Home Builder Developer - Interior Renovation and Design

According to a poll conducted by HomeAdvisor, the average NJ bathroom remodel costs somewhere around $10,000-$15,000. But thats a very rough figure as there are a lot of factors at play that could heavily impact the cost of your project. Its best to give schedule your own complimentary in-home consultation with one of our expert designers so that we can give you an accurate estimate for your bathroom remodel. To schedule your free consultation, you can give us a call at (609) 268-5923 or complete our consultation request form and one of our team members will contact you immediately.

When you choose Amiano & Son Construction for your bathroom remodel, you can expect to get the best service in the business. Were an award-winning home remodeling group with more than 50 years of experience in kitchen, bath, and home remodeling and additions. No matter how big or small your bathroom remodel project is, we have the experience to meet all your expectations. Give us a call today to schedule your free consultation.

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Bathroom Remodeling South Jersey | Amiano & Son Construction

OUR MISSION :

Dunn + Moran aims to provide design excellence by creating great people places through our collaboration with our clients. We aim to achieve this by creating an environment of mutual respect both with our clients and within our office.

OUR FOCUS:

Each project has an individually tailored service plan depending on our clients requirements and the nature of the project. We aim to design outdoor environments which are functional and beautiful landscapes for any scale.

Dunn + Moran has an experienced, energetic team that can facilitate successful project delivery. We employ a logical design process and are proud of our teams professionalism. We provide our clients with direct access to our senior personnel for the duration of each project. Our experience and hands-on approach enables us to make prompt and efficient decisions in short time frames. Dunn + Moran delivers a high quality of service encompassing innovative outcomes and successful integration of the built form with its environment. We take pride in delivering great people places and demonstrate a passion for life between buildings.

OTHER QUALITY SERVICES:

Dunn + Moran is led by two directors with complementary strengths of design and documentation. Our experience ranges from small scale site planning, to complete design and documentation of a variety of local and international projects which include open space, residential, retirement, health, commercial, education and infrastructure. Our design team draws on their experience to balance requirements across client, stakeholder and discipline specific needs.

We provide Master Planning, Concept Design, Schematic Design, Construction Services, Design Development, Contract Documentation, 3D Visualisation, Urban Design, Planting Design, Vegetation Management to our many and varied client base.

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Factors that Impact the Cost

The price to install a new water heater will likely be higher if you change fuel sources or switch from a water heater tank to a tankless unit. To lower these additional charges, our trusted professionals will discuss your options and recommend installing your new tankless unit near existing water and fuel sources. This will facilitate ventilation and reduce the amount of extra labor needed. There are a variety of other features that affect the total cost:

The cost of the permitThe amount of work required to bring your plumbing connections up to codeThe size of your new water heater (measured in gallons)The length of the warrantyEnergy efficient certification and other special features on the new unit

Other upfront costs may also be accrued for a tankless model with elite features and a higher efficiency grade. Gas heaters are also historically less expensive than electric heaters to run.

Energy Efficiency and Money Saving

Installing a tankless water heater is a greater upfront investment, but these units can significantly cut the cost of monthly utilities. The U.S. Department of Energy estimates that in homes using 41 gallons or less of hot water, on-demand tankless units can conserve between 24% to 34% more energy than tank water heaters.

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Cost to Install a Water Heater - The Home Depot

India's Largest Water Heating Solutions Provider

Through the years Racold has maintained its status as the frontrunner in India's waterheater industry thanks to our tenacity to adapt. We are constantly evolving with the changing needs of the generation and this is clearly seen in the innovation of our solar water heaters, gas water heaters and other state-of-the-art products. Being the recipient of the BEE Energy Award for 9 years in a row and multiple MNRE awards over the last few years alone, cements our status as the country's largest water heating solutions provider.

The initiative to harness the power of the sun helps reduce one's carbon footprint. In addition, our consideration of the rise in households that use gas pipelines reduces the dependency on electricity. These new and improved water heater geysers use state-of-the-art materials and a range of safety functions for both our commercial water heater range as well as those for households. It is this versatile and diverse product range of hot water geysers that make us the country's definitive supplier of water heating solutions today.

Racold is India's most trusted brand of water heaters from the house of Ariston, with a portfolio of premuim quality products that cover the entire spectrum of water heating solutions.

At Racold, our products are a testimony of our commitment towards understanding our customer's needs. This drives every innovation, while our products continue to deliver efficiency and eco-friendly benefits.

Being the leader in the water heater industry since the last five decades, Racold is a brand synonymous with breakthrough innovation, quality water heating solutions and complete customer satisfaction.

Quality hot water from racold enavble physical and emotional transformation.Racold believes in the power of hot shower and its ability to wash away the sorrows of yesterday and be reborn every day.

