Gutter Cleaning

It is very important to clean clogged gutters. Clogged Gutters can cause big problems like wet basements, cracked and eroded foundations,and rotting siding often begin from small problems higher up. Gutters are supposed to catch rainwater and snow melt from the roof and funnel it to down spouts, which channel it away from the foundation. Its as elementary as water flowing downstream. But gutters are surprisingly vulnerable.

Expert Gutter RepairThere are many different problems that can arise within a gutter system, but did you know that a lot of them can be repaired? People often assume that regular cleaning and total replacement are the only options with gutters, but thats simply not the case! At Gutter Brothers , our years of experience has taught us a thing or two about repairing gutters. We always advocate for regular cleaning and are experts at total replacement , but we want to see you get as many years as possible out of your gutters first! For that reason, we are happy to repair damage or other issues we think we can mend if possible, if replacement is required or just makes financial sense we will give you the best and most competitive price possible.

Sagging Gutters And Gutters Hanging Off The House or gutters that may have fallen due to heavy snow or ice.

This can happen for a couple of reasons, and usually its a result of the hanger (the part that attaches the gutter to the house). Its possible that they are rusted, worn from age, or have pulled out of the wood or the wood is rotted. If gutters become clogged and weighed down by debris, the weight may be too heavy for the hanger to support. We can replace these hangers, replace rotted fascia boards or simply reattach the gutter if they arent actually damaged.

Improperly Pitched Gutters can be fixed.

This means that the gutter is not slanted enough or the right way towards the downspout for water to properly drain. If you ever notice standing water in the gutter, that means its not pitched correctly towards the downspout and its not functioning as it should. It can be the result of bent gutters (from storm damage, heavy clogs, etc.) or they may have been improperly installed. We fix this to ensure the gutter is in the proper position, or rehanging a portion altogether if need be.

Holes Or Leaks due to storm damage.

Holes and leaks are often the result of large debris or storm damage. Large holes in a gutter can sometimes be patched and sealed, while small holes may only require a sealant. The gutter joints can sometimes pull apart as well, which results in a leak. We fix those leaks by caulking and sealing the joint from the inside of the gutter.

Draining Too Close To The Foundation

Ideally, water should be channeled away from the foundation of the house by several feet on the ground. Otherwise, the water can drain right into the basement and/or cause water damage to the foundation. If youve ever had flooding in your basement, or you can see large pools of water forming right up against the foundation during/after a storm, then this may be why. We remedy this problem by adding gutter extensions to ensure it will drain far enough away from the house. At Gutter Brothers , there is no type of damage that we havent seen at some point, so fear not! If you have a problem, were here to help. gutter maintenance (like regular cleaning and repair) is the first line of defense against water damage to your home. We have The experience of working on every type of residential gutter out there, and were honest and upfront about your options. We take care of your home as if it were our own and will offer the best solutions.

Our Gutter Repair Comes With A 2-year Warranty against workmanship.

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Gutter Cleaning & Repair - THE GUTTER BROTHERS

Despite stiff competition from wood decks, the concrete patio is gaining in popularity as an essential element in today's backyards. According to a survey conducted by the National Association of Home Builders in 2012, concrete is the most popular patio material in the country. In seven of nine geographical regions identified in the study, poured concrete is the most commonly used outdoor surface material in luxury-home construction coming in ahead of concrete pavers and natural stone. With more decorative options than ever before, concrete patios are attracting homeowners who want an outdoor surface that offers the ultimate in design versatility. Concrete patios also have the edge when it comes to durability and low maintenance.

In addition to serving as a gathering zone for lounging and entertaining, concrete patios allow homeowners to seamlessly blend interior and exterior living spaces. They are the perfect decorative flooring surface for outdoor kitchens and living rooms, complete with cozy seating areas, fireplaces and water features. What's more, this outdoor floor offers unlimited design options. When enhanced by stains and integral colors, concrete patios can be color coordinated to match a home's exterior or landscape. They can also be stamped or engraved in patterns that mimic other popular paving materials, such as brick, flagstone, slate and tile.

As an investment, concrete patios typically cost less than patios made of brick or natural stone because they are less labor-intensive to install. The lower price tag combined with the wide array of patterns and colors available make concrete an economical choice for most budgets. Plus, concrete is easily formed into any shape to accommodate backyard space restrictions.

Upgrading your backyard with a decorative concrete patio is also an investment that will provide many years of enjoyment while improving the look of your landscape. Concrete is easy to maintain and can stand up to the harshest of weather conditions. Unlike paving stones, you won't have joints between units where grass and weeds can sprout. And unlike wood, concrete won't warp, rot or require periodic staining.

Here, we offer tips for designing and sizing a concrete patio, give you an overview of the various concrete patio finish options, and tell you about ways you can accessorize and enhance your patio. For people with existing concrete patios, we also tell you about ways to give your old patio a decorative makeover by resurfacing, staining or engraving.

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Concrete Patio - Patio Ideas, Backyard Designs and Photos ...

Marmiro Stones, Inc

Stone, Pavers and Concrete Professionals in Secaucus, NJ

"Purchasing and delivery of material for floor and walls for private residence in the Middle East. This was our latest project with them, but have a long history of working with them in a lot of different projects having nothing but good things to say about their quality and professionalism. Being in the interior design business we haven't encounter any other company with this level of professionalism not only in flooring but in any other discipline."

- Casa Conde and Associates

Stone, Pavers and Concrete Professionals in Secaucus, NJ

"Very professional people to deal with. My garage floor was cracked and needed to be replaced. They did a great job at a fair price."

- Gabriel Munoz

Stone, Pavers and Concrete Professionals in Secaucus, NJ

"Great quality gravel. Bought 3/4 clean, QP, and white sand. All the material I received was better then the local quary. The customer care is also top notch. Always order more. I had multiple reorders and they were faster each time."

- Stephen Fang

Stone, Pavers and Concrete Professionals in Secaucus, NJ

"Cambridge Pavers has been my #1 choice for all projects we done in the last 6 years, I can attest Armortec is a superior process that now many other manufactures are trying to mimic, the passion from the Owner and Sons is clearly one of the reason the company is thriving, along with such amazing products, warranty and customer support, I feel very confident and in good hands recommending their products to all of my clients and allows me to offer a superior warranty along with it."

