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    Grassing.com – How to Seed A Lawn|Grass Seeding Time … - October 23, 2016 by Mr HomeBuilder

    Seedland has provided this informational site - Grassing.com -- to help you choose, plant and grow your own beautiful lawn grass from seeds. Read through the general grass seed information on the pages linked in the menu above to help you choose a grass seed species, determine when to plant your grass seed, prepare for your grassing project, as well as discover the various methods used to plant grass seed. To further assist you in determining the best grass seed for your needs, we have a state by state lawn grass guide at http://www.lawngrass.com. Our http://www.lawngrasses.com website is a step by step guide to help you choose the correct grass seed for your area based on climate. Then visit your specific lawn grass species page listed in our menus on the right under "Lawn Grass Informational Sites".

    Here you can learn the basics of seeding lawns or rather planting grass seed. If you are wanting to sod a lawn, visit our sodding.com web site for great sodding turf grass tips. For a complete selection of grass seeds or grass plugs visit our online store at Seedland.com.

    Helping make your lawn green and growing! -- Follow our step by step help on seeding your lawn:

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    Grassing.com - How to Seed A Lawn|Grass Seeding Time ...

    Lawn Seeding Service | Grass Seeding | Slice & Slit Seeding - June 15, 2016 by Mr HomeBuilder

    Early fall is the best time to seed grass throughout the northern part of the United States. SavaLawn, a leading provider of professional lawn care services, advises homeowners and property managers to take advantage of this opportunity to introduce new seed varieties to their lawn.

    There are several questions you may want to consider when you decide on a lawn seeding service. Your lawn care professional can assist in evaluating the current conditions on your property and make recommendations to create the best program.

    A lawn care professional can guide you through all of these variables and provide tips to help restore your existing lawn or establish a new lawn. Caring for your lawn with a professional maintenance program will keep your lawn healthy and attractive, adding continuous value to your property. Consider one of SavaLawns grass seeding services to help your lawn become the envy of the neighborhood. The professionals at SavaLawn, the lawn care division of SavATree, will perform a soil analysis, select the best seed for your landscape conditions and develop a comprehensive lawn care maintenance plan customized for your propertys needs. Optional natural lawn care programs are available to fit your preferences.

    Planting new varieties can help protect a lawn from drought, disease, pests, excessive traffic and shade, so as a result they need less water and pest control. SavALawn only uses the best rated varieties. Based on these reviews, we've created our own premium grass seed blends which mostly include Kentucky Bluegrass, Perennial Ryegrass and Tall Fescues.

    Lawn services, accurately timed and performed by professionals will be conducted with the use of specialized equipment designed to maximize performance. The slice seeding equipment used on your lawn slices through the thatch and plants new grass seed directly into the soil, eliminating the need to till or strip.

    Our lawn care professionals will assess your landscape and determine the specific needs of your lawn. You can be sure that the premium seed blend selected for your lawn will give you the best results for growing grass on your property.

    Call SavaLawn today for a complimentary consultation from our fully trained and certified professionals for seeding, new lawn care and lawn service. Click here to contact the office nearest you.

    SavATree offers a full range of tree, shrub and lawn services to the following locations:

    Connecticut - Fairfield, Hartford, Litchfield, Middlesex, New Haven, New London, Tolland, Windham; Illinois - Cook, DuPage, Kane, Kendall, Lake, McHenry County, Will; Maryland - Montgomery, Prince George's; New Hampshire - Rockingham; Massachusetts - Barnstable, Bristol, Essex, Middlesex, Norfolk, Plymouth, Rockingham, Suffolk, Worcester; Minnesota - St. Paul, White Bear Lake, Still Water, Woodbury, Mendota Heights, Sunfish Lake, Twin Cities; New Jersey - Bergen, Burlington, Essex, Hunterdon, Mercer, Middlesex, Monmouth, Morris, Ocean, Passaic, Somerset, Sussex, Union; New York - Bronx, Brooklyn, Columbia, Dutchess, Manhattan, Nassau, New York, Orange, Putnam, Queens, Rockland, Suffolk, Ulster, Westchester; Pennsylvania - Berks, Bucks, Chester, Delaware, Hampshire, Monroe, Montgomery, Northampton, Philadelphia, York; Virginia - Alexandria, Arlington, Fairfax, Loudoun, Prince William; Washington, D.C.; Wisconsin - St. Croix.

