Home Builder Developer - Interior Renovation and Design

Carpet cleaning, for appearance, and the removal of stains, dirt, and allergens is done through several methods. Clean carpets are recognized by manufacturers as being more visually pleasing, potentially longer-lasting, and probably healthier than poorly maintained carpets.[1]

Although there is an actual steam cleaning industrial process, in the context of carpet cleaning, "steam cleaning" is, in fact, hot water extraction cleaning. The hot water extraction cleaning method uses equipment that sprays heated water, sometimes with added cleaning chemicals, on the carpet. Simultaneously, the water is vacuumed up, along with any dislodged and dissolved dirt. Many carpet manufacturers recommend professional hot water extraction as the most effective carpet cleaning method.[citation needed] Actual steam could damage man-made carpet fibers or shrink natural fibers such as wool.[citation needed]

Hot water extraction equipment may be a portable unit that plugs into an electrical outlet, or a truck mount carpet cleaner requiring long hoses from the truck or trailer. Truck mounted equipment may be used where electricity is unavailable (e.g. if electrical service was terminated). Truck mount carpet cleaning may be unsuited to premises distant from a driveway or road, and hoses may need to pass through windows to reach upper floors of a building. Hoses needed for truck mount and professional portable carpet cleaning may present an inconvenience or tripping hazard to users of hallways, and pets or children can escape through doors that must be left ajar for hoses. Heated or air conditioned air will also escape from buildings when doors are left open for hoses, potentially creating a significant waste of energy. Truck mounted carpet cleaning equipment minimizes noise in the room being cleaned, but truck mounted carpet cleaning equipment may cause noise and air pollution offensive to neighbors, and may violate anti-idling bylaws in some jurisdictions. However, truck-mounted cleaning is much faster than portable equipment, and extra heat and power can give faster drying times.

A common process of hot water extraction [1] begins with preconditioning. Alkaline agents such as ammonia solution for synthetic carpets, or acidic solution (such as vinegar solution) for woolen carpets, are sprayed into the carpet, then agitated with a grooming brush or an automatic scrubbing machine. Next, a pressurized manual or automatic cleaning tool (such as a wand) passes over the surface to rinse out all pre-conditioner, residue, and particulates. If an alkaline detergent is used on a woolen fibre, use of an acetic acid solution will restore neutral fiber pH. The acid rinse thus neutralizes the alkaline residues, and can contribute to softening cleaned fabrics.[2]

The hot water extraction method is the preferred method of many carpet manufacturers.[citation needed]

Extraction is, by far, the most important step in the hot water extraction process. Since the hot-water extraction method uses much more water than other methods like bonnet or shampoo cleaning, proper extraction and air flow are critical to avoid drying issues. Drying time may also be decreased by extra use of fans, air conditioning, and/or outdoor ventilation.[3]

Older surfaces, such as double jute-backed carpets and loose rugs with natural foundation yarns, could shrink after a wet treatment, leading to suppositions that wet-cleaning could also remove wrinkles.[citation needed] However, this notion is antiquated and this method could also occasionally tear seams or uproot strips.[citation needed] Newer carpets, such as with synthetic backing and foundation yarns, do not shrink, and they smooth easily; in such carpets, wrinkles indicate an underlying problem, such as adhesive, that may need a certified carpet inspector to determine.[4]

Wet-cleaning systems naturally require drying time, which may lead to concerns about very slow drying, the risk of discoloration returning during drying, and odors, bacteria, fungi, molds, and mildews. Carpet cleaning specialists try to find a balance between rapid drying (attributable to lower flow rate through the cleaning jets of a spray system) and the need to remove the most soil (attributable to higher flow rate).[3]

Pretreatments similar to those in dry-cleaning and "very low moisture" systems are employed, but require a longer dwell time of 15 to 20 minutes, because of lower amounts of carpet agitation. Ideal pretreatments should rinse easily and leave dry, powdery, or crystalline residue that can be flushed without contributing to re-soiling.[2]

Many dry carpet-cleaning systems rely on specialized machines. These systems are mostly "very low moisture" (VLM) systems, relying on dry compounds complemented by application cleaning solutions, and are growing significantly in market share due in part to their very rapid drying time,[3] a significant factor for 24-hour commercial installations. Dry-cleaning and "very low moisture" systems are also often faster and less labor-intensive than wet-extraction systems.

