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EASTVALE: Plan to save iconic tree axed

A plan to save what may be Eastvale's oldest tree failed this week when council members deadlocked 2-2. Mayor Ike Bootsma didn't take part in the discussion because the tree is on his front lawn.

, STAN LIM, FILE PHOTO

A proposal to save a picturesque tree on Eastvale Mayor Ike Bootsmas front lawn died this week amid traffic safety concerns.

A community effort to save the tree which some people believe is the oldest and tallest tree in the young city was organized by Bootsmas wife, Squeaker.

Because of his personal involvement, Bootsma didnt take part in the City Councils discussion or vote, leaving Councilmen Adam Rush, Bill Link, Joe Tessari and Clint Lorimore to decide whether to save the tree when its time to widen Schleisman Road from four to six lanes where it runs past the mayors home.

The council deadlocked 2-2 Wednesday, Feb. 11, on a motion to approve a plan that would curve the lanes around the tree and install a sidewalk behind and around the tree.

I think we need to stick with the original design, Rush said, referring to the Riverside County-approved road-widening plan approved in 2008, before Eastvale became a city..

That plan required the removal of the 40-foot tree to make way for the additional lanes.

Traffic is one of the biggest issues facing the city, Rush said.

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EASTVALE: Plan to save iconic tree axed

The future of the English elm tree pictured on the left side of Church St, Mosgiel, is up in the air. Photo by Christine O'Connor.

Church St resident Martin Dillon is applying for resource consent to remove a 40m to 45m English elm on his property and his application was heard by the hearings committee yesterday.

His application to cut down the tree, which is on the council's schedule of significant trees, has split opinion. Five people, including two neighbours, submitted in favour of it being felled and three people opposed its removal.

Those favouring removal were concerned about how much it blocked the sun, the danger of branches falling in the wind, the amount of leaves and fruit it dropped and its immense size, with one submitter describing it as a ''monster tree''.

However, others said the tree added to the Mosgiel area, one describing it as a ''magnificent specimen of its type''.

Mr Dillon, who is a member of the Mosgiel-Taieri Community Board, said at the hearing the tree needed to come down.

''The tree affects our and our neighbour's wellbeing every day of the year ... through suckers, through the fruit-seeds, through the leaves and through the shading.''

He estimated over a one-year period he spent up to $980 having spouting cleaned of leaves and other debris from the tree.

The tree was so large it shaded not only his and his wife's property, but nine other neighbouring houses.

Speaking after his submission, he said council staff, who recommended the tree be kept, had their hands tied because the evaluation method they used placed too much weight on the health of trees and wider community benefits and not enough on the effects on property owners and neighbours.

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Troublesome tree should stay - council

Follow this advice for branches up to 3in across for anything larger, Id advise calling in a tree surgeon with a chainsaw.

You will need ...

Chalk Secateurs Bucket for collecting mouldy fruit Folding pruning saw handy as you can stick it in your back pocket while climbing the ladder Or a carpenters wood saw more economical to buy than specialist pruning saws and man enough (when new) to handle large branches, but less wieldy when climbing the ladder Ladder and short length of rope to secure to the tree

1 Prepare to prune

Lean your ladder into the tree, propping it so it sits without wobbling against a stout, healthy branch within easy reach of what you want to cut.

Loop a piece of rope twice around the rung closest to the branch and tie the ladder to the branch with a granny knot.

Standing on the ladder, have a good look up into the tree. You should see a vase-shape of branches emerging from the trunk, but on poorly pruned trees, there is also usually a mass of unproductive upright stems epicormic growth coming from the centre, and its these you want to remove, along with larger, obviously dead, diseased or crossing boughs. Their removal opens up the centre of the tree, allowing air to move freely through the foliage and fruit, which in turn reduces fungal infections like mildew and scab, that scar leaves and fruit with black blotches.

Mark the branches you want to get rid of with a piece of chalk. Before you cut, check from the ground that they are the right ones. This might seem overly cautious, but Ive learnt the hard way that when youre up in the tree, saw in hand, its all too easy to mix up the good with the bad and the ugly.

First prop your ladder against the apple tree (Christopher Jones)

2 Start pruning

Link:
How to prune an apple tree in five simple steps

Residents in Des Moines' Sherman Hill neighborhood are upset after an oak tree, believe to be 100-years-old, was uprooted because of construction on a gas leak in the neighborhood.

The Des Moines Register newspaper reports that the MidAmerican Energy Company had been looking for a leak in the gas main.

Company surveyors said they located the leak directly underneath the tree, which was removed on Tuesday.

MidAmerican spokesman Ashton Newman said other ways of dealing with the gas leak were considered, but it was determined that they would disrupt the neighborhood with more digging, disrupt service or affect other trees.

Des Moines City Councilman Skip Moore, the former municipal arborist, has called for an emergency meeting with city officials to discuss the process for removing trees.

