Welcome to ABTCO's Answers to Frequently Asked Questions. If you can't find what you're looking for, please don't hesitate to Contact Us.

What kind of nails do you use to hang vinyl siding?

Do you have to hand cut vinyl siding or can it be cut using a saw?

The siding on my house is loose. Is that normal?

Can moisture get behind vinyl siding? If it does, how does it get out?

My neighbor's home has vinyl siding and it looks wavy. What does that mean?

What should I be looking for in a good quality vinyl product?

Will vinyl siding melt?

Is vinyl siding easy to install?

Can vinyl siding be applied directly over wood siding?

Why would I choose vinyl siding over other siding materials?

What kind of nails do you use to hang vinyl siding?

Use electro, or hot-dipped galvanized steel or aluminum roofing type nails with a diameter of 1/8" and a nail head of 3/8" or larger. The nails should penetrate 3/4" into a solid wood base. Properly installed nails will have 1/32" - 1/16" clearance between the nail head and nail hem. Never use anything less than a 1" nail. If you have other materials between your base and siding, you will want to use an even longer nail. Remember to nail straight, nail in the center of the shot and never nail vinyl tight! Vinyl must be able to move freely.

Do you have to hand cut vinyl siding or can it be cut using a saw?

Keep your vinyl shears and utility knife handy, but for the most part vinyl siding is cut with a power circular or chop saw. Use a fine-toothed blade mounted in the reverse direction. Go slow for a nice clean cut and always wear eye protection.

The siding on my house is loose. Is that normal?

Heat and cold can make vinyl expand and contract so your vinyl siding should be able to move back and forth on your wall.

Can moisture get behind vinyl siding? If it does, how does it get out?

It is typical to have some moisture behind sidewall materials; it becomes a problem when the moisture isn't allowed an escape. Vinyl siding has small holes called weep holes in the bottom edge of each piece of vinyl. These holes and the proper clearances in receiving channels are the escape route for any moisture that collects behind your siding.

My neighbor's home has vinyl siding and it looks wavy. What does that mean?

Your neighbor's siding may be suffering from poor surface preparation, and/or "oil canning". General waviness is often a result of an uneven surface behind the new siding. Furring strips are typically used to help level a wall prior to siding installation. Oil canning, which looks like wrinkles in the siding, happens when the siding is installed improperly by either nailing too tightly, positioning the nails incorrectly in the nail slots or not leaving enough expansion room in receiving channels such as corner posts and J-channels. Once a siding panel is oil canned it will have to be replaced.

What should I be looking for in a good quality vinyl product?

First, you should look for siding certified under the Vinyl Siding Institute's third-party certification program. Certification under this program ensures that the siding meets ASTM D3679 requirements. This is the industry standard for vinyl siding.

Second, you'll need to determine what level of performance you will need. For example, some sidings are thicker than others, which can increase impact resistance and rigidity. Some sidings have a higher profile height than others, which can also increase rigidity. Added rigidity can help provide a straighter installed appearance. Some sidings have different windload resistances, as well. Typically, thicker sidings with taller profile heights and higher windload resistances are more expensive than thinner sidings with lower profile heights and lower windload resistances.

Finally, you should be certain you hire a quality, insured siding contractor. Ask for references and to see examples of his or her work. Find out if they guarantee their work. We warrant siding against manufacturing defects, but do not warrant installation. You may also want to check with the Better Business Bureau to see if any complaints about the contractor have been registered.

Will vinyl siding melt?

If you expose your vinyl to an excessive heat source such as an open flame or if you place a hot grill against the wall, it will sag and possibly even melt. But everyday exposure to the sun's heat will not cause your siding to melt.

Is vinyl siding easy to install?

If you are fairly handy with tools and overall home improvements don't intimidate you then yes, vinyl is fairly easy to install. ABTCO recommends watching an instructional video and reading our installation manual closely. Be sure to follow all directions carefully. Remember, improper installation can void your warranty.

Can vinyl siding be applied directly over wood siding?