    Excerpt from:
    Lawn Seeding Service | Grass Seeding | Slice & Slit Seeding

    How to Seed a Fescue Grass Lawn or Pasture|Step-by-Step … - June 10, 2016 by Mr HomeBuilder

    EASYSEED: The 1-2-3 Steps For Planting A Fescue Lawn

    First: Decide if you will till the soil (So as to kill all the existing plants by plowing up your site!) or just plant within the existing grass. Also decide on the variety of Fescue grass to plant.

    I will NOT TILL my site - I want to overseed my existing lawn.

    You are not tilling the soil - and are planting seeds within the existing grass & weeds. This is called overseeding.

    OVERSEEDING - Note: Fescue does thin out over time, so overseeding helps to thicken the turf to achieve higher plant density.

    (1) Mow your lawn as close as possible and remove the excess clippings with an iron-rake that will also scratch your site soil, preparing a home for the seed.

    (2) Next if at all possible AERATE your lawn with a spike aerator. Planting without aerating does not allow good soil contact of your fescue seed. Aerate by traveling first North to South and then East to West (two trips across lawn). Then sow (broadcast) your Fescue seeds on the area to be planted generally in the early fall (Aug - Sept) for your best results. Fescue may also be seeded in the Spring (before May). Some people say they find overseeding both spring and fall works best for them.

    However you may also seed in late fall at the same time you use a cover crop such as ryegrass. The fescue seed will start germinating the following spring provided that snow and/or low temperature conditions have protected the seeds until spring germination. Timing is important depending of if you are in a more Northern cool-season area or in the transition zone.

    (3) After you have broadcast your seed, you should aerate a third time. This last time helps to provide soil coverage of your seeds.

    You may also Roll the area sowed with a hand roller so that the seed that you sowed, which fell into the soil scratches made with the rake, will become firmly packed with the soil. Fescue seed require firm soil contact for best germination. They also need a thin soil covering to germinate (1/4 inch ideal) - They are not likely to germinate when thrown out on top of the ground, unless a mulch covering or top soil is applied. Use the correct rate of seed for Fescue lawns.

    (4) Follow your normal water, fertilizing and mowing practices for the area you have planted on a regular basis. That's all! Eventually you will have an improved, more lush and thick Fescue grass lawn. Generally you should water daily after planting until germination occurs, then continue on a more normal cycle. - http://www.lawnirrigation.com

    Keep in mind that if overseeding a NEW lawn you need to create a good firm seedbed (soil) for your seedlings to grown in. Using a tiller is the best preparatory method. A second method is to use a rake to loosen the soil and make for better germination of your grass seed.

    Visit our http://www.lawngrasses.com for more about seeding rates and lawn choices for grasses. For pasture seeding the rate is normally lower. Keep in mind that the seeding rate is purposely higher for lawns so that the higher plant density needed for lush turf grass lawns is achieved.

    Planting a new lawn on correctly prepared and tilled soil.

    (1) Till the area to be planted so as to provide for a good seed bed (fine, loose soil) with little soil compaction. Early fall is the best time to start this activity for Fescue. The tilling can be done with either a garden roto-tiller or a tractor harrow/tiller (Or even a shovel if you have a good back!). Once the area is properly returned to soil, level the ground by raking or dragging something over the surface until it is smooth and level. Now is the time to remove hills and depressions so that you have a nice smooth lawn.

    (2) Plant the seeds. You can use a commercial turf grass planter, slit seeder, or sow the seeds by hand, or just as easy and much preferred, buy a lawn grass seeder. Once your seeds are sowed, rake or drag the seeded area, so that as many of the seeds as possible are lightly covered (1/4 inch is ideal covering). Be sure and use the correct rate for seeding Fescue grass. With new lawns a light covering of straw / hay can be spread over the planted area - This will help germination by reducing water evaporation and provide better conditions for germination.

    EROSION CONTROL - Used straw will also help some with erosion issues - Vertical blade aerators can help push some of the straw into the soil to provide better erosion control. OR use a seed mat to cover the planted area and staple the mat in place. Third option in erosion prone areas is to hire a local hydro seeder to spray / plant your erosion areas.

