Get professional-looking, watertight results with these residing techniques.

Youll need specialty tools, like this zip tool, to work with installing vinyl siding.

Dont let the fact that you have vinyl siding installation deter you from that repair or remodeling project. If you want to shift a window, replace a door or even put on an addition, you can remove, alter and reinstall vinyl siding much more easily than any other type of siding. In this article, were going to demonstrate how to rework the siding around a new set of windows.

Well show you how to remove it, and learn tips for installing vinyl siding new parts. Well also show you how to cut it, fit it and nail it back up. Most important, well show you how to make the installation watertight.

While well cover the basics, we wont cover every detail you might run into with your own project. Most manufacturers offer complete instructions; ask for them wherever vinyl siding is sold.

Working with vinyl doesnt require special skills, but you do have to understand the system. The only special tool youll need for reworking areas is an unlocking tool, often called a zip tool.. (Youll need a snap-lock punch if you intend to cover new areas.) Youll probably need new trim pieces. We bought two types-J-channel to go around the new, larger windows (Photo 9), and undersill trim (see When to Install Undersill Trim.).You may also need additional siding.

Vinyl siding installation is designed to hang loosely on the sheathing so that it can expand and contract with temperature changes. To prevent the relatively thin panels from buckling, observe these fitting and nailing rules.

Youll need a zip tool to remove siding.

Slide the zip tool under the butt edge of the siding, hook the locking edge and pull down. Then slide the tool horizontally along the lock to release it. Lift the unlocked siding to expose the nailing hem of the siding piece below. Draw a line on the wall along the top of each siding course before you pull the nails.

The zip tool slides under the siding to unlock it

Drive a flat bar between the nailheads and siding and carefully pull the nails. Then slide the piece down to unlock and remove it. Number each piece and set it aside. Remove siding until you expose enough wall to replace the window.

The beauty of vinyl is that you can remove a piece anywhere on the wall. Locate the piece you want to remove and unlock the one above it with the zip tool (Photo 1 inset). It might be tricky hooking the zip tool onto the locking edge if your siding is tight. Try starting at an end or look for a loose spot. Sometimes you can unzip it just with your fingers. If youre having difficulty with a particular lock, try moving up a course. New vinyl siding is quite flexible, especially in warm weather, but older siding becomes more brittle with age, so work carefully.

It should be easy to slide a flat bar behind the nailheads since theyre not driven tight (Photo 2).Dont slide the flat bar behind the siding itself. Youll risk breaking it. You may have to bow each length of vinyl to release its ends from the trim moldings, and you may have to slide short pieces up or down past the window to release them from the J-channel.

Level and tack the new window in place, then cut a piece of aluminum flashing to width so it extends from the new window to overlap the nailing hem of the siding below. Slide the top edge under the window fin, then nail off the fin with roofing nails.

Slide 5-in. wide side flashing under the windows nailing fin. Make sure it laps over the bottom flashing at least 2 in. and extends 2 in. above the windows top. Nail off the window.

Slit the building paper about 2 in. above the window and slide 5-in. wide flashing behind it. Lap it over the side flashing and window nailing fin. Drive roofing nails at each corner to secure it.

Building paper is an important part of the walls waterproofing. Its a barrier to any water that may work its way behind the siding, so be sure upper pieces lap over lower ones. Tape any tears or holes with housewrap tape (available at home centers).

Flashing is critical for a watertight window or door. Aluminum works best with vinyl. Buy a 10-in.wide roll of aluminum (at home centers), and cut it into 5-in.wide strips for the top and sides of the window. The width of the bottom flashing will vary. It must go under the window nailing fin and lap over the nailing hem of the vinyl siding (Photo 3). This will direct water to the front of the siding.

When youre done flashing the window, stand back and imagine water running down the wall. Start above the window and visually check that all building papers and flashing lap over the piece below it so water cant run behind.

Cut a section of new J-channel 2 in. longer than the width of the window. Mark out a notch 1 in. in from each end and deeply score the inner cutting line with a utility knife.

Make the last two cuts with snips. Bend the tab back and forth to snap it off (see Photo 8).

