Home Builder Developer - Interior Renovation and Design

Family-Owned & Operated Fence Company

Challenger Fence Inc. is a fully-licensed and insured company that is family-owned and operated. We work to construct and install fences for New Jersey residents, and have been doing so for more than 10 years.

As a fence company in North NJ, our fencing services include vinyl/PVC fencing, chain-link fencing and aluminum fencing. Each type of fencing that we offer comes in different styles, colors and designs, so that you have a unique fence displayed on your property.

The fences that we offer will provide your property with not only a beautiful addition, but will also drastically improve the safety and privacy of your yard and home. We are very invested in each project that we take on, and guarantee customer satisfaction with the finished product.

With the promise of quality installations, competitive pricing and excellent customer service, your property will only benefit from the work that is done by the professionals at Challenger Fence Inc.

Call us today at 973-772-2593 for a free estimate for all of your fence construction and installation needs. Contact us to begin your journey to making your home more secure and more beautiful with our fence company in North NJ!

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Challenger Fence Inc. - Fence Company NJ | Fence Company North NJ

A fence is a freestanding structure designed to restrict or prevent movement across a boundary. Fences are generally distinguished from walls by the lightness of their construction and their purpose. Walls are usually barriers made from solid brick or concrete, blocking vision as well as passage, while fences are used more frequently to provide visual sectioning of spaces.

Alternatives to fencing include a ditch (sometimes filled with water, forming a moat).

A balustrade or railing is a kind of fence to prevent people from falling over the edge, for example, on a balcony, stairway (see railing system), roof, bridge, or elsewhere near a body of water, places where people stand or walk and the terrain is dangerously inclined.

The following types of areas or facilities often are required by law to be fenced in, for safety and security reasons:

Fences can be the source of bitter arguments between neighbours, and there are often special laws to deal with these problems. Common disagreements include what kind of fence is required, what kind of repairs are needed, and how to share the costs.

In some legislatures the standard height of a fence is limited, and to exceed it a special permit is required.

Servitudes[2] are legal arrangements of land use arising out of private agreements. Under the feudal system, most land in England was cultivated in common fields, where peasants were allocated strips of arable land that were used to support the needs of the local village or manor. By the sixteenth century the growth of population and prosperity provided incentives for landowners to use their land in more profitable ways, dispossessing the peasantry. Common fields were aggregated and enclosed by large and enterprising farmerseither through negotiation among one another or by lease from the landlordto maximize the productivity of the available land and contain livestock. Fences redefined the means by which land is used, resulting in the modern law of servitudes.[3]

In the United States, the earliest settlers claimed land by simply fencing it in. Later, as the American government formed, unsettled land became technically owned by the government and programs to register land ownership developed, usually making raw land available for low prices or for free, if the owner improved the property, including the construction of fences. However, the remaining vast tracts of unsettled land were often used as a commons, or, in the American West, "open range" As degradation of habitat developed due to overgrazing and a tragedy of the commons situation arose, common areas began to either be allocated to individual landowners via mechanisms such as the Homestead Act and Desert Land Act and fenced in, or, if kept in public hands, leased to individual users for limited purposes, with fences built to separate tracts of public and private land.

Ownership of a fence on an ownership boundary varies. Generally title deeds will show which side owns the fence, using a "T" symbol (the leg of the "T" points towards the owner). Commonly the cladding is on non-owners side, enabling access to the posts for the owner when repairs are needed.

Where a fence or hedge has an adjacent ditch, the ditch is normally in the same ownership as the hedge or fence, with the ownership boundary being the edge of the ditch furthest from the fence or hedge.[4] The principle of this rule is that an owner digging a boundary ditch will normally dig it up to the very edge of their land, and must then pile the spoil on their own side of the ditch to avoid trespassing on their neighbour. They may then erect a fence or hedge on the spoil, leaving the ditch on its far side. Exceptions often occur, for example where a plot of land derives from subdivision of a larger one along the centre line of a previously-existing ditch or other feature.

Original post:
Fence - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Attention Electricians and Systems Licensees: Is your license lapsed?

Your license is considered "lapsed" if you did not complete your mandatory continuing education (MCE) classes and you did not pay your renewal fee prior to July 31, 2013. A "lapsed" license means that your license has expired and that you cannot practice at this time.

To renew a license in "lapsed" status, you must first complete your MCEs. To sign up for MCE classes, please contact an approved provider from our List of Mandatory Continuing Education Providers or view the Calendar of Scheduled MCE Classes . Following the successful completion of your MCEs, the Board will send a license renewal application to your address of record. Upon receipt of the renewal application, please complete it and return it to the Board with the appropriate payment. Please be advised that if you did not complete your MCEs prior to July 31, 2013, you may be required to pay a late fee in addition to the standard renewal fee.

