Home Builder Developer - Interior Renovation and Design

We provide forestry mulching land clearing services.Forestry Mulching is the most effective way to clear your property or large land parcel. You do not need to haul away or create burn piles of brush and trees. Hauling and burning the brush and trees is almost always more expensive and takes more time than using forestry mulching. Our mulching service is an eco-friendly and cost-effective solution for your land clearing needs. One of the benefits of mulching is it leaves topsoil in place and adds valuable nutrients while also preventing erosion. Our mulching machine can remove and mulch trees up to 12 in diameter. Powered by a 100HP turbo diesel it shreds the vegetation in its path. Blackberries, Scotch Broom, Alder Trees, Fir Trees, Vine Maple, rotten logs and stumps, Hazelnut / Filbert, Salal, even down to grass.

Our services are available in the greater Puget Sound area of Washington State including Lewis, Mason, Pierce, South King, and Thurston counties.

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All Things Dirt Excavating and Landscaping, Inc. | an eco ...

4.0 CLEARING METHODS

4.1 For clearing standing timber, the method used shall be the walk-down and pile; the uprooting and pile; or the cutting and pile method.

4.2 For clearing clear-cut areas, the method used shall be the grubbing and piling; the grubbing, piling, and turning; or the heavy moldboard plow or heavy breaking disc method.

4.3 For clearing light growth and ground brush, the method used shall be the grubbing and piling; the rotary or flail mower; the heavy moldboard or breaking disc; or the rotary plow method.

4.4 Whatever the clearing method used, debris piles shall be topsoil and mud free (maximum allowance of 10%) and well packed to ensure that they can be easily burned or loaded and hauled off the field.

4.5 Debris piles shall not be placed closer than 30 meters (100 ft) to adjacent cleared or wooded areas.

4.6 The burning method will be exempt only in designated regions where burning permits cannot be obtained and will be reviewed on a case by case basis.

5.0 CLEARING EQUIPMENT

5.1 Proper and well maintained industrial clearing equipment and skilled operators shall be used for land clearing.

5.2 Piling blades used with crawler tractors shall meet or exceed the NBDARD Piling Blade Standard.

5.3 Piling rakes used with excavators shall meet or exceed the NBDARD Piling Rake Standard.

5.4 The primary land clearing equipment shall be one of the following:

5.4.1 Crawler tractors with piling blades, cutting blades or earth blades. Cutting blades shall be used only for cutting and piling method. Earth blades shall only be used for walking-down standing timber.

5.4.2Excavator with piling rake.

5.5 Generally, auxiliary land clearing equipment shall be breaking discs and breaking plows pulled by crawler tractors.

5.6 Generally land clearing equipment used for debris cleanup operations shall be wheel rakes, power drum rakes, specialized reel head rock pickers and debris pickers powered by farm tractors.

5.7 Brush cutters (rotary brush mowers) powered by farm tractors, may be used for clearing light growth and ground brush, if normal cultivation can proceed after brush cutting.

6.0 PROJECT COMPLETION

6.1 Upon notification of project completion, the project engineer or designate will carry out final inspection and report of land clearing site.

6.2 Land clearing projects will only be consider complete if they meet these standards and work is suitable to the project engineer or designate. 7.0 REFERENCES

7.1 The Atlantic Committee on Agricultural Engineering (A.C.A.E.) Publication No. 7, 1985 - Land Clearing for Agricultural Production contains additional information on clearing rationale, methods and equipment and should be referred to prior to commencing a land clearing project.

7.2 Watercourse Alteration Guidelines issued by the N.B. Department of Environment and Local Government.

The New Brunswick Department of Agriculture, Fisheries and Aquaculture reserves the right to revise the above standard at any time.

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Land Clearing - Agriculture - gnb.ca

Land clearing and grubbinginvolves the removal of trees and brush on a piece of land. Depending on the size, location, and purpose of the land, the excavation may require professional land clearing equipment. Pushover, cut, grind and burning are three of the most used land clearing methods.

The pushover method of land clearing often involves the use of major construction equipment. The trees are pushed over and hauled off the land with the roots intact. Once the trees are moved to a central location, they are often processed for sale or ground for use as a mulching material.

The second method is cut and grind. This method begins with cutting down the trees on the piece of land. These trees are often moved to a processing location, but the stumps are left in the ground. These stumps can be ground into mulching material or pulled out of the ground using a large piece of construction machinery.

A third method involves using a controlled burn for land clearing, it can be one of the most dangerous methods. Burning involves starting a controlled fire and maintaining that fire until all trees and brush are burned to the ground. After the fires are extinguished, the land can be cleared using a bull dozer or other piece of construction equipment.