Position the J-channel under the window. Cut and position an undersill trim if necessary (see When to Use Undersill Trim.). Drive roofing nails every 8 to 10 in. through the middle of the slots. Dont drive them tight. The trim pieces should slide back and forth slightly.

Cut the side J-channel 2 in. longer than the height of the window. Make the miter cut on the bottom with shears. Cut a 1-in. notch on the top end as you did on the bottom J-channel. Lap the side over the bottom as shown. Drive roofing nails every 8 to 10 in. to secure it.

Cut 45-degree miters in the side J-channel

Cut the top J-channel 2 in. longer than the window width. Cut and bend the profile shown (see detail) on both ends. Lap it over the sides as shown and nail it into place.

Cut and notch J-channel to fit over the top of the window.

You have to wrap the window with vinyl J-channel to divert water and to cover the ends of the siding (Photo 9).Youll probably have to buy new strips for this. Start with the bottom piece and work up to the top (Photos 6 10). Make sure the pieces overlap to keep out water.

Mitered corners give a clean and finished appearance. Be extra careful to fit the top channel correctly over the side pieces (Photo 10) because a lot of water can run over these joints.

Because the siding is beveled, the cut edge under a window may end up about 1/2 in. out from the wall. If it falls 1/4 in. or less away, add the undersill trim to lock it in place (shown). If it falls more than 1/4 in. away, skip the undersill trim and simply rely on the J-channel.

If youre working over foam sheathing, place a piece of plywood between the foam and flat bar to avoid crushing the foam.

Position the siding to be notched below the window. Mark it on each side of the window, allowing an extra 1/4-in. gap on each side for expansion. Measure from the locking tab of the siding below to the undersill trim to determine the depth of the notch.

Cut through the nailing hem with shears, then score deeply along the rip line with a utility knife. Bend back the piece to snap off the notch.

Position the notched piece under the window, sliding it into the undersill trim and pushing the butt edge against the locking tab in the lower siding course to snap it in place. Make sure the top edge is on the layout line, then drive roofing nails at each stud.

Drive nails so that the exposed shank equals the thickness of two layers of siding (1/16 in. to 1/8 in.). Dont drive nails all the way in.

Measure and notch the top piece over the window. If necessary, put a butt joint above the window to make it easier to install these final pieces. Lock the piece to the one below it, then nail it into place.

Finally, pull the last loose piece down and over the lock with the zip tool. Using your hand, push or pound the piece to lock it back into place. Work the piece into the lock down its length.

Maneuvering long pieces of vinyl into place can be tricky. Push one end of longer pieces into the trim, then bow the siding slightly and guide the other end into the trim.

Then slide it up and snap the butt into the locking edge of the piece below. Feed the shorter pieces alongside the window into the channel at the top of the window, and slide them down into position. Installing the piece above the window (Photo 15) was especially tricky because it was also the last piece (it would have been easier to remove one more course above).

We had to cut the piece and put a joint directly above the window. Then we cut a long length of extra siding to complete the row. Be sure to overlap butt joints 1 in. This method wouldnt work if you had to splice in new vinyl, because the colors wouldnt match.

Remove a piece of siding and identify it. Take it to a siding retailer or distributor. Theyll identify the brand and style and should be able to direct you to the right source. Unfortunately, vinyl siding fades with age, so an exact color match may be impossible.

Be sure to save and reuse all the siding you remove. The trim pieces arent as critical. If you have to add new siding, position it in an obscure spot, like the base of a wall or behind the garage. In fact, you may want to re-side an entire wall with new vinyl.

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you startyoull save time and frustration.

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Heres a list.

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How to Install Vinyl Siding | Family Handyman

Flashing Installation

Before installing siding, make sure that flashings are installed to prevent moisture from entering wall and roof spaces. Flashing is an important line of defense in controlling moisture in wall assemblies. Flashing intercepts and directs the flow of water away from the building to designed drainage paths. Install horizontal flashing extending from the top of all wall penetrations (ie all windows and doors) and at any material or material directional change (ie. bandboards, water tables or the introduction of any alternative material). The flashing should tilt downward to allow water to drain away from the wall. Siding or trim should be inch above the flashing ledge. Do not caulk where the flashing and trim or other materials meet. Note that caulking in lieu of flashing is not acceptable.