    (3) Water the area you have planted daily until germination occurs (unless rainfall occurs). Then water as needed. Apply fertilizer in intervals through the growing season, and practice a regular mowing schedule. Mowing the weeds that will grow in your new lawn area faster than the grass, allows the grass to compete better for scarce nutrients and sunlight. - Mow regular and at the correct height.

    Visit our http://www.lawngrasses.com for more about seeding rates and lawn choices for grasses. For pasture seeding the rate is normally lower, around 25 to 30 lbs of tall fescue seed per acre. Please follow the correct planting rates for your particular tall fescue seed and planting situation. Keep in mind that the seeding rate is purposely higher for lawns so that the higher plant density needed for lush turf grass lawns is achieved.

    A good final finish to planting a Fescue lawn is to roll your planted lawn area with a hand roller. You can rent these implements from rental stores in your area. This compacts the soil around the seed, creating a more favorable environment for Fescue seed germination. Fescue seed do not germinate well in fluffy soil, so this is an important step. The rolling also smoothes the soil providing for a more level uniform lawn.

    Bluegrass seed can be planted using the same basic seeding techniques as for Fescue. Also read about Ryegrass for cool season areas. Both of these grasses are often used in mixtures with Fescue to provide a more quality turf lawn in the Northern lawn areas.

    See the original post:
    How to Seed a Fescue Grass Lawn or Pasture|Step-by-Step ...

    Understanding green grass for cattle - April 6, 2015 by Mr HomeBuilder

    Even though the weather has improved significantly over the past couple of weeks, were still a few weeks away from getting heavily involved in crop seeding.

    What we are starting to see is grass greening so I thought that I would once again borrow information from Rachel Endecott our MSU Extension beef specialist in regards to green grass and cattle.

    We havent had much of a winter in most of Montana in 2015. With many signs and symptoms of an early spring, grass tetany is probably a timely topic. Grass tetany is a metabolic disease of cattle associated with grazing lush, green pasture. The condition is caused by low blood concentrations of magnesium, which is a required mineral for cattle. When pastures are growing rapidly in the spring, grass may not contain adequate amounts of magnesium to meet requirements.

    High potassium and crude protein concentrations found in rapidly growing forage complicate the grass tetany issue, because they can both interfere with the absorption of magnesium from the rumen. Magnesium requirements increase during lactation, so lactating cows have increased risk of developing grass tetany, and the risk increases as milk production increases.

    Low calcium intake combined with inadequate magnesium intake can result in more severe cases of grass tetany. Stress, storms or other conditions that result in cattle being off feed for 24 to 48 hours may decrease blood magnesium levels and cause grass tetany in several cows in a herd at one time.

    Signs of grass tetany could include finding dead cattle with evidence they may have struggled. Symptoms in live cattle could include convulsions, weakness, disorientation or aggressive behavior. Testing for grass tetany can be accomplished by collecting a blood sample in live animals, although care must be taken. Life-threatening convulsions can be caused by simply running the animals through the chute to collect a sample. Blood concentrations of magnesium return to normal after death, but magnesium concentrations of fluid from the eye or cerebrospinal fluid do not change near death and are good sources for testing for grass tetany in animals found dead.

    Prevention of grass tetany is the key to successfully managing this condition. Achieving increased calcium and magnesium consumption through supplementation is the main goal. Daily intake of magnesium is important, as grass tetany can occur within 48 hours when blood magnesium concentrations are too low. This can be accomplished in several ways, from salt-mineral mixes to molasses-based lick tubs, all of which are available in high-mag formulations at your local feed store. Supplying additional magnesium during the early growing season can help your operation avoid losses from grass tetany.

    Just how good is that lush green grass? Dont forget that lush pasture can be 70-80 percent water. This results in a dilution of the other nutrients in the forage and means that cows may not be able to meet their dry matter intake requirements with green grass alone. For example, a 1,400-pound cow consuming 2.5 percent of her body weight on a dry matter basis would need 35 pounds of dry feed per day. If the forage she were consuming contains 70 percent water, she would have to eat about 116 pounds of that fresh forage in order to get 35 pounds of dry matter. In other words, it might not be time to put up the hay processor or bale feeders just yet.

    As always, if you have questions, feel free to give me a call at 406-433-1206 or send an email to timothy.fine@montana.edu.