Racold has been recognized as Indias Most Trusted Water Heater Brand 2016 by Trust Research Advisory (TRA). The survey was conducted across 16 cities, among 20000 brands, grouped across 267 categories, thus making it the most intensive study on Brand Trust across the country. This is the first time Water heaters has been introduced as a sub category under Durables. Racold is the only Water heater brand to receive this recognition.

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Most Trusted Water Heater & Geysers Online in India - Racold

Are you ready to replace your old, bulky, and inefficient tank-style water heater? Today, there is really no need to keep wasting money and energy with traditional water heaters. There are various smarter and more efficient solutions available and electric tankless water heaters are definitely the easiest and the most functional way to satisfy your hot water needs.

We have looked at various tankless water heaters available on the market which run on electricity, and we have chosen 5 models that really stand out. Read on to see our top picks as well as a buying guide that will help you decide on the best electric tankless water heater for your needs. For those who wants to jump straight to our winner, here are our top pick.

5 Best Electric Tankless Water Heaters Reviewed

1. EcoSmart ECO27 - Best Seller in the Market

Ecosmart ECO27 is one of the most powerful models in the EcoSmart line of water heaters. It can heat up to 6 gallons of water per minute, which is more than enough for a large household. Its even strong enough for large Jacuzzi-style hot tubs. You can really count on this heater to provide hot water when you need it, which is why its considered to be one of the best tankless water heaters on the market.

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This tankless water heater comes with a digital control panel that allows you to adjust the temperature of the water with precision. You can set the temperature to anywhere between 80 and 140 degrees F.

One of the most important features of EcoSmart Eco 27 electric tankless water heater is the self-modulating technology. This means that this water heater is completely energy-efficient. It will automatically adjust the amount of energy it draws to the amount of water you are using, so no energy is wasted. This way, you will not only use less energy, but you will also save money on your electricity bills.

Even though its very powerful, EcoSmart ECO27 is also quite compact and beautifully designed, so it will fit in seamlessly almost anywhere. Furthermore, finding replacement parts for this water heater is very easy. It also comes with a limited lifetime warranty. However, the warranty will only be valid if the heater is installed by a licensed plumber and electrician.

2. SioGreen IR260 POU - Best Value for Money

The SioGreen IR260 tankless hot water heater is perfect for a cabin or a small household where you need hot water supply for only one or two people. It is very compact and easy to install, so it will easily fit into any cabinet, bathroom, or kitchen, even if you have very limited space. The dimensions of the unit are 13.5 x 8.5 x 3 inches which makes this SioGreen model one of the smallest models available.

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The Far-infrared technology is what makes this water heater different from most other tankless water heater models on the market. The heating tubes on this heater dont contain any metallic substances. Instead, they are made of Quartz. SioGreen uses these tubes in combination with carbon coating heating elements that create far infrared energy that heats the water inside the tubes. With non-metallic heating tubes, there is no risk of corrosion and the chances of limescale deposits forming are minimal. This makes SioGreen IR26 perfect for areas with hard water.

The IR260 Point of Use model from SioGreen lets you adjust how much power it uses manually. There are four settings, ranging from 10 to 30 amps. It also comes with a water flow regulator which lets you adjust the temperature to the perfect level. Overall, its the perfect unit to use for a single water source.

3. Rheem RTEX-18 - A Simple and Reliable Water Heater

Rheem is one of the most well-known tankless water heater brands. They are known for making functional and durable products. The RTEX-18 is a compact but powerful unit with simple, rugged design. It will provide up to 7 gallons of hot water per minute, which is enough for small to medium-sized households.

This water heater comes with a LED display that tells you the exact temperature of the water coming out. You can adjust the temperature in one-degree increments. The temperature range is from 80 to 140F.

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The heating elements on Rheem RTEX series models are made of copper and brass and they are designed in a way that makes them easy to service and replace. The Rheem RTEX-18 tankless water heater comes with two high-quality immersion heating elements. Furthermore, its a self-modulating water heater which means its able to adjust the power supply to the demand for hot water.

4. Stiebel Eltron Tempra 24 Plus - Top Notch Quality

Stiebel Eltron is a German company with a lot of experience in making tankless water heaters. They have been in the business for more than 90 years, so its no surprise they make high-quality and durable products.

Their Tempra series has been carefully designed to provide the best possible performance. All of the water heaters in this series are very functional and feature high-quality electronics. They also come with a hinged cover, which is quite a simple addition, but also very useful, since it allows for easy access.

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Stiebel Eltron has given a lot of attention to details when making the Tempra Plus. What really makes this unit stand out is the option to control the water flow with precision. This results in better and more accurate temperature control, so you will never run out of hot water.

The Tempra Plus tankless electric water heater from Stiebel Eltron is a very compact unit. Its dimensions are 14.5 x 16.625 x 4.625 inches, which means it easily fits just about anywhere. Despite its small size, this water heater is also very powerful and energy-efficient. Thanks to the advanced features, it will provide a constant hot water output even in rough conditions.