To install siding over existing hardboard or wood siding you must use furring strips. Furring strips are 1" X 3" strips of wood nailed vertically every 12" to 16" around the entire house. This will act as a flat surface to nail your vinyl. You may wish to use an insulated sheathing between each furring strip. Flat sheet sidings (i.e. T-111) can be sided directly without furring strips, but should be checked for damage, and replaced as necessary prior to applying the new vinyl siding. For more information please see our installation instructions.

Why would I choose vinyl siding over other siding materials?

The number one reason is low maintenance. A spray with a garden hose and you are done. No more scraping, caulking and painting your house. With today's technology, some vinyl sidings look just like wood sidings, even up close. Vinyl siding is very cost effective. Compare for yourself. Remember: vinyl is warranted not to rot, chip or peel. It will not ever have to be painted.

Today, vinyl siding is used on million dollar homes because it is the smart choice.

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ABTCO FAQ's | Info

Strength and Beauty in an Exterior Product For decades, APA Rated Siding products have been lending strength and beauty to contemporary residential and light commercial buildings. APA Rated Siding panels and lap siding are structural products produced with known and reliable strength and stiffness properties. Siding panels can be applied direct to studs or over sheathing.

APA Rated Siding products are manufactured from a number of different species and are available in configurations such as reverse board and batten, T1-11, channel groove and other common finishes. These attractive panels can be stained or painted and offer a cost-effective and attractive exterior for contemporary structures. For more traditional architectural styles, lap siding products are also available.

The APA Mark of Quality

APA trademarks appear only on products manufactured by APA member mills. The mark signifies that panel quality is subject to verification through APA audit a procedure designed to assure manufacture in conformance with APA performance standards or the standard shown in the mark.

For further details on APA Rated Siding,refer to the Product Guide for Performance Rated Siding, Form E300,which covers face grades, textures and patterns, finishing and refinishing, how to order and specify, and basic application recommendations.

View additional related publications on siding, including case studies, technical sheets, builder tips and more.

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Siding - APA The Engineered Wood Association

P.J. Fitzpatrick, Inc. installs a variety of siding types to make your home not only look better but protect it with the very best materials in the industry. We are a Certified Vinyl Siding Installer with CertainTeed and an award winning company with an excellent track record.

Step one of the process is the delivery of the materials to the customers home. All materials are carefully packaged & wrapped to avoid any damage to your siding during shipping & delivery.

Preparation is so important. So many companies will simply cover up problems and do not address them. We will first remove your old siding, inspect your home and cut out any rotten or damaged wood and replace it with solid wood.

As part of a PJF installation, your entire home is covered with Tyvek. Why do we wrap your home with Tyvek? It is like putting a windbreaker over a sweater on a cold windy day!

VSI certified installation standards require flashing in critical areas where water infiltration is most likely to occur. Outside corners, inside corners, and sill areas. The trademarks of a PJF siding installation are the details that cannot be seen. Managing water behind the siding gives you unquestionable protection.

Attention to detail is a Fitzpatrick tradition. Most companies don't take the time to miter cut the corner trim J channels. Small details like these miter cuts make a beautiful difference to your new siding job.

A beautiful siding job must start with a rock solid foundation. And our starter strip insures your project will get off on the right foot. If something is not right when it goes in, its never going to get better. You will never see the starter strip used on your siding job, bit it is one of the most critical components of a job that will last a lifetime.

Homes built without a solid sub-sheathing do not provide a strong enough substrate to hold nails. Our stud finder system of installation withstands gale force winds up to 185mph and meets all Dade County hurricane codes.

Click the map for our service areas.

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Siding Installation Process | PJ Fitzpatrick

EICHLER SIDING INSTALLATION TIPS Keep in mind that the investment in Eichler Siding for your home is only as good as the steps you take to insure that the siding is prepared and installed properly.

We suggest that you use a licensed contractor WHO HAS GOOD REFERENCES AND HAS EXPERIENCE INSTALLING SIDING. We are surprised to discover that some contractors are not even aware of proper installation techniques. We suggest you use this sheet and any other information you find from reputable installers and have your installer/painter initial each paragraph indicating that they have read and understand the issues.