The purpose of flashing window and door headers is to intercept water behind the siding and direct it to the outside, and to redirect water flowing down the face of the wall to flow away from the wall opening.

Moisture can accumulate behind the siding as a result of:

Some moisture will drain through the weepholes at the bottom of each piece of siding. An additional head trim flashing is required at the head of the window/door to direct water further outward, beyond the thickness of the window

The purpose of fascia flashing is to support the shingle edge and to provide a drip edge to prevent water from running back underneath the roofing shingles and down along the fascia and soffit.

Preformed eaves flashing/drip edge should be installed under the starter course of the shingle roofing. The extension of flashing supports the edge of shingles. If eaves troughs (rain gutters) are used, the flashing edge also helps to direct the water into troughs. Fascia flashing protects both the soffit and the fascia board, and provides a drip edge at the bottom edge to direct water away from the building.

Use high-performance acrylic-latex, acrylic, acrylic-silicone, polyurethane, polysulfide or terpolymer rubber caulks or sealants to seal gaps around windows, doors, corners, and other exterior joints that are exposed to potential water intrusion. Pure silicone and clear caulks do not work well on Western Red Cedar and are not recommended. Caulking is not a permanent solution and as such requires regular maintenance. If not inspected and maintained, caulking may fail and trap water, creating severe moisture problems. Do not rely on it as the only barrier to moisture penetration. Do not caulk areas that will prevent moisture from escaping the wall cavity (e.g., under windows and around flashing).

Siding and Trim that extends down to a roof (dormers, second floors, etc.) and decks requires a minimum of a 2 inch gap to avoid wicking. Trim, such as water table or skirt boards must be a minimum of 6 inches above the grade.

There are two main methods used for outside corners. The choice depends primarily on the desired appearance but also the experience and skill of the installer. Mitered corners offer a professional looking finish. They are most commonly used with horizontally applied siding applications such as bevel. Mitered corners require good carpentry skills. They must fit tightly for the full depth of the miter.

Corner boards are a popular and easier alternative to mitered corners. Thickness of the corner board will depend on the thickness of the siding. The most common are 3/4 inch or 1-1/4 inches thick. Width is a matter of taste and proper proportion. Corner boards are applied to the sheathing with siding fitting tightly against the narrow edge of the boards, allowing for expansion and an adequate caulking bead. The corner boards and the ends of the siding are nailed to the corner studs which anchors the wood for a maintenance-free joint. Designing roofs with an eaves overhang to protect corners from weathering also helps ensure trouble-free joints. Always apply primer or stain end cuts. With corner boards, there is the choice of applying them next to the siding or over top of the siding as shown here.

As in the above illustration, at inside corners, siding is frequently butted against a 2 x 2 trim strip. It can also be butted against adjoining walls with a trim strip used to cover the joint.

When butt jointing siding, cut ends at 45 degree angles to form an overlapping joint. This is particularly important for vertical installation. Ensure joints meet on studs, blocking or furring strips with the nail penetrating solid wood at least 1-1/4 inches.

All installers should learn and follow best practices in order to deliver a better job for their customer and reduce call backs.

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Siding General Installation - Real Cedar

","latitude":40.0391686,"longitude":-75.5520301},{"type":"point","balloon_text":"Certitude Home Improvements+ see more information ","latitude":40.0435809,"longitude":-75.518706},{"type":"point","balloon_text":"JDT Construction+ see more information ","latitude":40.044466,"longitude":-75.5814733},{"type":"point","balloon_text":"Hancock Building Assoc Inc+ see more information ","latitude":40.0855059,"longitude":-75.5044443},{"type":"point","balloon_text":"Sarafinas Home Repair+ see more information 610-613-7136

