December 11, 2013 - Suitable for use in Ex zone 1/21 and 2/22 hazardous areas, EXLUX 6001 Luminaires come in 18, 36, or 58 W models that operate at ambient temperatures as low as -30C. Units include 4 mm cage clamp terminals, 5-core through-wiring, and full-phase safety shutdown. Silicone based foam gasket is resistant to various chemicals as well as UV radiation. In addition to sealing solution, fitting's hinge and central lock ensure IP67 protection over many years. Original Press Release R. Stahl, Inc. 9001 Knight Rd. Houston, TX, 77054 USA R. STAHL's new line of light fittings for use in Ex zone 1/21 and 2/22 hazardous areas achieves better energy efficiency than comparable devices and provides approximately 10% more luminous intensity. New EXLUX 6001 luminaires also feature a design that is considerably more compact, stable, and torsion-resistant than their EXLUX 6000 predecessors. While more than one million of the long-proven EXLUX 6000 lights have been deployed worldwide over the last twenty-odd years, the new generation now meets increasing user demand for a similarly economic, yet enhanced product with improved technical features reflecting the most current state of the art. Depending on their performance class, the 6001 luminaires are a quarter to a third lighter than their predecessor models and many competing products. Users now also benefit from the extremely robust design of these slimmer, narrower units: unlike most lights, the new devices can be operated at extremely low ambient temperatures (as low as -30 C). In many cases, this amounts to a decisive extension of the application range that saves costs by making extra specifications unnecessary. In order to facilitate a step-by-step exchange of existing EXLUX pendants, the installation of the new units remains fully compatible to the predecessor series. Moreover, swiftly removable replacement parts ensure quick and easy maintenance. Like before, the new lights are available with customer-specific modifications on request. In addition, R. STAHL provides especially cost-efficient standard models with a power consumption of 18 W, 36 W, or 58 W that are available at short notice. Featuring 4 mm cage clamp terminals, 5-core through-wiring, and a full-phase safety shutdown, these models are adequately equipped for the majority of all typical applications. The new series fully complies with the requirements of all current industry standards. Notably, the new silicone-based foamed gasket has been optimised for maximum durability, as stipulated by IEC 60079. This sealing solution, which is resistant to various chemicals as well as UV radiation, the fittings hinge, and a newly designed central lock reliably ensure IP67 protection over many years.

6001 series lights are available as of now. However, more products are due to follow in the new EXLUX generation: in 2013 and 2014, the program will be extended both by optional accessories, such as pole mount adapters, and by additional models such as emergency lights, lights with an address module, and T5 lights for use in zone 2. Moreover, LED lights from R. STAHL will also be available soon, though these will be based on a completely different housing and equipped with materials and features optimised for LED technology.

For more than 80 years, R. STAHL has been a trendsetting manufacturer of safety technology for hazardous areas. Based in Waldenburg, Germany, the company is one of the world's leading suppliers of explosion-protected automation, control and distribution, installation, operating and monitoring, lighting, signaling and alarm components and systems. Key products include customer-specific systems solutions for hazardous areas. R. STAHL's individual packages containing tailored product combinations and a wide range of services such as consulting, project planning, engineering and training courses for customers are designed to fully meet application requirements and customer needs. International certifications, approvals and patents demonstrate the company's expertise and allow for R. STAHL's products to be used throughout the world. http://www.stahl.de

R. STAHL Schaltgeraete GmbH Am Bahnhof 30 74638 Waldenburg Germany Kerstin WOLF Phone: +49 7942 943-4300 Fax: +49 7942 943-404300 kerstin.wolf@stahl.de

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Fluorescent Luminaires operate in hazardous areas.

WOODSTOCK Streamlining of cables and the installation of new LED fixtures and dimmers are brightening the outlook of the lighting setup at the Woodstock Opera House.

The second of a two-phase project to update old equipment will get going in January when contractors install 96 new dimmers to replace 36 old ones. Theyll also rearrange and add circuits.