    Read the rest here:
    Understanding green grass for cattle

    Celebrate National Lawn Care Month with Espoma and Create Safer Lawns for People, Pets and the Planet - April 3, 2015 by Mr HomeBuilder

    (PRWEB) April 02, 2015

    Today kicks off National Lawn Care month. To celebrate, The Espoma Company is helping people make the switch to organic lawns and create Safe Paws environments through tips shared on the companys Facebook page.

    To show its commitment to chemical free lawns that are safe for pets, Espoma is hosting a #SafePawsChallenge. The company is donating $500 to the National Canine Cancer Foundation for every 5,000 new likes to its Facebook page during the month of April. The foundation funds research and raises awareness to fight cancers that affect dogs.

    Since canine cancer affects one out of every three dogs, Jeremy Brunner, vice president of Espoma, said the Canine Cancer Foundation was a natural fit for its Safe Paws initiative.

    People want green grass but they also want to feel confident their yard is safe for their kids and pets, too, says Brunner. The Canine Cancer Foundation is on a mission to help dogs live longer and healthier lives. Thats our goal with Safe Paws, too. Together our efforts promote awareness of healthy pets.

    To help people understand how easy it is to have a safe lawn, Espoma is sharing 30 tips in 30 days to help green up the 30 million acres of grass across the nation and drive awareness for canine cancer. Each tip will be posted daily on Facebook and Twitter using the hashtag #LawnCareMonth.

    These insightful tips provide information to create lush, chemical-free lawns in just 30 days. Topics range from soil testing and seeding to fertilizing and creating Safe Paw environments.

    Brunner says that feeding a lawn a healthy diet of natural ingredients offers benefits not just for your grass, but for you, your family, pets and the environment, too.

    The Benefits of an Organic Lawn An organic lawn is easier and, in the long run, less expensive than conventional lawn programs. In fact, organic lawns take less time and effort watering, fertilizing and mowing all summer.

    Getting a lush green lawn means making sure the soil is healthy, says Kathy Connolly, lawn care and lawn alternative expert for About.com.

    View post:
    Celebrate National Lawn Care Month with Espoma and Create Safer Lawns for People, Pets and the Planet

    Farm facts and furrows - April 1, 2015 by Mr HomeBuilder

    Frost seeding pastures

    Broadcasting legume seeds on frozen ground in March and early April is a low cost method to rejuvenate thinning pastures and increase quality and yield. Success is better where pasture has bare spots or was grazed closely the previous year. The freezing and thawing action of the soil provides critical seed to soil contact. Seeding is often by hand with a broadcaster or a spreader on an ATV or snowmobile. Legumes work best. Red clover is most successful but requires a repeat every two to three years or an opportunity to go to seed regularly. Trefoil is slower to establish but grows well in a variety of conditions, reseeds itself and doesnt cause bloat. Alfalfa has limited success because of auto-toxicity preventing new seedlings to grow near mature plants. Grass seed has proven to be more difficult to establish. Seed red clover at four to five lbs., white clover at two lbs. and trefoil at four to five lbs, apply phosphorous in late summer after seedlings have established. In addition, consider grazing lightly in the establishment year to reduce competition and avoid overgrazing.

    The most reliable time to seed forages is early spring, regardless of whether the crop is direct-seeded or seeded with a companion crop. With a spring seeding, moisture is usually adequate, and the plants are well established for winter survival. Seed as early as a seedbed can be prepared to increase the chances of adequate and frequent rainfall during the critical germination period. Seed to soil contact is particularly important. A loose, lumpy seedbed dries out quickly. Packing can help preserve moisture.

    Winter annual weeds can be a common problem, and herbicide application may be required. See OMAFRA Publication 75, Guide to Weed Control. Be cautious to avoid stunting growth due to herbicide effect. Recommended Guidelines for Companion Planting: Oat, barley or mixed grains are commonly used as companion crops. As a general rule, select the strongest-strawed, shortest and earliest grain variety in any species for the least competition. Reduce the spring grain seeding rate to 54-63 lbs/acre. Reduce the nitrogen fertilizer or manure rate to minimize the risk of a dense grain crop and lodging. Under most conditions, do not apply more than 15-20 lbs/acre of nitrogen on spring grains.

