WACO, Texas, Aug. 29, 2017 /PRNewswire/ -- Much of the U.S. has been experiencing record heat this summer and with air conditioning accounting for almost half of a home's energy use, homeowners have been lowering their thermostats and subsequently raising their utility bills. In an effort to educate consumers and fuel substantial savings, Aire Serv, a Neighborly company that provides installation, maintenance and repair of heating, ventilation, air conditioning and indoor air quality systems, is sharing little-known tips to help slash electric bills without sacrificing comfort in the home.

"There are many misconceptions when it comes to energy usage in the home," said Steve Truett, president of Aire Serv. "Most homeowners don't realize that air conditioning accounts for a significant part of a home's electric bill, so if you're not using your system efficiently, you're bound to see an increase in your monthly spending. That's why Aire Serv stresses the importance of routine maintenance by professionals to extend the shelf life of your unit and ensure it's working both efficiently and effectively."

When thinking about ways to save, Aire Serv recommends keeping an eye on energy-sucking culprits that are racking up homeowners' utility bills without them knowing, such as dirty air filters. Other considerations to keep in mind when managing your HVAC unit:

Aire Servoffers premium residential and commercial services for every type of heating and cooling system.Home services, which include heating and air conditioner repair, replacement and maintenance, are charged by the job and not by the hour. In addition, Aire Serv conveniently offers 24-hour emergency heating and air conditioning repair and service to its residential and commercial customers. For more information about Aire Serv and its HVAC services, please visitAireServ.com.

About Aire Serv:Aire Serv, a Neighborly company, is a global franchise organization providing installation, maintenance and repair of heating, ventilation, air conditioning and indoor air quality systems. Recognized by Entrepreneur magazineamong its"Franchise 500", Aire Serv franchisees provide services to both residential and commercial customers from more than 200 locations worldwide. Established by Dwyer Group in 1992, Aire Serv is part of Neighborly, a community of home service experts, leveraging Dwyer Group's nearly 2,500 professional home service experts across 13 brands in the U.S. and Canada with a unique direct service function that provides consumers assistance with nearly all aspects of their home care needs. Neighborly brands include: Aire Serv, Five Star Painting, Glass Doctor, Portland Glass, Molly Maid, Mr. Appliance, Mr. Electric, Mr. Handyman, Mr. Rooter, Protect Painters, Rainbow International, Window Genie and The Grounds Guys. Additional information about Neighborly can be found at http://www.GetNeighborly.com. For more information about Aire Serv, visit http://www.aireserv.com and to learn about franchising opportunities with all Dwyer Group's Neighborly companies, visit http://www.leadingtheserviceindustry.com.

CONTACT:

Ellie Mannix

Fish Consulting

954-893-9150

class="prnews_a" rel="nofollow">emannix@fish-consulting.com

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Aire Serv Shares Tips to Slash Utility Bills Amid Record Heat in the US - Markets Insider

The city of Westlake, Floridas newest municipality, will officially be recognized by the U.S. Postal Service effective Sept. 15. The city was incorporated as Palm Beach Countys 39th municipality just over a year ago but was not immediately recognized as a permitted designation by the Postal Service.

The city of Westlake will share the 33470 ZIP code with Loxahatchee, according to the Postal Service.

This designation is an important step for the city of Westlake and its future residents, who will truly be creating a brand-new city from the ground up, said Mike Belmont, president of Minto Communities USA. Minto is developing the 3,800-acre master-planned community of Westlake within the city limits.

Located in central Palm Beach County, Westlake will blend residential, commercial, recreational and natural elements to create a vibrant new city. The Westlake Town Center will be a comprehensive retail district with an eclectic blend of retailers, wide sidewalks and public spaces that host a lively calendar of programming and events. The community will feature an Aquatics Center with a lagoon-style pool, lazy river, tower slide and splash pad, plus an adult pool with swim lanes and shade cabanas. Expansive recreational lawns will offer spaces for picnics, lawn games and events. Additional amenities include an adventure playground, a dog park, sports courts and multi-purpose building.

Minto is currently constructing six model homes, which are expected to be completed this fall to coincide with the opening of the Westlake sales center. The sales center will feature interactive displays, a full interior design center, caf and childrens playroom.

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City of Westlake to be officially recognized by US Postal Service - Palm Beach Post

Feeling artsy?(Or, you know, just in need of a good Insta?) Youre in luck. Baton Rouge has several opportunities for you to channel your creative side this week.

