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SISIS Autoslit - Bowling Green Maintenance
The SISIS Autoslit is a powered deep slitter for use on fine or outfield turf, including golf course, lawns and amenities with deep, clean penetration with m...

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Your lawn and your garden are extensions of your home, and should get the same care and grooming that the rest of your home does. Now landscaping work doesnt have to require back-breaking labor. With the right landscaping tools from Amazon.com, you can mow, blow, saw, and prune to your hearts content without breaking a sweat.

We have all sorts of landscaping tools to help you out with your lawn work. In our collection of lawn mowers, youll definitely find something suited just for your needs. Everything from ride-on models, gas-powered push lawn mowers, and hand-powered push reel lawn mowers are here for you to browse. To clip and snip edgings, hedges and more, we even carry an assortment of string trimmer and hedge trimmers to make adding the finishing touches to your garden a breeze. If you like to do everything by hand, you can do that too with our handheld landscaping tools, such as shears, shovels, rakes and more.

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Amazon.com: Mowers & Outdoor Power Tools: Patio, Lawn & Garden ...

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services include: Pre-Emergent & Targeted Weed Control Fertilization Grub Prevention and Control

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No matter the size of your yard, the Home Depot has everything you need for lawn care this spring. Maintaining a beautiful yard can be rewarding and fun, and we can help you with all of your DIY lawn care needs. We have a huge selection of lawn care products to get you growing this season such as grass seed, lawn sprayers and dusters, and spreaders. Our wide range of products can even help if youre interested in organic lawn care with items like organic fertilizer, weed killer and lawn disease and insect control. Plus, information from our experts can give you the knowledge for what types of grass to plant in your yard and important tips for maintaining a lush, green lawn. We can also help you ensure that youre using the right kind of soil, which is the key building block of any great lawn. And after your lawn has begun to grow and thrive, we can help with landscaping tips to make it even more beautiful and add your personal touch. Once your yard is in tip top shape, its important to keep it that way with hedge trimmers, cultivators and other garden tools. And, finally, complete the look of your backyard with our huge variety of patio furniture and accessories. Visit homedepot.com or your local Home Depot store for the widest selection of lawn care products at the best prices and join our Garden Club for the latest tips and advice.

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home section Interior Design Housekeeping Entertaining Home Improvement Gardening & Plants Landscaping eHow Home & Garden Garden & Lawn Lawn Maintenance Lawn Treatments

Mary Lougee

Mary Lougee is a writer in Texas who writes on a wide variety of subjects from home improvement to pet care. Her love of animals led to building a farm and caring for rescue animals from equine and swine to dogs and cats. She holds a bachelor's degree in management.

Sometimes it takes a bit of work in order to keep a lawn looking nice. They need watering in the heat of the summer and fertilizer in the spring, and both summer heat and freezing winters can take a real toll on a lawn. There are treatments for lawns that will correct most problems and help produce a lush green carpet of grass.

In the heat of the summer, water evaporates at a much quicker rate than other times of the year. A deep watering every two to three days will be more advantageous to your lawn than a shorter daily watering, and will aid in disease control by not keeping the lawn saturated for long periods of time.

When you mow your lawn it is best not to mow the grass too short to avoid damaging the roots and slowing down the growing process. Most lawns should only be mowed to three or four inches.

There are many diseases associated with lawn grasses. Some fungi will turn the individual blades of grass a light green to yellow color and then brown. Gray leaf spot and brown patch are the most common that occur. The affected areas are noticeable in shady areas or lower areas in the yard that hold water. Those are common diseases associated with tall fescue, ryegrass and St. Augustine grasses due to the thick root-thatch of such varieties.

De-thatching your lawn occasionally will prevent the growth of such fungi, but if they already are apparent, application of a fungicide should kill the disease. You can apply granules with a spreader and water them in, or use a powder diluted with water to spray on the lawn, or use a pre-mixed liquid and a sprayer. Some of the major brands include fungicides from Fungonil, Spectracide and Bonide.

Chinch bugs and grubs may cause damaze to lawns. Chinch bugs are very tiny at 1/5 of an inch long and have a triangle on their white wings. Grub worms are beetle larvae look like small, fat worms. If infested with such insects, the grass will start appearing brown next to sidewalks and driveways first and then spread through the lawn with large brown patches. An application of a liquid insecticide such as Diazinon, NPD or Propoxur will help treat the problem.