Devon, PA 19333

Exton, PA 19341

West Chester, PA 19382

King Of Prussia, PA 19406

Malvern, PA 19355

Malvern, PA 19355

Malvern, PA 19355

Paoli, PA 19301

West Chester, PA 19381

1710 E Lancaster Ave Ste 338

Paoli, PA 19301

Phoenixville, PA 19460

Chesterbrook, PA 19087

Devon, PA 19333

West Chester, PA 19380

Phoenixville, PA 19460

Kimberton, PA 19442

Newtown Square, PA 19073

1210 Westtown - Thorton Road

Westtown, PA 19395

1210 Westtown Thornton Rd

West Chester, PA 19382

Phoenixville, PA 19460

Downingtown, PA 19335

Exton, PA 19341

310 Perkiomen Ave

PO Box 993

Oaks, PA 19456

West Chester, PA 19382

West Chester, PA 19382

600 Brandywine Ave Ste 800

Downingtown, PA 19335

Downingtown, PA 19335

Spring City, PA 19475

Glen Mills, PA 19342

Royersford, PA 19468

Downingtown, PA 19335

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ICON Composite Siding - Siding - CertainTeed

Most types of siding are relatively easy to install. If you own a miter saw, you'll find it easy to make square cuts on most types of horizontal siding. Fastening is seldom difficult; the main challenge is finding the studs to nail to (unless your house has plywood or OSB sheathing). A successful siding job mainly requires careful layout and observance of a few simple guidelines as you work. Our how-tos provide you with all of this informationand moreso you can successfully side your home. We'll help you pick up a few key habits, then introduce a variety of siding options, such as wood, vinyl, and panel.

Lay out the job when applying horizontal siding to avoid odd slivers of material above doors and above or below windows. Siding should progress up the wall with an even exposure, and courses should line up when they meet at a corner. For layout, the story pole is indispensable. It's a tool that will help you anticipate problem areas and figure out workable solutions. Often solving one problem will introduce another, forcing a compromise. Generally you should take the solution that looks best on the most visible side of the house.

Similar principles hold true for vertical siding like board-and-batten or tongue-and-groovethin bits of siding look bad and are difficult to cut. Panel siding should be planned so joints hit studs and to avoid narrow pieces at the ends of walls.

Allow plenty of time for laying out the job; it will save you problems later on and result in a job that looks great.

A hallmark of an amateur siding job is horizontal siding that dips and rises with each coursea sign that someone wasn't checking for level. Similarly, vertical siding must be checked for plumb. It is good to do this not only as you hold the piece in place but also after you've begun applying it. Siding can slip as you apply those first few fasteners.

Sealing the edges of unprimed siding can be awkwardit is no fun reaching for the paintbrush after every cutbut rest assured you are saving yourself headaches down the road.

And drill those pilot holes. You've invested in good material; don't mess it up with cracks and splits.

If you're going for a classic exterior, look no further than horizontal wood lap siding. This durable choice doesn't require a professional, either. With a little how-to knowledge, any determined homeowner can install wood lap siding themselves. Our thorough tutorial shows you exactly how to get the job done.

Fiber-cement lap siding provides a natural, wood-like look, and it isn't prone to water, rot, or insect damage. This hardy material comes in 12-foot lengths with a variety of different widths. Installing fiber-cement lap siding is no more difficult to install than wood siding, and we'll walk you through the entire process.

Easy to install, tongue-and-groove siding is a smart choice for many region-specific projects. The siding fits together by means of tongues and grooves (hence the name) that over- and underlap one another. However, the overlap provides less protection from the elements than other types of siding, so make sure tongue-and-groove is suitable for your region before getting started.

Compared to other sidings, vinyl is one of the easiest to install. It cuts easily, can be put up quickly, and requires no painting. Though the installation process is simple, prepping for the job requires more effort. Our expert guide gives you all the info you need to install vinyl siding on your home.

Amp up curb appeal with shingles on the front and sides of your home. This textured, rustic look will set your home apart from the neighbors. Plus, with three layers of shingles, your home will receive optimal protection from the elements. Learn how to prep your home and install siding shingles with our how-to.

Shingle panels are shingles attached to a piece of plywood or backerboard and then installed. Installing the panels takes roughly a day, depending on the size of your house, but the end result will last for years. Installation is easy, and we'll show you how to do it in just four steps.