During the first phase, completed earlier this year, the Opera House got a new digital lighting control console, LED stage lighting fixtures and low-voltage wiring. Phase one of the project cost the city about $86,000.

Contracts for the second phase were approved by the City Council last week at a cost of about $65,000.

The improvements up efficiency while pulling lighting components into a more organized state, Opera House Director John Scharres said.

Because theyve been added over periods of time, theyre in different housing, have different configurations, he said. Were taking the opportunity to straighten all of this out and make it essentially state of the art.

The LED lighting fixtures installed earlier this year open up color options for the theater. Previous fixtures were white lamp stage lights, colored by shaded gels. The new LED lights have the ability to, through digital controls, come up with just about any color instantaneously.

Its a fraction of the size of whats currently doing the work and expands our capability by a significant margin, Scharres said.

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Woodstock Opera House lighting setup upgraded

SYRACUSE, N.Y. Legrand, a leading provider of electrical wiring devices and home systems, today announced the availability of its new Pass & Seymour UL Fed Spec Grade USB duplex receptacle.

The new 125V Pass & Seymour UL Fed Spec Grade USB charger is available in 15 and 20A versions and features an improved overall 3.1A USB charging capability. The combination AC duplex tamper-resistant receptacles contain a patented shutter system which prevents the improper insertion of foreign objects as well as twin 5-volt DC USB charging ports that work with USB 2.0 and 3.0 compatible devices.

The strength and durability of the new receptacles makes them capable of withstanding heavy use due to their UL Federal Specification certification. The UL listed Fed spec USB chargers are specially designed for the commercial market including health care and education facilities, airports, retail, hospitality/lodging, offices, institutional and multiple dwellings.

Not only do these markets require robust receptacles, but they increasingly require greater access to charging facilities for USB-powered devices, said Kevin Kohl, product line manager, Legrand Electrical Wiring Systems Division. Our new UL-listed Fed Spec USB Chargers will allow users to consistently and reliably charge their devices in safety and with confidence.

The Pass & Seymour UL Fed Spec Grade USB duplex receptacles feature stainless steel auto-ground clips to assure positive ground, zinc-plated ground terminal screw, as well as triple-wipe brass contacts for lasting retention. The screw-pressure-plate back wiring makes installation fast and easy.

The new chargers back and side wire terminals can accommodate #14 AWG - #10 AWG stranded and solid copper wire. The UL Fed Spec USB Charger is cULus listed and complies with the following test requirements UL 498, UL 1310, Fed Spec WC596, CSA C22.2 No. 42 and CSA C22.2 No. 223.

Multiple color options of the new device are available.

Connect with Legrand on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/legrandna, Twitter http://www.twitter.com/passandseymour or http://www.twitter.com/legrandna, and YouTube http://www.youtube.com/legrandna

About Legrand Legrand is the global specialist in electrical and digital building infrastructures. Its comprehensive offering of solutions for use in commercial, industrial and residential markets makes it a benchmark for customers worldwide. Innovation for a steady flow of new products with high added value and acquisitions are prime vectors for growth. Legrand reported sales of close to $5.8 billion in 2012. Legrand has a strong presence in the North American market, with a portfolio of well-known product lines that include Cablofil, Electrorack, Middle Atlantic, NuVo, On-Q, Ortronics, Pass & Seymour, Vantage, Watt Stopper and Wiremold. The company is listed on NYSE Euronext and is a component stock of indexes including the CAC40, FTSE4Good, MSCI World, ASPI and DJSI (ISIN code FR0010307819). http://www.legrand.us

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USB Duplex Receptacle meets UL Federal specifications.

Chapter6 - Wiring/Electrical

Before you can legally tow your trailer on public roads, you have to have working trailer lights. In fact, this is more important than simply risking a ticket - if your trailer lights don't work, you're inviting an accident. Always check your trailer lights before you leave on any towing trip, no matter how short.