While some small plots of land may be cleared without the help of a professional, larger plots of land may be more difficult to clear without a team of specialists. This team will often be trained in the fastest and most effective methods of land clearing. They are also more likely to be trained in the local laws and regulations regarding the clearing of land.

Remember that land clearing and grubbingis the removal and disposal of all vegetation, rubbish, and surface boulders embedded in the ground. In the total preparation of the site for clear construction, land clearing also includes the removal and disposal of structures, old foundations, and abandoned underground sewers and unused structural concrete of any kind. Grubbing is the uprooting and removal of roots and stumps. Stripping is the removal and disposal of unwanted topsoil and sod.

Clearing, grubbing, and stripping are accomplished by using heavy engineering equipment. Hand-or power-felling equipment, explosives, and fire are also used. Factors that determine which method to use are: the acreage to be cleared, the type and density of vegetation, the terrains effect on the operation of equipment, the availability of equipment and personnel, and the time available for completion. For best results, a combination of methods is used in a sequence of operations.

The landowner should remember that land clearing leaves the surface layer of topsoil open to the elements and erosion. If the site is to be left for any great length of time before a project is commenced, this top layer of dirt can be preserved by planting grass in this soil. While the grass may not be needed on the entire lot, it can be easier to remove a patch of grass for development than to import new dirt, to prevent soil loss.

Clearing live trees, dead trees, shrubs and removing damaged storm water drains is all part of our land clearing services. Weve provided this service throughout Central Florida and all over Florida to clear the way for site Development including: Hiawassee Elementary School Orlando, Cheney Elementary School Orlando, Tractor Supply Deltona, Publix Supermarket Winter Park, Beck Ranch Park Sanford, Nickelodeon Suites Orlando, Wawa Port Orange, Wawa Orlando, Wawa many other Wawalocations all over Central Florida, RaceTrac Haines City and many other RaceTraclocations all over Central Florida, Walkabout Club House & Town Homes Mims, Orange County Pump Stations & Lift Station Rehabilitation, Many more.

C&C Site Development is an experienced site development company with many successful public and private projects to date. Were licensed, insured, bonded and adhere to all local, state and federal regulations when performing any and all of our Site Development Services. If youre in need of land clearing services and want an experienced firm that is going to treat your project with attention to detail whether its big or small, call C&C Site Development.

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Land Clearing and Grubbing; Part of the Site Development ...

Palm oil development is not just about the economy but also needs to consider social and environmental costs. http://www.shutterstock.com September 11, 2019

Aksel Tmte, University of Oslo

There are studies showing that farmers can have economic benefits from palm oil. However, they can also be impoverished by the commodity.

Michelle Ward, The University of Queensland; April Reside, The University of Queensland; Hugh Possingham, The University of Queensland; James Watson, The University of Queensland; Jeremy Simmonds, The University of Queensland; Jonathan Rhodes, The University of Queensland, and Martin Taylor, The University of Queensland

A staggering 7.7 million hectares of critical habitat has been destroyed since environment laws were enacted - and 93% was not referred to the federal government for assessment.

The Amazon is burning at record levels, and land clearing is to blame. The good news: we already know what we need to do to stop it.

Martine Maron, The University of Queensland; Andrea Griffin, University of Newcastle; April Reside, The University of Queensland; Bill Laurance, James Cook University; Don Driscoll, Deakin University; Euan Ritchie, Deakin University, and Steve Turton, CQUniversity Australia

A new petition is urging state and federal governments to rein in Australia's rampant land clearing, which worsens the risk of bushfires and threatens to undo the work of the Emissions Reduction Fund.

Edward Narayan, Western Sydney University

Koalas can cope with the stresses of city life provided we plan urban developments in ways that help meet their basic needs.

Philippa England, Griffith University

Queensland's new land-clearing laws are a huge missed opportunity.

Damian R. Michael, Australian National University and David Lindenmayer, Australian National University

Across large ares of Australia, rocky outcrops are being obliterated to open up more land for farming. But many of these "bush rocks" are refuges for fragile ecosystems.

Anita J Cosgrove, The University of Queensland; April Reside, The University of Queensland; James Watson, The University of Queensland, and Martine Maron, The University of Queensland

Queensland's new draft land-clearing laws aim to put the brakes on years of environmental destruction. But the bill contains several loopholes that are likely to stymie progress.

Samantha Hepburn, Deakin University

Australia's federal environment laws are inadequate to halt Australia's alarming rates of land clearing and species loss. A more robust set of laws are urgently needed.

Noel D Preece, James Cook University and Penny van Oosterzee, James Cook University

The failed attempt to reinstate land clearing regulations in Queensland has prompted 'panic clearing', pushing Australia into the global top-ten deforesters.

Brendan Wintle, University of Melbourne and Sarah Bekessy, RMIT University

The outgoing Threatened Species Commissioner has downplayed the importance of land clearing as a threat to Australia's plants and animals. But it's the biggest threat, and magnifies the others too.