The Journey Lab, a self-proclaimed sanctuary for artists and workshop space, will be hosting a candle making class tonight, Aug. 31, at 6 p.m. Participants will make their own 8-ounce, soy-based candle, choosing from more than 60 fragrances.

The first candle will be made in a lidded container provided by The Journey Lab, with additional containers available, but participants are also encouraged to bring along their own containers for a more unique shape. Participants will also be guided through the process of making lavender eucalyptus bath salts.

The class will be led by Mary Helen Borck, who can be reached at [emailprotected]. The cost of the class is $55. Journey Lab is at731 Franklin St.

Not interested in crafts but still looking to get creative? Feng Shui could provide an outlet for you. Beginning next Tuesday, Sept. 5, 6:30-8:30 p.m., The Red Shoes will be hosting an introduction to Feng Shui class.

Feng Shui is the ancient Chinese art of placement as it relates to harmony, prosperity and balance in our environment. Through this class, you could discover how to correct problems in a variety of situations, including love, career and interior design.

The class, facilitated by Feng Shui Master Denise DuBos, will be held each Tuesday until Sept. 19. Cost of registration is $25 per class or $60 for three classes. Register in advance, either by phone at 338-1170 or at theredshoes.org. The Red Shoes is at2303 Government St.

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Make candles and bath salts or try Feng Shui at events this week - 225 Baton Rouge

A Cody couples two-story addition built to accommodate a growing family has some neighbors fearing loss of privacy and property value.

Although city building officials had originally approved the addition on Carter Avenue near Dorse Miller Park, they had not approved designing the second story as a separate housing unit.

To proceed with construction of the upstairs apartment for a relative, James Morgan applied for a conditional use permit from the city planning and zoning board, notified neighbors by letter and advertised a public hearing.

Aside from privacy- and property-value concerns, opponents were upset the city had allowed the towering addition despite homeowner association rules limiting houses to 1-1/2 stories in the subdivision. They learned at the public hearing that since the HOA was no longer active, they would have to fight the addition through the courts.

After reviewing options with legal counsel and city community development staff, P&Z members granted the conditional use permit on a 4-1 vote.

Of 17 letters sent, neighbors from seven addresses responded. Five offered no objection. The two couples who objected in writing live across the alley. They spoke at the public hearing, saying at first they were glad to see the Morgans expand their one-bathroom house.

Those benevolent feelings quickly evaporated when they saw the second story go up with a separate living space accessible only from an outside stairway. They worried it would be used as a rental with rotating strangers looking down at children playing in backyards below.

Long-time resident Linda Hopkin said when she walks outside and looks up at great big windows across the alley, it feels as if shes in prison. She said people in their neighborhood get along and they visit with each other about their plans before starting a building project. That the Morgans hadnt come over to visit about the project in advance was hurtful.

Vince Hopkin didnt like the fact construction had started before notice of the accessory unit was sent. The letter arrived just a few days after people realized there was a second story, and so they didnt have much chance to provide input, he said.

He worried the infringement would lower his property value.

Greg and Sandra Kincheloe, who have lived on Beartooth Drive to the north since 1969, shared the Hopkins disappointment.

I dont know if theres a law against someone looking into your backyard, Greg said. But I dont like it.

Sandra said when theyd built an addition in 79, they were told because of subdivision covenants, no structure could go higher than 1-1/2 stories, and only one family was allowed per dwelling. Now, other homeowners are allowed to build based on a different set of rules.

Morgan spoke to clear the air, saying prior to the addition, he was unaware of previous discussions in the neighborhood or about zoning issues. The decision to build was made quickly after learning his mother-in-law intended to move in to help with child care.

I apologize for any ill intent, he said. We meant no harm in this.

Highland Manor Subdivision covenants were first recorded with the Park County clerk in 1956.

HOAs typically have a set of rules to keep consistency in a neighborhood. If adhered to, there are fewer surprises. They might keep excessive vehicles off the street, dictate some basic landscaping expectations or prohibit accumulated junk.

Apparently the Highland Manor HOA is no longer active, and several other two-story additions already exist.

That set a legal precedent, said Scott Kolpitcke, city attorney. When one covenant violation is allowed to go unenforced, it leads to the potential for litigation.