Most trailers come with lights and wiring installed for you. If your trailer's lights and wiring are missing or beyond repair, it's usually very easy to install replacements. Any reputable camping or trailer center will have kits that use standard wiring connections and standard color-coded wires.

Understanding Trailer WiringTrailer wiring harnesses use 4 to 7 wires to control basic lighting and brake functions. The simplest connectors for the smallest trailers use four wires on a flat plug to control tail lights, brake lights, and turn signals. Connectors with 5, 6, and 7 wires add (in order) backup lights, electric brake control, and auxiliary power. To make trailer wiring less confusing, there's a standard color-coding for each of the 7 possible wires and their functions. The chart in Figure 6-1 shows standard wire colors and their functions:

4-Way

5-Way

6-Way

7-Way

Green

Yellow

Originally posted here:
Trailer Wiring & Electrical - Installation Guide | Hitch Info

Installing the Wiring Margin of Error: 1/4"

Local and national codes require wire that is insulated and is the most efficient size for the appropriate application. The most commonly used interior wiring is a 12 or 14-gauge NM (nonmetallic) sheathed cable, sometimes called "Romex." Within the cable are plastic-coated copper wires, colored for each function.

Hot wires, usually black (sometimes red or blue), carry the power. Neutral wires, usually white, return the power. Grounding wires of bare copper (sometimes green or green and yellow) provide a path to the ground when an electrical failure occurs.

Beginning at the breaker box, expose enough wiring to reach the breaker switch and neutral bus bar. Use a cable stripper to prevent cutting the plastic coating on the wires.

Knock out a box tab that will provide a direct route to the switch for the wiring. Knock out the tab at the junction box that provides the closest connection for each separate cable. Pull the wire and secure with a cable connector. Make sure that only the uncut sheathing is clamped at this opening.

Splice the cable back far enough to allow at least 6" of lead wire to stick out of the face of the box.

Push the wire through each hole and roll the wire within the notches of the studs, keeping the wire smooth and free from kinks. Secure it with horseshoe nails at the notches. Local code will tell you how close to the junction box the first horseshoe nail must be (usually 8"), and how often the wire must be supported (usually every 4 1/2').

If, for any reason, you find that a wire does not reach from one junction box to another, do not tape two wires together to make it longer. Separate wires should only be connected at junction boxes that will be placed in the wall. It is a good idea, and often required by code, to make these junction boxes accessible by placing a solid cover-plate over a junction that will not make use of a receptacle. Try to play it safe and use a wire that is long enough to reach.

Provide at least 6" of wire to spare at each end. Local code may vary on this length, so be sure to check. It is a good idea to label both ends of each wire with colored tape so you can always determine where it leads.

Where there is less than 1 1/4" between the face of the stud and the wiring, nail guards should be placed on the studs to protect the wire from any nails or screws that will attach the wall covering.

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Home Wiring 6 - Install Home Wiring | DoItYourself.com

Jeffery Keilholtz

Jeffery Keilholtz began writing in 2002. He has worked professionally in the humanities and social sciences and is an expert in dramatic arts and professional politics. Keilholtz is published in publications such as Raw Story and Z-Magazine, and also pens political commentary under a pseudonym, Maryann Mann. He holds a dual Associate of Arts in psychology and sociology from Frederick Community College.

Homes have numerous light fixtures, devices and appliances requiring electrical power. Outlets are positioned in every room --- typically multiple outlets per room. Installing residential electrical wire connects outlets to a main circuit breaker --- the main source of power --- generated from a larger, outside source. Electrical wire is one of the first installation requirements after basic framing has been completed on a new house; although new wiring can be added at any time. Consider consulting an electrical professional before attempting any electrical installations.

While it is best to leave residential electrical wiring to a licensed electrician, as most city codes require, a general knowledge of...

How to Install Residential Electrical Wire. Homes have numerous light fixtures, devices and appliances requiring electrical power. Outlets are positioned in every...

When working with wiring and electricity for a home, it's essential to remember what can occur if the process is done incorrectly....