For more information on MCE requirements, please consult the Boards regulations, 237 CMR 17.01(3) or visit the "Continuing Education " page of the Boards website.

Continued here:
Board of State Examiners of Electricians

Re: Grid tie inverter question Posted by gfretwell: It was more of a theoretical question but in any serious emergency, "feeding the monster" (fuel) is far from a trivial task. Proper transfer equipment is going to be needed for the generator anyway so any "field engineering" will not be attached to the grid. This would be used in lieu of the (...) Re: Dimmer panel Posted by gfretwell: The problem is the .7v drop across the triac. A 1kw load is 8.33a and that is close to 6 watts. (more than the old style C7 Christmas light bulb) It might be worse if there are other inefficiencies in there. With a decent finned heat sink, that is not a problem but a bunch of them in a closed (...) Re: Ontario electrical incident reports Posted by dougwells: I like how ESA have a facebook page and are also on Twitter, unlike our BCSA Re: Re: HVAC Posted by Tesla: For the record...

I've seen floor sanders stick bare, naked, stranded #8 into dryer receptacles to power up their Hummels. (belt style floor sander - Germany)

I had to ask:"Since the 30A 240VAC circuit is used time and again, why aren't you just using a dryer pigtail to Hubbel twist lock (...)

On their (typically unfused) secondary side one wire is normally 'anchored' to ground whenever a floating neutral must be shunned. (It's not at all unusual for these circuits to 'float' -- not being grounded at (...)

I've done my share of 'scaffold surfing' and almost splashed down, but saved by two guys walking by. Surfing in other than a pristine clean floor is not a good thing.

I agree with Tesla, a Baker scaffold makes a great work platform as (...)

OK, I see now what he is referring to. I missed the previous post and I can see how this was a specific design.

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Electrical Contractor, Licensed & Master Electricians Network

The National Electrical Code (NEC), or NFPA 70, is a regionally adoptable standard for the safe installation of electrical wiring and equipment in the United States. The NEC, while having no legally binding regulation as written, can be and often is adopted by states, municipalities and cities in an effort to standardize their enforcement of safe electrical practices within their respective jurisdiction. In some cases, the NEC is amended, altered and may even be rejected in lieu of regional regulations as voted on by the governing bodies of any given locale.

The NEC codifies the requirements for safe electrical installations into a single, standardized source. It is part of the National Fire Codes series published by the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), and while not itself a U.S. law, NEC use is commonly mandated by state or local law.[1]

The "authority having jurisdiction" inspects for compliance with these minimum standards.[2][3]

("National Electrical Code" and "NEC" are registered trademarks of the NFPA.)

The NEC is developed by NFPA's Committee on the National Electrical Code, which consists of 19 [20 in 2008] code-making panels and a technical correlating committee. Work on the NEC is sponsored by the National Fire Protection Association. The NEC is approved as an American national standard by the American National Standards Institute (ANSI). It is formally identified as ANSI/NFPA 70.

First published in 1897, the NEC is updated and published every three years. The 2011 NEC is the current edition (effective date August 25, 2010). Most states adopt the most recent edition within a couple of years of its publication. As with any "uniform" code, a few jurisdictions regularly omit or modify some sections, or add their own requirements (sometimes based upon earlier versions of the NEC, or locally accepted practices). However, the NEC is the least amended model code, even with it setting minimum standards. No court has faulted anyone for using the latest version of the NEC, even when the local code was not updated.

In the U.S., anyone, including the city issuing building permits, may face a civil liability lawsuit (be sued) for negligently creating a situation that results in loss of life or property. Those who fail to adhere to well known best practices for safety have been held negligent. This means that the city should adopt and enforce building codes that specify standards and practices for electrical systems (as well as other departments such as water and fuel-gas systems). This creates a system whereby a city can best avoid lawsuits by adopting a single, standard set of building code laws. This has led to the NEC becoming the de facto standard set of electrical requirements. A licensed electrician will have spent years of apprenticeship studying and practicing the NEC requirements prior to obtaining his or her license.

The NEC also contains information about the official definition of HAZLOC and the related standards given by the Occupational Safety and Health Administration and dealing with hazardous locations such as explosive atmospheres.

The NEC is available as a bound book containing approximately 1000 pages. It has been available in electronic form since the 1993 edition. Although the code is updated every three years, some jurisdictions do not immediately adopt the new edition.