- Aztlan Outdoor Living

Stone, Pavers and Concrete Professionals in Secaucus, NJ

"Had a total lawn renovation, rip up old lawn, install sod with hedge border along driveway. First and foremost let me state this, the attention to detail Bongiorno provides is nothing short of supreme! They put down the mulch for my edging and I thought it looked great but when his workers got down on their hands and knees and formed the mulch around every bush so it looked perfect, I was very impressed.Owner Chuck is on site all day every day. This was an expensive undertaking and he was the only estimate I got bc after speaking to Chuck I felt I didn't need to look any further. Chuck even drove out to Connecticut to procure the particular hedge I wanted. I have some masonry work I need done in the spring and he's my guy for that too, you won't be disappointed with this company trust!"

- Paula Haber

Stone, Pavers and Concrete Professionals in Secaucus, NJ

"Mike and his sons worked on my Walkway and Side of my drive way. My wife and I are very Happy with there work. I would highly recommend them for future work. They are real pros. and very friendly and very reasonable."

- Vincent Esposito

Stone, Pavers and Concrete Professionals in Secaucus, NJ

"Castro Stoneworks expertly and expeditiously tackled two projects for us while overcoming challenges of elevation and existing natural and man-made structures. The end result exceeded our expectations!1.Our front porch was reworked with stacked stone risers and bluestone deck, and tied into an existing brick walkway and hill.2.In the back yard, our old wood deck was replaced with a 16'x22' bluestone patio and stoop, with stacked stone wall perimeter. We had to contend with a hill and irremovable tree stump. From the initial contact to completion of the project, our experience with Carlos and his team was professional and thorough. We collaborated on design, visited the stone yard for the right stone, and coordinated schedules. Both jobs were completed neatly, on time, and on budget.Carlos Castro is a true artisan who is passionate about the form, function, and quality of each phase of the project. He communicated concerns and provided creative solutions to the inevitable obstacles that present themselves in a project. In addition to the integrity of the work, he truly wants the customer to be happy. This attention to detail and commitment to quality and service was clearly carried out by his team. Our home has been transformed; we highly recommend Castro Stoneworks!"

- gzulkof

Stone, Pavers and Concrete Professionals in Secaucus, NJ

"Joey has a professional, clean and efficient team of guys. They built a brand new, beautiful walkway/ staircase for my front lawn. Everything was well thought out and communicated to me. I would definietly recommend Landwork for any outdoor project you need done. I'm very happy with my new walkway! Thank you Landwork!"

- Emelie Crecco

Stone, Pavers and Concrete Professionals in Secaucus, NJ

"Ive known Roy for many years and familiar with Roy and his teams meticulous work, so I did not hesitate to contact him and trust them with my project. Roy came the same day to give me an estimate. Within a few days, Roy and his team came and got the job done. They work tirelessly to provide top notch work with quality products. They completed stone/tile work around my concrete porch foundation and garage. They also renovated my front yard putting in retaining block walls/planters. The work has transformed my home! I would highly recommend Roy Targia Masonry and his team of hard workers!"

- sally731

Stone, Pavers and Concrete Professionals in Secaucus, NJ

"Since 2011 I have been using ICON contracting for all my outdoor projects. Gerry at ICON redesign all my walks and driveways, front porch & stone work. In addition, Gerry has a talent for gardening and has created a native garden with raised beds and fountain for my back yard. Gerry is courteous, respectful and goes out of his way to listen to what I want. His input is invaluable and he has a good eye for design. I get many compliments on my front yard. I enjoy working with ICON Contracting."

- mlj411

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Secaucus, NJ Stone, Pavers and Concrete Professionals

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The Tile app connects you to the worlds largest lost-and-found community, where friends and strangers work together to find everything that matters. See how its helped people like you.

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Find Your Keys, Wallet & Phone with Tiles App and ...

At Window Genie of Naples, we know how valuable your time is. Your local Window Genie technicians are ready to do the scrubbing and cleaning for you. With our 3-step cleaning process, the streak-free cleaning is done for you. No drips. No streaks. No ladders!

Servicing Naples, Bonita Springs and the surrounding areas.

Rubbing and scrubbing your windows to release the buildup of grease, grime and airborne contaminants.

The glass is squeegeed clean with professional-grade equipment, removing 99.9% of the water and dirt from the pores of the glass.

Edges and sills are wiped clean and dry, leaving behind nothing but sparkling glass.

Window Genie is a regular, repeat service company providing window cleaning and window washing services in Naples. We offer specially designed Window Care programs which are customized to your needs and are discounted based on frequency. With our Window Care program, you are able to create a residential window cleaning schedule that is both affordable and effective at keeping your windows looking clean year round. The idea is simple; the more you use our cleaning services, the more affordable each window cleaning becomes. To learn more about our pricing, and how to save up to 30% off our retail pricing, give us a calland put the Genie to work in your home. Our two most popular window cleaning programs are interior and exterior cleanings every six (6) months, and exterior cleanings every three (3) months. Your individual needs will vary based on your area and variables such as children, pets and the amount of cooking and entertaining that you do.

All Window Genie technicians are coached to provide you with the best service and experience possible. We are all fully insured, bonded, and where necessary, licensed. Unlike the other guys who might show up in a beat-up truck and ripped tank-top, Window Genie employees are uniformed and drive only highly visible, professionally wrapped GENIEMOBILEs. You can use our service in confidence because every window cleaning service is backed by our exclusive Streak-Free Guarantee. This guarantee lets you know that we stand behind everything that we do. If for ANY reason after your window washing service you are not 100% satisfied, call our office and we will return ASAP to correct the problem to your satisfaction. Our promise to our customers is industry leading standards in customer service, professionalism and job quality.

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Window Cleaning Naples | Naples Window Cleaning