Dede Rohadi, Centre for International Forestry Research

Zero-burning policy could hurt small-holder farmers. The ban on the use of fire for land clearing has raised the costs to prepare their land for planting and to keep it pest-free.

Hugh Finn, Curtin University

More than 50 million birds, mammals and reptiles are thought to be killed each year in New South Wales and Queensland by the removal of native vegetation, and planning laws are failing to protect them.

April Reside, The University of Queensland; Anita J Cosgrove, The University of Queensland; Jennifer Silcock, The University of Queensland; Leonie Seabrook, The University of Queensland, and Megan C Evans, The University of Queensland

Legal vegetation 'thinning' is contributing to high rates of land clearing, potentially causing problems for threatened species and ecosystems.

James Watson, The University of Queensland; James Allan, The University of Queensland, and Sean Maxwell, The University of Queensland

You'd hope we wouldn't flatten the pyramids to build a highway. But that's exactly what's happening to the world's natural heritage sites.

James Watson, The University of Queensland; Eve McDonald-Madden, The University of Queensland; James Allan, The University of Queensland; Kendall Jones, The University of Queensland; Moreno Di Marco, The University of Queensland, and Richard Fuller, The University of Queensland

Since 1992, an area of land two-thirds the size of Australia has been converted to human use.

Euan Ritchie, Deakin University and Brett Murphy, Charles Darwin University

Australia's Great Northern Savannas are the largest and most intact ecosystem of their kind on Earth. But they still face pressure from grazing, mining and agricultural expansion.

Clive McAlpine, The University of Queensland; Jozef Syktus, The University of Queensland, and Leonie Seabrook, The University of Queensland

Here's another reason to stop land clearing: it's making Australia hotter and drier.

Sean Maxwell, The University of Queensland; James Watson, The University of Queensland, and Richard Fuller, The University of Queensland

Climate change gets a lot of the spotlight when it comes to saving wildlife. But bigger threats remain.

Megan C Evans, The University of Queensland

Moves to tighten land-clearing laws in Queensland and New South Wales have been met with outrage from farmers. So how can we get regulation right?

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land clearing News, Research and Analysis The ...

Tim Carter, from AskTheBuilder.com, says this:

I can think of lots of do-it-yourself projects, but I have to be honest; land clearing would be either at the bottom of the list or left off on purpose.Source

We agree with Tim.

Land clearing is not for the faint of heart.

Land clearing involves, at various points, clearing brush, cutting down and hauling away large trees, digging up rocks, filling in large holes with dirt, smoothing furrows and hills, removing shrubs and small trees, and either burning, grinding, or otherwise removing the leftover stumps.

In order to accomplish all of these tasks, you will need:

Additionally, you will need tons of free time.

When you hire a land clearing company, you get your land cleared by professionals who are licensed to operate heavy machinery, are used to the type of work involved, and who have a team ready to accomplish your project in a short amount of time.

Save yourself a lot of trouble: hire a land clearing professional.

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So What Is Land Clearing, Anyway? | E-Scapes Landscaping

Whether youre looking for electrical wires, wire cables, grounding wires, building wires, electrical cables, URD wires or low voltage wires, we have lots of options to cover all of your wiring needs. When considering your wiring choices, its important to understand the differences between electrical wires and electrical cables. Be sure to choose the right electrical wires and electrical cables so you can safely power all of your devices and networks.

Electrical Wires Versus Electrical CablesAlthough the terms wire and cable are often used interchangeably, electrical wire is one electrical conductor and electrical cable, like your AC power cord, is a group of wires (or conductors), encased in sheathing. Our electrical cables and wire cables allow you to do everything from mounting that brand new flat screen TV on the wall, to purchasing coaxial cables to complete your next wiring project.

Wiring TypesThe information printed on the sides of wire indicates its THHN/THWN, material, max voltage rating and gauge. THHN wire is one of the most common types of individual wires used in residential wiring applications. We also carry NM-B wire, Cat5e wire, Cat 6 wire, UF-B wire, bare copper wiring and Romex wires. Most wiring will be marked CU for copper, the most common conductor of residential electricity. Because electricity travels on the outside of copper wire, the wiring is insulated to protect against fire and shock. Older wiring could be aluminum or copper-clad aluminum.

Let the Pros Handle Your Wiring ProjectWhile you can find everything you need at The Home Depot to complete your wiring projects safely, wiring projects can be dangerous. Our Pro Referral marketplace connects you to local independent pros who can tackle your wiring project safely and professionally so you dont have to. Here at The Home Depot, youll find everything you need to complete a safe, timely and cost efficient electrical wiring project.