The NEC is also available as a restricted, digitized coding model that can be read online but not saved, copied and pasted, or printed, free of charge on certain computing platforms that support the restricted viewer software.

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National Electrical Code - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Welcome to the Electrician Talk - Professional Electrical Contractors Forum. If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. Forum Last Post Threads Posts Electrical Forum

Open electrical discussion.

The business of contracting discussed here. Everything from starting up a new business to expanding a successful one.

All chapters including General, Wiring and Protection, Wiring Methods and Materials, Equipment for General Use, Special Occupancies, Special Equipment, Special Conditions, and Communication Systems.

UL Standards, BICSI and TIA/EIA Standards, and Building, Fire, and Health Codes for Electricians.

Primary and Secondary linework discussed here.

Residential and Commercial Lighting Design.

Residential and Commerical Services and Service Equipment.

Phone, Data, CATV / Video, Distributed Music, Paging & Call Boxes.

Discussions include PLCs hardware and programming, VFDs, troubleshooting Motors and Controls, instrumentation and Analog controls, Robotics, and Industrial electronics.

Originally posted here:
Electrician Talk - Professional Electrical Contractors Forum

Read these tips and instructions on how to install drywall. Following these instructions can help you to save time and effort and end up with a neater job. Inside this document you will find information about: Estimating Materials Needed Advance Planning for Drywall Installation Cutting Drywall Vertical or Horizontal Installations Applying Drywall to the Ceiling Wall Application of Drywall Finishing Touches

ESTIMATING MATERIALS NEEDED

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For example, if your room measures 14x16, this equals 14' + 14' + 16' + 16' = 60 or 15 wallboards required. To allow for areas such as windows, doors, fireplaces, etc., use the deductions listed below: deductions for each: door : 1/3 wallboard (A) window : 1/4 wallboard (B) fireplace : 1/2 wallboard (C) The actual number of wallboards for this room would be 13 pieces (15 pieces minus 2 total deductions). Always use the next highest number of wallboards when the perimeter total is between ranges shown in the table. These figures are for rooms with 8' ceiling heights or less.

ADVANCE PLANNING FOR DRYWALL INSTALLATION

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How to Install Drywall | DoItYourself.com

Cutting Drywall Lay the piece down (unfinished side down) on a flat clean surface free of anything that could damage the drywall. Measure your piece and place marking where the cut is to be made. It is often helpful to make a mark along the entire length of your cut. Always make your pieces a little smaller (1/8" to 1/4" less) than you measured to account for extra gypsum on the edges and lack of square-ness. Also, cut pieces so there is a 1/4" gap at the floor to prevent moisture or water absorption at the floor level (especially on concrete). Place your T-square so that the square rests on top of the piece you will be using. This insures that if your knife strays, it will not damage your piece. Firmly hold the T-square in place. I like to use one hand and a knee. Make your cut. You only have to break the surface of the paper and cut slightly into the gypsum. Tip your piece up so that you can apply pressure to the opposite side of the cut. The sheet should then snap and fold. I like to have my sheet standing on end with the cut running vertically if possible. You need to then cut the paper at the fold. The two pieces will snap apart. Be careful not to have the pieces rip apart with one taking paper off the other.

Installing Drywall - Drywall Installation Tips

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Drywall Installation - Cutting and Installing Drywall

Drywall (also known as plasterboard, wallboard, gypsum board, sheetrock, or gyprock) is a panel made of gypsum plaster pressed between two thick sheets of paper. It is used to make interior walls and ceilings. Drywall construction became prevalent as a speedier alternative to traditional lath and plaster.[1]

In many places, the product is sold under the trademarks Sheetrock[2] or Gyproc.[3][4][5] In New Zealand the category is known as "plasterboard" or "gib board" (originally "Gibraltar board"), the latter being a proprietary brand name but now largely a genericised trademark.[6][7][8][9]

The first plasterboard plant in the UK was opened in 1888 in Rochester Kent.[citation needed]Sackett Board was invented in 1894 by Augustine Sackett and Fred Kane. It was made by layering plaster within four plies of wool felt paper. Sheets were 36" 36" 1/4" thick with open (untaped) edges.[10]

Gypsum Board evolved between 1910 and 1930 beginning with wrapped board edges, and elimination of the two inner layers of felt paper in favor of paper-based facings. In 19109 United States Gypsum Corporation bought Sackett Plaster Board Company and by 1917 came out with a product they called sheetrock.[11] Providing efficiency of installation, it was developed additionally as a measure of fire resistance.[12] Later air entrainment technology made boards lighter and less brittle, then joint treatment materials and systems also evolved.[10]