A common lawn disease in the humid wet summer is mushrooms. Many people will just kick them over and think their problem is solved. The underlying cause of the deterioration of grass by mushroom growth is that they deplete the soil of nutrients so the grass appears sickly. The only way to solve this kind of problem is to dig the soil up around the mushroom bottom and apply a weed killer to the area. The entire lawn does not need to be treated in this instance, but only the area around the mushrooms.

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Lawn Treatments | eHow - eHow | How to Videos, Articles & More ...

By Allyn Paul, filed under Lawn Tips.

Before you know it, winter will be over, the snow will be melted and the dandelions and crab grass will once again rear their ugly heads. Will you be ready with the right lawn treatment plan?

From my experience, most of you guys that read this article are just not prepared. But it is okay, you just need to take some of the simple advice offered here and you can have a nice lawn in no time. Stick to the plan!

First off, you need to consider the fertilizer you will apply. I never recommend super high nitrogen fertilizers as they do nothing but over-push the growth of the lawn. It is best to find something with a better balance of potassium and phosphorus to help the lawns root structure.

I also recommend you get an organic based fertilizer for the summer months. As many of you know, Milorganite is my favorite and it is what I use in my own lawn. Organic lawn fertilizers types of fertilizer release into the soil very slowly, thus preventing browning from over application. They also provide a great source of long term, slow release elements that are healthy for the turf.

After we have chosen our fertilizer, we need to figure out how we are going to eliminate the impending weed infestation. Now, I really dont want you guys to use over the counter weed and feed products like you can get at Home Depot or Lowes. These are completely bad for the environment because spreading them just slings the weed killing chemicals everywhere. We need something with more control.

Always use liquid weed control and spot spray or target the weeds where they are and no where else. Get a pump up can sprayer to kill weeds, and follow the directions on the concentrate you buy. If you are too lazy to mix your own weed control (and many of you are) then buy the stuff pre-mixed and spray that. Just make sure your weed killer reads, safe for lawns.

To put the final touch on this thing, we need to get in some micro nutrients like iron. Iron will turn the lawn blue! If you use Milorganite, then you are all good as it already contains iron for the lawn.

In addition to that, you should lay down an insect treatment as well, just in case the grub worms attack. If you really get into it, lay down a quick application of fungus control in the later spring too why dont you!

I guess thats about it you guys. We are all set as long as the snow stops sometime soon. Just remember, you need quality fertilizers, easy to apply liquid weed killer and some iron and insect control and you are good to go. Lawn care is fun and rewarding when you apply these simple tips!

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Basic Lawn Treatment and Fertilization Advice | Life and Lawns

By Allyn Paul, filed under Lawn Tips.

The concept of a lawn treatment or grass treatmentis a confusing one to many of you folks. I know that clever lawn care marketers want you to think so, but treating your lawn is not as simple as buying a bag of fertilizer and throwing it down a few times per year. There is a specific lawns treatment for just about any lawn problem, but few yards require all of them be used every single year. As many of you know, I am not a fan of the throw the kitchen sink at it approach. I prefer a balanced approach that incorporates timed lawn treatment based on the needs of the turf that particular season. In other words, what works during a rainy year, will not work during a dry one. In addition, we do need to keep an eye out for the environmental impact we as homeowners have when we use lawn products. Ok, enough rambling; lets explore some of the basic lawn treatment practices I recommend.

I know you know this already, but nutrients are the basis for any lawn treatment program. Proper fertilization will promote a thicker lawn; and a thick lawn resists ALL other problems, naturally! The key is to feed your lawn only what it needs to keep it healthy without causing it to overgrow. We use nitrogen to keep the lawn green, potassium to strengthen the roots, and iron to give it the dark blue shades that it apart from the neighbors. (it is all about beating your neighbor right? ) I recommend Milorganite as your base organic lawn treatment. It is slow release nitrogen and iron combined in a nice, organic package. I also recommend a spring and later fall application of 20-20-10 granular fertilizer to promote strong roots.

Here are a few more helpful articles for you: What do the numbers on the bag of fertilizer mean? Milorganite organic lawn care fertilizer information Iron applications for lawns How to apply lawn fertilizer

The word, herbicide is NOT a bad word! I know that there are environmental extremists out there who want to outlaw the use of herbicides and pesticides, but they are just plain ignorant. (BTW-for you Canadian readers, it is against your laws to apply any pesticide products to your home lawn! Sorry guys) The big problem with herbicides is their misuse by homeowners and uneducated professionals. If used properly, herbicides can actually reduce the need for other lawn chemical applications. Think about this: if you dont spray your weeds, and they spread to your neighbors yard; then he may be forced to spray more pesticides year-after-year as your weeds invade his space. You follow that? (stepping off my soap box) I always recommend you use a pump sprayer (mix concentrate with water) and spot spray weeds in your lawn. Mix the herbicide according to label directions and spray carefully and target your application only where the weeds are and no where else! In my lawn, I get a few weeds per year and I just pull them by hand, but when I first started out, I never used more than one gallon of weed control over the entire year because I was very careful to only use what I needed and no more. I never use weed-n-feed products; ever!

