Finding a good contractor in Santa Rosa CA
For a high quality general contractor who can do additions, flooring siding, kitchen remodels, bath remodels and more, call 415-407-2765 and speak with Eamonn Burns of Ashfield Construction....
By: Ashfield Construction
Original post:
Finding a good contractor in Santa Rosa CA - Video
Vinyl siding replacement is definitely one of the trendy things to do these days as an excellent home renovation project. Not only that, the results are pretty dang slick and can totally make-over a homes exterior. Plus, this project is a do-it-yourselfer's dream as it's fairly easy to work with and much less expensive installing it yourself than having a contractor install it.
First let's talk about the cost as that's what most want to know up front. Vinyl siding is really inexpensive compared to other materials that are used in siding today. You can typically pick them up between $2 - $6 per square foot if your having somebody else do the job for you. Just for observational purposes, lets say average homes have between 1300 and 2500 external square feet. You could wager a guess that on the lower-end the job would cost somewhere between $2600 -$5000 and on the upper end between $7800 - $15000 all dependent on the type of material being used. One of the major positives for being able to hang the vinyl siding yourself is that you don't have to pay the overhead of the installers which is typically built into the price per square foot. This definitely makes this job much cheaper than others.
Here's a quick way to estimate your homes exterior square footage. It's a fairly simple length times width times height equation that will definitely get you close. Say for instance your home is 50 feet long, 30 feet wide and 10 feet tall. You could safely say that your home is probably around 1500 square feet. But that's not the exterior sq. footage. To get a good estimate of that, you'd simply take the height multiplied by the sum of the sides. Considering that all sides are equal here, our little equation would end up like this: 10*(50+50+30+30). Doing it this way you could feasibly say that you've got approximately 1600 exterior square feet to your home. Find this and use the figures above and you'd get a pretty fair estimate of having vinyl siding installed on your home. Don't forget about all the accessories though which should be included in an estimate from a contractor like crown molding and trim, soffit work, etc.
Vinyl's also really good because you never have to paint it like you do hardiplank. The colors actually mixed in when it's manufactured, so choose wisely. One thing to point out is that you'll typically not find too many dark colors for vinyl siding, instead you'll see a lot more earthy and lighter tones. Oh shucks, you say, you really wanted a dark blue or black to make your house disappear at night. Well, there's good reason for it, the darker colors absorb the heat which in turn makes your utility bills go higher. Since that's not a really popular choice to purposefully make your utilities cost rise, they don't manufacture it to frequently.
Another valid point with this siding is that materials matter. Cheaper is not always better. You're going to want a thick, quality vinyl siding that preferably with some form of insulation backing. If you're going to do it you might as well do it right as you'll be looking at it and reaping the benefits for quite a long time.
Maintenance is a breeze. No painting. Inspect it every once in a while when you're outside bar-b-queing or something and just see that's it all in tact. Break out the waterhose every now and then and give it a quick rinse and she'll be good as new.
Read more from the original source:
Siding Replacement - Average Cost To Replace Siding On House
tech section Computers Home Theater Mobile Personal Electronics Web eHow Now eHow Electronics TVs Cable TV DIY Cable Wiring Installation
Wesley Tucker
Wesley Tucker is a lifelong southerner whose politics are objective, whose sports are many and whose avocations range from aviation to anthropology to history and all forms of media. With a master's degree in mass communications from the University of South Carolina College of Journalism, Tucker has been a writer for more than 30 years, with work ranging from news reports to feature stories.
Cable access wiring is simple because coaxial cable (whats used for television transmission) is a single wire with insulation and an all-weather outer coating. The single wire means theres no need to worry about a wrong connection or using the wrong type of cable. Coaxial cable is the same and fittings, connections and jacks have the same specifications. If you want to wire your house for cable dont worry about getting the right kind because there is only one. You also dont have to worry about electricity or other hazards because coaxial cable carries no current.
Whether you have in-ground cable service or a satellite, the first thing to do is get the cable inside. There are two options: drill a hole or find an adequate opening. Drilling means having a special drill bit that will penetrate brick (if you have a brick home) and long enough to reach through to the interior. Most of these bits are about 10 inches long. You can also get grommets to fit around the cable to make a tight waterproof seal where the cable enters the building.