Heavily soiled areas require the application of manual spotting, pretreatments, preconditioners, and/or "traffic-lane cleaners", (commonly sprayed onto carpet prior to the primary use of the dry-cleaning system) which are detergents or emulsifiers which break the binding of different soils to carpet fibers over a short period of time. For example, one chemical may dissolve the greasy films that bind soils to the carpet, and thus prevent effective soil removal through vacuuming. The solution may add a solvent like d-limonene, petroleum byproducts, glycol ethers, or butyl agents. The amount of time the pretreatment dwells in the carpet should be less than 15 minutes, due to the thorough carpet brushing common to these "very low moisture" systems, which provides added agitation to ensure the pretreatment works fully through the carpet.[2] The benefit of dry carpet cleaning, over wet solutions, is that dry chemical compounds don't attract dirt, like dried shampoo.[citation needed] While dry carpet cleaning is more expensive and more time consuming to clean than Bonnet or extraction, dry cleaning formulas put less stress on the carpets themselves.[citation needed]

A 98% biodegradable or others,[5] slightly moist absorbent cleaning compound may be spread evenly over carpet and brushed or scrubbed in. For small areas, a household hand brush can work such a compound into carpet pile; working like "tiny sponges", the attracted cleaning solution dissolve dirt, dirt and grime is attracted/absorbed to the compound, after a short drying time (the cleaning solution which is attracted to the compound must evaporate), it will be removed with a vacuum cleaner, the drier the better, leaving carpet immediately clean and dry. But it's very difficult to remove all residues, the residues can cause allergies and biological compounds may cause discolourations on carpets. For commercial applications, a specially designed cylindrical counter-rotating brushing system is used, without a vacuum cleaner. Machine scrubbing is more typical, in that hand scrubbing generally cleans only the top third of carpet.

In the 1990s, new polymers began literally encapsulating (crystallizing) soil particles into dry residues on contact.[6] In the conventional cleaning process surfactant molecules attach themselves to oily soil particles, suspending them (emulsification) so that they can be easily rinsed away. Surfactant (detergent) molecules and emulsified soils which escape being rinsed away, remain in the fibre and continue to attract soiling, causing the condition of the carpet to degenerate; often re-soiling faster than before it was subjected to the cleaning process. Encapsulators are speciality detergent polymers which become part of the detergent system. As drying occurs (20-30 min. drytime), after cleaning, these encapsulators bind the detergent molecules and residual soils in a brittle, crystalline structure.[5] Detergent and soil particles can no longer attract other soils and are easily removed by dry vacuuming. In addition to binding the detergent and soil residues the encapsulation chemistry coats the clean fibre with the same brittle film. This reduces the fibres affinity for oily and particulate soils. As this brittle film"breaks away" and more soil is removed, the appearance of the fibre improves as opposed to soiling more rapidly. Products which also employ fluorochemical technology, display dramatically extended anti re-soiling time periods. Cleaning solution is applied by rotary machine, brush applicator, or compression sprayer. Dry residue is vacuumable immediately (20-30 min. drytime), either separately or from a built-in unit of the cleaning-system machine. According to ICS Cleaning Specialist, evidence suggests encapsulation improves carpet appearance, compared to other systems; and it is favorable in terms of high-traffic needs, operator training, equipment expense, and lack of wet residue. Encapsulation carpet cleaning also keeps carpets cleaner for longer periods of time compared to other methods. Encapsulation also avoids the drying time of carpet shampoos, making the carpet immediately available for use. The use of encapsulation to create a crystalline residue that can be immediately (20-30 min. drytime) vacuumed (as opposed to the residue of wet cleaning systems, which generally requires an additional day before vacuuming) is a newer technology that has recently become an accepted method for commercial and residential deep cleaning.[4]