Need a budget-friendly siding option? Panel siding is perfect for smaller structures like a shed, but can also be used to side a home. The trick is to be extra careful when installing, and to choose your panels and fasteners carefully. Our how-to shows you the entire 21-step process.

Excerpt from:
An Introduction to Installing Siding - bhg.com

How to Install Vinyl & Aluminum SidingHow to Install Vinyl & Aluminum Siding

Expert advice and diagrams on how to install vinyl and aluminum exterior siding, including tips on tools, fasteners and replacing vinyl siding and trim.

Vinyl Siding Diagram

Vinyl and aluminum sidings come in a variety of panel sizes, for installing horizontally or vertically, and are merchandised as complete systems including all the necessary parts and pieces. Because they are lightweight materials, unlike steel, an experienced do-it-yourselfer with the proper tools can reasonably undertake an aluminum or vinyl siding project.

A vinyl siding system consists of various trim pieces, such as J-channels, corner posts, and other trim pieces. All of these are installed first, and then the siding panels themselves are installed. The panels are mounted from the bottom up, in an overlapping manner and with their edges contained by the various trim pieces.

Please see more about siding system components in the article, Vinyl & Aluminum Siding Buying Guide.

Carpentry tools for installing vinyl or aluminum siding include a circular saw, square, tape measure, hammer, and goggles.

If youre planning a do-it-yourself installation of vinyl siding, youll need to buy materials and gather the necessary tools. For a complete discussion of the siding, channels, and other accessories youll need, see Vinyl Siding Buying Guide.

Some of the tools required are relatively common, but others are specially made for the task. The latter are generally available where you buy the siding. Here is a look at what you will need.

Common hand tools such as a hammer, fine-tooth saw, square, chalk line, level, and rule are needed for proper installation. Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes.

Simple cuts in vinyl siding can be made with a utility knife, scoring tool, or tin snips.

Because of the vinyl is relatively soft and thin, it is easy to cut, trim, and score the material with a utility knife or scoring tool. A good-quality pair of tin snips or compound-leverage aviation-type snips will speed the cutting and shaping of the vinyl and can be especially helpful for cutting curves.

Radial-arm saw, fitted with a vinyl-cutting blade, is excellent for crosscuts, and can be turned for ripping lengthwise.

A bench or radial-arm power saw can speed the cutting and installation of vinyl siding. Your best bet is to buy a saw blade that is made for the purpose of cutting this siding. As an alternative, a fine-tooth blade with 12 to 16 teeth per inch can be usedit should be mounted on the saw in the reverse of its normal direction. Never use it this way on other materials such as aluminum, wood, or plywood.

Always wear safety glasses or goggles when cutting siding with a saw.

In extremely cold weather, move the saw through the material slowly. Some applicators prefer a hand-held power circular saw, but it can be difficult to execute straight cuts with one of these.

From the top down: snap-lock punch, nail-hole punch, and unlocking tool.

A snap-lock punch, available from a siding dealer, is used to punch ears or lugs in the cut edges of siding to be used for the top or finishing course. The punched edge will engage and lock in the installed under-sill trim or finish trim. If it is necessary to nail the cut edge of a panel, use a nail-hole punch to make the required hole, which is elongated to allow for expansion and contraction.

To remove or replace a siding panel, use an unlocking tool. Insert the curved end of the tool under the end of the panel and hook it onto the back lip of the butt lock. To disengage the lock, pull downward and slide the tool along the length of the panel. Use in the same manner to install a panel.

Vinyl and aluminum siding can be fastened with hammer and nails or by using a power nailer or stapler. For more about the latter, see Power-Nailing & Stapling Vinyl Siding.

Nails for aluminum and vinyl siding differ slightly:

Nails for Vinyl Siding

For vinyl siding, use aluminum, galvanized steel, or other corrosion-resistant nails. Nail in the center of the slot. Space nails a maximum of 16 inches for horizontal siding, 12 inches for vertical, and 6 to 12 inches for accessories.