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Wire - Electrical - The Home Depot

Aslan Alphan / Getty Images

It helps to understand a few basic terms used to describe wiring. An electrical wire is a type of conductor, a material that conducts electricity. In the case of household wiring, the conductor itself is usually copper or aluminum (or copper-sheathed aluminum), and is either a solid metal conductor or stranded wire. Most wires in a home are insulated, meaning they are wrapped in a nonconductive plastic coating. One notable exception is ground wires, which are typically solid copper and are either insulated with green sheathing or are uninsulated (bare).

The most common type of wiring in modern homes is in the form of nonmetallic (NM) cable, which consists of two or more individual wires wrapped inside a protective plastic sheathing. NM cable usually contains one or more hot (current-carrying) wires, a neutral wire, and a ground wire.

As an alternative to NM cable, individual wires can be installed inside of a rigid or flexible metal or plastic tubing called conduit. Conduit is typically used where wiring will be exposed and not hidden inside walls, floors, or ceilings.

These larger wires in your home are carrying circuit voltage, and they can be very dangerous to touch. There are also a number of wires in your home that carry much lesser amounts of "low-voltage" current. These are less dangerous, and with some, the voltage carried is so low that there is virtually no chance of shock. However, until you know exactly what kind of wires you are dealing with, it's best to treat them all as dangerous.

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Common Types of Electrical Wire Used in the Home

The beauty of todays smart home is that its mostly wire-free. Wireless protocols such as Zigbee, Z-Wave, Wi-Fi and Bluetooth LE have done away with the need to install complex and expensive whole-home electrical systems just to control your smart lights remotely.

In the modern smart home, all you need is a smartphone and a Wi-Fi router to unlock the power of connected devices. Most of the time.

Read this: Smart home tours a Victorian villa with connected fireplaces

There are still some key devices you are going to have to hardwire though. This is not so they can work with wireless smart home systems, but because they need to communicate with your dumb appliances, such as heating and air conditioning systems, irrigation pumps and the electrical wires running through your ceilings and walls.

If you really dont feel comfortable messing with wiring there are battery-powered versions available for some of these devices, but hooking them into your homes wiring is the best way to go if you want to get the most out of the cool, connected capabilities they offer.

Thankfully, much of the wiring is straightforward. As long as you know where your breaker box is and are handy with a drill, you probably wont need to spend big bucks on an electrician.

When selecting connected gadgets for your home, bear in mind these are the ones you are going to need to wire up:

Smart light switches

Smart wall outlets

Smart thermostats

Smart sprinkler controllers

Smart smoke alarms

Smart video doorbells

Most of todays connected devices are targeted at the consumer, meaning you can largely Do It Yourself. Some companies, including Nest and Amazon, have pro installers that will come and install their products for you, for a fee.

If you are at all uncomfortable with wiring you should use them or hire an electrician messing with electricity can be dangerous. But if you can turn off the power at the breaker, youll find that dealing with the accessible wiring in your home is simple and straightforward.

Ring and Nest supply screwdrivers to help you install their products.

The main tools youll use when wiring smart home gadget include:

a screwdriver

a drill

a level

wire strippers

needle nose pliers

wire nuts

screws

wall anchors

Many devices will come with everything you need to install them right in the box (with the exception of a drill, which is not always needed). Ring and Nest, for example, both include excellent little double-headed screwdrivers with their higher-end products.

Heres a rundown of smart home devices you will need to wire into your home, listed in order of difficulty. Weve provided simple step-by-step guidance to give you an idea of how the process will go, but in every instance, you should refer to the included installation guide (or more likely video) that comes with your product.

Smart light switches and outlets replace your existing light switches and outlets, allowing you to control what theyre connected to with an app on your smartphone, or through a smart speaker. When installed, a smart switch will control all the lighting on that circuit, and a smart outlet controls whatever is plugged into it (such as a lamp, table fan or other standalone electrical device).

Weve put these two products together because the wiring for both is almost identical. It is also one of the most involved wiring projects and may require the use of a voltage tester to identify which is a hot wire and which is a load wire.

Smart switches and wall outlets are the most complicated devices to install yourself.

1. Turn off power to your switch/outlet at the breaker (if breakers arent labeled you can turn off the master power).

2. Unscrew the wall plate and switch/outlet from the wall.

3. Disconnect existing wires from the switch/outlet by turning the wire nuts (see below) counterclockwise.

4. Remove your existing switch/outlet and place it in a box or Ziploc bag along with all screws (in case you need to put it back it later).

5. Identify the wires in your system many smart switches/outlets require a neutral wire, but not all homes will have them (if you dont have a neutral wire consult an electrician).

6. Once identified, connect the corresponding wires in your wall to the wires on the smart switch using wire nuts. These will be Line and Load wires, usually black or red, and a neutral wire (often white, sometime two fastened together and tucked away). If your Line and Load wires are the same colour, you will need to use a voltage tester to confirm which is which.

