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Enmoladas with fried eggs and queso fresco at Xochi
It all felt so normal, sitting out on the sun-dappled patio at Xochi on a recent Sunday afternoon.
Late-season roses popped from the lushly planted esplanades edging Discovery Green, silver-tipped grasses waving in the breeze. Children skipped alongside their parents on the way to the park. The musical chink of ice cubes rang from cocktail shakers wielded by some of the best-trained servers in the city.
The familiar staff faces were masked but recognizable, welcome crinkling at the corners of their eyes, nine months into Houstons complex dance with the pandemic and exactly a month since Xochi reopened after closing in March.
Guests were masked, too, as they entered and moved to their tables. So were the families passing by on the sidewalks; and the parking valets on the corner of McKinney and Crawford, near one of the entrances to the downtown Marriott hotel where Xochi lives, who took my car cheerfully, even when I explained to them I didnt have any cash for a tip.
Next time! said a guy who whizzed away on an electric scooter to marshal his forces.
1777 Walker, 713-400-3330.
Dinner & happy hour: 4-9 p.m. Wednesday-Thursday, 4-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Brunch: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday.
With only plastic in my pocket, I hadnt come prepared. I had already scoped out a Day of the Dead brunch that morning but passed it by when I saw the throng clustered outside. Too crowded for me, even outdoors. These days, I am seeking venues where outside tables are set apart; where theres good ventilation, lots of room and a staff well versed in safety procedures.
Xochi where I ended up on a sudden impulse filled that bill, and then some. The long, covered patio space running alongside McKinney Street had high, louvered ceilings, two rows of tables set reasonably apart, including a goodly number of two-tops for small parties. Ceiling fans churned the breezes let in on all sides.
It felt safe, unfriendly to COVID aerosols.
Not to mention that the setting was handsome, all dark woven chairs and tiny tabletop cacti and weatherized blinds rolled up to reveal the dazzling view. That verdant view alone could bring me here, so rare and welcome in a city where patio views often run to parking lots edged, if youre lucky, with a few plucky perimeter plantings.
I drank in all that sun and greenery, clutching my three, count them, three disposable paper menu sheets as if they were some rare and precious copy of the Dresden Codex. Ive always felt a bit overwhelmed by all the pages one gets at a Hugo Ortega establishment. Theres the regular menu, the happy hour menu, the seasonal special event menu, holiday menu on it goes, a cavalcade of choices.
Today, after nearly a year away from Xochi, I reveled in the options. Restaurants under chef Ortega and restaurateur Tracy Vaughts HTown group go long on service, allowing you to pick and choose a la carte from their various bills of fare, a civilized gesture. So I picked items from the brunch menu, that weekends Day of the Dead slate and their Houston Food Bank benefit $20 brunch menu.
I even ended up with some off-the-menu escamoles, those pearly, cushionly little orbs that are the Mexican answer to caviar. They arrived with lots of painterly drama: poised on black-corn tortillas, against glossy black plates and bursts of color: marigold, purslane, watermelon radish, bright green salsa albail.
Savoring the dish, after long months of home pantry cooking, I felt like a grownup again as if there were a world out there, full of mysteries, in which I might participate again some day.
A world full of miracles, too, like Carlos Chino Serranos latest cocktails. Its always difficult for me to pass up Serranos exquisitely balanced and beautiful Garden of the Pit, in which Mezcal and Oaxacan gin meet elderflower and lime, tinted in a dark flush of activated charcoal and tortilla ash, capped by snowy egg white and charcoal calligraphy.
But Serrano had an autumn surprise dreamed up, too: an as yet unnamed combo of Mezcal, cognac, Pimms, date pure and lime. Its warm ocher shade was echoed on the underside of its coupe glass by a dusting of turmeric with the Xochi name picked out in relief. I kept forgetting not to get my fingers in the turmeric, which was part of the entertainment for me, although I suspect this decorative detail may be in for retooling.
So captivating was this cocktail that the couple seated across from me inquired about it, and they ended up ordering one, too. It was one of the little social exchanges restaurants foster that made me feel like a part of the world again, too.