How to Install Residential Electrical Wire. Homes have numerous light fixtures, devices and appliances requiring electrical power.

Make sketches about running new wiring, ... run electrical wiring to all outlet boxes and light fixtures you will install ... How...

With the price of oil rising every year, people all around the world are scrambling to start using a different form of...

Electrical wires vary in their sizes and colors. However, the National Electric Code, or NEC, has clearly specified and employed specific wire...

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How to Install Residential Electrical Wire | eHow

tech section Computers Home Theater Mobile Personal Electronics Web eHow Now eHow Electronics TVs Cable TV DIY Cable Wiring Installation

Wesley Tucker

Wesley Tucker is a lifelong southerner whose politics are objective, whose sports are many and whose avocations range from aviation to anthropology to history and all forms of media. With a master's degree in mass communications from the University of South Carolina College of Journalism, Tucker has been a writer for more than 30 years, with work ranging from news reports to feature stories.

Cable access wiring is simple because coaxial cable (whats used for television transmission) is a single wire with insulation and an all-weather outer coating. The single wire means theres no need to worry about a wrong connection or using the wrong type of cable. Coaxial cable is the same and fittings, connections and jacks have the same specifications. If you want to wire your house for cable dont worry about getting the right kind because there is only one. You also dont have to worry about electricity or other hazards because coaxial cable carries no current.

Whether you have in-ground cable service or a satellite, the first thing to do is get the cable inside. There are two options: drill a hole or find an adequate opening. Drilling means having a special drill bit that will penetrate brick (if you have a brick home) and long enough to reach through to the interior. Most of these bits are about 10 inches long. You can also get grommets to fit around the cable to make a tight waterproof seal where the cable enters the building.

Once inside you should make an effort to make the cable as unobtrusive as possible. A black cable running across the floor doesnt look good and you dont want anyone tripping or snagging the cable. A good way to wire cable in the house is around the edge and underneath wall-to-wall carpeting. This way keeps the cable out of sight and easy to install. When the cable comes into the house, cut it about 6 inches long and crimp a threaded fitting to the end. Cable crimping tools are easily found in all hardware and electronic stores. Attach a male/male adapter to the cable end. This is a small metal fitting with threads on both sides. It is sort of a two-sided screw. Then attach your cable and run it to the cable or satellite converter box or directly to your cable ready TV.

If you bring the cable in downstairs and want it upstairs, your choices are the same: drill a hole or find an unobtrusive way to run the cable up the stairs and to the television. Carpeted stairs make this easy just like with the carpeted room installation. If not you might have to drill a hole in a wall and run the cable through the space up to the upstairs. This is done with a cable snake, another tool you can buy or rent. Its a long flexible metal probe that looks like a long thin spring. Uncoil it into the hole from the upstairs down to the hole in the downstairs wall. Attach the cable to the snake and pull up and out upstairs. Just make sure you have plenty of cable for this. Once the cable is upstairs, use the grommets to seal and make a more attractive finish to the location where the cable emerges from the wall.

Cable television brings hundreds of TV stations and better reception than can be had by using an antenna. The cable company typically...

Coaxial cable is the kind of copper cable used by cable TV companies to connect between their line and cable TV subscribers....

Since many cable companies charge extra to wire more rooms, one way of saving money is doing it yourself. The typical three-room...

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DIY Cable Wiring Installation | eHow - eHow | How to Videos ...

Use these tips and instructions for adding new electrical wiring. Take a few minutes to read the directions thoroughly. Following these instructions can save you time and effort and ensure a safe installation.

BASIC PRINCIPLES OF GOOD WIRING

Before beginning any electrical repair, shut off the power. Remove the fuse or trip the breaker for the circuit you will be working on in your service panel. Use a neon tester to be sure the power is off. If there is any doubt, you can remove the main fuse or trip the main breaker. Remember: Removing the main fuse or tripping the main breaker will usually shut off the power to the entire house.