This unit also comes with a thermometer that shows the current water temperature on a display. You can adjust the temperature digitally, with only a push of a button. Overall, this is one of the best electric tankless water heaters available on the market.

5. Bosch AE115 PowerStar - Instant Hot Water Under the Sink

Bosch is a German company with a long tradition of excellence. The company was founded in 1886 and today they make a wide range of high-quality household appliances, among other products.

Bosch AE115 PowerStar is a tankless water heater designed for indoor use. It was designed to replace a traditional water heater with a tank that holds 40 gallons and it can be used to provide hot water on-demand throughout your house.

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This tankless water heater is highly energy-efficient with a maximum output of 17.25Kw. This means it can provide up to 2.6 gallons of hot water per minute, depending on the conditions. It will provide 2.3 gallons of hot water per minute when the temperature is set to 105 degrees, which is the ideal temperature for showering. However, 2.3 GPM means that this heater will generally provide enough hot water to keep only one device running at a time. For this reason, it might not be the best solution to provide hot water throughout a household, but its the perfect model to install under the sink for instant hot water.

The AE115 PowerStar water heater is equipped with which protects the unit from overheating and a thermometer that constantly monitors the output temperature. You can control the temperature using a control knob at the bottom of the water heater. The output temperature can be adjusted from 95 to 135 degrees F.

Tankless Water Heater vs Tank Water Heater

It doesnt matter if you are environmentally conscious or you just want to save money - switching from a traditional tank-style water heater to a tankless water heater is definitely a good idea. There are a couple reasons for this. Keep reading to find out more on the benefits of tankless water heater.

Energy Efficiency

First of all, tankless water heaters provide hot water on demand, so they waste much less energy than traditional water heaters, even though tankless water heaters use more energy while they are operating.

This means that using an electric tankless water heater will reduce your water-heating bills. If your household uses less than 41 gallons of hot water per day, youll be able to reduce the costs of water heating by as much as 34 percent by switching to a tankless water heater.

However, even if your daily needs exceed 40 gallons of hot water, a tankless water heater is still the more efficient solution.

Easy Installation and Maintenance

Second, electric tankless water heaters are not hard to install and require minimal maintenance. They are also much less prone to breakdowns and therefore much safer. Tank-style water heaters store large amounts of water for extended periods of time. This inevitably causes corrosion and limescale deposits over time, especially in areas with hard water.

If you switch to a tankless water heater, you will never have to face this type of problems again. You will never have to deal with replacing a ruptured tank, which can be a real nightmare.

Even when there is a problem, its much easier to find replacement parts for electric tankless water heaters. Actually replacing the parts is also a much simpler process than with tank-style water heaters. You can click here if you are looking for gas type water heaters instead.

Space Saving

Furthermore, electric tankless water heaters can be installed almost anywhere. They take up very little space, so they can fit into any corner or cupboard. You really dont need a designated place in your house for a water heater, as is the case with tank-style water heaters that take up a lot of space. Many tankless water heaters can also be installed on outside walls with the help of an anti-freeze kit. Furthermore, propane tankless water heaters require venting, but the electric ones dont, which makes them even more versatile.

No Hassles

Finally, there is the obvious benefit of endless hot water. If you choose the right size, youll never have to worry about emptying the water heater during a bath or shower again once you go tankless.

Electric Tankless Water Heater Buying Guide

Before you start looking for a tankless water heater its important to weigh out your hot water needs. For example, If you want to be able to run two showers and a faucet at the same time, youll need a water heater with much higher capacity compared to what is needed for running one device at a time.

To determine the right size of water heater for your needs, youll need to consider how many devices you want to run at the same time. Calculate how much gallons per minute all of the devices need together, and youll have the flow rate you need from your water heater. For example, an average faucet would have a flow rate of 1.5 GPM, while a flow rate of a shower head can go up to 2.5 GPM or even higher.

If you dont know the flow rate of your home appliances, there is no need to worry. You can easily determine it yourself by measuring how much water flows out over a certain period of time. Just to give you a general idea, in areas with normal climates, 4 GPM should be enough to run a shower and a faucet at the same time. A tankless water heater with a 7 GPM flow rate will easily satisfy a very high demand for hot water, like running three showers and a faucet simultaneously.

The climate you live in is also a very important factor when choosing a tankless water heater. Youll need to calculate the temperature rise your water heater needs to provide. This will depend on the temperature of groundwater in your area. For example, if the groundwater temperature is 70 degrees F, and you want your faucet to run hot water at 120 degrees, thats a 50 degrees temperature rise. If you live in an area where the groundwater temperature is lower than 60 degrees F, you should keep in mind that your water heater will need much more power to heat up the water to the desired temperature.

