If you are seeking to add space to your home, one optionis to hire a contractor to build a roomaddition that adds a bump-out or extension to the main footprint of the house. But it is also an option that can quickly alarm budget-conscious homeowners when the bids from general contractors come in. It is not at all uncommon for a custom-built addition to cost in excess of $100,000, and it is nearly impossible to get any custom addition of this type done for less than $50,000.

These prices quickly cause many people to look for alternatives to custom room additions. One very popular alternative is a sunrooma space that bridges indoor and outdoor spaces with a comfortable supplemental living area. Fact that a sunroom usually costs about half of a traditional stick-built addition makes this a very attractive option for many people.

To the novice, the various terms used for add-on living space can be confusing:

Stick-built addition: Stick-built is the short-hand term for any kind of structure that is built from scratch. In this case, we are referring to house additions, room additions, and other bump-outs that are constructed from wood, concrete, glass, house sheathing, shinglesnearly every component that is usedwhen building a home. These additions may have full basements beneath them in regions where that is the norm. A true room addition must have full electrical service and must also have HVAC service. This type of room addition adds to the official square footage of the house. According tothe International Energy Conservation Code (IECC), any conditioned living space cannot have more than 40 percent of the wall space given over to glass windows.

Sunrooms: The term sunroom is usually defined as a recreational space bridging indoor and outdoor living areas, usually with a considerable amount of wall space dedicated to glassoften as much as 80 percent. Building codes generally do not require a sunroom to have electricity or central heating/cooling service, although this is not a hard-and-fast rule: many sunrooms now have electrical services, and they may have supplemental heating and cooling.Sunrooms oftenare built on floating concrete slabs with shallow perimeter foundations, somewhat like those used for a garage; full basements beneath sunrooms are rare.

Within the sunroom category, though there are two subcategories. Sunrooms can be custom-built by a local general contractor who will design and build the sunroom to your specifications. Such sunrooms have traditional stud-and-truss framing and shingle roofs, but the walls are predominantly glass, formed by patiodoors or full-length windows. More commonly, though, today's sunrooms are constructed from prefabricated kits that come with framework pieces of steel, aluminum or fiberglass, along with the glass panels for the walls.Pre-fab sunroom additions are assembled in puzzle-like fashion, usually by qualified technicians. The fact that these are "kits" does not mean that assembly is an easy DIY project, although many homeowners have successfully assembled them. A pre-fab sunroom is designed and fabricated off-site, then is shipped in pieces to your home packed in flat cartons. Assembly can be done by a homeowner, or more often by a contractor affiliated with the kit manufacturer.

Costs for sunrooms vary enormously. Arecent surveyshowed that the average cost of a sunroom was $15,104, nationally, but that costs in excess of $75,000 are also possible for a large sunroom square feet) when a new slab-on-grade foundation was required.

Here are some typical costs for a 15 x 15-ft. sunroom kit:

Since sunroom builders in recent years have been stepping up their game and rewriting some of the rules, these distinctions between stick-built additions and sunrooms are constantly changing and narrowing.For example, there was a time when most pre-fab sunrooms were not wired for electricity. Now, this is a viable option with most sunroom packages.

In their eagerness to add a sunroom, homeowners often make certain mistaken assumptions about sunrooms. Here are some corrections to common misconceptions:

Some reputable pre-fab sunroom manufacturers include:

A sunroom is a fantastically tempting alternative to a conventional, full-sized addition. On average, these light-bathed spaces are cheaper than stick-built additions, and since fewer sub-contractors are involved, sunrooms go up quickly. Although the spaced added by a sunroom is defined as supplemental spacenot the essential living space offered by room additionfor many homeowners, a sunroom is a perfect choice.

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Sunrooms: an Alternative to Full Room Additions

Sunrooms are a versatile, useful and affordable choice that can offer much more than a garage or traditional addition. They are an effective way to add more living space and natural light to your home. Learn the benefits of a sunroom.

Before you decide on a sunroom, it's important to understand the features and options that are available to you. Learn 10 important sunroom features to help you decide which room is right for you and your home. Learn more.