These guidelines are provided as important issues to consider and to help educate the homeowner.

They are not intended to take the place of knowledgeable experienced installers and painters. Sometimes unique issues surface related to your particular home and situation. There is no substitution for quality building techniques and experienced installers who are familiar with your home, and the climate in your area. Bottom line, you don't want an inexperienced installer "practicing" on your home!

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INSTALLATION TIPS - Eichler Siding

For over 50 years, Central Roofing and Siding Co. has been providing the residents of Maryland and Washington D.C. with quality Siding installations. As a Maryland and DC Siding specialist, we take great pride in our work and we aren't satisified until the customer is satisfied.

There are 3 main reasons to apply Siding to your house:

The latest innovation in siding is called Fiber-Cement. Fiber-Cement Siding has the same attributes as those above but also retains the look of real wood. Fiber-Cement siding will also provide superior protection from the elements and hold up well for years to come.

Central Roofing and Siding Co. is a Certified Pro James Hardie Fiber Cement Installer. We are one of the leading HardiePlank installers in Maryland and Washington Dc.

For more information about how we can make your house a truly special place, please give us a call at (301) 881-2424

Central Roofing Siding & Windows Co. is proud to be a member and a partner of the following organizations:

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Siding | Home Siding Installation | Rockville, Gaithersburg ...

Siding Installation Is Time and Cost Effective

Siding installation in Waukesha Wi comes with some of the same benefits as our Leaf Guard gutters quality materials with less maintenance and upkeep. Many of our clients look to siding installation so that they wont have to worry about painting and intensive exterior maintenance. Plus, vinyl siding saves time. Once siding installation is finished, it requires no additional costs or maintenance.

American Roofing has performed quality siding installation for several Waukesha homeowners. Clientswhoveseen our work and trust our quality materials and craftsmanship with their roof often prefer to have us work on all exterior areas of their home including their guttersand siding. When we work on your siding installation or other services, we can assure that the job will be done right and youll have a very quality job done. Your satisfaction is more important to us than our overall bottom line. Why? Because by focusing on you, we hope to be your preferred contractor that you refer to your friends and family.

Siding installation adds many benefits to your home. If youre considering investing in siding installation, you can expect:

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Free Siding Installation Estimates | Waukesha, Big Bend ...

Seattle Vinyl Composite and Fiber Cement Siding Installation Increase your homes beauty, value, and durability. Image Gallery View Past Siding Projects by Washington Energy Services

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When you work with us for siding replacement, youll have one central contact throughout the entire process. This expert will always be available to answer questions, provide options, and act as a consultant before, during, and after installation.

You have a unique style. Let it show in your homes siding. Your siding replacement specialist at Washington Energy Services will help you customize beautiful siding solutions to make your home stand out. Whether you select sleek contemporary styles or opt for a more traditional look, we have the options you need to carefully choose the siding that best fits your unique personality. Our expert will be there to explain the features and benefits of each option.

We back every project we install with our 100% Satisfaction Guarantee. If you are not completely satisfied with our products or service, we will simply remove our equipment and refund your money.* See details.

Its simple. We are craftsmen who have a passion for what we do. With the industrys most experienced installers and continuous training to ensure high standards and quality siding installations, WES is our areas premier siding provider and installer. We take the time to make sure you have the information you need to make the right decision for your home and budget. We dont believe in short cuts.

After all, home is where your life happens. Nothing less than the best will do.

Were honored to have BBB Accreditation. BBB is the resource of objective, unbiased information on businesses. Businesses must meet their high standards and we continue to live up to their Standard of Trust by emphasizing fair and honest practices for customers.

Check out some of our before and after photos for examples. We have receivedexcellent reviews for siding on Angies list and LocalLoop.com, orsee this unpaid customer and his Washington Energy siding story.