Once inside you should make an effort to make the cable as unobtrusive as possible. A black cable running across the floor doesnt look good and you dont want anyone tripping or snagging the cable. A good way to wire cable in the house is around the edge and underneath wall-to-wall carpeting. This way keeps the cable out of sight and easy to install. When the cable comes into the house, cut it about 6 inches long and crimp a threaded fitting to the end. Cable crimping tools are easily found in all hardware and electronic stores. Attach a male/male adapter to the cable end. This is a small metal fitting with threads on both sides. It is sort of a two-sided screw. Then attach your cable and run it to the cable or satellite converter box or directly to your cable ready TV.
If you bring the cable in downstairs and want it upstairs, your choices are the same: drill a hole or find an unobtrusive way to run the cable up the stairs and to the television. Carpeted stairs make this easy just like with the carpeted room installation. If not you might have to drill a hole in a wall and run the cable through the space up to the upstairs. This is done with a cable snake, another tool you can buy or rent. Its a long flexible metal probe that looks like a long thin spring. Uncoil it into the hole from the upstairs down to the hole in the downstairs wall. Attach the cable to the snake and pull up and out upstairs. Just make sure you have plenty of cable for this. Once the cable is upstairs, use the grommets to seal and make a more attractive finish to the location where the cable emerges from the wall.
Cable television brings hundreds of TV stations and better reception than can be had by using an antenna. The cable company typically...
Coaxial cable is the kind of copper cable used by cable TV companies to connect between their line and cable TV subscribers....
Since many cable companies charge extra to wire more rooms, one way of saving money is doing it yourself. The typical three-room...
Go here to read the rest:
DIY Cable Wiring Installation | eHow - eHow | How to Videos ...
Use these tips and instructions for adding new electrical wiring. Take a few minutes to read the directions thoroughly. Following these instructions can save you time and effort and ensure a safe installation.
BASIC PRINCIPLES OF GOOD WIRING
Before beginning any electrical repair, shut off the power. Remove the fuse or trip the breaker for the circuit you will be working on in your service panel. Use a neon tester to be sure the power is off. If there is any doubt, you can remove the main fuse or trip the main breaker. Remember: Removing the main fuse or tripping the main breaker will usually shut off the power to the entire house.
Electrical wires are color coded to prevent wiring errors. White wires almost always connect to other white wires or to chrome terminal screws on switches and receptacles. Some wiring devicessuch as receptaclesare back-wired by pushing the bare wire end into spring grip holes. These wiring devices are plainly labeled to show which color goes into each spring grip hole. Switches are nearly always connected into black wires in cables. The only exception is where a cable is extended, making it necessary for the white wire to play the role of the black wire. When this is necessary, the white wires should be painted black to prevent future wiring errors. Study the wiring diagram. This will help you understand the basic principles of good wiring. Also, find a good electrical how-to book. It's one book every homeowner should keep on hand for ready reference. Most home wiring is complete with either No. 14 gauge or No. 12 gauge wiring. No. 14 is the smallest wiring permitted under most codes. Always use the same size cable for a continuation of any extended wiring circuit.
CONNECT NEW WIRING TO LAST OUTLET IN CABLE
New wiring should be connected to the last outlet in a run of cable. To locate the last outlet in the run, shut off the current. Remove the cover plates from each outlet on the circuit. The last outlet in the run has wires connected to only two of the four terminal screws. The two unused terminal screws on the last receptacle serve as a starting point for wiring to a new outlet.
ATTACHING CABLE FOR NEW WIRING
Shut off the power to the circuit you will be working on at the service panel. Loosen the screws holding the receptacle in the box and remove it, as shown. Attach the the earth wire (the bare or green) to the chrome terminal. The yellow (or green in some instances) wire should be connected to the receptacle and the box maintaining the equipotential bonding on the earth system. The earth wires should only be connected to the correct screw terminals on the recepticle to the brass terminal on the receptacle and to the box, if the box is metal. Use care to match the size of the original cable. If No. 12 wire is used, continue with No. 12. If No. 14 wire is used, use No. 14 for continuing the cable. The size of the cable is usually stamped on the side of the cable. New wiring can be connected to continue the run beyond the last receptacle. Note that the new wires are pulled through knockout plugs in the back of the outlet box.