Moore said the downed oak will likely be turned into mulch.

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Emergency meeting called on 100-year-old tree's removal

A properly planted tree or shrub will be more tolerant of adverse conditions and require much less management than one planted incorrectly. Planting technique impacts water quality as it minimizes water, fertilizer and pesticide use. When making decisions on planting techniques, one should consider how the plant was grown in the nursery, the plant's drainage requirements, the soil type and drainage characteristics, and the availability of irrigation water. The plant should be specifically appropriate to the site, or the site should be amended to specifically fit the plant.

Horticulture researchers have estimated that 75% of the roots may be lost when digging field-grown nursery stock. Cultural practices by the nurseryman, such as root pruning, irrigation, fertilization, root-ball configuration, and digging techniques, influence the percentage of harvested roots. Water stress, due to removal of most of the water-absorbing roots, is the primary cause of transplant failure. Most water absorption capability within a transplanted root-ball results from very small diameter roots. These fragile roots are the first to suffer from excess water loss in newly transplanted landscape plants.

Landscape contractors and home gardeners can choose from a wide variety of plant material in North Carolina. Plants are grown by various production methods, e.g. bare-root, balled and burlapped, fabric container and plastic container. Some large landscape trees are mechanically dug with a tree-spade and placed in wire baskets. Each of these harvesting and growing techniques is acceptable, but requires a specific planting and management technique.

Advantages of planting bare-root plants are mostly economical. Plants are less expensive to produce because of the ease of harvesting, storing and shipping. Many species respond well to bare-root harvesting. A greater portion and longer roots are retained after harvesting and roots are easily inspected at planting time. Damaged roots can be trimmed and girdling roots can be removed before planting. Bare-root plants should be planted while they are completely dormant. Landscape-sized bare-root trees usually require staking.

Larger landscape plants are traditionally harvested as "balled and burlapped" (B&B). A major advantage of B&B plants is that soil types can be matched, thereby reducing any interface problems that might inhibit water movement between the rootball and surrounding soil of the landscape site. There is an acceptable, standardized formula for sizing rootballs, which is the American Standard for Nursery Stock. The main disadvantage of B&B material is that a large portion of the roots may be severed at harvest time. The amount of roots harvested depends upon soil type, irrigation practices and root pruning during the production period. Plants moved B&B are subject to seasonal constraints. The most favorable seasons are when transpiration demand is low and root generation potential is high, such as in fall, winter and early spring. With the much-reduced root system, water is a critical element in the successful transplanting of B&B material.

The advantage of using plants grown in containers is that 100% of the roots are in the container. Thus, the plant goes through limited transplant shock if given adequate follow-up care. Container-grown plants can be planted into the landscape year-round. Plants produced in containers, in a soilless medium (usually bark and sand), are much lighter than B&B material. This is very helpful to home gardeners who may not have large equipment to handle the heavy plants.

The main disadvantage of container-grown plants is the possibility of deformed roots. "Rootbound" plants have roots circling inside the container. The entangled roots are a physical barrier to future root growth and development. If this condition is not corrected at planting time, the plant may experience slow growth and establishment because of the girdled roots. Some form of root mass disturbance is recommended before planting.

A relatively new production system is the use of fabric containers or bags. Plants are grown in the bags, placed in the ground, with a soil backfill. The advantage to this production technique is purported to be a means of harvesting a greater number of roots while using field production practices. The fabric must be removed at transplanting time. This can be somewhat of a problem when the roots have become attached to the walls of the bag, or if roots have escaped through the fabric.

Smaller plants live better and establish faster than large plants and are more economical. Many consumers, on the other hand, want the "instant" landscape look. Demand for large, landscape-size trees has certainly increased over the last decade. With large mechanical digging equipment, 6- to 8-inch diameter trees can be moved. Large diameter trees are often transplanted for instantaneous effect, but post-transplant stress and costs increase with the size of the tree.

Correct planting technique begins with the loading of the plant at the nursery or garden center. Home gardeners and landscapers should be very careful with plant material. Always protect the roots, stems and foliage during transport. The plant tops should be shielded from winds. Never pick up a plant by the trunk. Trees are particularly vulnerable to damage if growth has started. In the spring the bark is easily injured. B&B trees are very susceptible to this type injury because of the weight of the rootball. Lift plants from underneath the rootball with the appropriate equipment. Container-grown plants should be handled by the container and never by the tops of the plant. If plants must be held or stored on the landscape site, it is best to place them in a location protected from the wind and sun. Do not let the roots freeze or dry out during this time. If the delay in planting is more then a few days, one should "heel in" B&B material by covering the roots with bark or some other mulch. Supplemental irrigation is critical for the nursery stock during the growing season.

Read this article:
Planting Techniques for Trees and Shrubs | NC State University

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