Todd Stowell, city planner, said the city is not party to those covenants and doesnt have authority over them.

From a legal perspective, we dont consider covenants, period, he said, while admitting the statement may seem harsh. And whether the subdivisions HOA is still valid could be questionable, he continued.

I wish we could enforce covenants, Steve Miller, P&Z president, said. But, unfortunately, theres no way we can.

The public hearing was solely for the accessory dwelling unit application in the R-1 district. Board members were to decide whether to issue a conditional use permit based on six or seven criteria, with compatibility with other uses in the area a main consideration.

As an ADU, the Morgans addition met most requirements. It did not exceed the allowed number of bedrooms, parking was sufficient, the double lot was large enough, etc.

Addressing privacy, Stowell said from photos, You can tell the [neighboring] property is definitely impacted.

As a potential solution, he suggested Morgan attach a fixed exterior shutter with slats that let light in and allow a person to look up yet block vision looking down. As a longer-term fix, they could plant evergreen trees. Frosted windows were another option.

Our thought is, if theres anything reasonable, they should provide it, Stowell said.

If the P&Z had not approved the permit, the area could still be used. But the Morgans wouldve needed to change the floor plan to remove either the kitchen, bathroom or living room.

What becomes of the addition if, at some time, your mother-in-law moves out? Miller asked, voicing a concern others had expressed about the apartments potential as a rental unit.

Morgan said his mother-in-law plans to stay with the family long-term.

As long as Im in the house, I wouldnt put someone in the house whos a danger to my family or the neighbors, he said. So no one should worry about that. Long-term, its in Gods hands. Theres no way to know.

Miller said hed feel a lot more comfortable if the second story were accessible from the existing house.

If we deny it, the buildings still going to be there, he said. Unfortunately, theres nothing we can do about that.

Buzzy Hassrick, board member, said it was unfortunate the addition hadnt been designed to fit better with the neighborhood, such as a split level add-on with a lower profile.

On the other hand, we cant say [he should] just lower it 10 feet, she said. Im conflicted.

While agreeing the board should approve the permit, she supported mitigation to address the neighbors privacy concerns.

So Im going to vote against it, she said.

Miller, Reese Graham, Heidi Rasmussen and Richard Jones voted to allow the apartment without mitigation. Kayl Mitchell abstained from discussion and the vote, citing personal and professional conflicts. Curt Dansie was absent.

Graham and Rasmussen encouraged Morgan and his neighbors to come up with a solution to privacy on their own.

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Two-story addition causes concerns - Cody Enterprise

Posted on: August 29, 2017; Updated on: August 29, 2017By Chris Horn, chorn@sc.edu, 803-777-3687

Aramark's new food services contract with USC means new dining options and nearly $80 million in improvements and new construction for dining facilities.

Thenew food service contract with Aramark promises to bring big changes to the campus dining scene, both in restaurant options and dining facilities.

One of the highlights of the 15-year contract is $79 million in dining facility improvements and new construction, including a new dining hall for the future Campus Village replacing Bates, Bates West and Cliff apartments, and renovations and a major addition to the Russell Houses dining areas.

The changes begin early in the spring 2018 semester when Coopers Corner at Thomas Cooper Library is converted into a full-service Starbucks. Another Starbucks will open at the same time in the ground level of the Humanities Classroom Building.

Two new food acquisition options begin this academic year: online ordering via a phone app later this semester and on-campus food delivery next semester for students, faculty and staff. The latter service will be a student-managed program and will contribute toward Aramarks goal of hiring 150 student workers this year and double that number in 2018-19.

Next summer, the first-floor Grand Marketplace in the Russell House will be remade, with a full-service Chick-fil-A to replace the smaller version of that restaurant currently on the second floor. Aramark will also open Congaree Smokehouse, a barbecue eatery, and Olilo, a Mediterranean-inspired restaurant from Iron Chef Cat Cora. Other possible additions include Au Bon Pain, a fast-casual bakery and caf, and an Asian or pan-Asian franchise.

The summer of 2019 will see a nearly 23,000-square-foot addition to the second floor of the east side of the Russell House. The expansion will increase the size of the ballroom, provide more space to the University Bookstore and create a new all-access dining facility on the second floor.

In 2020, an all-access dining meal plan will replace current meal plans for freshmen, and several dining facilities across campus will become all-access sites.