All tankless water heaters function in a similar way. Incoming cold water circulates through a heating chamber where it is heated up via the heat exchangers. In electric tankless water heaters, the heat exchangers are usually made of copper. This is because copper is a material with an exceptionally high thermal conductivity. However, there are some exceptions to this rule, like the SioGreen IR260 POU which uses far-infrared technology and heat exchangers made of quartz.

All of the water heaters on our list have a display that tells you the exact temperature of the water coming out of the heating chamber. This is really a necessary feature that every decent electric tankless water heater needs to have together with a mechanism that allows you to control the temperature. The temperature ranges water heaters offer vary, so this is another thing you should consider.

Many electric tankless water heaters also have a self-modulating mechanism. This mechanism allows the heater to automatically adjust to the hot water demand and use just the right amount of power. This way, youll have a stable stream of hot water and no energy will be wasted.

Finally, dont forget to factor in the cost of installation when choosing a water heater. Its much easier to install an electric tankless water heater than a tank-type water heater or a unit that runs on propane. However, youll most likely still need professional help. In some cases, the warranty on your water heater will be voided if you install the unit yourself, so always make sure to check if this is the case.

>> Looking for a suitable tankless water heater to incorporate with your home's floor heating system? Check out this article <<

Final Verdict

Ecosmart ECO 27 Electric Tankless Water Heater

Which electric tankless water heater should you get? The answer to this question will, of course, ultimately depend on your needs and the intended use. However, if we had to single out one best electric tankless water heater on the market, it would surely be the Ecosmart ECO27. It is not the cheapest unit on our list, but this water heater is definitely worth the investment.

The EcoSmart ECO27 provides up to 6 gallons of hot water per minute, which is more than enough even for large households. Furthermore, it will provide a constant stream of warm water even if the inlet temperature is as low as 37 degrees F, which is really hard to find in electric tankless water heaters. With the sleek design and the precise temperature control, there is really no reason not to love this unit! Finally, no matter which model you choose, we hope this guide has helped you make an informed decision you wont regret.

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Best Electric Tankless Water Heater Reviews for 2018

Residential Installations

If you need a new sewer treatment plant installation or a replacement to an old septic tank system at your home give us call, or send us an e-mail. Someone will schedule an appointment ot meet with you at your convenience.

If you're having a problem with a sewer line, we have the tools to help. Call or send us an e-mail to schedule an appointment. Remember One call requires 48 hours to do utility locates before excavation can begin.

Text a brief message explaining your situationto our businesscell 985-400-1149

My name is Chuck Pounds and my family has been in this business for four generations. My grandfather, Hershel Pounds began installing septic tanks in Mississippi in the early 1950's, before moving to Covington Louisiana, where he and my father Charles continued to install septic systems for many years.

In 1997, I started Pounds Sewer Systems. We install sewer treatment plant systems and septic tanks in MS and LA. We have actually upgraded many septic tanks to sewer treatment plant systems in and around the Covington area that my grandfather and or my father installed in years past.

With the help of my wife Robin and our two sons, Lee and Woodrow we continue to maintain our family owned and family operated business. Licensed and insured in both LA and MS we travel to meet the needs of our customers in both areas. Providing quality installation, service and repair of residential and commercial sewer treatment plant systems and septic tanks. Replacing effluent lines, aerators, sump pumps, & spray irrigation pumps for the systems we are licensed to maintain. We have installed many commercial systems for churches and businesses in both areas. Working with many area contractors.

For new construction systems or environmental upgrades call us or send us an e-mail. In LA it is required you obtain a permit from the office of public health prior to installing any system. In MS Marion County has a law requiring the property owner to obtain a soil test prior to sewer installation. We suggest you call the Health Department in your area prior to making any plans for septic or sewer treatment plant installation.

We take great pride in all our business and we want our customers to be happy with their choice in our company and refer us to all their friends, neighbors and colleagues. Call the local health department in your area and ask about Pounds Sewer Systems.Please goto our Facebook page and write a review and like our page.

The BIG name in this business for four generations

(985)892-0047

If you need a sewer system installed at your commercial site, give us a call, or send us an e-mail and someone will schedule an appointment to meet with you and discuss your particular situation.

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Pounds Sewer Systems - Residential Installations

Roll up your sleeves!Outside view of the porch

The screened in porch is light and airy.

The screened porch offers a nearly unobstructed view of the outdoors.

A screened in porch is a big improvement, but building a porch is also a big project, one that might consume most of your spare time this summer. So, were keeping this how to build a porch design simple. You can build it with standard dimensional lumber, and it doesnt require heavy beams or complex joints. The simple 24 walls are light and airy looking. Two horizontal bands of 2x4s, set 10 in. from the top and bottom of the wall, add a design element and stiffen the 24 framing enough to support the hand-built trusses. With this how to build a porch design, theres no need to precisely align the overhangs. And the exposed rafters and open soffit look great on many house styles.