ADDING NEW WIRING FROM A JUNCTION BOX
New wiring can also be tied into a junction box, unless the wiring in the junction box is already at maximum capacity. Before tying in at a junction box, always trace the cables leading to the box to check the voltage. Be sure you are not connecting a 120-volt outlet to a run of wire providing 240 volts for larger appliances. To tie in new wiring at a junction box, first shut off the current at the service panel. Locate the main supply cable coming into the junction box from the service panel. Locate the supply wire by tracing the white wires. All white wires in the junction box will be attached to the white wire on the supply line. Knock out the unused plug on the junction box and run the new line from the box as illustrated. Be sure to use a cable clamp to secure the cable to the junction box.
Read more:
How to Install Electrical Wiring | DoItYourself.com
Unsure if your water heater is just on the fritz or burned out all together? Here are some tips to help you troubleshoot your water heater.
There are two types of conventional water heaters, gas and electric. An electric water heater can be used almost anywhere. A gas water heater is most likely to be installed in a home that already uses gas for another appliance such as a furnace or stove. Building codes may dictate the placement of gas water heaters, restricting them to areas outside of normal home activity.
It is likely if you are replacing a water heater, you'll simply replace it with the same type of unit that was already there. However, there are upgrade possibilities that should be considered. For example: if space allows, you may choose to increase the unit's holding capacity to accommodate your growing family. Another important consideration is the unit's energy efficiency. Replacement time is the perfect time to lower your energy bill by choosing a water heater that is more energy efficient.
When looking for a water heater, consider these features:
Before making any repairs or purchasing a new water heater, check the nameplate on the side of your current unit. Here you will find helpful information including the tank capacity, insulation R-value, installation guidelines, working pressure, model and serial number. If you have an electric water heater, the nameplate will also list the wattage capacity and voltage of the heating elements.
This information will serve as the starting point in your search for replacement parts, or a complete replacement unit. For an overview on the types of water heaters available, read our Water Heater Buying Guide.
If you choose to replace an electric unit for a gas unit-or vice versa bring in a professional to do the job. Installing or removing gas lines is not a project for the DIYer.
The water heater gets quite a workout in most homes. Based on manufacturer's suggested service life, the life expectancy of a water heater is about 8 to 12 years. That, of course, will vary with the severity of local weather, the unit design, quality of installation and the level of maintenance your unit has received.
If your water heater is more than 10 years old, leaks around the base of the tank, and / or works erratically or not at all, it probably needs to be replaced. In any case, make sure that an electrical problem such as a blown fuse or tripped breaker is not the reason for the unit's failure.
Common Problems
Read more here:
When to Replace a Water Heater - Lowe's
One of the most common household plumbing projects is replacing a water heater. Many potential dangers can result from improper water heater installation. Be sure to check your local codes. Use only the procedures and materials your code allows. This booklet covers replacement of natural gas, LP gas and electric water heaters, the most common types.
The most common overhead-plumbed water heater hookup is shown. Before your can connect the new heater, the old one must be removed.
First, turn off the gas or electricity to the heater.
Next, drain the heater. Open a hot water faucet to allow air into the system.
On a gas heater, separate the vent pipe from the draft hood. The hood should lift off after you remove the sheet metal screw that holds it. After checking that the pilot light is out, disconnect the gas line at the heater and cap it.
Next, remove the heater from its water piping. If the pipes are connected with unionsremovable threaded fittingstake them apart with a pair of pipe wrenches. Pipes without unions must be hack-sawed off. A pipe/tubing cutter will also do the job. The old heater can now be removed and disposed of in an approved manner.
Move your new heater to its location by "walking" it or by using an appliance cart, dolly, or hand truck.
Position the new heater so your pipingparticularly a gas vent pipewill reach easily.
Excerpt from:
Replacing a Water Heater | DoItYourself.com
Digging a hole is the first step in installing a backyard fountain.
Garden pots and preformed flexible pond liners make it easy to add a water fountain to any patio or garden area. Fountains can either spray water in patterns through a nozzle or bubble and cascade the water, dropping it into the reservoir below. Regardless of the type of fountain you choose, you will need a submersible pump and a nearby source of electricity with a ground-fault interrupt (GFI) outlet.