With all-access dining you can come and go whenever you want and eat as much or as little as youd like, says Clete Myers, resident district manager for Aramark and a 1990 HRSM graduate of the university. All-access will take away a lot of the restrictions on meal plans and will cater especially to on-campus students.

Also looking ahead to 2020, the first phase of Campus Village is scheduled for completion, bringing with it new residence halls and a new dining facility and other retail space for the south campus.

Aramark is committed to using as much S.C.-grown produce as possible, particularly in the Honors Residence Hall dining hall. In conjunction with Green Quad, Aramark plans to start a hydroponic freight farm that will grow lettuces and greens on campus.

Healthy food options and improvements to campus dining facilities are only part of Aramarks commitment, says Faren Alston, Aramarks on-campus marketing manager.

The service we provide is more than just serving someone food, Alston says. Our employees see students multiple times every day we might have more contact with them than anyone else on campus. We see them and talk to them, and we hope were adding to the positive experience of living on campus.

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Topics: Students, Campus Construction

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Bon apptit! - @UofSC

Adam Smith Times-News @adam_smithTN

DURHAM Duke filled up the bingo card in a hurry Saturday night.

The Blue Devils didnt dawdle, producing a bunch of points in a number of ways while overwhelming North Carolina Central 60-7 in a football season opener at Wallace Wade Stadium.

By midway through the second quarter, with the outcome decided and the margin ballooning, Duke had scored on touchdown runs, a touchdown pass, a field goal, an interception return for touchdown and a safety.

We wanted to show everybody, even all the ACC teams, what weve got, Duke running back Brittain Brown said. We came out strong. We just wanted to break their back, break their soul, just get this thing going.

The Blue Devils piled up 524 total yards on offense, with quarterback Daniel Jones passing for 213 yards and two touchdowns and Brown, a redshirt freshman, rushing for 120 yards and a score in his college debut.

Duke entered averaging more than 50 points per game against N.C. Central and this matchup of Durham schools, in whats known as the Bull City Gridiron Classic, quickly became another Duke blowout of the Eagles, the three-time reigning Mid-Eastern Athletic Conference champions on the Football Championship Subdivision level.

Theres an excitement and an energy about us, Jones said. I think we have all the pieces, all the talent. There are definitely improvements to be made and progress to be made, but overall I think were in a good spot and weve got what we need.

After Shaun Wilson capped Dukes first possession of the season by plowing into the end zone from 1 yard out, cornerback Byron Fields Jr. picked off Eagles quarterback Micah Zanders and returned the interception 28 yards for a touchdown.

Just like that, just more than 3 minutes into the night, Duke led 14-0.

Browns 38-yard touchdown run he used some nice moves in the secondary to lose two N.C. Central defensive backs made it 21-0. And the rout effectively was on at that juncture, with more than five minutes remaining in the first quarter.

On the touchdown, I was kind of just weaving around defenders, Brown said. A lot of space out there to run in the open field.

By halftime, Duke led 47-7 and had given Quentin Harris, who backs up Jones, a series of his own at quarterback. Harris responded by directing a 10-play drive that he capped with a 3-yard scoring run.

That meant Duke had delivered six touchdowns on its seven possessions in the first half.

Jones, who finished last year on a streak of 173 passes without an interception, had a clean start to this season. He went 19-for-25 while connecting with Aaron Young and Johnathan Lloyd for scores.

The 54-yard touchdown bomb over the top to Young essentially was an easy pitch and catch, because Young was running so open down the field. Youngs five catches for 89 yards topped Dukes receivers, 13 of whom had at least one reception.

Moments later, with the Blue Devils now ahead 40-0, a shot of Duke basketball star Grayson Allen grinning his approval appeared on the massive videoboard that towers over one end zone here.

Lloyd, the former Southern Alamance High School standout, zipped in from 24 yards out on a swing pass in the third quarter, increasing Dukes lead to 53-7.

N.C. Centrals touchdown came on Isaiah Tottens 81-yard breakaway in the second quarter. Otherwise, the Eagles managed only three plays that gain 10 yards or more.

We learned a lot from this game, N.C. Central coach Jerry Mack said. We learned exactly what not to do and what to do. Some guys got exposed. We found out a lot about the character of our football team.

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Duke decks NC Central with variety - Shelby Star

Home Plumbing Water Heater How to Install a Hot Water Heater

When your water heater begins to leak, you have to install a new one fast.