The total cost of this how to build a porch was $6,500, but you could save hundreds of dollars without sacrificing quality by substituting treated decking for the cedar or using tongue-and-groove pine rather than cedar on the ceiling. Even though how to build a porch project is a large project, most of the construction is straightforward. If youve built decks or sheds, youll be able to tackle this job with confidence. In this how to build a screened in porch article, well show you the key steps for building this porch. Study the drawings and photos for more details.

Youll need a full set of basic carpentry tools, a circular saw and a drill to build this porch. In addition, a reciprocating saw, a table saw and a power miter box will make the job go quicker and give you better results. To reach high places safely and easily, we recommend renting a rolling scaffold system (Photo 8) for a month.

You can add this screened in porch to almost any house, but attachment details may vary from what we show here. On most two-story houses, you wont have to worry about tying in to the roof, but you may have to situate the porch carefully to avoid covering a window. The house roof sloped 5 in. per foot (this is called a 5/12 slope) and extended 18 in. at the overhang. Your roof may vary from this, and the details of how the porch ties in will vary as well.

If youre not sure how to neatly join the screened in porch and house roofs, we recommend hiring an architect to help work out the details. Another option is to build a full-size mockup of a roof truss out of inexpensive and lightweight 1x4s. Figure out where the top of the wall plate would be if you built the porch according to our plans (Figures A H). Then support the mocked-up truss at this height to see how the porch overhang meets the roof. If you dont like the way the overhangs intersect, adjust the level of the deck slightly, alter the wall height or change the width of the overhang.

Contact your local building inspections department to find out whats required to obtain a building permit. Start this process at least a month before you plan to build. This will allow enough time to work through potential problems.

These illustrations show the plans for the screened in porch, deck framing, gable framing, ledger, truss block, side walls and the end wall.

To print these how to build a porch plans, see Additional Information at the end of this story.

Bolt the ledger to the house. Then nail the perimeter joists together and level and square the assembly. Measure, cut and set the 66 posts.

Cut the joists to length and nail them into place with a pair of nails at each end. Then slide joist hangers onto the end of each joist and nail the hangers.

Start by marking the ledger board location on the house wall. We located the top of the ledger board 90 in. below the bottom of the soffit. On our house, this left a 6-in. step down from the patio door to the deck surface. Remove the siding and attach the ledger with 1/2 x 4-in. galvanized lag screws (Figure D). Make sure its perfectly level. If the ledger attaches to concrete, predrill holes and insert lead shield lag screw anchors before installing the lags.

After you mount the ledger, use stakes and string lines to outline the deck frame according to the dimensions in Figure B and mark the footing locations. A few days before you plan to dig the footings, call 411 to have underground utilities marked in the vicinity of the porch. Your local building department will specify how large and deep the footings should be for your climate and soil conditions. Pour a concrete pad in the bottom of each footing hole after theyve been inspected. Let the concrete set overnight.

Next choose the six straightest 2x10s for the perimeter beams. Cut the 2x10s for the two side beams to length and nail the pairs together. Use 16d stainless steel or double-dipped galvanized nails for all of the joist framing and to attach the joist hangers to the ledger board. Rest one end of each side beam in the double joist hangers and prop them up level with a stack of wood (Photo 1).

Nail through the joist hangers into the beams at the house to hold them in place. Then connect the opposite ends of the two beams at the front with a 210 cut to the same length as the ledger. Adjust the resulting frame until the diagonal measurements are equal. Then brace the frame against stakes pounded into the ground to hold it square while you install the treated posts, joists and decking (Photo 2). Sight along the outside rim joist occasionally and adjust the length of the joists as needed to keep the front rim joist straight.

Make a mark 1-5/8 in. out from the deck on both sides. Then make another mark 5-1/8 in. inside the first mark. Draw plumb lines up from these marks and cut a 5-1/8-in. slot through the siding but not the sheathing.

Mark the roof portion that overhangs the deck. Then cut the roof sheathing back even to the edge of the house and pry it off. Cut the rafter tails off flush with the house wall.

If your house has an overhang, youll have to cut it back flush to allow the innermost truss to fit against the wall. Start by removing the soffit and fascia boards above and several feet to each side of the deck. Its easier to remove extra soffit and fascia boards and patch them back after the porch is done than to calculate cutoff points now. After the soffit boards are removed, use a level to plumb up from the house wall to the underside of the roof boards, in line with the outside edges of the porch.

Mark the two points. Then drive a long screw or nail up through the roof boards at the two marks. Snap a chalk line between the nails and remove the shingles below and about 6 in. above the line. Chalk a new line and remove nails along the line. Then saw along the line and pry off the roof boards (Photo 4). Be sure to wear safety glasses and hearing protection when youre sawing. Finally, cut off the rafter tails flush to the house wall.

Youll have to decide whether to cut a slot where the porch walls meet the siding (Photo 3). If your siding is stucco, brick or stone, you may want to butt the walls to the siding. Photo 3 shows how to cut a slot for the wall. Set the saw blade just deep enough to cut through the siding only. Remove the siding. Waterproof the slot with No. 15 building paper.