If you are looking for the best NY window cleaning services, you are in for a tough search. Big Apple Window Cleaning is making your quest easier by presenting a full specter of window cleaning services at a fair price. Whether you are looking for a new window cleaning company or thinking of taking the window-washing load off your shoulders, Big Apple Window Cleaning is the right place to call. We practice a special approach to window cleaning that brings ideal results in the shortest amount of time. Thanks to our large team of experts, window cleaning in New York has gotten better, faster, and more reliable. No matter how high your windows are or how tough they are to reach, our professional cleaners wont leave until your glass is sparkling.Window cleaning in Manhattan is complicated due to a big variety of windows located at different heights. Without extra training, many window cleaners cant achieve proper results. At Big Apple Window Cleaners, we have many years of experience working with New York residential areas. That is why all our cleanings sessions are fast, precise, and resultative.Our goal is 100% customer satisfaction and we use all our resources to achieve it. We give each client individual attention to make sure all the needs are met in the most excellent manner. We are always open to new ideas and opinions to make your window cleaning experience as enjoyable as possible.What We Do: Provide window cleaning services in NYC and the area, improve each clients experience until reaching 100 % satisfaction, use state-of-the-art window washing equipment, schedule convenient cleaning sessions, adjust prices to suit each individual case, help our clients enjoy a brighter new home, lower energy bills, and a great moodHow We Do It: Hire bright and driven window washers, provide special training for our staff, practice, practice, practice, master new techniques and approaches every day, listen to our clients opinions to improve our services, do what we love the most.If you are ready to change the way your home looks and forget about dirt and streaks on your windows, we are here at your service. At Big Apple Window Cleaning, we are always happy to do any type of window cleaning in Brooklyn, Manhattan, and other NYC area. Give us work and well give you excellent results. Call us today or fill out a quick form. One of our experts will give you an extensive consultation about our services. need, when, dilemma, comes, decide. Residential window cleaning NY comes with a variety of nuances. At Big Apple Window Cleaning, we know this business inside and out. We consider our clients needs and provide the highest quality solutions for all the tasks we face. Whether you need to clean a couple of windows in your apartment or improve the curb appeal of your 10-bedroom house, we are up to the challenge. Our company works all year round to keep your windows squeaky clean. If you schedule regular window cleaning with Big Apple Window Cleaning, you can reap the numerous benefits, starting from a great view and ending with lower energy bills. Keeping your windows clean is important, but what about the rest of the glass surfaces in your home? We take care of skylights, shower cabins, chandelier, glass tables, mirrors, and more. Youd be surprised how bright and shiny your home will look after we do our job. At Big Apple Window Cleaning, we have years of experience working with a variety of buildings in NYC. We take advantage of different access equipment to reach even the toughest spots. Be it a two-story home or 50-floor skyscraper, we can get the job done fast. Depending on your preferences, we can wash your windows inside and out. This can improve the visibility as well as allow more sunshine inside. We recommend all homeowners to consider biannual window washing sessions. Once you take advantage of the regular window cleaning NY, youll understand how your home has changed for the better. At Big Apple Window Cleaning, we have experienced staff, who is training on a regular basis to become better at what they do. We are thankful to our clients for giving us a chance to tackle tough projects. Even if you think your windows cant become clean again, we can prove you wrong. We work on post-construction projects to bring homeowners the brightest and the cleanest windows in the area. Window cleaning is a tough and dangerous job. We prefer you leave it to the professionals. We are always here to take your call and schedule the next window cleaning session. window cleaning. Window cleaning is similar to teeth cleaning. You can do it yourself and get mediocre results or ask for professional help and enjoy clean teeth for 6 months. A professional approach is always the right choice, especially when it comes to your health. Clean windows can improve your mood and allow you to take advantage of Vitamin D. Our experts can do the job faster and better than you can. In the modern world, when everyone is pressed for time, spending the whole day trying to clean your window is a terrible waste. Thats why hiring a professional, who can wash your windows in a couple of hours, is a smart choice. If you are worried about the cost, Big Apple Window Cleaning has a few discounts to offer you. No matter when you decide to order your first window cleaning, we are here to take your call. Window cleaning is similar to teeth cleaning. You can do it yourself and get mediocre results or ask for professional help and enjoy clean teeth for 6 months. A professional approach is always the right choice, especially when it comes to your health. Clean windows can improve your mood and allow you to take advantage of Vitamin D. Our experts can do the job faster and better than you can. In the modern world, when everyone is pressed for time, spending the whole day trying to clean your window is a terrible waste. Thats why hiring a professional, who can wash your windows in a couple of hours, is a smart choice. If you are worried about the cost, Big Apple Window Cleaning has a few discounts to offer you. No matter when you decide to order your first window cleaning, we are here to take your call. If you have any doubts about the quality of our window cleaning, you can read the reviews on the website. Visit our social media pages to see the before and after pictures. Youll be surprised how amazing your windows could look. Its possible to live with dirty windows for years, but why rob yourself of the opportunity to enjoy a better life?

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Window Cleaning - Professional Cleaning Service in New York

Project: Install a Wrought Iron Fence

Date: 07/09/2018

Nature of Project: Replace existing fence

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Fencing material: Wrought Iron

Request Stage: Ready to Hire

Desired Completion Date: Timing is flexible

Comment: Railings for porch and steps

Project: Install a Chain Link Fence

Date: 07/09/2018

Nature of Project: Install a new fence

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Fencing material: Chain Link

Request Stage: Planning & Budgeting

Desired Completion Date: Timing is flexible

Project: Install a Chain Link Fence

Date: 07/02/2018

Nature of Project: Replace existing fence

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Fencing material: Chain Link

Request Stage: Planning & Budgeting

Desired Completion Date: More than 2 weeks

Project: Repair or Partially Replace a Wood Fence

Date: 06/2018

Kind of Repair Needed: Fence is damaged

Fence Height: 4-6 feet

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Property Owner: Yes

Desired Project Start Date: Within a few weeks

Comment: One of the wooden slats was broken off during recent storms. The crossbar support behind this board also cracked.

Project: Install or Replace an Aluminum or Steel Fence

Date: 06/2018

Nature of Project: Install a new fence

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Fencing material: Aluminum or Steel

Request Stage: Planning & Budgeting

Desired Completion Date: 1 - 2 weeks

Comment: .2 acre lot, wooded

Project: Install or Replace an Aluminum or Steel Fence

Date: 06/2018

Nature of Project: Install a new fence

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Fencing material: Aluminum or Steel

Length of Fence: 100 - 200 feet

Request Stage: Ready to Hire

Desired Completion Date: More than 2 weeks

Property Owner: Yes

Comment: building a pool. starting it in 3 weeks. need aluminum fence,,,4' and a safety fence. medium grade minimum 150 linear feet..maybe 175..not sure yet. would like quote for price per linear foot installed plus fence

Project: Install a Chain Link Fence

Date: 06/2018

Request Stage: Planning & Budgeting

Desired Completion Date: More than 2 weeks

Comment: chain link fence install

Project: Repair or Partially Replace a Wood Fence

Date: 06/2018

Kind of Repair Needed: Fence is damaged, Post is damaged

Fence Height: 4-6 feet

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Desired Project Start Date: Within a few weeks

Comment: Privacy fence needs to have some boards replaced and it is leaning.