We're replacing a natural gas water heater in our demonstration. The steps for replacing a propane water heater are exactly the same, and those for an electric water heater are similar.

In any case, play it safe. Call your local department of inspections and ask if you need a permit. And make sure a plumbing or electrical inspector checks your work.

Your water heater is dead when the tank leaks. The telltale sign that your water heater needs replacing is a slow drip underneath, usually showing up as a trail of rusty water. This means that the steel tank has rusted through and can't be fixed. Other symptoms, such as insufficient or no hot water, usually signal other problems that you can fix.

If you spot a drip, plan to replace the water heater right away. Don't wait until the leak gets bad. Most residential water heaters cost $150 to $400 for either gas or electric, plus $200 to $450 if you have a plumber install it. More expensive gas water heaters with special venting systems also are available. But they're more difficult to install, and we won't deal with them here.

New water heaters come with installation instructions and lots of warnings to make sure you handle the gas, electrical and other connections safely. In this article, we'll supplement those basics with techniques and real world advice from several professional plumbers.

But take heed: You'll be working with natural gas, propane or electricity, all of which are hazardous. If you don't feel confident, call in a pro to take care of the tough parts. And have your work inspected when it's done.

Plumbing codes vary by region. Describe your planned installation to your local plumbing inspector, including the types of materials you intend to use for your new connections. Better to get guidance first so you don't have to change things later!

To print out this image, see the Additional Info at the end of this article.

Many homes have galvanized steel or plastic (CPVC) water supply pipes. Galvanized steel pipes are difficult to replace. We recommend that you remove the pipes back to the nearest tee, screw on a plastic-lined galvanized nipple and complete the connections with copper as shown in our photo series.

Because of potential heat buildup, keep plastic pipe at least 6 in. away from the vent and tank. Make a transition from plastic to copper with a special coupling that's available wherever CPVC is sold.

Flexible copper connectors are easier to install than solid copper, especially when the existing pipes and the tank inlets don't line up. But not all local codes allow them. If yours does, take special care not to pinch or kink them. You could get a leak.

Turn off the gas to the water heater by turning the nearby shutoff valve a quarter turn. When off, the handle should be at a right angle to the pipe. Shut off the main water supply as well and drain the lines by opening a faucet on the lowest floor.

Attach a garden hose to the drain valve and drain the water left in the tank. Caution: The water will be scalding hot! Disconnect the gas line at the nearby union with a pair of wrenches and unscrew the pipe from the gas control valve with a pipe wrench.

Unscrew the vent pipe from the vent hood and move it to the side. Then cut the hot and cold water lines with a tube cutter. (Unscrew unions for galvanized pipe or the nuts on flexible connectors if you have them.) Slide the old water heater out of the way.

Wrap the threads of the new temperature and pressure relief valve with Teflon tape (three turns). Screw it tightly into the tank with a pipe wrench. Attach a copper discharge pipe (see Fig. A for routing details).

Solder new copper adapters to 6-in. lengths of 3/4-in. copper and screw the assemblies into the hot water outlet and cold water inlet ports in the top of the tank. Add short, plastic lined nipples to shield against galvanic corrosion, especially if you have hard water or if they're required by local codes.

Slide the new water heater into place, recut or extend the old tubing to meet the new, and solder the tubing together using copper slip couplings. If the tubing doesn't line up, offset the lines as needed with pairs of 45-degree elbows.

Reconnect the vent. Shove it tightly over the draft hood and anchor it with three 3/8-in. No. 6 sheet metal screws. Predrill the holes. The vent should rise at least 12 in. vertically before turning at the first elbow.

Reconnect the gas line. Coat the threaded ends with pipe joint compound and screw the first nipple into the gas valve. Use two pipe wrenches to avoid stressing the valve. Reassemble the remaining nipples, finishing up with the union (Photo 2). Then follow these four steps to fill the tank: (1) Close the drain valve; (2) turn the water back on at the main shutoff and open the cold water valve to the water heater (leave it open); (3) turn on a nearby hot water faucet until water comes out; and (4) inspect all the joints and fittings for water leaks.

Most water heaters rely on a natural draft to draw combustion fumes up the flue. If the draft doesn't work, those fumes, possibly containing deadly carbon monoxide, will spill out into your home. After completing your installation, check the draft.