Ive been missing oysters in my seclusion, so I ordered a half-dozen of the wood-fired Ostiones al Lujo with a crackle of buttery bread crumbs and yellow mole lighting up the marine flavors, and a bed of magenta-tinted salt to set them off visually.
I wanted greens. They arrived in the theatrical form of ensalada de calabaza, in which a smoked squash (!) dressing outlined dark lettuces, apple slivers and crescents of roasted squash, with caramelized walnuts and blue cheese for pop. Dang, it was good.
So were my enmoladas, an elemental enchilada variant in which the tortillas were simply rolled in dusky pasilla-chile mole and folded up alongside sunnyside eggs with queso fresco, a shaved beet cornet, slabs of caramelized sweet plantain and a toasted hoja santa leaf as adornment. A simple basic idea in an elegant guise, one of the hallmarks of Ortegas cooking.
I even got a couple of items from the Day of the Dead menu to take out for later. Most spectacular was an Angus rib-eye grilled medium-rare, sauced with Xochis stirring mole negro and escorted by a knotty pan de muerto, its sweet dough swirled with a huitlacoche glaze.
That was the kind of brilliant idea that has always kept me eager to see what Ortega and his gifted team will dream up next.
It made me thrilled all over again to be in Houston, on the patio of one of the citys best restaurants, and for the moment fully alive.
food@chron.com
Alison Cook - a two-time James Beard Award winner for restaurant criticism and an M.F.K. Fisher Distinguished Writing award recipient - has been reviewing restaurants and surveying the dining scene for the Houston Chronicle since 2002.
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Patio Report: Alison Cook says Xochi in downtown is a thrilling adventure - Houston Chronicle
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Beausoleil has been a Baton Rouge staple for years. New owner and local restaurateur Stephen Hightower wasnt going to let that change.
When the restaurant closed for several months this summer and Hightower took ownership, his City Group Hospitality team quickly got to work. And when it reopened last week, diners got their first glimpse of the reimagined restaurant.
City Group renovated the inside and expanded the patio area along the right side of the buildings exterior. They renamed the restaurant Beausoleil Coastal Cuisine and reinvented the menu to match. While many of the original beloved menu items are still served, Hightower and his team decided to focus more on seafood.
Coastal cuisine allows you to work with a lot of food, Hightower says, from the French coast to the Italian coast to our coast.
At the raw bar, that includes crudo, oyster shooters and a Seacuterie Board of smoked fish and fresh sashimi. Elsewhere on the menu, youll find truffle-fried oysters, a lobster roll, a fried flounder sandwich, and entrees like a hearty cioppino accented with squid ink linguine and fennel cream sauce. For the meat lovers, dont pass up the Beausoleil Burger with caramelized onion jam or the bone-in butter-cured ribeye entree with foie gras and black garlic compound butter.
And in the spirit of its other projects like City Pork and Rouj Creole, City Group has revamped the restaurants interior with a design thats at once polished and fresh.
We figured wed put our City Group Hospitality spin on things, Hightower says. We just wanted to give it a fresh new look.
The first noticeable change is the spaces brightness. The rooms have been painted white to allow natural light to bounce off the walls. Chairs and booths have also been upholstered with a fresh green color to up the vibrance of the rooms.
The most eye-catching feature, however, is the raw bar. Located to the right of the entrancewhere the restaurants original, compact bar area once wasthe colorful, airy space greets diners as soon as they arrive. It has been opened up to offer more bar seating and a glass window providing a view of the oyster prep. It offers a bit of entertainment to anyone seated at the bar, and its metallic finishes, globe pendant lights and green-tiled countertop help modernize the space.
Local artist Ellen Ogden custom-painted much of the art in the restaurant, including a mural of pearlescent oysters and paintings inspired by Louisianas pre-pandemic festivals.
Keeping with this theme, Cajun cooking memorabilia and decor cover the walls, including antique dinnerware and vintage-style art.