Most homeowners replace siding once in a lifetime. Its a major investment, so substantial consideration should be taken at every stage of the process. While we cant comment on other contractors methods, here is what to expect if you replace siding with Washington Energy.

While we perform siding repairs for our warranty customers, we do not offer siding repair projects or one wall jobs.

LP siding from theLouisiana Pacific company has been known to have several issues, including moisture absorbance. If you have LP siding, wecan help you evaluate the condition of the siding and advise you onreplacements that fit your budget and design preferences.

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Seattle Siding Installation | Washington Energy Services

If you're looking to improve the look of your home without the painting, vinyl siding is a popular, affordable choice. Many homeowners and builders choose it because it's long lasting, durable, inexpensive and relatively easy to install and maintain. Vinyl comes in a variety of grains, thickness and colours making it also a practical choice for many homeowners.

The proper tools, materials and equipment will make the installation of your vinyl siding much easier. Listed below are the most essential items:

1. Allow for expansion and contraction. Vinyl Siding must be nailed so expansion and contraction are not restricted. Siding must be cut in lengths to provide for expansion. Allow a 1/4 in. gap for expansion wherever siding butts accessories. Allow 3/8 in. when installing in freezing weather (below 4C / 40F).

2. Choose the right nails. Vinyl Siding must be nailed so expansion and contraction are not restricted. Siding must be cut in lengths to provide for expansion. Allow a 1/4 in. gap for expansion wherever siding butts accessories. Allow 3/8 in. when installing in freezing weather (below 4C / 40F).

3. Choose the right nails. Allow approximately 1/16 in. between nail head and vinyl. This will permit expansion and contraction as well as prevent dimpling, which causes waves in siding. [fig. A]

4. Centre nails in slots. Do not nail to the extreme right or left of nail slot in siding panel. [fig. B]

5. Drive nails straight and level. Crooked nails will distort siding panels, causing panels to buckle. [fig. C]

6. Do NOT face nail. Nailing directly into siding panel will restrict horizontal movement and cause panel to buckle.

7. Never pull siding taut when nailing. Pulling the panel taut stretches the panel out of shape and causes an undesirable lap joint. Panels should be locked, then pushed up from the bottom until full lock contact is made. Nail into place.

8. Space nails properly. Siding panels should be nailed 12 in. to 16 in. on centre.

1. Aviation & Tin Snip Start cutting at the top interlock and continue toward the bottom of the panel.

2. Utility Knife Score panel with knife, then bend the vinyl back and forth until it snaps cleanly on the scored line.

3. Power Saw, Bench or Radial Arm Saw Use a fine-tooth blade with slow cutting movements. Reverse the blade in the saw for extra-smooth cutting through the vinyl and to reduce chipping.

In new construction furring is not usually necessary, but older homes often have walls that are uneven. These walls should be furred out to prevent a wavy appearance in the finished siding job.

Horizontal Siding Installation Guide

1. Snap chalk line. Find the lowest corner of the old siding or sheathing on the house. Partly drive a nail 11/2 in. higher than the lowest corner. Stretch a chalk line from this nail to a similar nail at next corner. Be sure line is level. Snap chalk line and repeat same procedure around entire house.

2. Installing starter strip. Position starter strip with the top edge of chalk line and allow room for corner posts. Nail to wall, following nailing instructions in Important Installation Tips. When the wall surface is uneven, shim out the starter strip to avoid a wavy appearance in the finished siding job. Drive nails to remove excessive play in starter, but do not nail tightly restricting movement. As you add starter strip sections, be sure to leave 1/4 in. space between strips for expansion [fig. D].

3. Installing inside corner posts. Inside corner posts are installed at the existing corners, running from 3/4 in. below the bottom of the starter strip. If vinyl soffit is to be installed, allow proper distance below the underside of eaves for soffit installation accessories (which vary according to the accessory used). Set corner posts straight and true. Nail them to the adjoining walls, beginning at the top, placing nails at the top of the uppermost nailing slots, allowing the posts to hang on these nails. The rest of the nails should be placed every 8 in. to 12 in. in the centre of the nail slots. This will allow vertical expansion of the corner posts. Do not nail tight.