Close all exterior doors and windows and turn on your kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans. Then open a nearby hot water faucet until you hear the gas burner in the water heater ignite. After a minute, move a smoking match around the edge of the draft hood (Photo 7) on top of the heater. The smoke should be drawn up the vent pipe. If the smoke doesn't draw, the fumes from the burner aren't venting. Turn off the gas to the water heater and call a licensed plumber to correct the problem.

Turn on the gas and check connections for leaks by brushing a 50-50 mixture of dishwashing liquid and water over the joints. If the mixture bubbles, you have a leak. Tighten or reconnect joints that leak. Wipe the joints dry when finished. Call the plumbing inspector to check over your work.

Follow the how-to advice that accompanies the photos to make sure the connections are tight.

Light the pilot light according to the manufacturer's directions. (For electric water heaters, turn the power on at the main panel after the electrical inspector checks your work.) Finally, set the temperature to 120 degrees F., following the installation instructions.

Light the pilot light in the new water heater and adjust the temperature setting.

First turn off the power to the water heater at your main electrical panel. Then follow the same draining procedures as for a gas water heater.

When the water heater is drained, disconnect the electrical wires from the screw terminals under the access panel, which is usually located near the top. (If you don't have electrical experience, hire an electrician to handle all the electrical wiring.)

Follow the manufacturer's instructions for wiring the new water heater. If the new water heater is shorter and the old wires won't reach, surface-mount a 4-in. x 4-in. x 1-1/2 in. metal electrical box on the wall or ceiling nearby, run the old wires to the box, and then run a new section of armored cable or electrical conduit to the water heater. Check the instructions and make sure the rating of the old fuse or circuit breaker is high enough to handle the new water heater. In addition, the circuit should have a shutoff switch within sight of the water heater.

Call your local electrical inspector before you begin the job. You'll probably need a permit. Then, when you're finished, have the electrical inspector check your work.

CAUTION: Aluminum wiring requires special handling. If you have aluminum wiring, call in a licensed pro who's certified to work with it. This wiring is dull gray, not the dull orange that's characteristic of copper.

Jeff Gorton, an editor at The Family Handyman, will show you how to remove and dispose of a water heater in our video tutorial. He will also show you the easy way to carry a water heater out of your home, even if you are working alone.

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you startyoull save time and frustration.

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Heres a list.

More:
How to Install a Hot Water Heater - The Family Handyman

RON HAZELTON:You know, folks are always saying to me, Ron, everything always goes so smoothly on the show, it's never like that when I take on a home improvement project. Well, I can tell you, as a homeowner and a do it yourself guy, I'm not immune from the kind of surprises that are a part of just about any home improvement project.

As an example, I want to tell you about something that happened to me the other day. It all began when I came into the kitchen and turned on this faucet. Instead of a nice, smooth, bubbly stream of water, I got a lot of spitting and sputtering. I've seen this before. It almost always means debris is clogging the faucet aerator. So I unscrewed the device, disassembled it and sure enough, I found small white bits of material which I carefully picked out.

Then I washed the aerator thoroughly and replaced it. But a few days later, the sputtering was back. Then I went to take a shower up here in the master bathroom, but there was practically nothing coming out. So I unscrewed the shower head, took a look inside and found more of that same debris that had clogged my kitchen faucet.

Then my washing machine stopped working. It wasn't getting any water. I unscrewed the hose and, sure enough, you guessed it. Well, it seemed like it was time for a little research. I got on my computer and did some poking around. So my online research has led me to believe that the culprit in all this might be right there, in the form of something called sediment.

Now sediment can collect in a water heater from dirt, sand or minerals that are suspended in the water supply. Over time, these deposits can build up quite an accumulation on the bottom of the tank, cutting down on burner efficiency.

Incoming water can stir up the sediment and send it to faucets, aerators, shower heads, dishwashers, clothes washing machines, and any other water-using appliance in the house.

The online advice I'd gotten said I should flush my water heater and instructed me to turn my gas valve to the pilot position, connect a hose to the spigot at the bottom of my water heater, shut off the incoming cold water, open a hot water faucet somewhere in the house, and then twist open the spigot on the water heater.

Sure enough, out came the water, and with it, quite a bit of what looked like sand and more of those curious white chips that I'd found clogging up my plumbing fixtures. It looked almost like fragments of plastic. I was baffled. So it was back online for some more research.