After club soda mixed with cleaning product, other products are also possible, is deposited onto the surface as mist, a round buffer or "bonnet" scrubs the mixture with rotating motion. This industry machine resembles a floor buffer, with an absorbent spin or oscillating pad that attracts soil and is rinsed or replaced repeatedly. The bonnet method is not strictly dry-cleaning and involves significant drying time. To reduce pile distortion, the absorbent bonnet should be kept well-lubricated with cleaning solution. Its not recommended to dunk the bonnet in a bucket of cleaning solution and then wring it out with a mop-bucket wringer, then the bonnet is to wet. Its very important to change or turn the bonnet early, Bonnets can become filled with soil in just a couple hundred square feet. And once loaded with soil, the bonnet will not hold any more; instead, it simply moves the soil from one area to another. The overly wet bonnet also deposits residues that attract soils when they are dry, creating the need to clean more often. Its recommended for robust and not for high floor carpet, it swirls the floor. It distorts pile and grinds dirt deeper in carpet fiber also it has an abrasive effect.[7] When there is a large amount of foreign material in the carpet, extraction with a wet process may be needed. Normally, the spin-bonnet method may not be as capable of sanitizing carpet fibers due to the lack of hot water, for this a spezial thermo machine is needed, here the buffing machine is equipped with a heating, to heat up the bonnet, but a post-cleaning application of an antimicrobial agent is used to make up for this. Compared to steam cleaning, the small amounts of water required with spin-bonnet carpet cleaning favor water-conservation considerations. It only cleans the top of the carpet 1/8 inch but its very fast for wide areas. But bonnet cleaning is not the best mechanism for completely removing the chemical that is pre-sprayed onto a carpet. Its recommended that only surfactant free or encapsulating products are used. On the other hand, the re-soiling is great.

Wet shampoo cleaning with rotary machines, followed by thorough wet vacuuming, was widespread until about the 1970s, but industry perception of shampoo cleaning changed with the advent of encapsulation. Hot-water extraction, also regarded as preferable, had not been introduced either. Wet shampoos were once formulated from coconut oil soaps;[4] wet shampoo residues can be foamy or sticky, and steam cleaning often reveals dirt unextracted by shampoos. Since no rinse is performed, the powerful residue can continue to collect dirt after cleaning, leading to the misconception that carpet cleaning can lead to the carpet getting "dirtier faster" after the cleaning.[4][6] The best method is to combine shampoo and extraction, first shampoo with a spin brush to loosen the dirt and the pile, then extraction the carpet. But this needs time and double rinsed is necessary and the drying time is up to 24 h.

When wet-shampoo chemistry standards converted from coconut oil soaps to synthetic detergents as a base, the shampoos dried to a powder, and loosened dirt would attach to the powder components, requiring vacuuming by the consumer the day after cleaning.[4]

Dry foam cleaning[8] involves applying cleaning foam and immediately vacuuming the foam. It is not a completely dry method since the foam is 90% air and 10% liquid. A dry foam machine consists of a pressure tank in which a solution of water and shampoo is added. This method is used for water sensitive carpets, needle felt, and other carpet types whose construction inhibits sufficient water extraction.

Vacuum washing[9] employs a washhead that sprays water without detergent and immediately removes it by suction, creating a swirl of water. This ensures high cleaning performance, extracting the dirt from the carpet to a depth of half inch. By immediately reabsorbing the wash water, the drying time greatly shortened. This method is suitable for intermediate and basic cleaning. Because it does not require cleaning products, it leaves no detergent residue. Vacuum washing has long been in use in Europe, mostly in larger train and bus companies, schools, and historic preservation. The system works on all surfaces which are water resistant (carpet, upholstered furniture, wooden floors, stone, plastics). A great advantage is that this system works without brushes or pads so there is no abrasion on pile.

Other household carpet-cleaning processes are much older than industry standardization, and have varying degrees of effectiveness as supplements to the more thorough cleaning methods accepted in the industry.

Vacuum cleaners use air pumps to create partial vacuums to suck up dust and dirt, usually from floors and carpets. Filtering systems or cyclones collect dirt for later disposal. Modern carpet cleaning equipment use rotary vacuum heads and spray jets to deep clean the carpet through hundreds of multi-directional cleaning passes. Some add steam and agitation. Models include upright (dirty-air and clean-air), canister and backpack, wet-dry and pneumatic, and other varieties. Robotic vacuum cleaners have recently become available.