Screw two sheets of plywood to the deck and mark the truss shape on them (Figure J). Screw stop blocks along the rafter lines and crosstie line. Assemble the trusses.

Prime and paint the truss parts, wall frame and screen stops before assembly. Prime the wood with a special stain-blocking primer such as Zinssers oil- based Cover-Stain. Then brush on a coat of acrylic exterior house paint. Make sure to prime every cut end as you work; otherwise these areas will absorb moisture and cause staining. We prefinished the roof boards with an oil finish (Cabot Clear Solution Natural).

Its easiest to assemble the roof trusses first, using the deck platform as a work surface. Screw two sheets of plywood to the decking and use the dimensions in Figure J to chalk lines indicating the top of the rafters and the bottom of the 26 crosstie. Cut triangular blocks and screw them to the plywood to hold the rafters in alignment as you assemble the trusses (Photo 5).

Cut a rafter using the dimensions in Figure J and use it as a pattern to mark the remaining rafters. Place a pair of rafters in the jig and screw the tops together. Next screw the 26 crosstie and 28 spacer to the pair of rafters. Keep the crosstie screws clear of the bolt hole locations. Complete each truss by screwing another pair of rafters on top.

Check the ends and tops of the rafters as you assemble the trusses to make sure theyre perfectly aligned. The trusses must be identical so that your roof boards and soffit trim will line up. Finally, elevate the truss on blocks of wood while you drill a pair of 1/2-in. holes into each end of the crosstie for the carriage bolts (Figure J). Run the 1/2 x 5-1/2-in. carriage bolts through the rafters and crosstie ends and tighten the nuts.

This illustration shows how to construct the trusses.

Cut the wall parts according to the plan and screw them together. Use the crosspieces as spacers to position the posts. Screw the crosspieces between the posts. Use a spacer block to ensure perfect alignment

Since the wall framing for this screened in porch is the finished surface, its worth taking a little extra time to make the framing material look good. We chose the nicest cedar 2x6s we could find and ripped them into 3-1/2-in. and 1-1/2-in. boards. We did this to create sharp, clean edges (we also ripped off all the factory rounded edges).

Cut the studs and crosspieces to length and screw the walls together (Photo 6 and Figures F H). We used a power miter saw for clean, square cuts, but a circular saw will work too. Use a crosspiece as a spacer when youre attaching the studs to the top and bottom plates (Photo 6). Then cut a 10-in. spacer block to position the crosspieces for assembly.

Stand the walls and screw the wall corners together. Align the walls flush to the deck and screw them down. Finally plumb and brace the walls.

Stand a truss against the house. Plumb and brace it. Set the outside truss and screw a 14 brace to it. Then stand and brace the remaining trusses. Toe-screw all of the trusses to the top wall plate.

The key to standing the walls is to check and double-check along the way to make sure theyre straight along their top and bottom plates, perfectly plumb and square, and securely braced (Photo 7). Start by positioning the walls with their outside edge flush to the deck and screwing them down. Next screw the corners together, making sure the top plates of adjacent walls are even with each other. Use a long level to plumb the walls while you attach diagonal braces to hold them in position (Photo 7). Leave the braces in place until after the roofing is complete.

Round up a couple of strong helpers to assist in setting the trusses. Start by marking the position of the trusses on the top plate and onto a 16-ft. 14 (youll use the 14 to brace and position the tops of the trusses as you stand them up). The first truss simply butts to the house wall. The outermost truss aligns with the edge of the top plate, and the three interior trusses are centered on the studs below. Set the first truss against the house and carefully center it so that 1-1/2 in. of the bottom 26 overhangs the top wall plates on each side.

Screw the truss to the top plates. Then use a straightedge and level to stand the truss perfectly plumb and brace it to the roof (Photo 8). Make sure this brace is securely screwed to the roof and the truss because the remaining trusses will be supported by this truss until the roof tie-in framing is complete.

Lift the remaining trusses onto the top of the walls and rest them on the first truss. Slowly and carefully slide the outermost truss to the outside end of the porch. Align the marks on the 14 with the truss at the house and the outermost truss and screw it to the trusses.

Center the outermost truss on the walls and toe-screw it to the top plate of the walls. Stretch a string line between nails at the peak of the two trusses. Align the remaining trusses with the string line and the marks on the 14 and top plates and screw them in.

Stretch a masons line across the peak of the trusses to position the roof tie-in framing. Use 3/4-in.-thick spacer blocks to raise the line to the correct tie-in framing height.

Cut 28 plates and nail them to the roof. Measure for the ridge. Cut the ridge and a pair of rafters and nail them to the plates. The framing should be exactly 3/4 in. above the top of the trusses.