Here are some helpful articles for you: Weed N Feed bags are the real environmental problem. Pesticides information

For this one, I need to break things into a list. I look at insects like this: (1) Lawn Damaging Insects Surface feeding damaging insects (Cinch Bugs, Billbugs and Sod Webworm) Sub-surface (below ground) damaging insects (Grub Worms)

(2) Nuisance Insects (ants, fleas, spiders, ticks)

I promise you that 90% of insect problems in a healthy lawn need absolutely no treatment at all. In fact, grub worms really only damage lawns that are unhealthy to begin with. Put it this way (and I am bragging a bit here): my lawn pictured in the sidebar gets grubs in it every year. I know this because I find them. But I dont lose sleep over it because my lawn is so healthy that it just grows out as fast as the little buggers can eat! Once again, a thick lawn will resist pretty much anything thrown at it! Now most of you are still working on getting your lawn healthy, so for your sake, I would recommend a once-per-year treatment for grubs. Put this application down in the later spring BEFORE grubs become a problem. The best grub treatments contain the product Merit. As far as above ground insects (both nuisance and damaging types), you can use a general lawn insecticide (granular preferred) in April that will take care of them all year. I do apply this lawn treatment each year so I can enjoy summer picnics without the hassles of ants and the like.

Here are some more helpful articles: Grub worms in your lawn Sod Webworms

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Lawn Treatment Information for DIYers | Life and Lawns

By veterinarian Steve Thompson, DVM, DABVP

Dog urine and feces can often be a frustrating problem related to lawn care. Small amounts may produce a green-up or fertilizer effect while larger amounts often result in lawn burn or dead patches. While most burn spots will recover with time and regrowth, dead areas can be large enough in some cases to require reseeding or sodding. For homeowners who are also dog lovers, this can present a dilemma, particularly when one family member prefers the dog and another prefers a well-manicured lawn. An understanding of the interaction between dogs and the lawn can keep the yard (and family) at peace, not in pieces.

The fundamental problem with the presence of urine or feces on the lawn is related to the nitrogen content and concentration of these waste products. Urine, when produced as a waste product in animals, primarily removes excess nitrogen from the body via the kidneys. Nitrogen waste products are the result of protein breakdown through normal bodily processes. Carnivores, including cats and dogs, have a significant protein requirement, and urine volume/production varies due to size and metabolism. Urine is a more serious problem for lawns because it is applied all at once as a liquid fertilizer, whereas feces slowly releases the waste products over time. Since stools are usually solid, owners have the option of frequent manual removal. With more time for the nitrogen waste to dissolve into the lawn, stools that are frequently removed damage lawns less than urine.

Young dogs of both sexes frequently squat to urinate. Leg lifting is often learned by male dogs around a year of age; castration or neutering does not seem to affect natures timetable related to this behavior development. While most male dogs will hike their leg and mark once they are over a year of age, a few will continue to squat when urinating, which is more common in female dogs. Female dogs may also mark although less commonly than male dogs. Once dogs begin urine marking, they often utilize many and numerous scent posts resulting in numerous, small volume urinations rather than large volume puddles. Grass can handle small volume nitrogen bursts easier than fertilizer overload. Unfortunately, the young bush, shrub, vine or tree sprout that becomes a marking post may have nitrogen (fertilizer) overload with repeated marking and may die if continually "marked."

The primary concern in addressing urine damage to lawns is minimizing thenitrogen concentration added to the lawn at any single time. Female dogs, being less likely to urine mark and more likely to squat, are the primary culprits of lawn damage since they will urinate anywhere on a lawn and usually all at once. This results in a single nitrogen dump confined to a small patch of grass. The brown spot that result will often have a green ring around the outside. The nitrogen overload at the center causes the burn, but as the urine is diluted toward the periphery, it has a fertilizer effect. This characteristic brown spot, green ring pattern has been called "female dog spot disease" by some horticulturists. As might be expected, lawns are most susceptible to nitrogen burns when standard fertilizers are maximized in the lawn. Homeowners making the extra effort to have a green lawn may be quite discouraged by their neighbors dog damage or their own housepets potty residue.