At Patio Enclosures, we are committed to helping you achieve your home improvement goals. We understand that adding a sunroom addition to your home can be a big expense. That's why we work with you to custom design a sunroom that fits your needs and your budget. Each sunroom is custom designed, making the cost of each project vary, which is why you won't find Sunroom Addition Cost listed on our website.

For more information about our financing options, visit our Specials & Financing page.

We offer a Limited Lifetime Warranty on every one of our custom-made enclosures. It covers all manufacturers' products, including glass, roof panels, framing, seals and more. Patio Enclosures takes every step to ensure your sunroom will perform for a lifetime.

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Sunrooms, Sun Rooms, Three Season Rooms, Patio & Screen ...

Roll up your sleeves!Outside view of the porch

The screened in porch is light and airy.

The screened porch offers a nearly unobstructed view of the outdoors.

A screened in porch is a big improvement, but building a porch is also a big project, one that might consume most of your spare time this summer. So, were keeping this how to build a porch design simple. You can build it with standard dimensional lumber, and it doesnt require heavy beams or complex joints. The simple 24 walls are light and airy looking. Two horizontal bands of 2x4s, set 10 in. from the top and bottom of the wall, add a design element and stiffen the 24 framing enough to support the hand-built trusses. With this how to build a porch design, theres no need to precisely align the overhangs. And the exposed rafters and open soffit look great on many house styles.

The total cost of this how to build a porch was $6,500, but you could save hundreds of dollars without sacrificing quality by substituting treated decking for the cedar or using tongue-and-groove pine rather than cedar on the ceiling. Even though how to build a porch project is a large project, most of the construction is straightforward. If youve built decks or sheds, youll be able to tackle this job with confidence. In this how to build a screened in porch article, well show you the key steps for building this porch. Study the drawings and photos for more details.

Youll need a full set of basic carpentry tools, a circular saw and a drill to build this porch. In addition, a reciprocating saw, a table saw and a power miter box will make the job go quicker and give you better results. To reach high places safely and easily, we recommend renting a rolling scaffold system (Photo 8) for a month.

You can add this screened in porch to almost any house, but attachment details may vary from what we show here. On most two-story houses, you wont have to worry about tying in to the roof, but you may have to situate the porch carefully to avoid covering a window. The house roof sloped 5 in. per foot (this is called a 5/12 slope) and extended 18 in. at the overhang. Your roof may vary from this, and the details of how the porch ties in will vary as well.

If youre not sure how to neatly join the screened in porch and house roofs, we recommend hiring an architect to help work out the details. Another option is to build a full-size mockup of a roof truss out of inexpensive and lightweight 1x4s. Figure out where the top of the wall plate would be if you built the porch according to our plans (Figures A H). Then support the mocked-up truss at this height to see how the porch overhang meets the roof. If you dont like the way the overhangs intersect, adjust the level of the deck slightly, alter the wall height or change the width of the overhang.

Contact your local building inspections department to find out whats required to obtain a building permit. Start this process at least a month before you plan to build. This will allow enough time to work through potential problems.

These illustrations show the plans for the screened in porch, deck framing, gable framing, ledger, truss block, side walls and the end wall.

To print these how to build a porch plans, see Additional Information at the end of this story.

Bolt the ledger to the house. Then nail the perimeter joists together and level and square the assembly. Measure, cut and set the 66 posts.

Cut the joists to length and nail them into place with a pair of nails at each end. Then slide joist hangers onto the end of each joist and nail the hangers.

Start by marking the ledger board location on the house wall. We located the top of the ledger board 90 in. below the bottom of the soffit. On our house, this left a 6-in. step down from the patio door to the deck surface. Remove the siding and attach the ledger with 1/2 x 4-in. galvanized lag screws (Figure D). Make sure its perfectly level. If the ledger attaches to concrete, predrill holes and insert lead shield lag screw anchors before installing the lags.

After you mount the ledger, use stakes and string lines to outline the deck frame according to the dimensions in Figure B and mark the footing locations. A few days before you plan to dig the footings, call 411 to have underground utilities marked in the vicinity of the porch. Your local building department will specify how large and deep the footings should be for your climate and soil conditions. Pour a concrete pad in the bottom of each footing hole after theyve been inspected. Let the concrete set overnight.