Bevel the first roof board and nail it flush to the end of the trusses. Nail the remaining tongue-and-groove roof boards to the trusses. Cut the last board on each side to fit at the peak.

One of the trickiest parts of the porch construction is joining the two roofs. The key is to extend lines from the new porch and mark where they intersect the existing roof. Do this by using a taut string line or a long, straight board. Remember to raise the tie-in framing on the existing house roof in. above the porch framing to compensate for the difference in thickness of the 3/4-in. plywood and 1-1/2-in. roof boards (Photo 12).

Start the tie-in framing by locating the point where the peak intersects the existing roof (Photo 9). Then cut the 28 roof plates. If youre not good at calculating roof angles, start by estimating the angles and cutting the plates an extra 6 in. long. Then set them in place, remark the angles and recut them until they fit. Screw the roof plates through the roof boards into the rafters below. Next measure for the ridge, estimate the angle and cut it a little long. Trim the angle to fit and screw the ridge rafter to the first truss and roof plates. Complete the tie-in by installing a pair of rafters (Photo 10).

Photo 11 shows installation of the roof boards. Set your table saw or circular saw to 23 degrees and rip a bevel on the groove edge of the first board. Align the board with the ends of the trusses and nail it with 16d galvanized nails. Install the remaining boards, making sure to snug the joints tight before nailing them. Let the boards hang out past the last truss to form the gable end overhang.

When youre done installing the roof boards, snap a chalk line at the gable (outer) end and saw them off to leave an 18-in. overhang. Finish the gable end overhang by installing a pair of rafters and the 13 trim. Hold the gable end rafters tight to the underside of the cutoff roof boards and screw through the roof boards to hold the rafters in place. Then cut 13 trim to cover the end grain of the roof boards. Extend the trim around the corners and return it along the roof edge to the house.

Cover the tie-in framing with 3/4-in. plywood. Add blocking as needed and fill in the triangular areas between the existing roof and the new roof.

Adhere ice-and-water barrier along the eaves and up the valleys. Then nail metal valley flashing overtop. Add No. 15 building paper, then shingles.

Building the tie-in framing on top of the existing shingles is a good way to keep the house waterproof as you construct the porch, but when it comes time to install the roofing youll have to cut the shingles along each of the valleys with a hook-blade utility knife. Then pry loose the cut shingles to make a wide path for the valley flashing (Photos 12 and 13).

We wont go into roofing details here. In general, cover the eaves and valley with strips of waterproof membrane (Photo 13) and install the sheet metal valley. Place roofing nails about 12 in. apart along the edge of the metal valley. Cut a short piece of valley metal to complete the top on each side, overlapping it about 6 in. onto the long piece.

Staple No. 15 building paper to the remainder of the porch roof, starting at the bottom and working up. Overlap each row 3 in. onto the one below. Install shingles to match the house. Follow the manufacturers instructions for starting, overlaps and nail placement. Use 1-in.-long galvanized roofing nails to avoid nailing through the tongue-and-groove ceiling.

Cover the triangular opening in the truss above the house wall by building a 22 frame and nailing 16 tongue-and-groove boards to the back. Then slide the frame into the opening and screw it into place. Fill the triangular space above the outside wall with a 24 frame (Figure C).

Then staple screening to it and cover the screens with stops, just as you do with the walls below. Practice on scraps to make accurate patterns for the steep angles. Then transfer the angles to the actual framing members. You may have to cut these angles with a handsaw; theyre too steep for a miter saw unless you build a special jig.

Nail a 210 trim board over the outside joist, 1-1/2 in. below the top surface of the deck. Cut a 24 sill piece to width and bevel the top on a table saw. Miter the ends and nail the sill to the top of the 210 trim board.

Cut lengths of screening and staple them to the framing. Start by tacking the two corners, making sure the screen is square to the opening. Then stretch the screen slightly and staple the sides, top and bottom. Place 1/4-in. staples every 3 in.

Cut 2x2s to fit and screw them to the framing to cover the staples along all the edges. Frame and screen the outer gable end following Figure C.

The charcoal aluminum screening we used is strong and long lasting, but you have to handle it carefully to avoid creases and dents. Carefully unroll the screen on a large work surface and cut lengths about 3 in. longer than you need. Reroll each piece and carry it to its location. Photo 15 shows how to staple the screening to the framing.

After you stretch and staple each section, cut off the excess screen with a sharp utility knife. Then cover the edges with 22 trim pieces (Photo 16). We screwed these on to allow for easy removal for future screen repairs.

If you use a wood door like ours, start by trimming it just enough to fit in the opening. Then set it in place and mark the door for final fitting. Use a sharp plane or belt sander to trim the door. You may have to repeat this process a few times to get a good fit.

Nail 1/2 x 2-in. wood stops to the framing at the door opening. Then hang the door using galvanized or brass screen door hinges. Mount a latch and door closer to complete the job.

This illustration shows how the corners are assembled and the trim is installed.