7. Push the connected wires back into the wall box as far as they will go.

8. Screw the switch/outlet into the wall box and attach any provided wall plates.

9. Turn the power back on.

Wire nuts are used to connect two or more wires together. Hold the wires you are connecting so the ends are aligned, then place a wire nut on top and twist clockwise until secure. The wires should not come out when you pull. You can also use pliers to twist the wires together before attaching the wire nut, or to straighten them out prior to attaching the nut.

Wiring a smart thermostat, like the Ecobee 4, requires a good knowledge of your HVAC system.

While the actual wiring process for a smart thermostat is very simple, getting it right is more complicated than any other DIY smart home project. This is because if its done incorrectly it could damage your HVAC system, which can be costly. Because of this, if you are not sure about your systems requirements at any point during the installation process consult a professional.

1. Turn the power to your thermostat off at the breaker.

2. Remove the faceplate from your old thermostat and photograph the wiring for reference.

3. Label your thermostat wires (most smart thermostats come with adhesive labels for doing this in the package).

4. Remove your old thermostat.

5. Using the new thermostat as a guide, mark where the screws will go, and if needed drill holes and place anchors.

6. Pull your thermostat wires through the new thermostat and attach the wires (according to the manual that comes with your new thermostat) before you attach it to the wall.

7. Screw the thermostat baseplate onto the wall.

8. Double check your wiring, put the thermostats faceplate on, and turn on the power.

Wiring up the Spruce smart irrigation controller is very straightforward.

A smart sprinkler controller replaces your standard irrigation clock. It will control your sprinkler system in the same way, by turning on the valves at scheduled times, but it can also use weather data from the internet to dynamically change your schedule and avoid watering before, during or after rain events.

The wiring process is similar to that of a thermostat, although because most sprinkler controllers are plugged in with an AC adaptor you wont need to turn off power at the breaker.

1. Photograph your existing wiring and take note of which wires correspond to which zones.

2. Unplug the existing controller and remove the wiring from it.

3. Put the wiring through the controller and mount it on the wall, drilling holes into the wall and placing drywall anchors if needed.

4. Snap the wires into the corresponding zones, put the C wire in the correct port and if you have a Master or Pump Valve consult the installation guide to determine where that wire needs to go (it differs on each model).

5. Plug in the AC adaptor (some models do not have AC power adaptors, in these cases you will need to run the power wires into the electrical box that controls your irrigation system and will need to turn off power at your breaker before you do).

6. Turn the power back on.

The Onelink Safe & Sound needs to be hardwired to power its Bluetooth speaker.

Smart versions of smoke alarms can notify you via your smartphone if they are activated. Smoke alarms come in hardwired versions or battery-powered only. Which version you need will depend on how your home is set up. If you have wiring to support smoke alarms, installing a smart one is no different from installing a regular alarm.

1. Turn power to your smoke alarms off at the breaker.

2. Remove your existing smoke alarm and mounting bracket (you cant reuse mounting brackets as they are manufacturer specific).

3. Screw the supplied mounting bracket to the electrical box.

4. Unscrew the existing wire nuts from the wiring in the ceiling or wall and remove the old connection to your smoke alarm.

5. Attach the wire connectors for the new smoke alarm.

6. Plug the connector coming from the wire into the back of your smart smoke alarm and twist into position on the mounting bracket.

7. Turn the power back on.

Wiring a video doorbell is the easiest smart home wiring job youll do.

Video doorbells place a camera at your front door, allowing you to see anyone there even if they dont press the doorbell. But they do work as doorbells too, and if you have an electrical door chime youll need to connect it to your homes wiring. If you would rather not do this, or dont have an electrical doorbell, there are battery powered video doorbells available (including Ring Video Doorbell 2). You will need to periodically charge the battery however.

1. Turn off the power to your doorbell at the breaker.

2. Remove your old doorbell.

3. If you are placing your doorbell on stucco, brick or concrete you will need a special drill bit to drill holes in the correct positions for placing your new doorbell.

4. Connect the wires coming out of your wall to the screws on the back of your new doorbell (you may need extension wires if your wires are too short, these will need to be attached with wire nuts).

5. Screw the doorbell onto the wall.

6. Turn the power back on.

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Smart home wiring 101: A beginner's guide - the-ambient.com

So you have laid out your wiring plan, have all your supplies, and are ready to wire your house.This guide tells you what you need to know to do the actual wiring. This guide will start withsome basic rules, then has some pictures on properly running the wires, and also somepictures that will help you locate where ductwork will be run so that you can avoid it.Finally, there is the "Don't do this" section of common mistakes to avoid.