Next choose the six straightest 2x10s for the perimeter beams. Cut the 2x10s for the two side beams to length and nail the pairs together. Use 16d stainless steel or double-dipped galvanized nails for all of the joist framing and to attach the joist hangers to the ledger board. Rest one end of each side beam in the double joist hangers and prop them up level with a stack of wood (Photo 1).

Nail through the joist hangers into the beams at the house to hold them in place. Then connect the opposite ends of the two beams at the front with a 210 cut to the same length as the ledger. Adjust the resulting frame until the diagonal measurements are equal. Then brace the frame against stakes pounded into the ground to hold it square while you install the treated posts, joists and decking (Photo 2). Sight along the outside rim joist occasionally and adjust the length of the joists as needed to keep the front rim joist straight.

Make a mark 1-5/8 in. out from the deck on both sides. Then make another mark 5-1/8 in. inside the first mark. Draw plumb lines up from these marks and cut a 5-1/8-in. slot through the siding but not the sheathing.

Mark the roof portion that overhangs the deck. Then cut the roof sheathing back even to the edge of the house and pry it off. Cut the rafter tails off flush with the house wall.

If your house has an overhang, youll have to cut it back flush to allow the innermost truss to fit against the wall. Start by removing the soffit and fascia boards above and several feet to each side of the deck. Its easier to remove extra soffit and fascia boards and patch them back after the porch is done than to calculate cutoff points now. After the soffit boards are removed, use a level to plumb up from the house wall to the underside of the roof boards, in line with the outside edges of the porch.

Mark the two points. Then drive a long screw or nail up through the roof boards at the two marks. Snap a chalk line between the nails and remove the shingles below and about 6 in. above the line. Chalk a new line and remove nails along the line. Then saw along the line and pry off the roof boards (Photo 4). Be sure to wear safety glasses and hearing protection when youre sawing. Finally, cut off the rafter tails flush to the house wall.

Youll have to decide whether to cut a slot where the porch walls meet the siding (Photo 3). If your siding is stucco, brick or stone, you may want to butt the walls to the siding. Photo 3 shows how to cut a slot for the wall. Set the saw blade just deep enough to cut through the siding only. Remove the siding. Waterproof the slot with No. 15 building paper.

Screw two sheets of plywood to the deck and mark the truss shape on them (Figure J). Screw stop blocks along the rafter lines and crosstie line. Assemble the trusses.

Prime and paint the truss parts, wall frame and screen stops before assembly. Prime the wood with a special stain-blocking primer such as Zinssers oil- based Cover-Stain. Then brush on a coat of acrylic exterior house paint. Make sure to prime every cut end as you work; otherwise these areas will absorb moisture and cause staining. We prefinished the roof boards with an oil finish (Cabot Clear Solution Natural).

Its easiest to assemble the roof trusses first, using the deck platform as a work surface. Screw two sheets of plywood to the decking and use the dimensions in Figure J to chalk lines indicating the top of the rafters and the bottom of the 26 crosstie. Cut triangular blocks and screw them to the plywood to hold the rafters in alignment as you assemble the trusses (Photo 5).

Cut a rafter using the dimensions in Figure J and use it as a pattern to mark the remaining rafters. Place a pair of rafters in the jig and screw the tops together. Next screw the 26 crosstie and 28 spacer to the pair of rafters. Keep the crosstie screws clear of the bolt hole locations. Complete each truss by screwing another pair of rafters on top.

Check the ends and tops of the rafters as you assemble the trusses to make sure theyre perfectly aligned. The trusses must be identical so that your roof boards and soffit trim will line up. Finally, elevate the truss on blocks of wood while you drill a pair of 1/2-in. holes into each end of the crosstie for the carriage bolts (Figure J). Run the 1/2 x 5-1/2-in. carriage bolts through the rafters and crosstie ends and tighten the nuts.

This illustration shows how to construct the trusses.

Cut the wall parts according to the plan and screw them together. Use the crosspieces as spacers to position the posts. Screw the crosspieces between the posts. Use a spacer block to ensure perfect alignment

Since the wall framing for this screened in porch is the finished surface, its worth taking a little extra time to make the framing material look good. We chose the nicest cedar 2x6s we could find and ripped them into 3-1/2-in. and 1-1/2-in. boards. We did this to create sharp, clean edges (we also ripped off all the factory rounded edges).

