chemical groups that should be avoided to reduce your breast cancer risk.5

When flame retardants are combined with VOCs, pesticides, and the additional chemical cocktail in carpeting (and other synthetic household products), its anyones guess what the result may be on human health and the environment (but rising rates of allergies, asthma, and chronic diseases give some indication).

If you can, avoid carpeting altogether in favor of less toxic flooring surfaces (like hardwood, bamboo, or stone/tile). If not, its important to know how to green your carpet.

This takes a bit of due diligence, as even seemingly healthier carpets, like those that include recycled materials can be problematic. Some manufacturers are using a byproduct from coal-fired power plants, called coal fly ash, in their recycled carpeting, which is concerning because it may contain toxic heavy metals.6

First, consider carpeting and rugs made from natural materials, like wool. These will (typically) not contain flame-retardants or stain-resistant chemicals and will naturally repel insects. Carpets made from wool make up only a very small percentage of total production (0.4 percent) while nylon has the largest market share (57 percent).7

You can also look for carpeting with the Green Label Plus, which is given to the lowest-emitting carpet, adhesive, and cushion products on the market. The downside is that the Green Label Plus program is industry-run by the Carpet and Rug Institute.

When your carpet is installed (even if its Green Label), its recommended that you have it unrolled and allow it to air-out in a well-ventilated space for 72 hours prior to installation (such as in a warehouse). If thats not possible, its best to stay elsewhere for the first 72 hours after new carpeting is installed, and keep the area well ventilated to release toxins.

You may also want to consider buying refurbished carpet, or having yours cleaned using non-toxic methods, instead of buying new, which will be better for your health and the environment. If youll be disposing of your old carpeting, be aware that pulling up old carpet will release significant amounts of toxins into the air, so precautions should be taken. Billions of pounds of old carpeting are sent to landfills every year, causing considerable environmental pollution and burden. Check out the Carpet America Recovery Effort to find out if your old carpet can be recycled.8

The issue of household chemicals is complex and stretches far beyond carpeting. Flame retardant chemicals, for instance, are also found in furniture and other household goods. Theyve even been detected in laundry wash water, according to scientists with the Washington Toxics Coalition.9 They tested household dust and wash water and found flame retardant chemicals in all samples tested.

They believe the chemicals are sloughing off couches and TVs, collecting on clothing and washing out in the laundry. From there, theyre going right through wastewater treatment plants and out into local waterways.

Prior studies have shown flame retardants in the Columbia River as well as wildlife in the area, and the new research provides a potential explanation why. Today, it's estimated that 90 percent of Americans have some level of flame-retardant chemicals in their bodies. The studys lead author explained:

Toxic flame retardants are hitchhiking on our clothes and literally coming out in the wash This study demonstrates for the first time a key way that toxic flame retardants found in our homes are transported to outdoor environments.

Toxic chemicals are literally all around us, including in the personal care products, such as makeup and perfume, that many people use daily. One recent study by researchers at the University of Columbia in New York measured chemicals called phthalates used widely in plastics and personal care products in the urine of pregnant women. Those with the highest levels had children who were 72 percent more likely to develop asthma.10

And, compared to women with low levels, children born to women with the highest levels of one type of phthalate (di-n-butyl phthalate) had a 78 percent greater risk of asthma. The researchers urged women to check their makeup for the presence of phthalates as well as take other precautions. Said Dr. Robin Whyatt of Columbia University:11

These chemicals are very widely used in very high volume and they are not generally listed on labels There are some simple steps families can take. Avoid using plastic containers and as much as you can store your food in glass jars in the fridge Never microwave in plastic. It is also worth considering cutting back on using any scented products cosmetics, perfumes, air fresheners and detergents.

Inhaling toxins in your indoor air that outgas from household items like carpeting, as well as picking them up via household dust, are among the primary sources of toxin exposure. The most effective way to improve your indoor air quality is to control or eliminate as many sources of pollution as you can first, before using any type of air purifier. This includes accounting for molds, tobacco smoke, VOCs from paints, aerosol sprays, and household cleaners, pesticides, phthalates from vinyl flooring and personal care products, pollutants from pressure-treated wood products, radon gas, and more (see tips below).

The next step to take is freeopen some windows. Of course, this can only take you so far, but it's an important and simple step. Next, since it is impossible to eliminate ALL air contaminants, one of the best things you can do is incorporate a high-quality air purifier. At present, and after much careful review and study, I believe air purifiers using Photo Catalytic Oxidation (PCO) seem to be the best technology available. Aside from using an air purification system, there are a number of other steps you can take to take charge of your air quality and greatly reduce the amount of air pollutants generated in your home:

Additionally, you may want to consider an active form of air purification, rather than passive air filtration. I personally use two of our Pure & Clear air purifiers to constantly purify the air in my home, There is not a filter in these units; they merely circulate particles that decimate VOCs and mold spores that happen to be in the air. For even more information, seeThe Inside Story: A Guide to Indoor Air Qualityissued by the US Consumer Product Safety Commission.

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New Carpet Installation Presents Complex Health Issues

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