Select only corrosion-resistant nails that are long enough to allow for 3/4-inch penetration into a solid, nailable surface. Length is typically 1 1/2 inch for general use, 2 inches for residing, and a minimum of 2 1/2 inches for going through siding with backerboard. For trim, 1 to 1 -inch nails are typical. Nail heads should be, at minimum, 5/16 inch in diameter and shanks should be 1/8 inch in diameter.

Be sure the nails hold the panels securely. The panels should float on the nails to provide for expansion and contraction. Do not nail panels at an angle; this can pull the siding up or down. Nail into studs where possible (check the manufacturers recommendations if your wall studs are 24 inches on center).

For more about nailing, see How to Nail Vinyl Siding.

For aluminum siding, only use aluminum nails. The nails should have 1/8-inch shanks, heads at least 5/16 inch in diameter, and be able to penetrate backing by at least 3/4 inch. In general, 4d (1 1/2-inch) nails will do the job. When nailing aluminum panels, place the nails in the middle of the nailing slots and do not drive them in all the way. Siding panels should hang from the nails, not be nailed fast.

Backerboard for Vinyl Siding

Vinyl siding is a relatively thin, flexible material and, as such, should be applied over a smooth, flat surface of wall sheathing or backerboard that is securely nailed to wall framing. Weather-resistant sheathing in a minimum thickness of inch is recommended. Backerboard can be used instead, but, if it is, the following specifications are recommended:

The bottom of the backerboard should rest on top of the nail rail of the preceding course (see siding installation).

The top of the backerboard should be even with the top of the siding panel so that the nails or staples pass through the backerboard.

Do not force the backer down into the butt of the siding panel.

Some manufacturers of vinyl siding do not recommend using drop-in backerboard with certain vinyl siding configurations. Consult your manufacturer for specific recommendations.

How to Prepare Walls for Vinyl or Aluminum Siding

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How to Install Vinyl & Aluminum Siding

How much does it cost to install metal siding?

Metal siding was a standard of older homes and the new version of this home element has been updated for both style and quality. Today's metal siding options are customizable and durable, all while being budget-friendly. The two most common types of metal siding are steel and aluminum. Both are durable, similarly priced, and long lasting, but aluminum is the more popular option as it is easier to find and comes in more style and color options.

With proper installation, new metal siding can last up to 50 years. Siding installations can be complicated for most homeowners and difficult to complete as a DIY project, since metal siding can be heavy and difficult to cut.

The cost to install metal siding is affected by the size of the house, material, the expertise of the siding company and their labor cost. The example cost of a siding installation for a 12'x16' home addition is used in this cost breakdown.

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Cost to Install Metal Siding - Estimates and Prices at Fixr

Wood

Few building materials have the natural charm and beauty of wood clapboard and shingle siding. Prized for its warmth and workability, wood siding is the choice for a premium renovation project.

Wood siding comes in many species and grades. What you choose usually depends on how you plan to finish the siding. Using a clear sealer or semi-transparent stain highlights the grain, but you'll need to select more expensive grades of wood that are free of knots and other blemishes. Choose less-expensive grades for use with paint or opaque stains.

With dedicated maintenance, wood can last generations. Clear finishes should be reapplied every two years; semi-transparent stains every three years; and paints every five years. That kind of diligence adds up a complete refinishing job is $2,000 to $5,000.

Upside: Wood is easy to cut and shape, and can be installed by reasonably skilled DIYers. It's a great-looking material prized by architects, designers and homeowners for its natural beauty.

Downside: Better grades of wood can be pricey. Diligent maintenance adds to the overall cost. Retrofitting with wood siding requires removing existing siding materials.

Green meter: Wood siding is considered a highly sustainable material that breaks down easily in landfills. The best grades are made from old-growth timber. To relieve the pressure on old-growth forests, choose wood siding that's certified by the Forest Stewardship Council as being harvested from sustainable forests.

Cost: Clapboard siding: $5to $8 per square foot, installed. Expect to pay $14,000 to $23,000 to have wood siding professionally installed on an average two-story house.

Cost: Shingle siding: $6to $9 per square foot, installed.