Cut the studs and crosspieces to length and screw the walls together (Photo 6 and Figures F H). We used a power miter saw for clean, square cuts, but a circular saw will work too. Use a crosspiece as a spacer when youre attaching the studs to the top and bottom plates (Photo 6). Then cut a 10-in. spacer block to position the crosspieces for assembly.

Stand the walls and screw the wall corners together. Align the walls flush to the deck and screw them down. Finally plumb and brace the walls.

Stand a truss against the house. Plumb and brace it. Set the outside truss and screw a 14 brace to it. Then stand and brace the remaining trusses. Toe-screw all of the trusses to the top wall plate.

The key to standing the walls is to check and double-check along the way to make sure theyre straight along their top and bottom plates, perfectly plumb and square, and securely braced (Photo 7). Start by positioning the walls with their outside edge flush to the deck and screwing them down. Next screw the corners together, making sure the top plates of adjacent walls are even with each other. Use a long level to plumb the walls while you attach diagonal braces to hold them in position (Photo 7). Leave the braces in place until after the roofing is complete.

Round up a couple of strong helpers to assist in setting the trusses. Start by marking the position of the trusses on the top plate and onto a 16-ft. 14 (youll use the 14 to brace and position the tops of the trusses as you stand them up). The first truss simply butts to the house wall. The outermost truss aligns with the edge of the top plate, and the three interior trusses are centered on the studs below. Set the first truss against the house and carefully center it so that 1-1/2 in. of the bottom 26 overhangs the top wall plates on each side.

Screw the truss to the top plates. Then use a straightedge and level to stand the truss perfectly plumb and brace it to the roof (Photo 8). Make sure this brace is securely screwed to the roof and the truss because the remaining trusses will be supported by this truss until the roof tie-in framing is complete.

Lift the remaining trusses onto the top of the walls and rest them on the first truss. Slowly and carefully slide the outermost truss to the outside end of the porch. Align the marks on the 14 with the truss at the house and the outermost truss and screw it to the trusses.

Center the outermost truss on the walls and toe-screw it to the top plate of the walls. Stretch a string line between nails at the peak of the two trusses. Align the remaining trusses with the string line and the marks on the 14 and top plates and screw them in.

Stretch a masons line across the peak of the trusses to position the roof tie-in framing. Use 3/4-in.-thick spacer blocks to raise the line to the correct tie-in framing height.

Cut 28 plates and nail them to the roof. Measure for the ridge. Cut the ridge and a pair of rafters and nail them to the plates. The framing should be exactly 3/4 in. above the top of the trusses.

Bevel the first roof board and nail it flush to the end of the trusses. Nail the remaining tongue-and-groove roof boards to the trusses. Cut the last board on each side to fit at the peak.

One of the trickiest parts of the porch construction is joining the two roofs. The key is to extend lines from the new porch and mark where they intersect the existing roof. Do this by using a taut string line or a long, straight board. Remember to raise the tie-in framing on the existing house roof in. above the porch framing to compensate for the difference in thickness of the 3/4-in. plywood and 1-1/2-in. roof boards (Photo 12).

Start the tie-in framing by locating the point where the peak intersects the existing roof (Photo 9). Then cut the 28 roof plates. If youre not good at calculating roof angles, start by estimating the angles and cutting the plates an extra 6 in. long. Then set them in place, remark the angles and recut them until they fit. Screw the roof plates through the roof boards into the rafters below. Next measure for the ridge, estimate the angle and cut it a little long. Trim the angle to fit and screw the ridge rafter to the first truss and roof plates. Complete the tie-in by installing a pair of rafters (Photo 10).

Photo 11 shows installation of the roof boards. Set your table saw or circular saw to 23 degrees and rip a bevel on the groove edge of the first board. Align the board with the ends of the trusses and nail it with 16d galvanized nails. Install the remaining boards, making sure to snug the joints tight before nailing them. Let the boards hang out past the last truss to form the gable end overhang.