Start by running the longest wires first. The reason for this is if you have 30' left overin your spool, you might still be able to use it somewhere. If you run the shortest runs first, thenyou will have more waste.

Start each wire upstairs and pull it through to the basement. This way, you do not needto use a ladder to push the wire up between floors.

Do not put two electrical boxes on opposite sides of the same stud. Doing this requires thedrywaller to cut two holes only 1 1/2 inches apart. This is difficult and usuallyresults in a broken piece of drywall that will just be patched later. You should alsonot put an electrical box right in the corner of a room for the same reason.

You will mount your electrical boxes at the same height that the builder's electrician's boxes.This will be around 12-16" from the floor to the bottom of the box. Sometimes, a builder will usetheir hammer height as a standard for mounting boxes. I used a 12" T-Square to measure the height of mine.

You may want to mount all of the electrical boxes first just so you know where you will be running the wires.You can mount the boxes and write on the stud what wires are needed using a sharpie. Then you can get tothe business of running wires without having to go back and keep looking at your wiring plan.

Run all of the wires next. Save the stapling of the wires and placing the wires in the electrical box for the end.For the first one or two wire runs you may want to ignore this rule and install the boxes and staple the wiresdown before you cut the wire just to make sure you understand how much slack you will need.You should also leave at least one foot of extra wire at each end just in case you need to move things around later.

Before drilling any holes, make sure to look at what is on the other side of the wall/floor. Youdon't want to drill through any electrical wires, ductwork, or water pipes...

Do not run wires parallel to any power lines. It is OK to cross a power wire at a 90 degree angle.Power is usually run around the edges of the basement, so run your wires internally along a floor joist.If you need to run your wires perpendicular to a floor joist, try to do it along a duct or I beam.That way if you finish your basement later, these wires wont interfere with a drywall ceiling.

Run the wires vertically from floor ceiling and then along the floor joists. Do not run a wire horizontallyin the middle of a wall. Doing so increases the chance that someone will put a nail through it.Try to keep the wire as close to the stud as possible. This is especially true for an exterior wallwhere insulation will be installed.

After running the wires, make sure to label each end (using stickers or writing on the wirewith a felt tip marker) and make a note of the label for the wire and its location.I use a letter to represent each electrical box, and then a number for each wire in the box.For example: I will label the electrical box behind the entertainment center in the family roomas "A". Each wire in the box gets a number "1", "2", "3"... At the other end at the wiring panelI label the wires "A1", "A2", "A3"...

After the wires are run, you need to staple them down. Stapling keeps the wires in place so that theydon't come out of the electrical boxes. It also holds them up and out of the way of the drywallersand so that they don't hang down in the ceiling. You should always staple the wire right beforeit enters an electrical box, and also right after it comes through the hole in the floor.When running a wire along a stud, try to keep the wire centered in the stud. That reduces the chancethat a nail will go through the wire from either end. For many wires, you can nail the stapleinto the joist/stud and the use a wire tie to attach the wires to that staple. This method alsoensures that the staples cannot damage the wire.

If the end of the wire does not terminate in an electrical box, then you will need to measure the locationof the wire. Measure from the closest corner of the room. Do not measure from a window. Also recordif the wire is on the left or right side of the stud. For example, if the wire is attached to theleft side of a stud, and you record that the wire is 90" away from the wall, when looking for that wirelater your stud finder will tell you that there is a stud at 90". You won't know which sideof the stud to cut the drywall on. For complicated runs, you may even want to use a digital camerato record the location of wires. Also remember to add or subtract 3/4" from the measurementto account for the thickness of the drywall where you will start your measurement.

After running the wires through the electrical box, be sure to shove all of the wires in the box.Drywallers want to work fast, and any wires sticking out of the box may just get drywalled over.They could also get cut as the hole is cut for the electrical box. The builders will probably nottake the time to place the wires in the box themselves. Also, if the wires stick out of the box orare very close to the front of the box then they will get covered in paint and may cover up yourlabeling or the labels could get torn off.

Some people run the wires straight through the box. The wire coming through the bottom of the box isstapled tight to the stud. The wire then passes through the top of the box and is loosely held to thestud with another staple. When finishing the installation, you can pull the end of the wire back into the box.The loose staple only holds it in place for the drywallers. I don't recommend this method becausethe builder should be insulating each electrical box (as long as it is on an exterior wall) with expandingfoam so that you can't get cold air coming through the box. If the builder sprays Great Stuff into theback of each electrical box, then you wont be able to get the end of that wire back into the box.I also don't like using backless electrical boxes for the same reason.

Wait to install the wall plates and in-wall speakers until the drywall has been installed and painted.You can choose to terminate each wire properly as the builder is still working on the home or you can wait untilyou move in. If you finish the installation up front, then there is a chance that the town'sappraiser will see it and you could affect your home's appraised value and tax bill.For my home, I used blank wall plates during the building phase and then finished the work later.Local codes will probably require that you cover all exposed electrical boxes even if there isn'tany power in the box so leaving electrical boxes open is not an option.