Project: Install a Chain Link Fence

Date: 06/2018

Nature of Project: Install a new fence

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Fencing material: Chain Link

Length of Fence: 100 - 200 feet

Request Stage: Planning & Budgeting

Desired Completion Date: Timing is flexible

Property Owner: Yes

Comment: Need chain link fence with one double gate installed on th4ee perimeter of back yard for doggie purposes

Project: Repair or Alter a Chain Link Fence

Date: 06/2018

Nature of Project: Repair existing fence

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Fencing material: Chain Link

Length of Fence: Less than 100 feet

Request Stage: Ready to Hire

Desired Completion Date: Timing is flexible

Property Owner: Yes

Comment: Section of fencing missing from corner post to side of home.

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Fence Contractors in Greenville, SC - HomeAdvisor.com

Project: Install a Wood Fence

Date: 07/08/2018

Nature of Project: Install a new fence

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Fencing material: Wood

Length of Fence: Unsure

Request Stage: Planning & Budgeting

Desired Completion Date: 1 - 2 weeks

Property Owner: Yes

Comment: Installation of fence per Ashburn Farm HOA architectural standards

Project: Install a Wood Fence

Date: 07/08/2018

Nature of Project: Replace existing fence

Request Stage: Planning & Budgeting

Desired Completion Date: Timing is flexible

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Project: Install a Wood Fence

Date: 07/06/2018

Nature of Project: Install a new fence

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Fencing material: Wood

Request Stage: Ready to Hire

Desired Completion Date: Timing is flexible

Project: Install a Wood Fence

Date: 07/06/2018

Nature of Project: Install a new fence

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Fencing material: Wood

Request Stage: Ready to Hire

Desired Completion Date: Within 1 week

Comment: Fence along right and left sides of back yard

Project: Install a Wood Fence

Date: 07/04/2018

Nature of Project: Install a new fence

Fence Height: Greater than 8 feet

Length of Fence: Less than 100 feet

Purpose of Fence: Keep children safely in yard, Attractive yard addition, Property boundary, Provide privacy

Request Stage: Planning & Budgeting

Desired Completion Date: Within 1 week

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Property Owner: Yes

Comment: fence for the backyard

Project: Install a Wood Fence

Date: 07/04/2018

Nature of Project: Install a new fence

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Fencing material: Wood

Request Stage: Ready to Hire

Desired Completion Date: Timing is flexible

Project: Install a Wood Fence

Date: 07/03/2018

Nature of Project: Install a new fence

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Fencing material: Wood

Length of Fence: Less than 100 feet

Request Stage: Planning & Budgeting

Desired Completion Date: 1 - 2 weeks

Property Owner: Yes

Comment: Looking for estimates to install a new wood fence for my backyard. timeframe for work is by end of summer.

Project: Install a Wood Fence

Date: 07/02/2018

Nature of Project: Install a new fence

Fence Height: Less than 4 feet

Length of Fence: Unsure

Purpose of Fence: Keep pets contained

Request Stage: Ready to Hire

Desired Completion Date: 1 - 2 weeks

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Property Owner: Yes

Comment: Need a rail wood fence (we have one on back of property and want to match and add wire to keep dog in). We would like it priced with and without adding a stone columns on corners.

Project: Repair or Partially Replace a Wood Fence

Date: 07/02/2018

Kind of Repair Needed: Fence is damaged

Fence Height: 4-6 feet

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Property Owner: Yes

Desired Project Start Date: Tomorrow

Comment: Fence is damaged and needs repair.

Project: Install a Wood Fence

Date: 07/01/2018

Request Stage: Ready to Hire

Desired Completion Date: Within 1 week

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

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Fence Contractors in Ashburn, VA - HomeAdvisor.com

Electrical wiring is an electrical installation of cabling and associated devices such as switches, distribution boards, sockets and light fittings in a structure.

Wiring is subject to safety standards for design and installation. Allowable wire and cable types and sizes are specified according to the circuit operating voltage and electric current capability, with further restrictions on the environmental conditions, such as ambient temperature range, moisture levels, and exposure to sunlight and chemicals.

Associated circuit protection, control and distribution devices within a building's wiring system are subject to voltage, current and functional specification. Wiring safety codes vary by locality, country or region. The International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) is attempting to harmonise wiring standards amongst member countries, but significant variations in design and installation requirements still exist.

Wiring installation codes and regulations are intended to protect people and property from electrical shock and fire hazards. They are usually based on a model code (with or without local amendments) produced by a national or international standards organisation, such as the IEC.

In Australia and New Zealand, the AS/NZS 3000 standard, commonly known as the "wiring rules", specifies requirements for the selection and installation of electrical equipment, and the design and testing of such installations. The standard is mandatory in both New Zealand and Australia; therefore, all electrical work covered by the standard must comply.

In European countries, an attempt has been made to harmonise national wiring standards in an IEC standard, IEC 60364 Electrical Installations for Buildings. Hence national standards follow an identical system of sections and chapters. However, this standard is not written in such language that it can readily be adopted as a national wiring code. Neither is it designed for field use by electrical tradesmen and inspectors for testing compliance with national wiring standards. By contrast, national codes, such as the NEC or CSA C22.1, generally exemplify the common objectives of IEC 60364, but provide specific rules in a form that allows for guidance of those installing and inspecting electrical systems.

In Germany, DKE (the German Commission for Electrical, Electronic and Information Technologies of DIN and VDE) is the organisation responsible for the promulgation of electrical standards and safety specifications. DIN VDE 0100 is the German wiring regulations document harmonised with IEC 60364.

The first electrical codes in the United States originated in New York in 1881 to regulate installations of electric lighting. Since 1897 the US National Fire Protection Association, a private non-profit association formed by insurance companies, has published the National Electrical Code (NEC). States, counties or cities often include the NEC in their local building codes by reference along with local differences. The NEC is modified every three years. It is a consensus code considering suggestions from interested parties. The proposals are studied by committees of engineers, tradesmen, manufacturer representatives, fire fighters and other invitees.

Since 1927, the Canadian Standards Association (CSA) has produced the Canadian Safety Standard for Electrical Installations, which is the basis for provincial electrical codes. The CSA also produces the Canadian Electrical Code, the 2006 edition of which references IEC 60364 (Electrical Installations for Buildings) and states that the code addresses the fundamental principles of electrical protection in Section 131. The Canadian code reprints Chapter 13 of IEC 60364, but there are no numerical criteria listed in that chapter to assess the adequacy of any electrical installation.

Although the US and Canadian national standards deal with the same physical phenomena and broadly similar objectives, they differ occasionally in technical detail. As part of the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) program, US and Canadian standards are slowly converging toward each other, in a process known as harmonisation.