Electrical wires are color coded to prevent wiring errors. White wires almost always connect to other white wires or to chrome terminal screws on switches and receptacles. Some wiring devicessuch as receptaclesare back-wired by pushing the bare wire end into spring grip holes. These wiring devices are plainly labeled to show which color goes into each spring grip hole. Switches are nearly always connected into black wires in cables. The only exception is where a cable is extended, making it necessary for the white wire to play the role of the black wire. When this is necessary, the white wires should be painted black to prevent future wiring errors. Study the wiring diagram. This will help you understand the basic principles of good wiring. Also, find a good electrical how-to book. It's one book every homeowner should keep on hand for ready reference. Most home wiring is complete with either No. 14 gauge or No. 12 gauge wiring. No. 14 is the smallest wiring permitted under most codes. Always use the same size cable for a continuation of any extended wiring circuit.

CONNECT NEW WIRING TO LAST OUTLET IN CABLE

New wiring should be connected to the last outlet in a run of cable. To locate the last outlet in the run, shut off the current. Remove the cover plates from each outlet on the circuit. The last outlet in the run has wires connected to only two of the four terminal screws. The two unused terminal screws on the last receptacle serve as a starting point for wiring to a new outlet.

ATTACHING CABLE FOR NEW WIRING

Shut off the power to the circuit you will be working on at the service panel. Loosen the screws holding the receptacle in the box and remove it, as shown. Attach the the earth wire (the bare or green) to the chrome terminal. The yellow (or green in some instances) wire should be connected to the receptacle and the box maintaining the equipotential bonding on the earth system. The earth wires should only be connected to the correct screw terminals on the recepticle to the brass terminal on the receptacle and to the box, if the box is metal. Use care to match the size of the original cable. If No. 12 wire is used, continue with No. 12. If No. 14 wire is used, use No. 14 for continuing the cable. The size of the cable is usually stamped on the side of the cable. New wiring can be connected to continue the run beyond the last receptacle. Note that the new wires are pulled through knockout plugs in the back of the outlet box.

ADDING NEW WIRING FROM A JUNCTION BOX

New wiring can also be tied into a junction box, unless the wiring in the junction box is already at maximum capacity. Before tying in at a junction box, always trace the cables leading to the box to check the voltage. Be sure you are not connecting a 120-volt outlet to a run of wire providing 240 volts for larger appliances. To tie in new wiring at a junction box, first shut off the current at the service panel. Locate the main supply cable coming into the junction box from the service panel. Locate the supply wire by tracing the white wires. All white wires in the junction box will be attached to the white wire on the supply line. Knock out the unused plug on the junction box and run the new line from the box as illustrated. Be sure to use a cable clamp to secure the cable to the junction box.

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How to Install Electrical Wiring | DoItYourself.com

During the construction process, your electrical contractor will be one of the first professionals on site, and probably the last to leave. Before the saw cuts the first board, he will be the guy that wires the temporary pole to give it power. After the framing is erected, the electrician must install the electrical fixtures, outlets, switches, and wiring. Then to make it all work, the electrical panel must be installed and the wires connected to it. Because of the time involved to complete a job, it is always wise to get several estimates. This is also true for remodel jobs. The cost difference between a 200-500 square foot and 1000 2000 square foot electrical job is substantial.

Fixture installation is usually a two part process. The first part involves the actual installation of the fixture itself, and is accomplished once the framing is complete. The electrical wires are ran into the fixture, but not connected. Once the wall and ceiling surfaces are finished the electrical mechanism is installed, and the wires connected to it. Each portion of the process may be itemized on your bill, and will usually cost between $76 and $259.

The cost of a single pole switch installation is usually somewhat less than that of fixture installation because there is less time and effort required to perform the task. Two and three pole switches are more complicated, and therefore demand more cost than a single light switch. This part of the process will take place once the wall surfaces are fitted, but before the final finish is applied. The cost of this service is quite reasonable and can run anywhere $71 to $242.