Tea leaves and cut grass were formerly common for floor cleaning, to collect dust from carpets, albeit with risks of stains. Ink was removed with lemon or with oxalic acid and hartshorn; oil with white bread or with pipe clay; grease fats with turpentine; ox gall and naphtha were also general cleaners. Ammonia and chloroform were recommended for acid discoloration. Benzine and alum were suggested for removing insects;[10]diatomaceous earth and material similar to cat litter are still common for removing infestations. Candle wax is removed by placing a towel over the affected carpet area and applying steam from a clothes iron until the wax absorbs into the towel. Some traditional methods of stain removal remain successful and ecological. Caution should be addressed when treating natural fibers such as wool.

The longer the stain material remains in the carpet, the higher the chance of permanent color change, even if all the original stain material is removed. At times pets urinate on the carpet and this results in a bad odor especially when it is hot and humid.The carpet or rug is usually taken outside and immersed in water to remove such stains. Immediately blotting (not rubbing) the stain material as soon as possible will help reduce the chances of permanent color change. Artificial food coloring stains are generally considered permanent stains. These may be removed by professional cleaners or deep cleaning rental machines with heat-transfer stain-reducing chemicals, but carry risks of burning the carpet. Stain removal products can be combined with anti-allergen treatments to kill house dust mites.

Carpet rods, rattan rugbeaters, and carpet-beating machines for beating out dust, and also brooms, brushes, dustpans, and shaking and hanging were all carpet-cleaning methods of the 19th century; brooms particularly carry risks of wear. Steam cleaning increases the lifespan of your carpet.[10]

Robert Wittkamp (19422007), IICRC-certified master Carpet Cleaners technician with 30 years' expertise in carpet cleaning, commented that old wives' tales persist and thrive within the industry. For instance, the concept that walking barefoot on a carpet may lead to damage from body oils has not been supported or disproven by standardized reports or testing or by industry evidence.[4]

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Carpet cleaning - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Need your carpet and furniture cleaned? ... We offer a complete service throughout Auckland at great prices.

Congratulations for making the decision to have your carpets professionally cleaned. You can trust in us to take care of it for you. I've been running this business for 20 years and Gray has been with mefor 15 years after 10 years in the carpet manufacturingindustry.Carpet and rug cleaning is a skilled trade only truly learnt through experience as all carpets and situations are different. For the most thorough carpet clean we use the hot water extraction method (commonly called steam cleaning) to give your carpet a deep clean. The hot water and bio friendly detergent penetrates deep into the pile. Immediately after the powerful vacuum suction extracts the water, dirt, soluble matter and allergens leaving it thoroughly cleansed and rinsed. Where an area such as a high traffic area or heavily soiled area is concerned, we will pre spray and if necessary respray until such time as we have achieved the optimum results for you using NZ's recognised carpet industry best practices.

For stain treatment, we will identify thestain type asking you if you know the origin or age of the stain. We will then be more able to treat it. Currently we are running a free website offer so there is no extra charge for this service and also free deodorising. Not all stains can be removed, a helpful hint if it is yellow, orange or red it probably won't come out.

Not only does regular carpet cleaning prolong the life of the carpet cosmetically it will appear newer, fresher and softer and hygienically you have the confidence in knowing there are no nasties in the carpet such as allergens, dust mites, fleas and pollens.

Hot water extraction is the most commonly used method in New Zealand for cleaning carpets, rug carpet cleaning and fabric upholstery cleaning. It is also the most recommended cleaning method for most carpet and upholstery manufacturers and is the preferred method recommended by the new zealand wools board.

For a friendly, personal answer to any questions you might have please call me on one of the methods below,as all situations are different. I am pleased to provide this service FREEto answer your specific enquiry or area of concern and give you an immediate solution and free adviceand a free quote on the spot. Occasionally our phones get over loaded due to the fact we are frequently at the top of the Google search so please do leave a message and i will call you back as soon as possible because I like to handle yours and everyenquiry personally like our most commonly asked question "can you do it today?".