    See the article here:
    Farm facts and furrows

    Texas Crop Weather - March 30, 2015 by Mr HomeBuilder

    Forage scientist: Bermuda grass pasture stands can be very sustainable without nitrogen

    The purple-colored patches on the right side of the fence are signs of invasion of common Bermuda grass into Coastal Bermuda grass pasture under a high stocking rate, according to a Texas A&M AgriLife Research forage scientist. On the left side of the fence, the stocking rate was medium and shows much less invasion of common ecotypes. The pastures on both side of the fence received nitrogen fertilizer at usual rates during a 30-year study of the effects of stocking rates and nitrogen rates on pastures. (Texas A&M AgriLife Research photo by Dr. Monte Rouquette)

    Writer: Robert Burns, 903-834-6191, rd-burns@tamu.edu

    OVERTON In an East Texas study on sandy, low-fertility soils, Bermuda grass pastures that have not received nitrogen fertilizer since the fall of 1984 are still in production, according to Dr. Monte Rouquette, Texas A&M AgriLife Research forage physiologist, Overton.

    The study, which originally began in 1968 on pasture-research areas at the Texas A&M AgriLife Research and Extension Center at Overton, has been conducted by Rouquette since 1971.

    The original purpose of the study was to evaluate various forage varieties for production and persistence using cow/calf pairs with different stocking rates, he said.

    The original perception was that this might be a five-year study, Rouquette said. But after five years, reality set in, and I realized it was necessary to extend the time period.

    By 1984, rising fossil fuel costs, and along with them, much higher nitrogen fertilizer costs, became a game-changer for beef producers. Rouquette responded by redirecting the grazing study to evaluate the persistence of both common and Coastal Bermuda grass under two different fertility-management strategies: over-seeding with ryegrass and using commercial nitrogen fertilizer; and over-seeding with clover without applying nitrogen.

    I thought that this would be a good time to initiate a nutrient cycling experiment wherein pastures could be treated with nitrogen fertilization and over-seeded with ryegrass versus no nitrogen and over-seeded with clovers for nitrogen fixation, he said.

    Rouquette noted that in 1984, all the test pastures had adequate levels of potassium and phosphorus. As the study proceeded, all test pastures received potassium and phosphorus fertilizer yearly in the form of 0-60-60. Lime was applied as needed.

    Excerpt from:
    Texas Crop Weather

    Hawbaker: Don't rush lawn care - March 30, 2015 by Mr HomeBuilder

    All it takes is a day or two of warm weather and everyone gets a new outlook thinking that spring is finally here. Flowers emerge from the soil with tiny little crocus flowers, soon followed by larger daffodils and early tulips. However, we soon found out that colder weather, rain and maybe even snow can still happen just a few days later.

    I was fortunate to spend a week in a warmer climate where the temperatures were in the 70s and 80s all week. Flowers were blooming, pollen was falling from the trees and everything was green. One day at Disneyworld with beautiful flowers everywhere was enough to remind me how special springtime can be. But on the drive home, the landscape kept getting less and less green, more brown grass and no leaves on the trees. When I got home, it was encouraging to see some of the flower beds coming alive, at least. Guess we just have to be patient. Spring did come, according to the calendar, and soon it will be here with warmer temperatures.

    One of the first signs of spring in our lawns is when the grass starts to gradually turn green from being dormant all winter. That is when some of us get overly anxious and start applying spring applications of fertilizer and even spread crabgrass prevention products. In my opinion, it is best to wait until soil temperatures warm up before applying some of these products. Most crabgrass prevention products only last a couple of months in the soil, and if you apply them in early April, they may lose their effectiveness in early June. Crabgrass does not germinate until soil temperatures reach 60 to 65 degrees, so you should have plenty of time yet to apply it.

    The same reasoning applies to applying lawn fertilizer. In spring, lawns need time for root development to take place. Rushing in with heavy applications of nitrogen forces the plant to spend energy by growing leaf blades instead of strengthening the root system. I know lawns look better when they are green and lush, but that also means you have to start mowing earlier as well.

    If you have bare spots in your lawn, you can do some seeding anytime during April and May. My preference is to use a combination of good, disease resistant bluegrass varieties along with some perennial turf ryegrass varieties. Try to mix them into the top inch of soil and keep them moist for at least 3 weeks for germination to take place.

    Remember, do not apply crabgrass prevention products to areas where you also plan to reseed new bluegrass. Those products do not know the difference between bluegrass seed and crabgrass seed and neither of them will germinate.