When running wires before the HVAC (Heating, Ventilation, & Air Condition) installers have donetheir work, you need to run your wires without interfering with what they need to do. The HVAC installerswill install ducts that deliver the hot or cold air to the home, and returns that feed the air back into thefurnace. Vents are usually installed on the floor or low on the wall under a window. The ductwork for asecond floor vent is run vertically on an interior wall, and then across the floor joists for the second floor.Returns are usually near the ceiling on an interior wall. Since air loss isn't an issue on a return, theinstallers don't use ductwork for returns. They will use walls, studs, floor joists... as their duct.Ducts for vents should be avoided inside walls. Returns in the basement should be avoided between thefloor joists. There are some specific examples with drawings and pictures below.

When running wires from the basement to outlets on the first or second floor, be sure to avoid the flue and any HVAC ducts.When possible, avoid running wires in the ceiling against the joists (red wire above). Instead, try to get right under the outlet from the basementand then run it straight up (green wire above). The same goes for in-ceiling speakers. Avoid drilling through the joists if you can.You may also want to review our guide on wiring existing homes for more examples.

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Running the Wires in a New Home - Structured Home Wiring

This parts guide is broken up into three sections. The first is what you will need to run wiring during construction.The second section covers what you need to complete your work. The final section is for running wires in an existing home.You do not necessarily need everything in this list, and you may find some things listed here (like a pen) are really obvious.Still I listed them anyway because not having a pen while at your home under construction which is 20 miles from your current home is no fun.

There are many reasons you will need a step stool or ladder, and the step stool is easier to carry around. You will need a stool for tacking up wires to run along beams in the basement, fishing wires through the ceiling, mounting motion detector wires up high... The step stool is more useful than a ladder because it is easier to carry around.

Sometimes a step stool will not cut it. Remember that you may be running wires above the ceiling. In-ceiling speakers for the first floor will run along the second floor beams. If you have 9' ceilings, the first floor to the second floor is actually 10 feet (with 1' beams supporting the second floor).

You will need a drill to make holes through studs and floors to run your wires. With a corded drill you don't have to worry about batteries, but you can't be sure that your house will even have power when you are wiring it. The wall outlets won't be completed until the drywall is done, so at best you may have an outlet to use in the basement.

Of course you need bits to go with the drill. A 1/2" bit will only allow a couple wires through and will not be enough for all situations. A 1" bit will work for almost (but not quite) everything. Spade (flat) wood drill bits (top in the picture) are cheaper when a larger bit is needed but they can cause problems. Spade bits will get stuck easier and they make it harder to drill straight line which can be a problem if you are drilling through multiple studs. If you need to drill two 1" holes next to each other to run a thick wire (like a DVI cable) a spade bit will not work because it will always jam.

You will need power if you are going to recharge the batteries on your drill. You may also need power for lighting. If you do have a working outlet in the basement, the builder's contractors may already be using it. Bring an extension cord with multiple outlets or a power strip so both you and the contractors will have power. You will also need very long extension cords if the only power source is the electrical box in the basement and you need lighting on the second floor.

A cable reel makes it easier to pull on the wires without them get the tangled. A cable reel can be as simple as an elevated bar and can hold multiple spools of cable. I've even seen people hammer a screwdriver into a stud and use that for a cable reel. It is important to note that the spool of wire must rotate as you pull the wire. If you just pull the wire off the top of the spool it will have a twist to it and make it very hard to run.

Wire staples serve 2 purposes. First, they prevent wires from accidentally being pulled out of an electrical box. Second, they keep your wires neat and tight up near the ceiling in the basement.

You will need a hammer for attaching electrical boxes to studs. You may also use a hammer this to nail in the wire staples, assuming you don't own a staple gun. A claw hammer can also be used to remove staples. It can also to be used with the chisel.

Zip ties can also used to keep your wires neat. You should get the 12" nylon variety. If you are running too many wires for a wire staple, you can use a wire staple to attach the zip tie to a beam and then run the wires through the zip tie.

You will need a good pair of wire cutters to cut your wires, and you can also use them to cleanup the zip ties.

You may also want to consider a low voltage box instead of an electrical box for non-power wires. Check with local codes to see if it is acceptable. These boxes are sometimes easier to work with since they don't have a back. I wouldn't use them on exterior walls because they cannot be sealed and you might get cold outside air coming through them.