Pre-assessment and free smile 🙂 Pre-spray traffic areas

Pre-spray stains and soiled areas

0800 746 636

Text Paul now on

0274977402

Email us on

costless.carpet.cleaning@hotmail.com

Paul Slattery's carpet cleaning has been proudly servicing the following areas: south auckland, east auckland, west auckland, north shore auckland, eastern bays, eastern suburbs, western suburbs, manukau city, waitakere city, cbd, north shore, shore, waitakere, manukau, howick, pakuranga, botany, panmure, ellerslie, mt wellington, penrose, greenlane, remuera, newmarket, epsom, mt roskill, mt albert, manurewa, botany, east tamaki, otara, dannemora, otahuhu, onehunga, papatoetoe, pukekohe, papakura, mangere, manurewa, parnell, city, hernebay, ponsonby, pt chev, new lynn, henderson, te atatu south, te atatu peninsula, auckland city, glendene, glen eden, titirangi, massey, greenhithe, west harbour, hobsonville, orewa, brownsbay, glenfield, birkdale, birkenhead, takapuna , north harbour, north Auckland, devonport, milford, east coast bays, hibiscus coast, albany, nth shore, auckland cbd.

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Carpet Cleaning Auckland | Carpet Cleaners Auckland ...

Why clean air ducts?

The dust, pollen, dander, sawdust, mold spores and other lightweight particles that float in your homes air eventually circulate through your heating and cooling system. Your furnace filter traps some of this airborne debrisif you replace your filter when its dirtybut some settles in the ductwork. That accumulated dirt is available to move back into the airflow and blow into your rooms. Your furniture and floors get dusty sooner, but worse, your homes air quality can deteriorate. If you have respiratory problems, you might find it more difficult to breath. If you suffer from seasonal allergies, you can be exposed to pollen all year long. Dirty ducts also make your heating and cooling system less efficient. The filter clogs faster, so the system has to work harder to move airand you can end up with a higher energy bills. Also, particles of dirt wear on the components in your HVAC system, which can shorten its life.

What to expect

Sears Air Duct Cleaning follows the duct-cleaning guidelines established by the National Air Duct Cleaners Association (NADCA) guidelines. The technician covers the floor and install corner gardens to prevent damage to your home, attaches a powerful vacuum to the main duct, and then uses specialized tools to knock the dust loose so the vacuum can collect it. Before leaving, the air-duct cleaning technician answers any questions you might have and makes sure youre satisfied with the work.

Read more here:
Air Duct Cleaning | Sears Home Services

A retaining wall holds back earth. While this goal is significant, it should not be the only design consideration. More important, a retaining wall must be designed to allow a passage for water to drain away from the wall. We strongly suggest you hire a professional engineer or landscape contractor specializing in retaining walls to design and build a reliable wall more than 3 feet high.

Any number of retaining wall design options may be just what your landscape needs. For instance, a stone retaining wall that cuts into a slope frees space unsuitable for a patio or walkway. A wall that cuts into a level lawn and forms a sunken garden room creates a microclimate that extends the growing season. Or a series of low terraces can be used to create level playing fields in a once-sloped backyard.

As a major focal point in the landscape, a retaining wall should be attractive and suit the setting. Keep in mind that the overall size of the completed wall will affect the impact of its presence. A series of low terraces will work in much the same way as one massive retaining wall to tame a slope but will look completely different.

A wide range of stone works well for retaining walls, from hefty boulders holding back a hillside to distinctive stone veneer mortared to reliable concrete block. If you're interested in the look of stone but not its price, consider the options available with stone-look interlocking concrete blocks. Learn more about shopping for landscape stone here.

Retaining walls also can be constructed out of wood. Wood does not offer the longevity that stone does, but its unique texture is appealing to some homeowners. Learn more about building a wood retaining wall here.

Never underestimate the engineering required to build a retaining wall. The lay of the lands and soil type have heavy bearing on a wall and must be considered. Building a low retaining wall to form a raised planting bed at the foot of a gentle slope is much different than building a 4-foot-wall to hold back the cut left after excavating a driveway through a steep hill. You'll need professional advice and assistance, as well as a building permit, to build a retaining wall higher than 3 feet. A low wall can be accomplished by most do-it-yourselfers.