When youre done installing the roof boards, snap a chalk line at the gable (outer) end and saw them off to leave an 18-in. overhang. Finish the gable end overhang by installing a pair of rafters and the 13 trim. Hold the gable end rafters tight to the underside of the cutoff roof boards and screw through the roof boards to hold the rafters in place. Then cut 13 trim to cover the end grain of the roof boards. Extend the trim around the corners and return it along the roof edge to the house.

Cover the tie-in framing with 3/4-in. plywood. Add blocking as needed and fill in the triangular areas between the existing roof and the new roof.

Adhere ice-and-water barrier along the eaves and up the valleys. Then nail metal valley flashing overtop. Add No. 15 building paper, then shingles.

Building the tie-in framing on top of the existing shingles is a good way to keep the house waterproof as you construct the porch, but when it comes time to install the roofing youll have to cut the shingles along each of the valleys with a hook-blade utility knife. Then pry loose the cut shingles to make a wide path for the valley flashing (Photos 12 and 13).

We wont go into roofing details here. In general, cover the eaves and valley with strips of waterproof membrane (Photo 13) and install the sheet metal valley. Place roofing nails about 12 in. apart along the edge of the metal valley. Cut a short piece of valley metal to complete the top on each side, overlapping it about 6 in. onto the long piece.

Staple No. 15 building paper to the remainder of the porch roof, starting at the bottom and working up. Overlap each row 3 in. onto the one below. Install shingles to match the house. Follow the manufacturers instructions for starting, overlaps and nail placement. Use 1-in.-long galvanized roofing nails to avoid nailing through the tongue-and-groove ceiling.

Cover the triangular opening in the truss above the house wall by building a 22 frame and nailing 16 tongue-and-groove boards to the back. Then slide the frame into the opening and screw it into place. Fill the triangular space above the outside wall with a 24 frame (Figure C).

Then staple screening to it and cover the screens with stops, just as you do with the walls below. Practice on scraps to make accurate patterns for the steep angles. Then transfer the angles to the actual framing members. You may have to cut these angles with a handsaw; theyre too steep for a miter saw unless you build a special jig.

Nail a 210 trim board over the outside joist, 1-1/2 in. below the top surface of the deck. Cut a 24 sill piece to width and bevel the top on a table saw. Miter the ends and nail the sill to the top of the 210 trim board.

Cut lengths of screening and staple them to the framing. Start by tacking the two corners, making sure the screen is square to the opening. Then stretch the screen slightly and staple the sides, top and bottom. Place 1/4-in. staples every 3 in.

Cut 2x2s to fit and screw them to the framing to cover the staples along all the edges. Frame and screen the outer gable end following Figure C.

The charcoal aluminum screening we used is strong and long lasting, but you have to handle it carefully to avoid creases and dents. Carefully unroll the screen on a large work surface and cut lengths about 3 in. longer than you need. Reroll each piece and carry it to its location. Photo 15 shows how to staple the screening to the framing.

After you stretch and staple each section, cut off the excess screen with a sharp utility knife. Then cover the edges with 22 trim pieces (Photo 16). We screwed these on to allow for easy removal for future screen repairs.

If you use a wood door like ours, start by trimming it just enough to fit in the opening. Then set it in place and mark the door for final fitting. Use a sharp plane or belt sander to trim the door. You may have to repeat this process a few times to get a good fit.

Nail 1/2 x 2-in. wood stops to the framing at the door opening. Then hang the door using galvanized or brass screen door hinges. Mount a latch and door closer to complete the job.

This illustration shows how the corners are assembled and the trim is installed.

Have the necessary tools for this how to build a screened in porch DIY project lined up before you startyoull save time and frustration.

Originally posted here:
How to Build a Screen Porch: Screen Porch Construction ...

This project can include any interior area where the light comes in through many windows. Solariums are more like greenhouses, featuring full walls of windows. Other four-season rooms are more like enclosed porches. Still others are just light-filled spaces facing the back yard. Either way, adding a sunroom to your home is a wonderful way to upgrade its look and maximize your living area.