4. Splicing inside corner posts. If more than one length of inside corner post is required, make a splice as follows: Cut 1 in. off all but the outer face of the upper portion of the lower corner post. Then lay 3/4 in. of the upper post over the lower post, allowing 1/4 in. for expansion [fig. E].

5. Installing outside corner posts. Position the outside corner post to allow 1/4 in. gap at the top where the post will meet the eaves. Cut the post long enough to extend past the bottom of the starter strip by 3/4 in. If vinyl soffit is to be installed, allow proper distances (which vary according to the accessory used) below the underside of the eaves. Attach the posts by placing a nail in the top of the upper slot on each side. Posts will hang on these two nails. The rest of the nails should be placed in the centre of the slots, 8 in. to 12 in. on centre. This allows for expansion and contraction to occur at the bottom. Do not nail tight.

6. Splicing outside corner posts. If more than one length of outside corner post is required, make a splice as follows: cut 1 in. of the nailing flanges and receiving channel stops away from the bottom portion of the upper post. Then lap 3/4 in. of the upper post over the lower post allowing 1/4 in. for expansion [fig. F].

7. Capping outside corner posts. Cut 2 1/2 in. flaps as shown in Fig. G. Bend the flaps to close off the post. A rivet can be used if needed.

8. Installing "J" channel around windows and doors. Install "J" channel around all four sides of window and doors. Install the "J" channel against the casing and nail it to the wall, following nailing instructions in Important Installation Tips. Do not nail tight. [fig. H].

9. Square corner "J" channel installation. Cut and install bottom "J" flush with the sides of the window casing. Install side "J" channels flush with the lower face of the bottom "J" channel and with the top of the window casing. Cut a tab in the bottom of the side "J" channels and fold under. Cut and install top "J" flush with the outer face of the side "J's". Cut and bend drain tab.

10. Mitering corners of the "J" channel. Install bottom "J" channel to extend past side casing the width of the "J"-face on each end. Cut out a 3/4 in. notch in the back of each end and install. Cut a 3/4 in. notch in the bottom of side "J" channels and bend tab. Miter bottom side "J" to give a false mitered appearance when installed.

11. Installing first siding panel. Snap bottom of panel into starter strip and nail to wall as in Important Installation Tips. Begin panel installation at back corner of house and work toward house front. Leave a 1/4 in. space where panel butts corner post. Note: siding should be lapped away from high traffic areas, i.e., doors, sidewalks, etc.

12. Overlap joints. Overlap each panel 1 in. to 11/4 in. of the factory pre-notched cutouts. Last nail should be at least 10 in. from end of panel to allow neat lap.

13. Installing balance of siding. After completing the first course, work your way up. Start each course at back of house and continue toward front. Stagger joints properly, lapping them away from street and entrance. Leave a 1/4 in. gap where panels butt corner posts and "J" channel around window. Allow 3/8 in. when installing in freezing weather (below 4C / 40F) [fig. I]. Note: For best visual appearance, do not stair step or concentrate lap joints too closely.

14. Fitting siding under windows. When you reach a window, you probably will have to cut siding panel to fit under the opening. Make this panel extend on both sides of the window. Measure the panel to fit. Holding the siding panel under the window, mark the width of the opening on the panel allowing 1/4 in. clearance on each window side. Next, lock a scrap piece of siding into the panel below, butting against the window. Mark the height needed, allowing 1/4 in. clearance below the sill. Measure both sides of the window opening this way. Use the scrap piece as a guide to mark horizontal cuts on the siding panel [fig. J].

15. Cutting siding to fit. Make vertical cuts on the siding panel with saw or snips. Then score horizontally with a utility knife and snap out section to be removed.

16. Cutting siding around window. Install undersill trim the width of the window flush to the casing. Furring may be necessary to maintain proper pitch of the siding. Using the snap-lock punch, punch the panel 1/4 in. below the cut edge at 6 in. intervals. The resulting raised lugs should face outward and will snap into undersill trim.