In the United Kingdom, wiring installations are regulated by the Institution of Engineering and Technology Requirements for Electrical Installations: IEE Wiring Regulations, BS 7671: 2008, which are harmonised with IEC 60364. The 17th edition (issued in January 2008) includes new sections for microgeneration and solar photovoltaic systems. The first edition was published in 1882.

In a typical electrical code, some colour-coding of wires is mandatory. Many local rules and exceptions exist per country, state or region.[1] Older installations vary in colour codes, and colours may fade with insulation exposure to heat, light and ageing.

As of March 2011, the European Committee for Electrotechnical Standardization (CENELEC) requires the use of green/yellow colour cables as protective conductors, blue as neutral conductors and brown as single-phase conductors.[2]

The United States National Electrical Code requires a bare copper, or green or green/yellow insulated protective conductor, a white or grey neutral, with any other color used for single phase. The NEC also requires the "high leg" conductor of a High-leg delta or "bastard-leg" system to have orange insulation.

The introduction of the NEC clearly states that it is not intended to be a design manual, and therefore, creating a color code for ungrounded or "hot" conductors falls outside the scope and purpose of the NEC. However, it is a common misconception that "hot" conductor color-coding is required by the Code.

In the United States, color-coding of three-phase system conductors follows a de facto standard, wherein black, red, and blue are used for three-phase 120/208-volt systems, and brown, orange, and yellow are used in 277/480-volt systems. In buildings with multiple voltage systems, the grounded conductors (neutrals) of both systems are required to be identified and made distinguishable to avoid cross-system connections. Most often, 120/208-volt systems use white insulation, while 277/480-volt systems use gray insulation, although this particular color code is not currently an explicit requirement of the NEC.[3]

The United Kingdom requires the use of wire covered with green/yellow striped insulation, for safety earthing (grounding) connections.[4] This growing international standard was adopted for its distinctive appearance, to reduce the likelihood of dangerous confusion of safety earthing (grounding) wires with other electrical functions, especially by persons affected by red-green colour blindness.

In the UK, phases could be identified as being live by using coloured indicator lights: red, yellow and blue. The new cable colours of brown, black and grey do not lend themselves to coloured indicators. For this reason, three-phase control panels will often use indicator lights of the old colours.[5]

Materials for wiring interior electrical systems in buildings vary depending on:

Wiring systems in a single family home or duplex, for example, are simple, with relatively low power requirements, infrequent changes to the building structure and layout, usually with dry, moderate temperature and non-corrosive environmental conditions. In a light commercial environment, more frequent wiring changes can be expected, large apparatus may be installed and special conditions of heat or moisture may apply. Heavy industries have more demanding wiring requirements, such as very large currents and higher voltages, frequent changes of equipment layout, corrosive, or wet or explosive atmospheres. In facilities that handle flammable gases or liquids, special rules may govern the installation and wiring of electrical equipment in hazardous areas.

Wires and cables are rated by the circuit voltage, temperature rating and environmental conditions (moisture, sunlight, oil, chemicals) in which they can be used. A wire or cable has a voltage (to neutral) rating and a maximum conductor surface temperature rating. The amount of current a cable or wire can safely carry depends on the installation conditions.

The international standard wire sizes are given in the IEC 60228 standard of the International Electrotechnical Commission. In North America, the American Wire Gauge standard for wire sizes is used.

Modern non-metallic sheathed cables, such as (US and Canadian) Types NMB and NMC, consist of two to four wires covered with thermoplastic insulation, plus a bare wire for grounding (bonding), surrounded by a flexible plastic jacket. Some versions wrap the individual conductors in paper before the plastic jacket is applied.

Special versions of non-metallic sheathed cables, such as US Type UF, are designed for direct underground burial (often with separate mechanical protection) or exterior use where exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UV) is a possibility. These cables differ in having a moisture-resistant construction, lacking paper or other absorbent fillers, and being formulated for UV resistance.

Rubber-like synthetic polymer insulation is used in industrial cables and power cables installed underground because of its superior moisture resistance.

Insulated cables are rated by their allowable operating voltage and their maximum operating temperature at the conductor surface. A cable may carry multiple usage ratings for applications, for example, one rating for dry installations and another when exposed to moisture or oil.

Generally, single conductor building wire in small sizes is solid wire, since the wiring is not required to be very flexible. Building wire conductors larger than 10 AWG (or about 6mm) are stranded for flexibility during installation, but are not sufficiently pliable to use as appliance cord.

Cables for industrial, commercial and apartment buildings may contain many insulated conductors in an overall jacket, with helical tape steel or aluminium armour, or steel wire armour, and perhaps as well an overall PVC or lead jacket for protection from moisture and physical damage. Cables intended for very flexible service or in marine applications may be protected by woven bronze wires. Power or communications cables (e.g., computer networking) that are routed in or through air-handling spaces (plenums) of office buildings are required under the model building code to be either encased in metal conduit, or rated for low flame and smoke production.

For some industrial uses in steel mills and similar hot environments, no organic material gives satisfactory service. Cables insulated with compressed mica flakes are sometimes used. Another form of high-temperature cable is a mineral insulated cable, with individual conductors placed within a copper tube and the space filled with magnesium oxide powder. The whole assembly is drawn down to smaller sizes, thereby compressing the powder. Such cables have a certified fire resistance rating and are more costly than non-fire rated cable. They have little flexibility and behave more like rigid conduit rather than flexible cables.

The environment of the installed wires determine how much current a cable is permitted to carry. Because multiple conductors bundled in a cable cannot dissipate heat as easily as single insulated conductors, those circuits are always rated at a lower "ampacity". Tables in electrical safety codes give the maximum allowable current based on size of conductor, voltage potential, insulation type and thickness, and the temperature rating of the cable itself. The allowable current will also be different for wet or dry locations, for hot (attic) or cool (underground) locations. In a run of cable through several areas, the part with the lowest rating becomes the rating of the overall run.

Cables usually are secured with special fittings where they enter electrical apparatus; this may be a simple screw clamp for jacketed cables in a dry location, or a polymer-gasketed cable connector that mechanically engages the armour of an armoured cable and provides a water-resistant connection. Special cable fittings may be applied to prevent explosive gases from flowing in the interior of jacketed cables, where the cable passes through areas where flammable gases are present. To prevent loosening of the connections of individual conductors of a cable, cables must be supported near their entrance to devices and at regular intervals along their runs. In tall buildings, special designs are required to support the conductors of vertical runs of cable. Generally, only one cable per fitting is permitted, unless the fitting is rated or listed for multiple cables.