No matter the addition you choose, it can be used in many ways. You can enjoy feeling like you are eating outside while still remaining indoors. Many people consider it part of the home. They may even decorate the space with furniture and electronics, equipping it for lounging and entertaining guests. A number of cost factors play into adding a sunroom to your home.

ChampionMost Champion additions are custom, but the brand also offers some kits for $7,000 to $15,000. All rooms are vinyl, and you can expect installation by the manufacturer. Products and installation include a limited lifetime warranty.

PatriotFor $5,000 to $20,000, Patriots offers both custom installation and conversion kits for your porch. The company also acts as a contractor for the installation. It operates in the larger St. Louis area. Additions are available in vinyl or aluminum. All projects come with a lifetime transferable manufacturer's and labor warranty.

SunspaceSunspace offers modular kits that you can customize to fit your home for $10,000 to $25,000. The company will install the kit as part of that price. Aluminum and vinyl are the most common materials, though you can also find some wooden kits. The limited lifetime warranty includes a 10-year manufacturer's warranty on windows and doors.

Brady BuiltBrady Built sunrooms range between $15,000 and $30,000, including installation. They're fully assembled once they arrive at your home. Choose between vinyl and wood for a high-end finish. Brady Built offers a comprehensive 25-year warranty for all its products.

California SunroomsA kit from this brand ranges between $5,000 and 15,000. That budget does not include installation, which you must organize. Kits are aluminum or vinyl. A limited lifetime warranty includes glass and windows.

Think about exactly where your new structure will be. This will dictate the direction you take with design. If it's an area that gets direct sunlight, consider adding an enclosure with shading abilities.

Are you going to watch TV in your new addition? Be sure to install electrical wiring. Do you live in an area that gets a lot of snow, hail, or strong winds? Your project will need additional insulation and possibly a different design to accommodate. Do you need a heating and/or cooling system so that you can use the space year-round?All these questions need consideration when planning your project. Each of them affects the cost of your addition.

Placement on a Patio or DeckA patio enclosure costs between $8,500 and $24,000 in most cases. You can build your sunroom onto an existing patio, which means you don't have to pay extra to stabilize the construction.

However, any DIY project has to include consideration of potential drawbacks:

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Sunroom Addition Prices - homeadvisor.com

Sunroom Additions: Debunking the Myths of Four Season and Three Season Sunrooms For Madison, Wisconsin

ClearView Sunrooms and Windows builds sunroom additions using new designs, technology and materials to create valuable living space and unique family areas in homes through Madison and Wisconsin.

Advances in sunroom design technology creates a four season sunroom uniquely suited for Wisconsin weather and your familys needs. Just a few of sunroom improvements include:

Article Intro

We are definitely in a different era when it comes to sunrooms, says Ben Kripps, President of ClearView Sunrooms & Windows. They are better looking, better performing and much more energy efficient than in the past.

Stuck in the Past

Some people think of the products of thirty years ago when they consider a sunroom addition to their homes, says Kripps. They are usually very pleasantly surprised when they learn the single pane glass, aluminum; metallic-looking, non-insulated glass-roofed structures are now just a bad memory.

Four season sunrooms can change the feel, square footage and the use of your home almost overnight. So you can enjoy your Sunroom in Madison Wisconsin to the fullest, your sunroom must be built to withstand the elements; freezing cold in winter and hot, humid summers.

This article reviews the basics you must consider to help ensure your four season sunroom has all of the qualities it needs to deliver year round enjoyment.

Article Intro

A common question asked is, Can we build on our deck or concrete slab/patio? Unfortunately, the answer is usually no. While there are instances where the existing structure allows this to occur, it is rare. The Uniform Dwelling Code (UDC) applies to the entire state of Wisconsin and local building inspectors adhere to the code. If you have someone who says you can build on a deck or patio, it is a good idea to get an additional opinion. Some of the basics you need to consider when building your sunroom:

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Sunroom - Articles

If youre considering a sunroom addition for your home in Chula Vista, rely on the experts at Pacific Patio for the best products and installation services in Southern California. Since opening our doors in 1989, we have constructed thousands of stunning additions of all shapes and sizes, each one customized to perfectly suit the homeowners personal tastes and budget. Our A+ rating with the Better Business Bureau and stellar reputation are reflections of our ongoing commitment to provide an unbeatable level of customer service throughout every project, from first contact to final inspection.