17. Fitting siding over windows. Measure and cut panel to fit. Measure and cut panel in the same manner detailed in step 14 but cut lower portion instead of top. Be sure to check both sides for proper fit. Install panel. Drop siding panel into "J" channel around top of window and install.

18. Finishing top row of siding under eaves. Nail the undersill trim to the sidewall, flush with the eave of house. It may be necessary to fur out the undersill trim to maintain proper pitch of the top siding panel. More than one length of undersill trim may be required under the eave and will need to be spliced.

19. Fitting top siding panel. Measure and cut top panel to fit. To determine how much of the top panel must be cut off, measure the distance between the top of under-sill trim and the lock of the panel below, then deduct 1/4 in. Cut top siding panel to this dimension. The panel will no longer have a nailing strip after cutting [fig. K].

20. Snap locking top panel. Punch top panel with snap-lock punch. Insert cut panel into trim and draw a line on panel where they meet. Using snap-lock punch tool, punch the panel on top of this line every 6 in. so raised material is on the outside face.

21. Installing top panel. Lock bottom of panel into panel below and push top edge into undersill trim. The raised slots will catch and hold the panel firmly in place. DO NOT FACE NAIL SIDING.

22. Finishing top course under gable. First nail "J" channel to sidewall flush with gable as described in Important Installation Tips. If more than one length of "J" channel is required to finish one side of gable, a splice will be needed. To cut panels on proper angle, use two scrap pieces of siding to make a pattern for cutting. Interlock one panel with the siding panel below, hold the other piece on top against the gable. Then mark a line on bottom piece and cut. This piece is now a pattern for cutting panels to fit along one side of gable. Follow the same procedure to make pattern for other side [fig. L]. Lock pre-cut siding panel into siding panel below and slide siding panel into "J" channel.

Note: Be sure to allow 1/4 in. expansion gap between siding and gable end "J"; channel, and 3/8 in. in freezing weather.

1. Open eave installation. For open overhangs use "F" trim which has been nailed to the wall of the house. Using a level, make pencil marks on the wall, parallel with the lower edge of wood fascia board at the end of each wall. These are for reference points. From these marks, measure up 7/8 in. and strike a chalk line. Along this line install the "F" trim with its top leg on the chalk line. This step is very important, because the "F" trim or "J" channel forms the back support for the soffit panel. Intermediate nailing supports should be installed on eaves over 16 in. in width.

2. Closed eave installation. Install 1/2 in. "J" channel on inside wall and behind fascia board. Measure distance between 1/2 in. "J" channels from back edge to back edge. Then cut soffit panels according to these dimensions to allow 1/4 in. clearance for contraction and expansion. On panels over 36 in. allow 1/4 in. on each end. Use solid panels, and for areas where ventilation is required, use perforated soffit. After cutting panels to the desired length, insert end into wall support piece ("J" channel or "F" trim). Lining the panel up correctly, nail the panel to the existing soffit through the nailing hem. After the first panel is installed, insert locking leg of second panel into the installed panel, covering the nailing hem. Fit the panels together snugly to protect against misalignment. Intermediate nailing supports are necessary on widths over 16 in.

3. Turning corners. When turning corners it may be necessary to miter the soffit panel to the proper angle. Use two 1/2 in. "J" channels back-to-back to create additional support for the panels [fig. N].

4. Closing soffit ends. Use 1/2 in. "J" channel cut to length and installed on the ends by nailing into overhang and fitting into "F" trim and "J" channel supporting soffit panel. In applications using both soffit and fascia, install frieze runner ("F" trim) on the bottom of fascia board and complete soffit installation. Prepare for installation of fascia panel by applying an undersill trim along the top of the fascia board. Hook the bottom lock of the fascia panel over the "F" trim, which is already installed on the bottom of the fascia board. Then insert top edge of fascia into undersill trim. Use a snap-lock punch tool on the fascia panel to punch out raised slots every 6 in. so that the fascia is held firmly in place. Cut fascia panel minus 1/8 in. For proper fit and appearance of fascia panel, "F" trim and undersill trim should be run straight to avoid waviness. It is recommended that a chalk line be used and channels installed on a straight line. Warning: Do not face-nail vinyl fascia panel.