The new patio is fenced in and offers a nice, quiet space to dine with elegant, white-tablecloth-dressed tables, wicker chairs and a large umbrella for shade.
It was a natural move, especially with the pandemic, Hightower says of the outdoor seating. It gives people a comfortable, safe space.
Beausoleil may have a new look, but the atmosphere of community and tradition is still the same.
Beausoleil is at 7731 Jefferson Highway and is open Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Friday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Saturday, 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; and Sunday, 10:30 a.m.-8 p.m.
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Beausoleil has reopened with a new look: a bright, contemporary interior and spacious patio - 225 Baton Rouge
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As indoor dining remains a restricted pastime, longtime LA restaurants Nate N Als and the Apple Pan built outdoor seating this week. These iconic spots are the latest restaurants to convert outdoor spaces for dine-in guests, a now-regular adjustment to accommodate customers during the coronavirus pandemic.
West LAs Apple Pan converted a parking lot behind the restaurant into an outdoor dining space with 13 picnic tables and umbrellas. Customers will order at a takeout window on the side of the restaurant. Beverly Hills 75-year-old Nate n Als built a patio space with 15 tables in front of the restaurant. The patios tables are divided by barriers.
Its especially good news for Nate N Als after its future became uncertain over the last few years. In 2018, it was rumored the family planned to sell and potentially close. A group of LA celebrities saved it. Nate N Als closed in March, then reopened in May.
Seating at both restaurants is first come, first served with the same classic menus.
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LAs Nate N Als And Apple Pans Don New Outdoor Seating - Eater LA
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Since August, local business Mike Ds BBQ, owner Michael De Los Santos (Mike D) and his wife Gloria, have been featured on the new Discovery Channel series, I QUIT. Over the course of one year,I QUITfollowed six sets of hopeful entrepreneurs as they leave their steady incomes and retirement plans behind, going all-in on their dreams of launching their own businesses. Along the way, they were mentored by three successful business leaders who have each built empires of their own Harley Finkelstein, president of Shopify, the global commerce platform powering more than 1 million businesses around the world; Debbie Sterling, CEO of the award-winning childrens multimedia company, GoldieBlox; and Tricia Clarke-Stone,entrepreneur, author, innovative marketer, and co-founder/CEO of the award-winning creative and tech agency, WP Narrative_.
Mike Ds BBQ is an award-winning line of signature BBQ sauces and all-purpose dry rubs. The business is the result of a long process of Mike refining his sauces and rubs to meet his desired flavor and then share it with the world. In 2009, a spicy version of the sauce was entered into a competition for amateur sauce makers in North Carolina. The spicy BBQ sauce came in3rd placeoverall and 2nd in its division. Since that time, friends and family encouraged Mike to take his product from the backyard to the masses.
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Grab some food and drinks inside Durhams Igloos on the Patio - CBS17.com
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COVID-19 Impact on Infrared Patio Heaters Market Projected to Deliver Greater Revenues By 2025 - Illadel Graff Supply
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Covered patios in Toronto have become more convenient than ever as the weather turns cold and rainy but indoor dining remains closed for the time being. Not only will you be dry on these patios, you'll also be well fed, so listen to the pitter patter of rain on the roof and be content you didn't have to break plans because of the forecast.
Here are some covered patios open in Toronto right now.
Tucking into the "Sunday Carb Night" or a cozy brunch on this heated and covered Yorkville patio is a great way to comfort yourself and lean into the colder weather.
A large awning can be rolled out over this patio in the St. Clair West neighbourhood, so whether excessive sun, heat or a little rain are your problem, this taco spot has a solution.
Stay totally safe and dry on the completely covered patio at this West Queen Westrestaurant that feels like you just stepped into a little spot in France.
It practically feels like you're not outside at all dining on this patio with a full overhead covering, a major sense of style and some seriously delicious Italian food.
An overhang on the back patio at this Parkdale bar keeps you from getting wet as you sample local craft beers and chow down on burgers and wings.
This Yorkville patio has been known for years for its ability to operate throughout the four seasons, but its coverings stretching over a large rooftop space are more useful now than ever.
