Handyman Hints: Up we go

This week we install our suspended ceiling. However, before getting to the matter of the perimeter moldings and cross tees, let's devise a plan.

Required tools? Pencil, graph paper, and tape measure. What goes on the paper? Any and all ceiling obstacles that will interfere with the regular installation of our main tees and cross pieces, including light fixtures, stairways, posts, windows valances, and ductwork.

Due to the fact the 12 ft. main tees support the entire weight of the grid system and tiles, our goal will be to have them extend from wall to wall with as few breaks, or separations, as possible. The only sure way to achieve this is to draw the grid on paper first, keeping in mind that your first main tee should run down the center of the room. Centering the first main tee will ensure equal spacing of the perimeter tiles, an esthetic must-have.

If an obstruction won't allow a center main tee, shift this center tee over by 6, 12, or 18 inches. Position the main tees 4 ft apart. Once the main tees are drawn in place, sketch in the 4 ft. and any 2 ft. cross tees. Basically, we want equal perimeter spacing, along with as wide a perimeter tile as possible. Tiles cut too narrow become brittle, and tend to break or crack as they're raised into the grid.

The only exception to this "avoid too narrow a tile" rule, is if for decorative or strategic purposes, your plan would benefit from a 6-9 inch perimeter. Such could be the case with the raised pattern of an elite series tile. Because elite, or premium series tiles, can have very intricate step down or wavy type surfaces, requiring the installer to painstakingly cut every tile edge to the matched specifications of the three other sides, which will add hours to the installation process, choosing a plain tile to act as a perimeter is not such a bad idea. A plain perimeter will not only provide a little formality to the ceiling space, but it'll save you a few bucks as well, a sort of "class without the cost" type of scenario, since plain tiles are only a fraction of the price of an elite series tile.

Next, ceiling height. For the easier installation of rigid tiles, be sure to place the perimeter molding at least 4 inches below the joists system. Allowing yourself 3 inches of the space to work with will be very frustrating, while dropping the tiles down only 2 inches may very well push you towards mental calamity. Understandably, something that's basically made of crushed paper, doesn't bend so well, or allows itself to be force-fitted, without you either breaking a corner, or scratching the tile's surface, two absolute issues that will challenge you every time you attempt to place a tile in position. What about beams or low hanging ductwork? Finish or box in the beams with ready to paint MDF or finger-joint pine panels, then attach the perimeter molding in the same manner you would against a wall.

If possible, re-direct ductwork to the perimeter of the room. Then box it in. Or, paint the ductwork white (to match the tiles), or black (for that contemporary, industrial complex look), then install a valence (made of 1x6 or 1x8 FJ pine) on either side of the duct, to which you will attach the necessary perimeter molding. Install the perimeter molding first, using either a hand held level, or better yet, laser level to guide you. Next, pull a mason's line along the center or the room, tucked under the perimeter molding, parallel to the joists. The mason's line, or string, will be essential to you setting the main tees in a level position. Check the drawing, then mark an "x" on the joist where the first main tee will cross, then mark a spot every 4 ft. on either side of the first "x", along the same joist. These points will indicate where the main tees will cross the room.

In order to avoid sag, main tees must be supported at every third joist (4 ft.). So, mark an "x" on these spots as well, then twist in an eye-screw, and about 8-10 inches of tie-wire, on every mark. Use tin snips to cut the main and cross tees (a hack saw will do a sloppy job) and pliers to fit and twist the tie-wire through the pre-cut slots of your main tees. After having installed a few cross tees, insert a tile or two to verify that everything is going up squarely.

Happy ceilings.

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Handyman Hints: Up we go