To fabricate corner cap, cut piece of fascia 51/2 in. in length. Mark vertical centerline on back cut. Cut out 90 section of bottom flange from centre, leaving 45 on each side. Using hand seamer metal straightedge, fold along vertical centerline to form right-angle corner. Top edge of corner cap is punched with snap-lock punch tool. The corner cap is then hooked onto the bottom ends of the fascia, and the top is snapped into place in undersill trim [figs. O, P, Q].

These instructions are only intended to provide general installation guidelines. Check with local building codes for any additional requirements regarding wall preparation and vinyl siding installation.

Tools, products, materials, techniques, building codes and local regulations change; therefore, Lowe's assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any project. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed professional if in doubt about any procedures. Please visit our terms of use.

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Installing Vinyl Siding | Lowe's Canada

Lap siding is installed upward, starting at the bottom of the wall.

Expert advice on how to install wood or fiber-cement lap siding, including how to prepare exterior walls and lay out siding for installation.

Also called horizontal siding or clapboard, lap siding, may be made of wood, fiber-cement, plywood, hardboard, or similar materials. Despite the variety of materials, installation methods are basically the same, with a few variations in fasteners, joints, and so forth. For example, you install fiber-cement lap siding in much the same way as wood siding, but most manufacturers advise you to leave 1/8-inch gaps at the ends of the boards to allow for expansion and then caulk the gaps. Always follow the manufacturers directions.

Most lap siding is beveled, meaning that the bottom edge is thicker than the top. As its name lap implies, an upper siding board laps over the board below it by 1 to 2 inches. On thick profiles of siding, nails may be hidden, meaning they are driven into the upper portion of a board so they are covered by the lower part of the board above it. Otherwise, nails may be left exposed and covered by paint, in which case they are driven into the lower portion of a board so they pass just above the upper edge of the board below them.

If you are planning to paint your siding, its a good idea to prime all the pieces on all sides before installing them; that way, the backsides will also be protected against rot and the boards are less likely to cup or twist. Always prime the cut ends of boards before installing the boards.

In some custom installations, lap siding is carefully mitered at outside corners. This makes for a classic look but calls for very good carpentry skills and boards that are certain not to shrink. The method discussed here is an easier and more common oneinstalling corner trim first and then butting the siding to it.

The walls should be stripped of all previous siding, and the surface should be fairly smooth and flat because lap siding will follow along any contours. Some 3/4-inch-thick patterns of siding can be applied directly over wall studs. Thinner patterns should be installed over a base of plywood or oriented strand board sheathing. Staple a layer of house wrap to the sheathing, working from the bottom up, and overlapping joints by several inches so that any water that reaches it will shed down the wall. Again, follow the manufacturers recommendations.

Plywood sheathing provides a sound, flat base for lap siding.

Around windows and doors, install metal flashing before applying the trim to be sure water will not infiltrate. Some installers install vertical strips of roofing felt over the studs; these help you locate the studs, and they help seal the nail shanks to prevent moisture penetration.

Determine how the boards will look where they meet an eave at the top. You may be able to install a trim piece there after the siding is installed, or you may need to cut the siding to fit precisely.

Determine the desired revealthe vertical width of the boards that will be exposed. For instance, you may have 8-inch-wide boards with a 5 1/2-inch reveal. If you buy siding that has installation grooves, such as shiplap or bevel-rabbeted siding, the reveal will be determined by the rabbet or the shiplap; you simply stack boards on top to get a consistent reveal. On non-grooved siding, you will need to make sure the reveals are all equal by checking the spacing frequently or using a story pole as described in Cutting & Fastening Lap Siding.