Design isn't sacrificed for practicality on the roof of this Riverside hotel where a colourful patio is protected by an overhang. Sip on a cocktail and stare out at the view, even if it's a little cloudy.
An enclosed, covered patio is moody but also safe and protected at this restaurant in Parkdale. Cocktails, wine, beer and small snacks will help to while away the time if you're waiting for the rain to stop.
King West has this restaurant where a covered areawith twinkly lights providesthe setting for meals of French food such as oysters and house ham. Don't miss out on their wine, cocktails or brunch under the tents either.
An airy covering feels like a vast cloud floating over this South Core restaurant's patio, where classy noshes like crab salad and scallops can be had alongside some of the city's finest cocktails.
Head around back to find the covered patio at this Italian restaurant in Little Italy. Don't let anyone rain on your pizza and pasta party.
An awning covers this Leslieville restaurant's patio so a little drizzle won't ruin your sophisticated meal of pasta and seafood.
An ample covering ensures an afternoon snacking on antojitos and sipping cocktails at this Annex Mexican restaurant won't get rained out. Head here for a weatherproof brunch as well.
A covering that surrounds the patio at this bar on Bloor near Royal York provides protection for tons of guests. If you're looking for a classic sports bar vibe and shelter, head here.
This steakhouse at Casa Loma is still open for outdoor dining with a large transparent structure that protects guests from the elements while still allowing a view of the magical surroundings. You won't have to raincheck any big occasions planned here.
A covered area runs alongside this restaurant on the Harbourfront, so you can get a good view of the water, chow down on pizza and stay clear of any bad weather all at the same time.
Yorkville's go-to rooftop patio has a great deal of space plusretractable coverings so they can keep the party going rain or shine.
A covered patio at this Riverside brunch spot is the perfect place to fill up on some quiche and baguette while staying dry when the forecast is less than perfect.
Part of the back patio at this Riverside bar and restaurant is covered so you can keep sampling their extensive range of beers to your heart's content, even if it starts raining.
A barn-like atmosphere is created out on the covered patio at this Parkdale bar. Their red braised pork belly noodles are super comforting too should you need extra warming up.
The covered patio at this popular tapas bar is a Little Italy classic. It's typically standing room only, but it's worth it for the amazing pintxos and cocktails.
Billing its patio as the coziest in Toronto, this place on Niagara just south of King West serves brunch and pub food to comfort the soul.
Kombucha spritzes on the prettycovered patio full of airy design touches at this location of one of Toronto's most popular vegan restaurants are the best way to deal with summer ending.
This is one of Toronto's most well-known patios, situated outside an old schoolrestaurantin Little Italy. They've got you covered withfully protected outdoor dining from morning to night.
A tent set up on the rooftop of this Italian spot on Dundas West offers full shelter from the elements so you can stay dry and above it all while dining on pasta and seafood.
A huge tent at this CityPlace brunch spot is keeping their signature technicolour party vibes going from brunch until nighttime.
If jerk chicken and wine under a tent strung with twinkly lights sounds like your idea of a good time, head to this restaurant on King West where the patio has all that and more.
Tents outside this Little Italy restaurant keep guests and their pasta, pizza and desserts dry.
Large areas are covered at this bar in the Mount Pleasant neighbourhood where they serve comfort food like chicken pot pie alongside their very own beer.
Head to the back of this Dundas West restaurant and you'll find a glam covered patio with a menu of pasta and a wine list that will have you forgetting all about any stormy weather.
A large awning protects this Bloor West Village side patio with charming chalkboard menus, patio heaters keep it warm and pasta keeps your belly full.
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31 covered patios in Toronto where you can eat outside during the fall and winter - blogTO
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Indoor dining is currently prohibited throughout Toronto thanks to modified provincial Stage 2 restrictions, so the city is working on a plan to ensure restaurants can provide outdoor dining to customers all winter long.
Earlier this summer, the city introduced the CafTO program as a way to help restaurants and bars create and expand patios through an expedited process, including on sidewalks, private property, rooftops andin curb lanes.