To my surprise and amazement, I discovered that back in the mid '90s, some water heater manufacturers had unknowingly installed defective plastic tubes called dip tubes in thousands of water heaters. Over time, these tubes could disintegrate. It appeared that my unit was one of those affected. So I decided to take out my dip tube, inspect it and replace it if necessary.

Well, this is not good news. This is the nipple that I took out of the top of the water heater. It's supposed to have a plastic tube attached to it like this, called a dip tube. Well, in my case, that tube has actually broken off and dropped into the tank. Now if you could see inside the tank, you'd find the dip tube lying there on the bottom. And if you look more closely, you'd see those tiny fragments of plastic scattered about just waiting to be carried through my pipes and into my plumbing fixtures.

I can't think of any way I'm gonna get that out of there and as long as it's inside, it's gonna continue to deteriorate and contaminate my plumbing system. So I think I'm gonna have to replace the water heater.

Well, what started out as a sputtery water faucet has, so far, led to the need for a new water heater. Bernard at my local home improvement center listens to my story and then directs me to something called a tankless water heater.

So you're saying that this water heater can produce as much water as these, it's so much smaller.

Bernard explains that a conventional water heater works by keeping a tank full of water continually hot and ready for use. Tankless versions, on the other hand, only heat water on demand. When hot water is turned on anywhere in the house, the unit starts and water is brought up to temperature instantaneously as it continuously flows through the internal heat exchanger.

Well, I'm sold. So I load my tankless water heater onto a cart and into my truck. Now, being the do-it-yourself type, I entertained thoughts of installing it myself and perhaps I could have, but in the end, I opt for professional help.

The first thing plumber Mike Iovanna does is install a T and valve in my existing gas line. Then he and his partner Jim Morrissette begin running the new supply line. This is called corrugated stainless steel tubing and in many communities, including mine, it can be used in place of conventional black iron for gas lines.

Now Mike and Jim move on to the water lines. First they tie in the new lines to the existing ones, then get ready to run the copper pipes the last few feet to the new water heater. These brackets, called bell hangers, will hold the pipes securely in place and prevent them from coming into contact with the walls.

This will make it possible to apply insulation later and prevent chafing damage to the pipe itself. Before copper can be soldered, the pipes and connectors have to be cleaned to remove oxidation. Then soldering flux is applied. This paste enables the solder to flow more evenly and prevents the copper from oxidizing again when it's heated. Next, the pipe and connectors are slipped together. The copper is then heated with a torch. When it reaches the correct temperature, the tip of the solder is touched to the metal.

It melts instantly and is drawn into the joint by capillary action. Now, notice how Mike has bent the solder into an L-shape, so he can easily reach all the way around the pipe. When we come back, we'll put in the new tankless water heater and then enter the world of endless hot water.[MUSIC]

I built this platform from two-by-fours and plywood so that I can mount the heater about four inches out from the wall. This will allow the vent to clear the floor joists as it passes to the outside.

After drilling holes using a carbide tipped bit, I drive in these tapcon screws. They're masonry anchors that actually cut threads into concrete. Once I've secured the platform cover in place, a single screw will allow me to hang the water heater on the front.

Then I can drive in additional screws which secure the mounting brackets. Now the plumbers can come back to make the final hookups. First, Mike connects the gas shutoff valve and sediment trap -- that's the short section of pipe running downward, then attaches the corrugated stainless steel supply line.

Jim now makes the last few connections between the water shutoff valves and the heater -- then does a final bit of soldering. With the gas turned on and the air bled out of the line, a sniffer is used to make certain there are no leaks.

This is heat resistant silicone sealant that I'm applying to the heater vent. Next, I slip on a connector -- and secure it to the vent with a hose clamp. Then I put on the first section of stainless steel vent pipe, pull the retaining ring down into place, and bend over the tabs that lock the ring in position.

Next, I set a 90 degree elbow in place. Then using a long shaft quarter-inch bit, bore through the rim joist to the outside at a point that will be the center of the vent hole. Outside, I use the metal wall thimble as a template, tracing the outline onto the shingles.

Using a spade bit, I bore a one-inch hold near the edge of what will be the opening. Then I grab a reciprocating saw, insert the blade into the hole, and begin cutting.[SAWING SOUNDS]Ready. Now I need to remove a few shingles around the edge of the opening so that the flange on the wall thimble can set directly against the plywood sheathing underneath. The purpose of the thimble is to prevent the vent pipe from having any direct contact with wood as it passes through the wall.