In most cases, the siding will wrap all the way around the house. The last boards must meet at the same level or the installation will look unprofessional. This means you must establish and mark a level baseline all of the way around the house. Use a water level, line level, or transit level to make these layout lines.

You may want to modify the layout so you have full-width boards at the top of windows or doors, especially if you have a number of windows at the same height. Be sure to work out this spacing ahead of time. Here is an excellent video on exactly how to do this: How to Make a Story Pole for Exterior Lap Siding.

NEXT SEE: Cutting & Fastening Lap Siding

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How to Install Lap Siding | HomeTips

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We can help you find a siding installation or repair contractor in your area. The pros in our network provide free cost estimates for a variety of siding projects and material types such as: vinyl, wood, metal, aluminum, stucco, fiber cement, brick, stone, and liquid spray on siding. We are a fast and easy way to find a local contractor.

Chances are that you have come to our site because you need to find a siding installation or repair contractor in your local area. Well, you have come to the right place. We will help you find a professional to take care of your project needs. It does not matter if it is a small project or a large project, we will help you find a pro to help you out.

Siding installation contractors. These types of professionals specialize in 1) removing existing siding, 2) installing insulating backing, and 3) siding installation. However, be sure to hire a pro that has experience with the type of material you are installing. For instance, a contractor that specializes in wood may not be appropriate if you are installing stucco. Find local siding contractors.

Siding repair contractors. Wind, hail, and other natural disasters are common causes of siding damage. Have a contractor come to your property and help you determine whether your siding should be repaired or replaced. Find local siding repair pros.

Vinyl siding. Vinyl siding is the most popular type of siding. It is both durable and cost effective. Many new vinyl products simulate the look of natural materials (such as wood). Receive a vinyl siding quote.

Wood siding. Wood siding most commonly comes in the form of wood shakes (small square and rectangular pieces) and clapboard (long horizontal pieces that span the width of your home). Wood has a great aesthetic look but it does cost a little more and requires long term maintenance (painting or staining). Receive wood siding quotes.

Stucco siding. Stucco is a popular material used commonly in the south and west. Stucco is a plaster type material that is either sprayed or toweled onto a surface. It goes on easily and can be used to cover irregular shapes. One great benefit of stucco is that it comes in a wide variety of colors and can be dyed to match the exact color you would like to use. Receive stucco siding quotes.

Metal or aluminum siding. Metal siding was first introduced as an affordable option that was maintenance free. Although it fell out of fashion for a while, metal siding has made a comeback. Manufacturers have started making various shapes of metal siding and metal panels and architects are using the material for their buildings reflecting a modern architectural style. Receive stucco siding quotes.

Fiber cement siding. This type of siding can come in long strips similar to wood clapboard or in larger squares or rectangles. It is a durable material that requires little maintenance. It is one of the more expensive types of siding but it has the benefit of being a non-combustible material (which means it does not burn easily). Receive stucco siding quotes.

Find a good siding contractor. It is not easy to find good, qualified, contractor. Maybe we can help. Complete a request form with information about your project. We will help match your request with a professional in our network. You will receive a price estimate without cost. Our service is time efficient and you have no obligation to hire the professional we match you to. Get matched to a siding contractor.

Our site will save you the hassle of looking in the phone book, calling someone, waiting for a call, and then scheduling an appointment. With our service, you submit your request outlining your project details. Businesses that are interested in completing your project request contact you and provide you a quote. The companies that have the time and interest will contact you. Receive free siding cost estimates.

We suggest that you review the license and insurance of the professional you select. We also suggest that you call references or review the ratings and reviews from previous customers.

Please note: When using our site, understand that it is your responsibility to select the professional you are interested in working with. Any contract or agreement you have with a contractor is between you and the company you select and does not involved our program. By using our website, you agree that should you have a dispute with any company, you must address such dispute directly with the business that performed the work. You also agree to release C. David Venture Management, LLC (and our officers, directors, affiliates, directors, affiliates, employees, and agents) from any damages or claims arising out of or in any way connected with such disputes.

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Siding Contractors