When you turn to Pacific Patio for a sunroom addition, one of our designers will inspect your home, discuss your renovation goals, review all of the many options available for your build, and provide a free price quote based on your selections. Unlike some other contractors, we never use high-pressure sales pitches or bait-and-switch tactics to manipulate homeowners into buying something they dont want. We dont have to. With so many choices, youll have no problem finding an addition youll absolutely adore.

In addition to a no-obligation initial design consultation, you can also expect:

Few home improvement projects have the potential to make as dramatic an impact on where you spend your leisure time as a sunroom addition. Make sure you partner with a company that has the knowledge and experience to ensure you are entirely satisfied with your investment. Contact Pacific Patio today to schedule an in-home meeting at your Chula Vista residence.

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Sunroom Addition Chula Vista CA, TEMO | Pacific Patio

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The cost to build a patio enclosure depends on what you envision. Youll spend anywhere between $8,411 and $24,222, with an average price of $16,181 for most enclosures. By enclosing the patio, you add more livable space to your home. Some people turn their patios into sunrooms, while others merely add screens to protect from bugs. There's also the option to completely enclose the room into another regular room on your home. The goal is to have an outdoor space where you can relax, maybe sipping a beverage and watching the sun rise or set. Here are some cost factors to keep in mind when creating your patio enclosure.

The first decision you need to make is: what kind of enclosure do you want? There are three varieties: full enclosure, partial enclosure or a sunroom. How do you tell the difference?

Some factors you need to keep in mind when choosing between these three options are:

While you wont have to worry about most of these with a partial enclosure, they are major considerations with a full enclosure or a sunroom. This is especially true if you will have to knock down walls for the addition to your home.

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Roofs are essential to protecting your enclosure from weather conditions. Depending on the type of enclosure, you can choose between a traditional roof or an awning. When considering which one to invest in, here are some pros & cons to consider:

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Another factor to consider in your enclosure is the total square footage. Youll have to figure out the size, which then determines how much in materials youll need. The bigger the square footage, the more youre going to spend on everything else. Thats where partial enclosures will not cost as much, despite its square footage. The easiest thing you can do with them is to add screens, which is far less expensive than starting from scratch.

Make sure to keep the following in mind when determining square footage:

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Outside of full, partial or sunroom, there are more specific types of enclosure designs to consider in your overall construction:

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If you want to have a very elaborate and complex addition, then youre going to need windows. Sunrooms usually have 40% of the walls covered in windows. So you need to consider how many windows you want, what size and any insulation or decorative add-ons. Youre going to probably pay about $1,200 to $3,200 for four windows. It will be more if you add more than five windows.

If this sounds incredibly expensive, then you might consider screens instead. Mesh, curtains or other types of see-through material are less expensive to add than windows. However, that does come with the downside of not enjoying your enclosure in inclement weather. If you want to add screens around your enclosure, expect to pay about $280.

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Some types of enclosures will need permits. Full enclosures or custom sunrooms will definitely require this, especially if they change your homes existing structure in any way. Partial enclosures probably will not require one, unless you do something complex in addition to screens or windows. Youll pay around $910 for a permit. Check with your local municipalities before you embark on this project. You dont want to redo the project later because it isnt up to code.

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Once your enclosure is up and running, its time to consider the extras. What kind of space do you want the enclosure to be? What will be its overall purpose for you? Here are some add-ons you might consider for your enclosure:

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2018 Patio Enclosure Cost | Average Price to Build a Sunroom

Regardless of what youre looking for in a sunroom or conservatory, Petkus Brothers has the product to suit your needs. Our designs come in a variety of architectural styles, not to mention materials. Whether you want aluminum, vinyl, or natural wood, we have the material to breathe new life into your Antelope or Roseville home.

As the regions leading sunrooms and solariums provider, we offer a wide selection of sunroom and conservatory styles that meet your needs, and most importantly, your budget. Looking to add a custom-designed solarium as a room addition to your magnificent home? Our team of experts will work with you from start to finish, ensuring that you get the room youve always dreamed of having.