Different towns might have specific requirements, but usually electrical boxes are mounted 12-16" above the floor. Note: There are different rules for basements where flooding can be an issue. In my home the boxes were exactly 12" from the floor, and using a 12" Square is a lot easier than a tape measure to measure box height, so bring one if you have it. Otherwise, you could use a tape measure and mark all of the electrical box locations up front. You want to make sure your electrical boxes are the same height as the builder's electrician's boxes or the boxes will look odd next to each other. Sometimes, the electricians will just use the height of their hammer to make sure each box is the same height.

Expanding foam (like Great Stuff) is used to fill in holes in electrical boxes to insulate the home and prevent drafts. Make sure you are absolutely sure that you are done wiring that box before you use the foam. Make sure the type of foam you get can be used for wiring in electrical boxes. The foam can expand to 10 times its original size, so before using the foam in an electrical box you should test it to familiarize yourself with it. You may want to save this step until after you have finished the wiring.

If you end up working late at night you will wish your brought a flashlight. A fluorescent flashlight or good lantern will work better than a spot flash light.

If you know you have power in the basement, you may want to set up a halogen light down there. It gets dark in the basement quick without lights and that is where you will be doing most of your work.

Don't forget to bring a pen and a marker/Sharpie. Use the Sharpie for marking studs and doing your labels. The pen is for taking notes.

Use a notebook or a clipboard so it is easier to take notes. I've tried bringing just paper to write on, but homes under construction end up being really humid and the paper gets trashed. A notebook is better. You will want to record information about each photo and the location of all wires not using electrical boxes.

For any wire that is not in an electrical box (alarm, in-wall speaker, garage door wires...) you will have to go digging through drywall to find it. Have a tape measure to record where the wires are relative to the closest corner. Record the location of the wire, the height from the floor and also indicate what side of the stud the wire is on.

If you have a Digital Camera, use it to take pictures of everything. Since all rooms look the same without walls, you should also record what room and what direction each picture is. You never know when this information will be useful (and not just for wiring purposes).

You might need a flathead screwdriver to remove wire staples if you can't use the claw of your hammer. You will also need a screwdriver to cover the electrical boxes with electric plates once the drywall is installed.

Your town's building codes will probably require electrical plates cover all electrical boxes to pass the electrical inspection before you close, even if there are no wires running electricity in those boxes. I used cheap blank wall plates and then replaced them over time after closing. You could also use the proper wall plates and terminate everything before closing, but then the town may see it and it could affect your final assessment. Make sure your wall plates include screws or you will have to buy them separate.

Whenever using your hammer expanding foam you should wear goggles.

If you are working around insulation, or if the builders are installing the insulation while you are in the home, you should wear a mask.

The warning on the label says you should wear gloves when working with expanding foam.

If your wires don't terminate in an electrical box (speaker wires), then you probably just stapled the end of the wire between two studs. Use a stud finder to make sure you know where the studs are before knocking holes in the wall or ceiling. You don't want to cut a template for a speaker and find that part of your hole is over a stud.

For stripping speaker wire or network cable. You could also use a razor blade for some applications.

There are special crimpers for coaxial cable. You should look for one that supports both RG59 and RG6 connectors. It should also be a ratcheting tool, meaning that the tool will not reopen until you have squeezed it tight enough.

You will also need a special crimper(s) for Cat-5e Data/Internet connectors (called RJ45) and Cat3 Phone connectors (called RJ11). Note: Punch blocks and some wall plates don't require you to crimp a connector on the end of the cable so this tool may not be necessary. You may find one tool that can do both types of cables.

For mounting outlets and wall plates and also for wiring an alarm system.

An alternative to a wiring panel is to mount everything to a board. You can now get 2'x4' boards which are just the right size. You can also use 2"x4"'s so that the board is not mounted directly to the concrete wall. That way, every time you screw through the board you are not hitting concrete.

For a basement you will need concrete screws or sinkers and a masonry drill bit. For a drywall installation you will need drywall mounts or drill directly into a stud (preferred).

A coil of rigid steel used to fish wire through walls after the drywall has been installed. First run the fish tape through the wall, attach (tape) your wire to the end, then pull the fish back through the wall.

These flexible drill bits are usually 3' to 6' long and allow you to drill through multiple studs, joists, or through the top/bottom wall plates and you only need to cut a single small hole in the drywall. Just make sure you look before you drill.

You will need electrical tape to attach your wires to the fish tape.

For cutting holes in drywall for new outlets or speakers.

You may need to use a hammer and chisel to notch holes in studs or joists if you need to run a wire across the wall or ceiling.

Old work electrical boxes don't nail directly to the stud. Instead they have flaps that expand out and pinch the drywall after you insert the box through the hole.

Low voltage boxes don't have a back and may be easier to deal with when there are a lot of wires. Don't use these boxes for power wire. Also, I wouldn't use them on exterior walls because they cannot be sealed and could let cold air into the home.

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DIY Home Wiring - Parts / Tools Guide