Rock Lath was an early substrate for plaster. An alternative to traditional wood or metal lath, it was a panel made up of compressed gypsum plaster board that was sometimes grooved or punched with holes to allow wet plaster to key into its surface. As it evolved, it was faced with paper impregnated with gypsum crystals that bonded with the applied facing layer of plaster.[13]

A wallboard panel is made of a paper liner wrapped around an inner core made primarily from gypsum plaster. The raw gypsum, CaSO42 H2O, (mined or obtained from flue-gas desulfurization (FGD)) must be calcined before use to produce the hemihydrate of calcium sulfate (CaSO4 H2O). This is done in kettle or flash calciners, typically using natural gas today. The plaster is mixed with fiber (typically paper and/or fiberglass), plasticizer, foaming agent, finely ground gypsum crystal as an accelerator, EDTA, starch or other chelate as a retarder, various additives that may decrease mildew and increase fire resistance (fiberglass or vermiculite), wax emulsion or silanes for lower water absorption and water. This is then formed by sandwiching a core of wet gypsum between two sheets of heavy paper or fiberglass mats. When the core sets and is dried in a large drying chamber, the sandwich becomes rigid and strong enough for use as a building material.

Drying chambers typically use natural gas today. To dry 1 MSF ( 1,000 square feet (93m2) ) of wallboard, between 1.75 and 2.49 million BTU is required. Organic dispersants/plasticisers are used mainly to reduce the amount of water, hence reduce the eventual drying time, needed to produce gypsum slurry flow during wallboard manufacture.[14]

Drywall panels are manufactured in 48-inch (1.2m) and 96-inch (2.4m) wide panels in varying lengths to suit the application. Common panel thicknesses are 12-inch (13mm) and 58-inch (16mm), with panels also available in 14-inch (6.4mm) and 38-inch (9.5mm). Both 12-inch and 58-inch panels of Type X (a gypsum board with special core additives to increase the natural fire resistance of regular gypsum board[15]) are used where a fire-resistance rating is desired. Sound transmission may be slightly reduced using regular 58-inch panels (with or without light-gauge resilient metal channels) but more effective are using two layers of drywall sometimes in combination with other factors or specially designed, sound-resistant drywall.[16]

Drywall provides a thermal resistance R-value (in US units) of 0.32 for 38-inch board, 0.45 for 12-inch, 0.56 for 58-inch, and 0.83 for 1-inch board. In addition to increased R-value, thicker drywall has a higher sound transmission class.[citation needed]

In Europe plasterboard is manufactured in metric sizes, with the common sizes being corollaries of old imperial sizes.

Continue reading here:
Drywall - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

We are a professional hardscaping company servicing the central New Jersey area. With a considerable number of years of experience behind us and many satisfied clients after, we offer you thoroughly professional and expert services in hardscaping and landscaping.

We are in the business of regularly installing interlocking pavers, patio and driveway pavers etc. Each and every project undertaken by us is considered to be unique by us and is given our full commitment.

We have the workmen and the masonry expertise to install any manufacturers pavers, be it brick pavers or stone pavers. We have perfected the art of laying down stones or brick pavers and our designers will work with you to create the most stunning and durable patios, walkways or driveways. Since we own all types of equipment necessary for these projects including excavation equipment, we save time and money.

Once the hardscape is finalized we can help with garden landscaping which is also within our specialization. We have experienced landscape designers who have the knowledge to design and install plants to complement your overall landscape. Your landscape can be enhanced with the addition of ponds or rock waterfalls or fountains; we are fully equipped to carry out any design process.

We can help give a totally new look to your pool side by either upgrading your pool landscape or going in for complete renovation, if so desired. A few cleverly placed accents here and there or a newly paved walkway leading to the pool side can work miracles and at minimum costs.

From design to construction, we take care of it all and at very competitive rates. We do not believe in inflating our prices to make a quick buck. We are not looking at short-term gains but at long-standing relationships with our clients based on mutual trust. To this effect we strive to do our best and it is always our endeavor to keep alive the trust reposed in us.

We do not step out of the parameters laid down by you concerning designing or budgeting unless it is with your express consent. We respect your time as well as ours and our projects do not take more time than necessary. Our crew is vouched for not only but ourselves but also by our satisfied customers, whose testimonials you are welcome to see. We are not into slipshod work or hastily-competed jobs. Whatever we undertake is finished to your satisfaction and ours.

Open communication, timely completion of projects and personal integrity are the hallmarks of our company and we would like the opportunity to be of service to you in any of your hardscaping or landscaping projects. Thank you for taking out the time to visit us.

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Brick Paver Pros - Landscape Design NJ | Best Pavers in New Jersey