Time to harvest onions in the garden – Brownwood Bulletin

When trying to produce bulb onions in Texas, many gardeners get more flowers than large onions. If onion seed are planted too early or transplants and sets are used in the fall so that they grow too large before winter, the plants form flowers or bolt when temperatures rise in the spring.

Bolting is more prevalent after a mild winter. Acting like a biological computer, the larger-than-pencil-sized onion plant adds up all of the hours of exposure to temperatures of 40 to 45. When this sum equals that total needed for flower initiation, bolting begins. This process is called vernalization.

Fall-seeded and transplanted onions are more susceptible to bolting the following spring if warm fall temperatures promote excessive growth. Use bulbs with flower stalks early because they will not make bulbs as large as plants which have not formed seed stems.

Also formation of the flower stem, whether removed or not, has occurred in the center of the onion bulb. When an onion which has initiated one of these flower stems is stored, the stem tissue decomposes, causing the entire onion to rot. Onions tolerate temperatures well below freezing. They may be planted from seed, from small bulbs called sets or from transplants. If sets or transplants are used, plant them 3/4 inch deep and 3 inches apart. Do not transplant onions more than 1 inch deep. When seeding onions, plant them 1/4 inch deep.

Because onions are a cool-season vegetable, they grow best during mild temperatures. High temperatures slow vegetative (leaf) growth. The objective is to promote maximum growth in the spring when temperatures rise above 40 to 50 range but before the weather gets hot. In South and Central Texas, plant seed of short-day onions such as 1015Y (Texas A&M Supersweet), Yellow Granex (known as Vidalia), Grano 502 (yellow), White Granex or Crystal Wax (white) and Burgundy (red) directly into the garden during October or November or wait until February and set out plants.

Newer varieties have come out as well. Seeds sown directly into the garden and covered with 1/4 inch of soil should sprout within 7 to 10 days. If planted thickly, pull the plants and use as green onions or scallions for salads or fresh eating in 8 to 10 weeks. For larger bulbs, thin the plants until they are at least 3 inches apart to allow for bulb expansion. Fertilizing onion plants is also vital to success.

Research indicates that onion growth and yield are greatly enhanced by banding phosphorus about 2 to 3 inches below the seed at planting time. The phosphorus acts as a starter solution which invigorates the growth of young seedlings. Banding phosphorus such as super phosphate (0-20-0) 2 to 3 inches below the seed involves making a trench 3 inches deep, pouring cup of super phosphate per 10 row feet, covering with about 2 inches of soil, sowing seed and covering lightly with 1/4 to inch of soil. Once established, give onion plants additional fertilizer 19-5-9 as a side application every 4 weeks. Sidedress with ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) if soil is already high in phosphorus and potassium.

This fertilizer encourages larger plants. Each leaf forms a ring in the onion bulb. More leaves mean more rings and larger onion bulbs. Use about cup of the fertilizer for each 10 feet of onion row. Scatter the fertilizer evenly between the rows and water. Weeds are easy to remove when they are 3 to 4 inches tall. When hoeing weeds and grass, do not work the soil too deeply for it may damage shallow roots.

When possible always hand pull weeds to avoid root damage. Onions may be picked as green onions from the time they are pencil size until they begin to form bulbs. For dry bulb onions, let plants grow larger. Onions are mature when the top of the plant falls over. Physically breaking over the top of onion plants does not increase bulb size. When harvesting bulb onions, loosen the plants in the soil by pulling gently. Let them stay in the garden for 1 or 2 days to dry. Then remove the tops and roots and let them continue drying in baskets or boxes. Green onions can be harvested and used immediately. Green onions may be eaten fresh or can be chopped and added to salads. Bulb onions may be sliced or diced and used in many recipes or they may be dipped in batter and fried as onion rings.

Fertilizing the lawn

Fertilizing is not so one size fits all as we would sometimes like for it to be. Every environment is different with its own expectations, use, history, and needs. Remember that the health of your turfgrass is heavily dependent on the soil it is being grown on. Look for a custom approach that is specifically catered to your turfgrass area. Start by testing your soil. For information on soil testing, visit the Soil, Water, and Forage Testing Laboratory website: http://soiltesting.tamu.edu/ or contact the Brown County Extension Office for more information.

Soil tests will give you a feel for some of the characteristics of your soil that are important for growing healthy plants including soil pH, soil salinity, and the relative abundance of the major nutrients your turfgrass needs to survive. While there are approximately 18 plant essential nutrients, primarily, we focus on a select few: nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium (N-P-K) are the three primary macronutrients that are available in most fertilizer products.

The analysis or grade on the fertilizer bag is indicative of the ratio of (N, P, and K). So, a product with a grade of 15-5-10 has a 3-1-2 ratio of these nutrients. A 3-1-1 or 3-1-2 ratio fertilizer is usually recommended for home lawns in our area.

Other elements commonly looked at by urban soil tests include calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, zinc, manganese, copper, boron, and sodium. Sodium testing is conducted to shed light on soil quality as opposed to plant nutritional needs. Every element, or nutrient, has a key part to play and balance is important. Too much or too little of any one essential nutrient can have a negative effect on your turfgrass and its overall wellbeing.

It is possible to apply fertilizers at inappropriate times. Nitrogen, in particular, should be applied only during months of active growth. As a guide, use the first and last frost dates for your part of the state. Your first fertilizer application of the year should come approximately 4 6 weeks after the last frost date, or once the grass has been mowed at least twice. Your last fertilizer application should go out approximately 4 6 weeks before your first frost date. This will minimize winter injury and Disease risk. In our area we use March 20th as the last normal frost date.

This year however, we had a frost in early April. November 15th is our date for average first frost in the fall. Use caution when purchasing or applying combination products such as those which combine preemergent herbicides and nitrogen fertilizers, as it is often not appropriate or beneficial to apply these types of products simultaneously in a home lawn setting. Especially where yard trees are present.

Most people over fertilize their lawn. The recommended fertilizer application rate is 1lb of actual nitrogen per 1,000 sq feet of lawn. So, if you had a 50lb bag of 15-5-10 fertilizer it contains 7.5lbs of actual nitrogen. This one bag would cover 7500 sq feet of lawn.

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Time to harvest onions in the garden - Brownwood Bulletin