Locate the fountain within safe reach of a GFI electrical outlet. Using a shovel, dig a trench between the outlet and the fountain, deep enough to accommodate PVC pipe to hold the electrical cord.
Dig a hole to fit a 5-gallon bucket snugly inside the hole with the bucket lip rising one inch above ground level. Cut a one-half-inch-wide slit in the lip of the bucket with a knife or hand saw, allowing enough room for the pump cord to pass through. Place the clean bucket in the hole.
Place a mark in the center of a 12- to 14-inch saucer. Drill a hole at the mark, using a three-quarter-inch drill bit, for flexible water tubing. Drill six holes in the bottom of the saucer to allow the water to escape back into the bucket. Drill six holes in the bottom of a 12- to 14-inch pot.
Rinse out the pot and the saucer to remove any dust and debris. Rinse river rock to remove dust that might clog the submersible pump. Place the pump on a clean brick inside the bucket. Pull the pump cord through the slit in the bucket.
Attach the flexible tubing to the pump. Thread the tubing from the pump through the center hole in the bottom of the saucer. Fill the bucket with water and place the saucer on top of it.
Thread the tubing through the center hole of the pot. Set the pot on the saucer and fill it with river rock to hold the tubing upright. Cut the tubing so that the fountain spout is even with the rim of the pot. Attach the fountain nozzle to the end of the tubing.
Based in Atlanta, Valerie Liles has been writing about landscape and garden design since 1980. As a registered respiratory therapist, she also has experience in family health, nutrition and pediatric and adult asthma managment. Liles holds a Bachelor of Arts in journalism from Colorado State University and a Master of Science in technical communication from the University of Colorado.
Thank you for providing feedback to our Editorial staff on this article. Please fill in the following information so we can alert the Home Guides editorial team about a factual or typographical error in this story. All Fields are required.
View post:
How to Install a Water Fountain | Home Guides | SF Gate
Read these 14 Installing a Fountain Tips tips to make your life smarter, better, faster and wiser. Each tip is approved by our Editors and created by expert writers so great we call them Gurus. LifeTips is the place to go when you need to know about Fountains tips and hundreds of other topics.
Avid garden enthusiasts dig into installing complicated in ground garden pond fountains and intricate landscaping schemes. For those who prefer a more simplistic approach for a beautiful backyard setting, free-standing fountains, statuary fountains, bamboo fountains and patio tabletop or wall mounted fountains offer almost instant sensory appeal to an outdoor setting with minimal installation time and labor.
Picture sipping a glass of wine or cup of coffee or tea in a tranquil Zen-like garden with a bamboo fountain. Water creates a soothing background, flowing trough the bamboo chutes and into a bowl of natural river stones. Installation involves minimal assembly, filling the basin with water and plugging it into a GFI electrical outlet. Add elegance to any garden setting with a statuary fountain. Introduce the rich patina of a three to nine leaf sculpted copper fountain to a sunroom or covered patio. Fill, plug in and enjoy. Or, install a custom water fountain and treat patients or customers in a waiting area to a soothing respite from the clamor of the outside world.
If you're purchasing a tabletop fountain, it should come with its own pump. However, if you're planning to make your own fountain, you'll have to find your own pump. So what things do you have to consider when you get a pump for a homemade tabletop fountain?
Because of the size and composition of an outdoor fountain, you want to make sure that you position it in a sturdy location. You don't want to face the problem of a fountain that could suffer damage or injure someone around it. That's why we've put together a few things for you to consider to get your outdoor fountain on steady footing.
When you install an outdoor fountain -- unless you have a solar version -- you'll need to supply power to the pump. We've got a few guidelines to help make sure your task of running electricity to your outdoor fountain goes smoothly.
When building a round fountain, you'll want to locate placement of the fountain's central feature. If you're wondering what the best way to do this is, we have one idea that'll ease your dilemma.
Once you've dug your pit and laid out the pond liner, tie string to stakes at the perimeter of your pit. You should have two strings running perpendicular to each other. The result would be that your pit would be divided into four equal pies. The intersection in the middle would be the center point of your fountain.
You can mark the center without damaging your pond lines. Simply attach a PVC pipe to a small piece of wood and you have your center point at the base of the pit.