Mayor John Tory said yesterday that all curb lane patios will soon, unfortunately, have to come down to allow for inevitable snow clearing, but a list of newwinter dining recommendations put forward by Tory aimsto ensure that all other patio types can remain and be usable throughout the season.
The list of recommendations includes extending the CafTO program from Nov.16 to April 14, waiving the fees for any curbside caf or frontage caf, and authorizing Economic Development and Culture to work with Destination Toronto and all business improvement to support safe winter economy initiatives and promote the winter economy including BYOB (Bring Your Own Blanket)campaigns promoting winter patios.
Tory's executive committee unanimously approved the new recommendations at a meeting Wednesday morning, and they'llgo to city council for final approval next week.
"This is the right thing to do. We know winter is coming and we need to support winter patios as much as possible now. We need to give businesses the flexibility to operate where safe and possible through the winter months," said Tory in a statement.
"While we have some limitations with respect to patios in curb lanes and ensuring we can safely clear our roads from the snow, there are opportunities that allow us to continue the success of patios through the winter in areas, such as sidewalks and private property including parking lots."
These new measures are in addition toa previously-announced extension of existing zoning bylaw amendments, and the city also announced that portable heating devices, including fire-fuelled appliances like propane heaters, would be allowed on all outdoor patio types in Torontoabout a month ago.
Since temperatures first started to dip, local restaurants have also been introducing a variety of new features and measures to facilitate outdoor dining in the cooler weather, including putting up different portable domes and pods to shield diners from the elements.
TheBroadview Danforth BIA, meanwhile, announced today that they're launchingFall Thrill of the Chill,a program providing free thermal blankets to all outdoor diners in the neighbourhood.
"These recommendations approved today will allow us to continue the success of CafTO through the winter and do our part to help a number of these businesses through this difficult time,"said Tory.
"I am also engaged in continuous discussions with the industry itself, with our officials and with the other governments to further find ways we can help."
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Here's what Toronto is doing to make winter patios happen - blogTO
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Will the pandemic result in more restaurants creating warm, welcoming outdoor spaces?
Of all the businesses feeling the sting of the pandemic, perhaps none have been hit harder than the restaurant industry.
At its outset last March, Nathan McLaughlin (Cook 04) and his business partner at Edmonton restaurants Next Act Pub, Meat and Pip were forced to lay off 110 employees.
It was definitely the hardest day of our lives, says McLaughlin, chef and co-owner of the Old Strathcona eateries.
As the weather warmed and public health restrictions relaxed, the restaurant group eventually hired back 98% of its staff. A key part of the businesses resurgence, he says, were loyal customers hungry for dining spaces that made socialization as safe as possible. At Next Act, new temporary rules for patios that were implemented by the city to help restaurants through the pandemic allowed the business to expand onto the sidewalk and triple its outdoor seating capacity.
It definitely helped a lot, says McLaughlin.
As the days grow colder and darker, restaurants across the city are considering whether to winterize outdoor spaces for expanded seating and choice for customers leery of indoor dining.
McLaughlin says theyve spent the past couple of weeks installing new propane firepits on their patios and theyre mulling options such as temporary coverings. But theyre unsure how far to go. Edmonton may bill itself as a winter city but the reality is that only a handful of local eateries have created year-round outdoor dining spaces.
If McLaughlin spends the money to build a winter patio, will anyone actually come?
The answer may depend on design. Restaurateurs and customers alike will need to fully embrace the idea of a winter city, says Landscape Architectural Technology chair Jennifer Jones (class of 05). Here, she discusses what it will take to redefine patio season in Edmonton, and preserve precious revenue-generating space for an industry that needs it most.
According to Jones, designing a winter patio, whether for a restaurant or at home, neednt be complicated or cost-prohibitive. But it does require paying attention to five basic elements: wind, sun, lighting, colour and infrastructure.
These categories, from Edmontons winter design guidelines, are taught to NAIT students as part of a winter city design course launched last year. Jones designed the curriculum to introduce students to urban design concepts that can be applied to spaces for use year-round.