Special cable constructions and termination techniques are required for cables installed in ships. Such assemblies are subjected to environmental and mechanical extremes. Therefore, in addition to electrical and fire safety concerns, such cables may also be required to be pressure-resistant where they penetrate a vessel's bulkheads. They must also resist corrosion caused by salt water or salt spray, which is accomplished through the use of thicker, specially constructed jackets, and by tinning the individual wire stands.

In North American practice, an overhead cable from a transformer on a power pole to a residential electrical service usually consists of three twisted (triplexed) conductors, with one being a bare neutral conductor, with the other two being the insulated conductors for both of the two 180 degree out of phase 120 V line voltages normally supplied.[8] The neutral conductor is often a supporting "messenger" steel wire, which is used to support the insulated Line conductors.

Electrical devices often contain copper conductors because of their multiple beneficial properties, including their high electrical conductivity, tensile strength, ductility, creep resistance, corrosion resistance, thermal conductivity, coefficient of thermal expansion, solderability, resistance to electrical overloads, compatibility with electrical insulators and ease of installation.

Despite competition from other materials, copper remains the preferred electrical conductor in nearly all categories of electrical wiring.[9][10] For example, copper is used to conduct electricity in high, medium and low voltage power networks, including power generation, power transmission, power distribution, telecommunications, electronics circuitry, data processing, instrumentation, appliances, entertainment systems, motors, transformers, heavy industrial machinery and countless other types of electrical equipment.[11]

Aluminium wire was common in North American residential wiring from the late 1960s to mid-1970s due to the rising cost of copper. Because of its greater resistivity, aluminium wiring requires larger conductors than copper. For instance, instead of 14 AWG (American wire gauge) copper wire, aluminium wiring would need to be 12 AWG on a typical 15 ampere lighting circuit, though local building codes vary.

Solid aluminum conductors were originally made in the 1960s from a utility grade aluminum alloy that had undesirable properties for a building wire, and were used with wiring devices intended for copper conductors.[12][13] These practices were found to cause defective connections and potential fire hazards. In the early-1970s new aluminum wire made from one of several special alloys was introduced, and all devices breakers, switches, receptacles, splice connectors, wire nuts, etc. were specially designed for the purpose. These newer aluminum wires and special designs address problems with junctions between dissimilar metals, oxidation on metal surfaces and mechanical effects that occur as different metals expand at different rates with increases in temperature.[citation needed]

Unlike copper, aluminium has a tendency to creep or cold-flow under pressure, so older plain steel screw clamped connections could become loose over time. Newer electrical devices designed for aluminum conductors have features intended to compensate for this effect. Unlike copper, aluminium forms an insulating oxide layer on the surface. This is sometimes addressed by coating aluminium conductors with an antioxidant paste (containing zinc dust in a low-residue polybutene base[14]) at joints, or by applying a mechanical termination designed to break through the oxide layer during installation.

Some terminations on wiring devices designed only for copper wire would overheat under heavy current load and cause fires when used with aluminum conductors. Revised standards for wire materials and wiring devices (such as the CO/ALR "copper-aluminium-revised" designation) were developed to reduce these problems. While larger sizes are still used to feed power to electrical panels and large devices, aluminium wiring for residential use has acquired a poor reputation and has fallen out of favour.

Aluminium conductors are still heavily used for bulk power distribution and large feeder circuits with heavy current loads, due to the various advantages they offer over copper wiring. Aluminium conductors both cost and weigh less than copper conductors, so a much larger cross sectional area can be used for the same weight and price. This can compensate for the higher resistance and lower mechanical strength of aluminum, meaning the larger cross sectional area is needed to achieve comparable current capacity and other features. Aluminium conductors must be installed with compatible connectors and special care must be taken to ensure the contact surface does not oxidise.

Insulated wires may be run in one of several forms between electrical devices. This may be a specialised bendable pipe, called a conduit, or one of several varieties of metal (rigid steel or aluminium) or non-metallic (PVC or HDPE) tubing. Rectangular cross-section metal or PVC wire troughs (North America) or trunking (UK) may be used if many circuits are required. Wires run underground may be run in plastic tubing encased in concrete, but metal elbows may be used in severe pulls. Wiring in exposed areas, for example factory floors, may be run in cable trays or rectangular raceways having lids.

Where wiring, or raceways that hold the wiring, must traverse fire-resistance rated walls and floors, the openings are required by local building codes to be firestopped. In cases where safety-critical wiring must be kept operational during an accidental fire, fireproofing must be applied to maintain circuit integrity in a manner to comply with a product's certification listing. The nature and thickness of any passive fire protection materials used in conjunction with wiring and raceways has a quantifiable impact upon the ampacity derating, because the thermal insulation properties needed for fire resistance also inhibit air cooling of power conductors.

Cable trays are used in industrial areas where many insulated cables are run together. Individual cables can exit the tray at any point, simplifying the wiring installation and reducing the labour cost for installing new cables. Power cables may have fittings in the tray to maintain clearance between the conductors, but small control wiring is often installed without any intentional spacing between cables.

Local electrical regulations may restrict or place special requirements on mixing of voltage levels within one cable tray. Good design practices may segregate, for example, low level measurement or signal cables from trays carrying high power branch circuits, to prevent induction of noise into sensitive circuits.

Since wires run in conduits or underground cannot dissipate heat as easily as in open air, and since adjacent circuits contribute induced currents, wiring regulations give rules to establish the current capacity (ampacity).

Special sealed fittings are used for wiring routed through potentially explosive atmospheres.

For very high currents in electrical apparatus, and for high currents distributed through a building, bus bars can be used. (The term "bus" is a contraction of the Latin omnibus meaning "for all".) Each live conductor of such a system is a rigid piece of copper or aluminium, usually in flat bars (but sometimes as tubing or other shapes). Open bus bars are never used in publicly accessible areas, although they are used in manufacturing plants and power company switch yards to gain the benefit of air cooling. A variation is to use heavy cables, especially where it is desirable to transpose or "roll" phases.

In industrial applications, conductor bars are often pre-assembled with insulators in grounded enclosures. This assembly, known as bus duct or busway, can be used for connections to large switchgear or for bringing the main power feed into a building. A form of bus duct known as "plug-in bus" is used to distribute power down the length of a building; it is constructed to allow tap-off switches or motor controllers to be installed at designated places along the bus. The big advantage of this scheme is the ability to remove or add a branch circuit without removing voltage from the whole duct.