Enjoying the breath-taking views of all that nature has to offer isnt the only benefit that youll get from a Four Seasons sunroom from Petkus Brothers. We build our room additions with only the finest quality materials. That means you can take comfort knowing that your new sunroom is insulated and energy-efficient.

Whether you love the lighting and space of a cathedral sunroom or the modern appeal of the Four Seasons Loggia Room Addition, our premium-quality sunrooms will make your home the subject of your neighbors envy. Youll also enjoy lower utility bills and do your part in going green by reducing your homes energy consumption.

From hosting parties to enjoying private nights relaxing under the stars at night without having to leave home, the possibilities are endless when you add a new Four Seasons room addition to your home.

If youre looking for unmatched quality and style in your sunroom or solarium, then look no further than Petkus Brothers.

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Sunrooms Patio Rooms and Conservatories in Sacramento, CA

25 year anniversary sale

For 25 years Lifespan Home Improvements has been offering bathroom remodeling, window installations, and affordable sunroom additions all along the Wasatch Front from Ogden to Provo. We would like to say thank you to all of our loyal customers in Utah by having a sale on our best products! See our specials below and check out our Salt Lake City showroom. Contact us for free pricing and a free design of your replacement windows, bathroom remodel, or sunroom addition.

When you hire Lifespan Home Improvements, you can rest assured that you are working with a professional and respectable Salt Lake City company. Over the last 25 years, we have provided Utahns from Provo to Ogden with a variety of home improvement products including bathroom remodeling, shower conversions, sunroom additions and window installation. Our work speaks for itself. Here are just a few of the things our customers love:

We only hire the best factory trained craftsmen.

All of Lifespan products are made in the USA and built with American pride.

Our Product Warranty is a limited Lifetime Warranty. While the Industry standard is only 10 years!

We will show you what to expect before we start. This way you know exactly what you are getting.

Get Free Pricing

Lifespan Home Improvements is an experienced and trusted home improvement company. We specialize in offering industry leading remodeling products ranging from walk-in tubs, and bathroom remodels to sunroom additions and replacement windows. We proudly serve homes throughout the Salt Lake Valley from Ogden to Provo and Park City to Tooele. Lifespans team of skilled designers and craftsmen are the best in the business at providing each customer with an exceptional experience. Lifespan Home Improvements has the talent, the knowledge, and experience to ensure your home improvement project, whether it be replacement windows, a sunroom addition or a simple bathroom remodel, is built with to the highest quality standards.

We are proud to offer free design work for all of our prospective customers in the Salt Lake City area to help guide them through the decision making process. Our highly skilled team will ensure your sunroom addition or bathroom remodel is handled with great pride from start to finish. Whether you live in Provo or Ogden, let us show you why we are the trusted choice in home improvement for so many in Utahns already. Each of our staff members will treat your home as if it were their own, installing top quality replacement windows, bathroom systems and more.

All of our work comes with a limited lifetime warranty, and we offer our Utah customers a satisfaction guarantee. If you dont absolutely love your remodel or addition, well make it right at no extra cost to you. This warranty applies to all of Lifespans home improvement products including windows, decks, sunrooms, bathroom systems and more. We also offer same-as- cash financing on remodeling projects in Salt Lake City with no application fee, no closing costs, and no prepayment fees.

Link:
LifeSpan HI - Sunroom Additions in Utah

Sunrooms are a very cost effective way to increase your living space at a fraction of the cost of building a new room addition. Duralum has been the leader in insulated and non-insulated patio covers for over 50 years and their Duralife sunroom line has never failed to disappoint. Duralife is made right here in the United States of America and their employees offer over 50 years of manufacturing experience. Duralum is known for their warranty and not many companies can offer a lifetime warranty on all of their products including their Duralife sunrooms.

The patio enclosure system utilizes only recycled aluminum and glass because they use far less fossil fuels and are more responsible for our environment. Duralife rooms are energy efficient and their advanced technology allows a comfortable environment despite the heat outside. Sunrooms in general are a very cost effective way to increase your living space at a fraction of the cost of building a new room addition.

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Sunroom San Jose and Bay area, Sunroom Enclosures, Sunroom ...