    Take time this spring to walk around your lawn and see where you may need to reseed or where crabgrass was a problem last year. Weeds often appear in areas where bluegrass stands are sparse. Check out flowerbeds and gradually remove mulch as temperatures increase. Check shrubs for winter injury and replace, if necessary. There are plenty of jobs to do in your lawn and garden in early spring, so take advantage of those warm days when they arrive.

    Pick up sticks and debris from lawn and flowerbeds

    Reseed bare spots in lawn

    Watch robins hopping around your lawn

    Read more:
    Hawbaker: Don't rush lawn care

    Thirty-year study looks at Bermuda grass sustainability without fertilizer - March 28, 2015 by Mr HomeBuilder

    Forage scientist: Bermuda grass pasture stands can be very sustainable without nitrogen

    The purple-colored patches on the right side of the fence are signs of invasion of common Bermuda grass into Coastal Bermuda grass pasture under a high stocking rate, according to a Texas A&M AgriLife Research forage scientist. On the left side of the fence, the stocking rate was medium and shows much less invasion of common ecotypes. The pastures on both side of the fence received nitrogen fertilizer at usual rates during a 30-year study of the effects of stocking rates and nitrogen rates on pastures. (Texas A&M AgriLife Research photo by Dr. Monte Rouquette)

    Writer: Robert Burns, 903-834-6191, rd-burns@tamu.edu

    OVERTON In an East Texas study on sandy, low-fertility soils, Bermuda grass pastures that have not received nitrogen fertilizer since the fall of 1984 are still in production, according to Dr. Monte Rouquette, Texas A&M AgriLife Research forage physiologist, Overton.

    The study, which originally began in 1968 on pasture-research areas at the Texas A&M AgriLife Research and Extension Center at Overton, has been conducted by Rouquette since 1971.

    The original purpose of the study was to evaluate various forage varieties for production and persistence using cow/calf pairs with different stocking rates, he said.

    The original perception was that this might be a five-year study, Rouquette said. But after five years, reality set in, and I realized it was necessary to extend the time period.

    By 1984, rising fossil fuel costs, and along with them, much higher nitrogen fertilizer costs, became a game-changer for beef producers. Rouquette responded by redirecting the grazing study to evaluate the persistence of both common and Coastal Bermuda grass under two different fertility-management strategies: over-seeding with ryegrass and using commercial nitrogen fertilizer; and over-seeding with clover without applying nitrogen.

    I thought that this would be a good time to initiate a nutrient cycling experiment wherein pastures could be treated with nitrogen fertilization and over-seeded with ryegrass versus no nitrogen and over-seeded with clovers for nitrogen fixation, he said.

    Rouquette noted that in 1984, all the test pastures had adequate levels of potassium and phosphorus. As the study proceeded, all test pastures received potassium and phosphorus fertilizer yearly in the form of 0-60-60. Lime was applied as needed.

    View post:
    Thirty-year study looks at Bermuda grass sustainability without fertilizer

    Davao asks DA for cloud seeding - March 28, 2015 by Mr HomeBuilder

    DAVAO CITY (MindaNews / 27 March) The City Agriculturists Office has asked the Department of Agriculture for a cloud seeding over Davao City, following a month-long dry spell that could potentially damage at least 7,000 hectares of crops.

    In a letter to DA Regional Director Remelyn Recoter, City Agriculturist Rocelio T. Tabay attributed the dry spell to the El Nino phenomenon.

    According to Tabay, the dry spell threatens to affect 11,151 farmers working in 7,075.15 hectares of farmlands in Paquibato, Marilog, Toril, Tugbok and Baguio Districts.

    In a text message Thursday, Recoter said the agency would still have to validate the request.

    There are other factors that needed to be considered before a request for crop seeding could be accommodated, she said, such as cloud formation, wind direction and standing crops.

    The crop most affected by the dry spell are high value crops fruits, industrial crops, legumes, root crops and vegetables.

    Fruits were at the most risk, with 2,718.46 hectares and 4,687 farmers potentially affected.

    Corn, meanwhile, ranked second in terms of land area of crops being affected, at 2,449.55 hectares.

    The CAO estimates that around 2,501 farmers would be affected by the dry spell.

    Rainfed rice could also face a dry spell, with the department estimating 481.67 hectares being affected and 538 farmers.

    Follow this link:
    Davao asks DA for cloud seeding

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