Bus ducts may have all phase conductors in the same enclosure (non-isolated bus), or may have each conductor separated by a grounded barrier from the adjacent phases (segregated bus). For conducting large currents between devices, a cable bus is used.[further explanation needed]

For very large currents in generating stations or substations, where it is difficult to provide circuit protection, an isolated-phase bus is used. Each phase of the circuit is run in a separate grounded metal enclosure. The only fault possible is a phase-to-ground fault, since the enclosures are separated. This type of bus can be rated up to 50,000 amperes and up to hundreds of kilovolts (during normal service, not just for faults), but is not used for building wiring in the conventional sense.

Electrical panels are easily accessible junction boxes used to reroute and switch electrical services. The term is often used to refer to circuit breaker panels or fuseboxes. Local codes can specify physical clearance around the panels.

Rasberry crazy ants have been known to consume the insides of electrical wiring installations, preferring DC over AC currents. This behaviour is not well understood by scientists.[15]

Squirrels, rats and other rodents may gnaw on unprotected wiring, causing fire and shock hazards.[16][17] This is especially true of PVC-insulated telephone and computer network cables. Several techniques have been developed to deter these pests, including insulation loaded with pepper dust.

The first interior power wiring systems used conductors that were bare or covered with cloth, which were secured by staples to the framing of the building or on running boards. Where conductors went through walls, they were protected with cloth tape. Splices were done similarly to telegraph connections, and soldered for security. Underground conductors were insulated with wrappings of cloth tape soaked in pitch, and laid in wooden troughs which were then buried. Such wiring systems were unsatisfactory because of the danger of electrocution and fire, plus the high labour cost for such installations.The first Electrical codes arose in the 1880s with the commercial introduction of electrical power, however, many conflicting standards existed for the selection of wire sizes and other design rules for electrical installations, and a need was seen to introduce uniformity on the grounds of safety.

The earliest standardised method of wiring in buildings, in common use in North America from about 1880 to the 1930s, was knob and tube (K&T) wiring: single conductors were run through cavities between the structural members in walls and ceilings, with ceramic tubes forming protective channels through joists and ceramic knobs attached to the structural members to provide air between the wire and the lumber and to support the wires. Since air was free to circulate over the wires, smaller conductors could be used than required in cables. By arranging wires on opposite sides of building structural members, some protection was afforded against short-circuits that can be caused by driving a nail into both conductors simultaneously.

By the 1940s, the labour cost of installing two conductors rather than one cable resulted in a decline in new knob-and-tube installations. However, the US code still allows new K&T wiring installations in special situations (some rural and industrial applications).

In the United Kingdom, an early form of insulated cable,[18] introduced in 1896, consisted of two impregnated-paper-insulated conductors in an overall lead sheath. Joints were soldered, and special fittings were used for lamp holders and switches. These cables were similar to underground telegraph and telephone cables of the time. Paper-insulated cables proved unsuitable for interior wiring installations because very careful workmanship was required on the lead sheaths to ensure moisture did not affect the insulation.

A system later invented in the UK in 1908 employed vulcanised-rubber insulated wire enclosed in a strip metal sheath. The metal sheath was bonded to each metal wiring device to ensure earthing continuity.

A system developed in Germany called "Kuhlo wire" used one, two, or three rubber-insulated wires in a brass or lead-coated iron sheet tube, with a crimped seam. The enclosure could also be used as a return conductor. Kuhlo wire could be run exposed on surfaces and painted, or embedded in plaster. Special outlet and junction boxes were made for lamps and switches, made either of porcelain or sheet steel. The crimped seam was not considered as watertight as the Stannos wire used in England, which had a soldered sheath.[19]

A somewhat similar system called "concentric wiring" was introduced in the United States around 1905. In this system, an insulated electrical wire was wrapped with copper tape which was then soldered, forming the grounded (return) conductor of the wiring system. The bare metal sheath, at earth potential, was considered safe to touch. While companies such as General Electric manufactured fittings for the system and a few buildings were wired with it, it was never adopted into the US National Electrical Code. Drawbacks of the system were that special fittings were required, and that any defect in the connection of the sheath would result in the sheath becoming energised.[20]

Armoured cables with two rubber-insulated conductors in a flexible metal sheath were used as early as 1906, and were considered at the time a better method than open knob-and-tube wiring, although much more expensive.

The first rubber-insulated cables for USA building wiring were introduced in 1922 with US patent 1458803, Burley, Harry & Rooney, Henry, "Insulated electric wire", issued 1923-06-12, assigned to Boston Insulated Wire And Cable.[citation needed] These were two or more solid copper electrical wires with rubber insulation, plus woven cotton cloth over each conductor for protection of the insulation, with an overall woven jacket, usually impregnated with tar as a protection from moisture. Waxed paper was used as a filler and separator.

Over time, rubber-insulated cables become brittle because of exposure to atmospheric oxygen, so they must be handled with care and are usually replaced during renovations. When switches, socket outlets or light fixtures are replaced, the mere act of tightening connections may cause hardened insulation to flake off the conductors. Rubber insulation further inside the cable often is in better condition than the insulation exposed at connections, due to reduced exposure to oxygen.

The sulphur in vulcanised rubber insulation attacked bare copper wire so the conductors were tinned to prevent this. The conductors reverted to being bare when rubber ceased to be used.

About 1950, PVC insulation and jackets were introduced, especially for residential wiring. About the same time, single conductors with a thinner PVC insulation and a thin nylon jacket (e.g. US Type THN, THHN, etc.) became common.[citation needed]

The simplest form of cable has two insulated conductors twisted together to form a unit. Such un-jacketed cables with two (or more) conductors are used only for extra low voltage signal and control applications such as doorbell wiring.

Other methods of securing wiring that are now obsolete include:

Metal moulding systems, with a flattened oval section consisting of a base strip and a snap-on cap channel, were more costly than open wiring or wooden moulding, but could be easily run on wall surfaces. Similar surface mounted raceway wiring systems are still available today.

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Electrical wiring - Wikipedia

House wrap or sheathing insulation board that helps insulate and level out the exterior of a house is recommended.

Some manufacturers strongly recommend against the use of drop-in type foam or fiberboard behind its vinyl siding. This type of insulation may change and flatten the specialty built-in contour of the panel, causing the siding to bulge or ripple.

1. Snap chalk line.Find the lowest corner of the old siding or sheathing on the house. Partly drive a nail 11/2 in. higher than the lowest corner. Stretch a chalk line from this nail to a similar nail at next corner. Be sure line is level. Snap chalk line and repeat same procedure around entire house.