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Buyer's Guide for Exterior Siding | DIY

As with most things in home improvement, the proper installation is critical to the performance and look of vinyl siding. Vinyl siding installation should be done by professional experts with the proper materials.

The Vinyl Siding Institute highly recommends that you have VSI Certified Installers to do your vinyl siding installation. A VSI Certified Installers are required to have a minimum of one year experience installing vinyl siding, successfully pass a required course and written exam. Joyce Factory Direct is proud to install your house vinyl siding with VSI Certified Installers.

Energy costs have been on a steady rise since we can remember. One of the best features of vinyl siding is one that cant be seen, a Dow housewrap system. This is just as it sounds, a blanket of installation to wrap your home in comfort. A housewrap can lower your energy bills by as much as 40%, saving you money and making your family more comfortable in the bitter cold Northern Ohio winters.

If you have ever attempted any home improvement project, you know that the key to getting it done correctly is the proper equipment and experience. As VSI Certified Installers you know that we have the experience. With experience, comes the knowledge of the proper equipment that is necessary to get the job done quickly and professionally.

Schedule your free estimate with the vinyl siding experts from Joyce Factory Direct. Either give us a call 866.535.2900 or fill out our online form today!

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Vinyl Siding Institute

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Vinyl Siding Installation is Critical to the Longevity and ...

Advanced Home Exteriors is your siding specialist in Richmond and the Tri Cities area. New siding gives you the piece of mind and protection knowing that you not only added strength, beauty, and durability to your home, but also a low maintenance and reliable product. Let our experts work with you to improve the look and energy efficiency of your home with new siding. We proudly offer vinyl and Hardie Plank siding.

From start to finish, you'll receive only the best customer service from us. We'll remain in close contact with you until all steps of the project are taken care of while providing informative answers to any questions you have. For each job we use premium materials, and if you need a replacement, we can help you select an option that suits your taste and budget.

Advanced Home Exteriors is a choice you can rely on to treat your home in the Richmond and Tri Cities area with care and respect. When you need to enlist the help of a trustworthy siding contractor that has the expertise and experience as well as affordable rates give us a call. We promise you'll be pleased!

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Siding Installation Contractor | Richmond, VA

This press release was orginally distributed by SBWire

Mount Ephraim, NJ -- (SBWIRE) -- 09/06/2017 -- Homeowners interested in changing the color of their home at an affordable rate are relying on New Window Factory Sales, Inc. to install vinyl siding on their homes. Vinyl siding in South Jersey offers improved protection for the home with little upkeep, and last for more than triple the amount of time as paint.

Residents who want to change the color of their home, for the most part, have two options to choose from: installing new siding or investing in a new coat of paint. At first glance, many homeowners assume that paint will be a less expensive option. While this may be true in regards to short-term costs, paint usually ends up being significantly more expensive than siding in the long run.

The best professional paint job lasts an average of eight years before it will begin to chip and fade; at this point, homeowners will have to reinvest in their paint again to keep their home looking presentable. On the other hand, vinyl siding will cost more upon installation but will last anywhere from 20 to 50 years according to manufacturer's claims. This means that even the best painting job will last less than half of the time as vinyl siding, along with requiring more maintenance as well.

Residents who are interested in learning more about vinyl siding and windows in South Jersey are encouraged to call New Window Factory Sales, Inc. at 856-546-1120 for a free quote or visit them online at http://newwindowfactory.com for more information.

About New Window Factory Sales, Inc.New Window Factory Sales, Inc. is a custom window manufacturer based out of Mount Ephraim, New Jersey on the Black Horse Pike. Their teams of experts have decades of experience in the fields of custom window building and installation, as well as expertise in a wide variety of exterior renovation options like siding and doors. They can be reached by phone at 856-389-4143. Interested parties can also reach them via e-mail or by filling out a contact form on their website.

For more information on this press release visit: http://www.sbwire.com/press-releases/new-window-factory-sales-inc-offers-an-affordable-alternative-to-painting-859399.htm

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New Window Factory Sales, Inc. Offers an Affordable Alternative to Painting - Digital Journal