While the installation of outlets might sound like a simple task, there are several rules that must be observed. Each state and county maintains electrical codes that are rigidly enforced to ensure safety and function of these devices. Basement installation is different than first floor installation, and the second story has its own rules. Houses in flood planes have a totally separate installation procedure. Your electrician is familiar with the codes in your area, and will likely charge between $88 and $301, for this service.

The electrical panel is the heartbeat of all the circuitry in a home. Every switch, outlet, light, and appliance is connected to this hub of efficiency. Properly connecting the electrical panel requires a great deal of skill, and calls for a licensed electrician. Do-it-yourselfers should never attempt this task for many reasons. The most important one being, death can result by electrocution. It is well worth the $421 to $1427, you will spend to have it done by a professional.

Wiring installation on a remodel job is usually more time consuming than on new construction, adding to the overall cost. The old wiring, fixtures, outlets, and switches must be removed before the new ones can replace them. Sometimes wires must be fished through walls and ceilings. This process can try the patience of the most saintly electrician, and is never an easy task to accomplish. The size of the project can make a considerable difference in the cost of completion. A 200-500 square foot space can typically be done for $230 to $1020 , while a 1000 to 2000 square foot area will average between $570 and $2525, depending on the complexity of the project.

As with any other part of your constructive endeavor, planning is an essential aspect of the wiring process. Having a clear plan of implementation, and sticking to it, will allow the job to proceed smoothly, and save you money in the long run. Having at least three estimates, and negotiating the price, is another advisable way to cut down on total cost. Following these two steps are the best ways to get your project done on time, and in budget.

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Electrical Wiring Installation Cost | Redbeacon

home section Interior Design Housekeeping Entertaining Home Improvement Gardening & Plants Landscaping eHow Home & Garden Landscaping & Outdoor Building Landscaping Basics Underground Wiring Installation

Tom Lutzenberger

Since 2009 Tom Lutzenberger has written for various websites, covering topics ranging from finance to automotive history. Lutzenberger works in public finance and policy and consults on a variety of analytical services. His education includes a Bachelor of Arts in English and political science from Saint Mary's College and a Master of Business Administration in finance and marketing from California State University, Sacramento.

Running wiring throughout your backyard, particularly under a patio area or a hot tub for example, requires some planning and protection. If the wiring is not properly encased it will degrade from exposure to the soil, and it will eventually get crushed or broken by weight. To avoid this, underground wiring involves running the wire through conduits that basically function as tunnels. This protects the wiring with an outer casing. However, the process needs to be thought out since it can't be easily replicated after the fact when the backyard is in place.

Plan where your backyard lighting will be located using a pen and paper design replicating your current backyard dimensions. Anticipate all the electrical units that will be necessary prior to starting any work. Draw these items on your design page to use later for counting up supplies needed.

Mark the backyard with wood stakes where the entry and exit points will be for the wiring underground. Provide sufficient clearance for the entrance and exit points from where the patio cement will sit. Dig with a trench shovel the corresponding trenches the wiring will sit in at least two feet deep into the dirt.

Hire an electrician to install a dedicated GFI connection to your house electricity if one is not available on the outside of the house. Make sure he connects an internal switch to turn power on and off to the socket.

Obtain enough PVC pipe to run the lengths of the trenches you dug in Step 2. Insert or fish the wiring through the PVC pipe for each wiring distance needed per your plan.

Lay the wiring-PVC in the trenches, leaving sufficient wiring length sticking out of both ends. Fill the trenches up with dirt so they are firmly packed. Position a wiring box at the end of the wiring that will be used to plug your lighting into. Install a connector plug or prong at the opposite end of the wiring that will be used to connect to the house electricity.

Install a plug cover on the house socket so that it won't be exposed to the elements. Secure the cover to the house socket with a screwdriver. Plug in the wires for the lighting to the house socket. Turn on the lights in the garden to test that they work properly.

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Underground Wiring Installation | eHow - eHow | How to Videos ...