Installation may be as simple as unpacking, adding water and plugging the water fountain to a power supply or letting Mother Nature provide solar power. Other water fountains, require wall support, landscape expertise, plumbing or electrical service. Shop with an online water fountain retailer that specializes in all types of water fountains, custom fountains and water fountain accessories and parts. Contact customer service. Ask lots of questions and rely on their recommendations to help choose the best fountain for your needs and preferences.
Continue reading here:
Installing a Fountain - Fountains Tips
A fountain adds grace, beauty and serenity to almost any setting. It can also be a surprisingly low-cost home improvement. iStockphoto.com/Bruce Shippee
Is there anything more relaxing than the quiet, steady burble of flowing water? Large or small, indoors or out, a fountain adds grace, beauty and serenity to almost any setting. It can also be a surprisingly low-cost home improvement.
Installing a fountain can involve as much or as little work as you want. You can work from a kit that assembles all the components for you (although you'll lose some flexibility in terms of design). Or, once you understand how the different components fit together, you can construct your own fountain from available materials -- including the earth in your backyard.
But first things first: you should know what you're getting into. Different fountains work best in different places -- tables, walls, floors, patios, gardens. No amount of tinkering will make your table strong enough to support a floor fountain, or keep the end result from looking awkward as well as unstable. And no table fountain will look anything but diminutive if you install it on a floor. Look around to find a fountain in the appropriate scale for your setting. Think about materials -- stone, slate, bamboo, granite -- that will coordinate with the rest of your decor.
As you choose the location for your fountain, keep in mind that a fountain needs a power source. Some outdoor fountains have solar panels, but the rest will need to be within reach of electricity. Outdoor fountains also need seasonal maintenance, so make sure you choose a relatively accessible spot.
This article explores the different types of fountains in more detail. We'll also look at the plans and tools you should have on hand before you delve into the installation process.
View post:
TLC "How to Install a Fountain" - HowStuffWorks "Learn How ...
Installing an outdoor water fountain is much more difficult than installing a small interior fountain, right? Yes, but it may not be as difficult as you anticipate. It will take a weekends amount of time and you may need some help from friends and family. Nevertheless, it is doable. Here are a few steps involved in the process.
Outdoor fountains that are built directly into the ground have a natural appearance and, by nature, an unstructured feel to them. One of the most challenging aspects of this assignment will be in gathering up materials. You will need a main stone feature to create the waterfall element, as well as a re-circulating pump, which moves the water and keeps it fresh. Ordinary land areas cannot hold water so you will need plastic tubing and pond liner to create the pond. Other items may include river rocks, a metal grate and a container. Some stores will sell all material together as a kit, though you can also buy your own materials and get your choice of products. There are fountain reservoirs that can be buried in the ground instead of using pond liner and wooden kits. Some of these reservoir kits include a top screen which can hold rocks or river stones to decorate the fountain. These units allow the option of using above or below ground for a unique installation.
Before installing anything you will have to dig a hole inside the ground. The hole must be large enough for the pond liner and the wooden frame. When you are finished digging and measuring put the frame and liner inside the hole. The next step in building an outdoor fountain is to connect the pump to the water feature. This is where the tubing comes in. The pump goes inside the hole. The feature must go on the concrete pedestal and then topped with a galvanized grate. Now you can fill the hole with water. The grate sticks out so cover it over with some rocks.
When building your own outdoor fountain remember that the fountain must be level in order to work correctly. What you do want to avoid is putting the fountain anywhere near a wood or carpet surface (such as you might find indoors or in a patio area) You will need an outdoor power socket along with a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter for protection. You should have a hole sticking out in the bottom pond area, close by the tube. Push the cord through until it exits on the backside. You want to make sure and plug the pump into the outlet only after you add the water and it is completely submerged.
When building outdoor water fountains, be careful to not overflow the pond area. You will occasionally need to refill the pond because of evaporation. Always keep the pump under the water. Outdoor water fountains are a great deal of fun, especially when you start experimenting with LED lights and foggers!
Tags: Garden Fountains, Installation, Outdoor Fountains
Category: Fountain Installation Tips
See the original post:
How to Install an Outdoor Fountain - Kinetic Fountains