Any retaining wall includes a varied selection of stone sizes, with the most substantial ones at the base and smaller stones filling in behind the wall's face. A dry-stacked retaining wall must be built so each course, or horizontal layer of stone, staggers backward into the slope. Staggering adds strength and will keep the wall from bowing or collapsing. The bank behind the wall should be cut away to angle backbottom to topminimizing any pressure it might place on the wall. Perforated drainpipe, laid in gravel behind the wall's base, will help carry water away. For stability, each course of the wall will be set back slightly so the wall angles back at least 6 inches for a 3-foot-high wall.

More here:
All About Retaining Walls - Better Homes & Gardens

Retaining walls are usually used for sloping backyards. Sometimes a retaining wall is used to add more room for the pool by cutting into a small hillside, or to allow for perimeter space all the way around the pool. Some home owners incorporate a retaining wall into a water feature, such as wall spouts or rock waterfalls - but that's a topic for another day.

Perhaps your property is level, but you want to add a dramatic backdrop to your pool with a raised wall on the far side. On top of the wall, you can add water features, a raised spa or additional pool deck spaces. Retaining walls can be topped with small bushes to add greenery and act as a barrier to blowing leaves. They can also serve a safety function by restricting access on one side of the pool.

It depends on the slope of your backyard. Remember, you always want water to flow away from the pool, not towards it. If your yard is steep, or there is a hill or drop-off in close proximity to the pool, it will be necessary to build a retaining wall to keep water (and dirt) away from your pool.

This is determined in the planning stage and placement of the pool. With a plat of your property showing elevations, proper placement of the pool and the appropriate landscaping can be determined. We can help with that. If your backyard has hills, slopes and valleys, a retaining wall will most likely be needed.

SLAB: The most durable material would be a concrete slab or poured concrete for a retaining wall. This is not normally used for small backyard retaining walls however. More commonly used is a type of retaining wall known as a "Gravity Wall".

TIMBERS: Many retaining walls are made of timber, usually pressure treated 6x6. Depending on the weight and slope pushing on the timber, this may not be suitable. Timber often doesnt hold up as long as concrete, boulder or slab retaining walls. Wood retaining walls can be made stronger with the use of perpendicular supports, what's called a "dead-man". These are equally spaced behind a wall, every third course to keep the wall from being pushed too easily in the wrong direction.

BLOCKS: A popular option are interlocking concrete blocks, commonly known as a segmented retaining wall. These walls can be easily built, and are engineered to create an extremely strong wall, when properly installed.

STONES: A concrete block wall, mortared in place and strengthened by steel and concrete is finished with a facing of flagstone, or field stone, with cap stones on top. Certainly one of your most expensive options, but also one of the sturdiest retaining walls. Various stone types (and bricks) and several methods of stacking would be available.

BOULDERS: Natural boulders, which allow drainage, can make a quickly constructed retaining wall. The common size boulder recommended is 18 to 24 and they are stacked against the slope to keep them from rolling into the pool ~ Try getting that out with your skimmer net! Boulders and large flat rocks can also be worked into a natural landscape with big foliage and maybe a water feature.

If you can imagine it, you can build it! Wall When you have different elevations, one could plumb their retaining wall for a sheer decent water feature or a natural stream bed, deck jets, water spouts or tall overflowing planters. Anything is possible. Very small fountains can be run off of your filter pump, but if you are planning a large volume water feature, you typically will install an additional pump, which draws water out of a wall intake, and pumps it to your waterfall, cascade or jets.

PLAN: First, plan out what type of material you will use and how long and high the retaining wall will be. With a survey plat of your property, showing elevation, mark the location of your retaining wall.

PERMITS: This will be rolled into your overall construction permit in most cases. For small retaining walls, under 24 inches tall, you may not need a permit in many areas. it is important to try to keep your walls 5 high or less. Over than 5 will require an Engineer's stamped plan which must be submitted with the pool construction application. If you have room, having two smaller retaining walls, terrace style, is usually a better result than one taller wall.