If youre addressing the wind, youre providing warmth.
This is a new conversation for our region but there are northern countries like Norway, Sweden, Denmark and Iceland that have been doing this forever, she says.
When it comes to patio designs for winter, Jones says spaces on the south side of a building can take advantage of warmth from sunshine and block bone-chilling winds blowing from the northwest. If youre addressing the wind, youre providing warmth.
Fencing and temporary screening also help keep drafts away, but so can natural design features such as coniferous trees. Awnings can also help block frigid down-drafts from tall buildings.
Infrastructure such as propane heaters and fireplaces are typically the only way to introduce heat to such spaces, Jones says. From an aesthetic perspective I always prefer wood burning, but you cant always go by aesthetics. It comes down to function.
When the sun sets in the early afternoon, lighting and colour become other critical elements to creating a welcoming space. Low-cost elements like an umbrella can add a pop of brightness and a sense of enclosure, she says.
If a patio just isnt an option, Jones says restaurant owners might consider other ideas such as a pickup window for takeout or selling hot chocolate to help embrace winter.
You dont have to do everything.
Jones points to examples such as the year-round patio at Cafe Bicyclette and the iceway at Victoria Park and skating trails at Borden Park as great examples of spaces and design that are changing peoples attitudes about what a winter experience is, she says.
This could be Edmontons identity that were a winter city."
This could be Edmontons identity that were a winter city. If we embrace various levels of design, where no matter where you go in winter, youre having a comfortable time that could be a great personality for a city.
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What will it take to embrace winter patios in Edmonton? - techlifetoday
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I try to spend as much time as humanly possible outdoors, and the only thing that ever seems to put a dent in my plans is cold weather. Getting fresh air is more important now than ever, and with the holidays coming up, many people are considering hosting small and safe get-togethers outside in order to safely celebrate and see family. But what if you live in an area with chilly temperatures? You don't want to be freezing and miserable through it all, which is why outdoor heaters are the perfect solution to getting outdoors and staying comfortable and cozy.
Outdoor heaters can range in size and strength, so there's bound to be something perfect for everyone's space whether it's a large back porch on an acre of land or a small balcony like I have at my apartment. Keep reading for 12 outdoor heater options at a variety of price points, so you can all enjoy the colder months without sacrificing time outside.
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Stay Warm While Relaxing Outside This Winter With These 12 Outdoor Heaters For All Spaces - POPSUGAR
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Toronto's newest heated, covered patio is set to be the biggest one yet.
Called The Marquee, it'll be popping up at Cabana's waterfront patio, and will encompass 5,400 square feet of heated, covered space.
The concept will come with a brand new menu designed by Oliver & Bonacini, seasonal cocktails and an interactive art installation by Bruno Billio.
Cabana transformed from a "pool bar" to a "waterfront patio" at the beginning of the summer, forgoing dance and lounge space for reservation-only seated dining.
The space will be able tohold 200 peoplespaced six feet apart, and will be only open Thursday through Sunday from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Natural gas blowers located outside the tent will apparently blow hot air into the tent through ducts.
According to a spokesperson from Cabana, the patio will alsobe bathed in a permanent sunset thanks to an installation called TRON: As The Sun Sets by Bruno Billiothat uses pink and yellow neon as well as colour-filtered moving projections, and will feature a jewel-like glowing orange Hennessy bar.
As for the new menu, expect raw bar offerings, steak, fried chicken, pizza, burgers and fish n' chips.
Cocktail creations themed around the changing seasons include a Fireball Hot Toddy, Red Bull Winter Storm, Warm Fashioned and Allspice Sour. The Marquee willbe launching brunch starting in November.
Theyre also doing a special Halloween dinner where they're encouraging everyoneto come in costume, so if you'relooking for a distanced way to get out of the house for the holiday, you might want to look into booking a reso.
The new patio opens thisSaturday, Oct. 24.
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Toronto is getting a massive heated and covered patio on the waterfront - blogTO
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