Speculation on the actual cause of the lawn burn has resulted in numerous theories on what else in the urine may be contributing to the damage. Dr. A.W. Allard, a Colorado veterinarian, examined numerous variations in dog urine and the effects on several common lawn grasses. His results support the fact that volume of urine (nitrogen content) and urine concentration had the most deleterious effects on lawns. The pH of the urine did not have any variable effect nor did common additives designed to alter the urine pH. Of the four grasses tested, Festuca sp. var. Kentucky 31 (fescue) and Lolium perrene (perennial ryegrass) were the most resistant to urine effects. In fact, the urine routinely produced a fertilizer effect on these grasses at diluted concentrations. Poa pratensis (Kentucky bluegrass) and Cynodon sp. var. Fairway (bermudagrass) were very sensitive to any urine concentration and severe burns resulted, persisting greater than 30 days after initial exposure to even four ounces of diluted urine. Even on the most urine resistant grass tested (fescue) urine concentration was a bigger problem than urine volume. Concentrated urine with volumes as little as 30cc (one ounce) caused lawn burn even on fescue grasses.

Where applicable, fences can be used to keep neighboring dogs from eliminating on the lawn. Advising neighbors of the legality of leash laws, where applicable, can restrict damage to areas near sidewalks and on tree lawns/median right of ways. Unfortunately, no repellents are universally effective although a variety of home remedies have been tried. Hot and bitter products are most likely to have taste or odor aversive properties to dogs. Most repellents function better as taste repellents than to touch or odor repellents. Some odor repellents may actually encourage a dog to overmark the strange smell. Some of the better known commercial repellents have these limitations as well. A newly developed motion activated sprinkler, primarily designed to keep cats and rabbits out of gardens, may have benefits for some yards. The sprinkler, may provide benefit in small yards or at corners of front yards where damage is most likely to occur; however, the presence of numerous squirrels, stray animals or children may result in over-watering and very high water bills if they continuously trigger this device.

In many cases, the problem dog is a housemate to the homeowner. While somewhat time-consuming, walking the dog to a park or field away from the house is a simple remedy to this. The time can be well spent since exercise has physical and emotional benefits for both dogs and their owners. Homeowners are encouraged to choose an appropriate destination and not create problem lawns elsewhere that may affect the overall aesthetics of the neighborhood.

A more feasible approach may be to train the pet to eliminate in a designated area of the yard. This area would be a landscaped area specifically designed for the dog. It will need a substrate like pea gravel or mulch that the dog finds acceptable and may even include a marking post like a large boulder, bird bath, lawn ornament, or even faux hydrant. Collecting the dogs urine in a cup and using it in this area for several days can provide some odor attractant value to this area. Feces can also be collected and transported to the new, designated area. Consistency for at least 2-3 weeks is important to establish this as a routine, trained behavior; several months may be necessary in some cases. Initially, training can occur with the dog on a short leash and food rewards employed to encourage use of this area. Dogs should not be unsupervised in the yard while this initial training is occurring. It is often easier to train a young puppy to a particular ground texture than an adult dog, but never impossible in any age dog. A variable reward system utilizing one standard treat if urinating anywhere outside and several treats or a special treat if in the designated area can be helpful in this process and avoid confusing the dog regarding the new housebreaking rules. Excessive food rewards in the form of meat or protein products will contribute to increased nitrogen content in the urine. Dogs that are being obedience trained should not be trained with treats on the lawn during this housebreaking or pets and reward systems can really become confused. Many dog owners will also find it helpful to train their dog to an elimination command during this time. Common commands might include: Potty, Piddle, Do Your Business or Hurry Up, etc. and take less time to accomplish the task when inclement weather is present or time schedules are busy.

A great many dietary modifications for dogs have been tried, often based on home remedies or anecdotal experience. A veterinarian should always be consulted prior to making any dietary modifications, whether they include additions or subtractions from standard nutrient guidelines. As stated earlier, the pH of the urine has little or no effect on the urine damage to the lawn. The addition of acidifying agents, including nutritional supplements like D-I, Methionine (Methioform), Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), or fruit juices will have no benefit for this problem and may predispose the dog to an increased incidence of certain bladder stones. Likewise, alkalinizing agents, including baking soda and potassium citrate can predispose to other types of bladder stones or infections. The addition of any of these supplements has enough potential to cause harm, with limited to no known benefit for the lawn, and are not recommended.

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How to Prevent Lawn Burn from Dog Urine - Dog Health Problems ...