EXCAVATE: The footing or foundation for your retaining wall should be deep and wide. Dig out at least 24 wide and 18" deep. Measure to be sure you have dug or excavated a consistent depth. In many cases, your pool excavator or grader can dig this while the pool is being dug, and can work from the plans and markings made ready for his arrival.

GRAVEL: Make sure that you compact the soil in the bottom of the trench and lay 6 gravel. Begin to lay your first course, directly on top of the gravel. Filter fabric should be used behind the wall extending from the bottom of the base of the wall to the top of the wall. This will prevent soil from seeping through the wall.

BUILD: The first course, or bottom row should be placed at least 6 below the ground level, or about 1/10th of the wall height. Use long rebar pieces, driven through your block or timber with a sledge hammer, to help hold the first course in place. Continue to build the blocks or timbers vertically, leaning towards the slope until you have reached the desired height. As mentioned previously, certain materials are limited as to how high they can be built. Check your local building and zoning website for retaining wall height restrictions.

DRAINAGE: Place drainage tile (perforated black pipe) behind the wall as necessary, depending on the type of soil and height of the wall. Cover the pipe in 6-12" of gravel. The drainage tile should be come through the wall at every low point, or at the end of the wall, or every 10-20 feet.

BACKFILL: Make sure you use free draining material as back fill, behind the wall. Sandy soil or gravel can be used, over top of the landscape fabric.Finally, fill in all areas behind the wall with soil, and compact every 12.

SPP sells DIY Inground Pool Kits. This article, and many others like it under the heading of "How to Build a Pool", are part of our commitment to helping you build your own inground swimming pool. If you have other questions on swimming pool retaining walls, or any part of DIY pool construction - give us a call at 800-893-7665. We can help you plan accordingly.

Bob Arnold SPP Pool Expert

Read more here:
How to Build a Pool: Retaining Walls - poolproducts.com

Bathroom Renovation Ideas & Articles

As the saying goes, kitchens and bathrooms sell homes. But even if your home isn't on the market, a beautifully remodeled bathroom with modern fixtures and finishes provides a pleasant environment in which to get ready for work, prepare for a night on the town or simply get away from it all and relax.

If you're planning on getting quotes from pros for your bathroom renovation, ImproveNet can help you connect with up to four local contractors for free! You might even be considering taking on the project yourself. Either way, read on.

To get your imagination going about possibilities for changing your bathroom around, here are a few jobs or projects you can do to create the bathroom of your dreams:

All of these jobs can be done as DIY projects, though they may take more or less time depending on your experience and the state of your home. More extensive bathroom remodeling projects such as replacing your tub, adding a new shower or adding a new sink may require the assistance of a professional plumber or contractor if you want them to be done right.

Almost all home improvement projects take about twice as long as you think they "ought" to take. The best advice is to begin your project early in the day, even if you think you won't need that much time. Don't be discouraged if your remodeling job takes longer than you think it should take.

Excerpt from:
Bathroom Remodeling | Your Guide to Bathroom Remodels

Make sure your church gets the most out of its remodeling budget! WBC Development is a trusted and experienced church builder who will assist you with the entire process of your church remodeling project, from beginning to end. Well keep your project within budget so you get the most out of your remodeling dollars. With WBC, you can count on open communication, unsurpassed professionalism, and a hassle-free experience. Learn more about WBCs church remodeling. Sharing your vision of a cost-efficient church design and church remodeling Whether you need a church remodel, addition, childrens or youth area, WBC Development can help. You can be assured that the church building that your congregation envisions is built with professionalism and passion. Surprise costs, delays, and the fear of going over budget make building a new church remodeling or repurposing overwhelming. Put your worries at ease with WBC Development, a church builder who communicates and cares. Learn more about WBCs church design and church building. Professional church project management eliminates risks and hassles WBC Development brings together all the necessary components to make sure your church building or remodeling goes as smoothly as planned. You get a project manager who sees the build process through, from conception to completion, and brings the architects, engineers, and builders together to ensure that your congregation gets the church it desires. Learn more about WBCs church project management. Are you planning to remodel your church?