Silicone caulk, applied to the outer flange, will insure a water tight seal on the outside. Next, I drill pilot holes through the stainless steel flange -- then drive in screws that pull it into tight contact with the sheathing. Finally, I seal the screw heads and the building paper with more silicone.

From the basement side, I slip the interior flange into place, attach another straight section -- slide the retaining ring into position, and bend over the tabs to lock it all together. Now, from the outside, I slide through a section of vent with an elbow attached and connect it to the vent inside.

Finally, I slip on one last vertical section of pipe on the outside with two 90-degree elbows on the end that form a U to prevent rain water from entering. One last connection, and the vent is finished. The final job outside is to replace the shingles I removed earlier. All that's left now is to plug in the power for the thermostat and on board microprocessor, insulate the hot water pipe coming from the heater, turn on the gas and fire it up.

Now, one of the obvious benefits of this system is that I've replaced a rather massive tank in my basement with a relatively compact unit that's up out of the way on the wall. But the real payoff is that I will now have enough hot water to wash the dishes, give the kids a bath and take a shower, all at the same time.

In addition to the main thermostat, I also have a bedroom unit that allows me to control the water temperature remotely, if I choose. So that's my story of how a simple sputtering faucet led to a discovery about sediment and defective dip tubes, which required me to replace my old water heater with new technology, which ended up providing us with unlimited hot water. Yeah, there's no question about it, home improvement can be a journey and an adventure.

Originally posted here:
How to Install a Tankless Water Heater Ron Hazelton ...

Learn how to install SharkBite Flexible Water Heater Connectors to connect hot and cold water supply lines to a water heater.

Transcript:Welcome to SharkBite Training Videos. My name is Craig and in this video I will show you how to use and install SharkBite Flexible Water Heater Connectors, which are used in residential and commercial applications to connect the hot and cold supply lines to the water heater.

These stainless steel braided connectors make fast work of water heater hot and cold supply line hook-up. The ability to rotate the SharkBite connector after it is pushed onto the pipe and the flexibility of the braided hose allow connections in tight spaces and without additional fittings. On gas heaters, ensure the hose remains clear of the flu.

To install the water heater connector, simply tighten the threaded end of the flex hose onto the water heater then push the other end of the flex hose onto the pipe up to the depth mark. Remember to de-burr and mark copper pipe with the SharkBite Depth & De-burr Gauge.

SharkBite Flexible Water Heater Connectors are available in and 3/4, in various lengths. Lead-free compliant versions are also available.

SharkBite Flexible Water Heater Connectors also come with an integral SharkBite Ball Valve and couplings suitable for use on copper, CPVC and PEX.

Original post:
How to Install a Water Heater Using a SharkBite Connector

Home Plumbing Water Heater How to Install a Power-Vented Water Heater

Power vents simplify a gas hot water heater installation

Power-vented water heaters work the same as ordinary water heaters, but the exhaust gases are blown out with a small fan instead of rising upwards through metal pipes.

The hot exhaust gases from a natural-draft water heater rise through an open draft diverter and out through a metal duct.

Natural gas or propane hot water heaters are generally less expensive to operate than electric heaters, but installing a standard vent in a house without an existing chimney is expensive.

Its easier to run the vent if you install a power-vented type of natural gas (or propane) water heater. This type of venting system is different from what you see on most gas water heaters. Most have a natural-draft type of vent, where the hot waste gases rise through an open draft diverter and into metal pipes,which eventually lead to the outdoors. Running one of these vents is complicated and may be expensive. Its best left to a professional.

In contrast, a power-vented type relies on a fan to blow the exhaust gases out. Since this method doesnt rely on the natural buoyancy of hot air, the vent pipes dont have to go upward. They can go out horizontally, which usually makes them much easier to install. Further, the fan dilutes the exhaust with cooler air so you can run the vents with easy-to-assemble PVC pipe. Power venting is an especially good solution for more energy efficient, tightly built homes, where a good natural draft is difficult to establish.

However, you should be aware of several drawbacks:

If you decide to install one yourself, read the instructions carefully and make sure to follow all venting procedures. And call your local building department and ask if you need a plumbing permit to do the work.

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you startyoull save time and frustration.

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Heres a list.

Continued here:
How to Install a Power-Vented Water Heater | Family Handyman