2. Installing starter strip.Position starter strip with the top edge of chalk line and allow room for corner posts. Nail to wall, following nailing instructions in Important Installation Tips. When the wall surface is uneven, shim out the starter strip to avoid a wavy appearance in the finished siding job. Drive nails to remove excessive play in starter, but do not nail tightly restricting movement. As you add starter strip sections, be sure to leave 1/4 in. space between strips for expansion [fig. D]

3. Installing inside corner posts.Inside corner posts are installed at the existing corners, running from 3/4 in. below the bottom of the starter strip. If vinyl soffit is to be installed, allow proper distance below the underside of eaves for soffit installation accessories (which vary according to the accessory used). Set corner posts straight and true. Nail them to the adjoining walls, beginning at the top, placing nails at the top of the uppermost nailing slots, allowing the posts to hang on these nails. The rest of the nails should be placed every 8 in. to 12 in. in the center of the nail slots. This will allow vertical expansion of the corner posts. Do not nail tight.

4. Splicing inside corner posts.If more than one length of inside corner post is required, make a splice as follows: Cut 1 in. off all but the outer face of the upper portion of the lower corner post. Then lay 3/4 in. of the upper post over the lower post, allowing 1/4 in. for expansion [fig. E].

5. Installing outside corner posts.Position the outside corner post to allow 1/4 in. gap at the top where the post will meet the eaves. Cut the post long enough to extend past the bottom of the starter strip by 3/4 in. If vinyl soffit is to be installed, allow proper distances (which vary according to the accessory used) below the underside of the eaves. Attach the posts by placing a nail in the top of the upper slot on each side. Posts will hang on these two nails. The rest of the nails should be placed in the center of the slots, 8 in. to 12 in. on center. This allows for expansion and contraction to occur at the bottom. Do not nail tight.

6. Splicing outside corner posts.If more than one length of outside corner post is required, make a splice as follows: cut 1 in. of the nailing flanges and receiving channel stops away from the bottom portion of the upper post. Then lap 3/4 in. of the upper post over the lower post allowing 1/4 in. for expansion [fig. F].

7. Capping outside corner posts.Cut 2 1/2 in. flaps as shown in Fig. G. Bend the flaps to close off the post. A rivet can be used if needed.

8. Installing J channel around windows and doors.Install J channel around all four sides of window and doors. Install the J channel against the casing and nail it to the wall, following nailing instructions in Important Installation Tips. Do not nail tight. [fig. H].

9. Square corner J channel installation.Cut and install bottom J flush with the sides of the window casing. Install side J channels flush with the lower face of the bottom J channel and with the top of the window casing. Cut a tab in the bottom of the side J channels and fold under. Cut and install top J flush with the outer face of the side Js. Cut and bend drain tab.

10. Mitering corners of the J channel.Install bottom J channel to extend past side casing the width of the J-face on each end. Cut out a 3/4 in. notch in the back of each end and install. Cut a 3/4 in. notch in the bottom of side J channels and bend tab. Miter bottom side J to give a false mitered appearance when installed.

11. Installing first siding panel.Snap bottom of panel into starter strip and nail to wall as in Important Installation Tips. Begin panel installation at back corner of house and work toward house front. Leave a 1/4 in. space where panel butts corner post. Note: siding should be lapped away from high traffic areas, i.e., doors, sidewalks, etc.

12. Overlap joints.Overlap each panel 1 in. to 11/4 in. of the factory prenotched cutouts. Last nail should be at least 10 in. from end of panel to allow neat lap.

13. Installing balance of siding.After completing the first course, work your way up. Start each course at back of house and continue toward front. Stagger joints properly, lapping them away from street and entrance. Leave a 1/4 in. gap where panels butt corner posts and J channel around window. Allow 3/8 in. when installing in freezing weather (below 40) [fig. I]. Note: For best visual appearance, do not stair step or concentrate lap joints too closely.

14. Fitting siding under windows.When you reach a window, you probably will have to cut siding panel to fit under the opening. Make this panel extend on both sides of the window. Measure the panel to fit. Holding the siding panel under the window, mark the width of the opening on the panel allowing 1/4 in. clearance on each window side. Next, lock a scrap piece of siding into the panel below, butting against the window. Mark the height needed, allowing 1/4 in. clearance below the sill. Measure both sides of the window opening this way. Use the scrap piece as a guide to mark horizontal cuts on the siding panel [fig. J].

15. Cutting siding to fit.Make vertical cuts on the siding panel with saw or snips. Then score horizontally with a utility knife and snap out section to be removed.

16. Cutting siding around window.Install undersill trim the width of the window flush to the casing. Furring may be necessary to maintain proper pitch of the siding. Using the snap-lock punch, punch the panel 1/4 in. below the cut edge at 6 in. intervals. The resulting raised lugs should face outward and will snap into undersill trim.

17. Fitting siding over windows.Measure and cut panel to fit. Measure and cut panel in the same manner detailed in step 14 but cut lower portion instead of top. Be sure to check both sides for proper fit. Install panel. Drop siding panel into J channel around top of window and install.

18. Finishing top row of siding under eaves.Nail the undersill trim to the sidewall, flush with the eave of house. It may be necessary to fur out the undersill trim to maintain proper pitch of the top siding panel. More than one length of undersill trim may be required under the eave and will need to be spliced.

19. Fitting top siding panel.Measure and cut top panel to fit. To determine how much of the top panel must be cut off, measure the distance between the top of under-sill trim and the lock of the panel below, then deduct 1/4 in. Cut top siding panel to this dimension. The panel will no longer have a nailing strip after cutting [fig. K].

20. Snap locking top panel.Punch top panel with snap-lock punch. Insert cut panel into trim and draw a line on panel where they meet. Usingsnap-lock punch tool, punch the panel on top of this lineevery 6 in. so raised material is on the outside face.

21. Installing top panel.Lock bottom of panel into panel below and push top edge into undersill trim. The raised slots will catch and hold the panel firmly in place. DO NOT FACE NAIL SIDING.

22. Finishing top course under gable.First nail J channel to sidewall flush with gable as described in Important Installation Tips. If more than one length of J channel is required to finish one side of gable, a splice will be needed. To cut panels on proper angle, use two scrap pieces of siding to make a pattern for cutting. Interlock one panel with the siding panel below, hold the other piece on top against the gable. Then mark a line on bottom piece and cut. This piece is now a pattern for cutting panels to fit along one side of gable. Follow the same procedure to make pattern for other side [fig. L]. Lock pre-cut siding panel into siding panel below and slide siding panel into J channel.

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