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Church Builders | Church Contractors | Texas

The North Carolina Annual Conference is in a unique position when it comes to helping your congregation when in need for construction/renovation project assistance. Through the NC Conference Board of Missions Incorporated, our Conference is itself, a licensed General Contractor within the State of North Carolina.

No project is too large or too small for us to be in consultation with you, and through our construction consultant, we can assist you with total new construction, new additions, renovations and historic preservation.

What makes us unique is that we attempt, where possible, to blend the use of professional sub-contractors with volunteers arranging with you to tap into the volunteer pool within your own congregation, or from other church communities beyond. We view this as an opportunity for mission outreach and connectional growth.

Whether you are in a position to raise all of the funds you need, or need to take advantage of loan opportunities through the Conference or traditional lender, our general policy is to offer a compensation program that could significant lower the congregations construction costs.

A vision of possibility

The Board of Missions Incorporated, also offers a very competitive revolving-loan ministry. Loan rates are competitive and fixed. The only additional cost borne by the congregation is the loan filing cost with your local county. Typically these fees are less than $50. Also, there are no penalties for early loan pay-off. All proceeds from interest charged are rolled back into the construction ministry.

In addition to offering construction oversight, we do strive to be a good host in partnership with the congregation doing the building and in providing a hospitable environment for out-of Conference individual and group volunteers.

You can learn more about the NC Conference construction ministry and see updates on the latest jobs at

For more information, please feel free to contact the Board of Missions at: Church Construction Ministry

800-849-4433 ext 256 or contact Kathy Duncan at kduncan@nccumc.org

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Church Construction Ministry - NC Conference

A recent study by the Rainer Group of over 300 recently completed church building programs highlighted in their report the benefit of completing a feasibility study prior to construction.

Their study validates and reinforces the need for careful pre-construction planning that we repeat over and over again in our ebook. Planning that most churches just are just not equipped to complete in a timely, objective and accurate manner.

It's Not the Church's Fault...

This is just not something that most churches have the necessary experience to do themselves. Ultimately a feasibility study does not have to cost the church anything.

It Needs to be Done...

But if you were honest with yourself, you would probably agree that as a whole, your church leadership team does not have the practical experience or training to do an effective and objective analysis.

There's Too Much at Risk...

Hundreds of thousands or millions of dollars are on the line, not to mention the effectiveness and the well-being of your ministry. Learn more about a feasibility study for your church and how it will save you time, money, stress and effort.

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Church Construction - Building your New Church

Give your Church the space it needs to grow while saving time and money with a steel church building.

Is your church running out of space? Think you cant afford to build right now? Most people just dont realize how affordable steel church buildings are. We can show you the way to save up to 50 % off the cost of conventional construction and have your church built in a fraction of the time. Steel church building designs are quickly becoming the most popular choice among many religious organizations. Steel buildings offer a cost effective, flexible, low maintenance and energy efficient structure that can be designed to fit almost any situation.

Most church buildings require large open spaces. One of the great advantages of steel church buildings is you can maintain a clear-span of up to 300 ft wide. Having a large space that is column-free, you gain the flexibility to satisfy even the most complex space design needs while still maintaining an obstacle free environment.

Steel church buildings no longer have to look like a warehouse. Most churches love the advantages of steel buildings but dont realize that a Steel Building can be designed to look almost any way you can imagine, including stone, brick, slate and stucco. Standard Steel also carries a complete line of personnel doors, roll-up doors, windows and accessories that can help you customize your new building project.

Financing can be an important part of your church building project. Standard Steel Buildings has made arrangements with several different lending companies that specialize in church building Financing. With dozens of different programs, from church start ups, to multi-million dollar projects, we can help with all your church building Financing.

Our steel church buildings are shipped from 21 manufacturing plants within the United States. All of our shipping points are AISC certified (American Institute Of Steel Construction) and in good standing with the MBMA (Metal Building Manufacturing Association). We take great pride in using American steel, ensuring that our customers receive only the best quality church steel buildings available.

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Steel Church Buildings - Standard Steel Buildings