Have the necessary tools for this how to build a screened in porch DIY project lined up before you startyoull save time and frustration.

Originally posted here:
How to Build a Screen Porch: Screen Porch Construction ...

Laura Loe Bernstein (@sharethecities) and Henry Kraemer (@HenryKraemer)

Theres a stubborn disagreement right now over the roots of Americas housing crisis, and whether runaway rents can be eased by ending apartment bans. We can all see that rising rents have far outpaced wages, just one of the many ways crony capitalism squeezes the working class, poor folks, communities of color, and the shrinking middle class. Millions of Americans need the housing crisis to end, and for the United States to establish housing as a human right. This crisis was born of a willful, elite effort to exclude the masses from decent neighborhoods by banning the apartments we can afford. The crisis cannot end without undoing that sin.

We need a Housing Guarantee in this country, to ensure that everybody has a home they can afford, and can rest easy knowing they will never be priced out of it. That means:

Robust social housing options accessible to all people.

The ability for people to choose to opt-out of our broken for-profit housing systems and into a federally supported system that favors limited equity co-ops, community land trusts, and a massive investment in public social housing yet unseen in the United States (but common in Europe).

Year-to-year rent stabilization and presumption of indefinite tenure to give renters peace of mind that their landlords wont spike their rents or no-cause evict them.

Cash assistance or solidarity funds to help people who need it to pay their rent.

Ending apartment bans to stop perpetuating the race and class separation that resulted from past land use wrongs.

Successfully enacting these first four priorities is nearly or entirely impossible if we do not end apartment bans. Also known as exclusionary zoning, apartment bans restrict new home-building to the sort of single-family houses most commonly associated with suburbs and affluent neighborhoods. Apartment bans are extraordinarily widespread, and render it illegal to build duplexes, triplexes, fourplexes, and other spaces where multiple families can live nestled together (and often more cheaply) on the same plot of land. These bans have been central to the widespread disparities in access to the best parks, transit, scenic views and amenities, while consigning the lower classes to underfunded schools, environmental racism and generational wealth gaps.

Without a housing guarantee that opens the door to every neighborhood, we cannot build geographically equitable social housing, therefore new development will continue to segregate our communities by class and race.

Legalizing apartments in every community in the United States will not be enough. We need strong rental regulations to protect residents of these new apartments from exploitation and harm from their landlords. We need universally accessible public housing options to give renters the freedom to ditch their landlords if they want. But that starts with making space for apartments, especially in the neighborhoods wealthy property owners have long hoarded for themselves.

Without abolishing apartment bans we are left with very little space in growing cities to place social housing. Lets say we raise taxes on the rich as much as we dream, and set about to build social housing apartments. Right now, apartments market rate or not are illegal in much of the useable land in American cities (only 17% of Seattles buildable land allows apartments, for instance). Where will we put the new social housing if apartment bans remain? (And it will take years to build the social housing we need; in the meantime lets at least build some places for middle class and working class people to live.)

Read the original here:
The Case for Ending Apartment Bans Data For Progress

What is a cross bore?

If natural gas was installed in your neighborhood without digging trenches, a gas pipeline may have been inadvertently inserted through a sewer or septic line, even for homes without natural gas service. This is called a "cross bore".

Cross bores are safe unless they become damaged by cutting tools that clear blocked sewer and septic lines. Rupturing these pipelines would allow natural gas to enter your home and endanger your safety.

For many years, utilities nationwide have installed gas pipelines by boring underground rather than digging trenches, to avoid tearing up paving and landscaping. Existing underground pipes and wires are marked before work begins, whenever possible.

However, sewer and septic lines may go unnoticed because they're not regularly mapped and are undetectable using above-ground locating devices. Cross bores are a rare side effect that occurs when the machine used to install gas pipelines inadvertently bores through sewers, leaving the gas pipelines vulnerable to damage by cutting tools.

Visit link:
Blocked sewer and septic lines - pse.com

Tim Rice, a Texas homebuilder with over three decades of experience, founded Whitestone Custom Homes, Ltd. In San Antonio back in 1998. We have expanded into New Braunfels, Boerne, and Fair Oaks Ranch. An Austin location is in our future. This year we will be celebrating 21 years in business. Tim saw a need in San Antonio for a local builder that provides luxury custom design and quality at a competitive price. We call our style "Practical Luxury". When you walk into one of our model homes, you immediately feel the Whitestone Custom Home difference. Our floorplans stand out from all the rest by providing unique design and custom architecture. We have also registered the trademark " All the space in the right place" meaning we help you design a home that fits you with a space that fits you perfectly. We provide a full design/build process with really flexible design options. It is an easy + fast process. Visit one of our 4 fully decorated model homes to turn your custom home dream into a reality. Our unique process can help you be in your new custom designed home in as short as 7 months from the day you walk into our model. You will be dealing with a proven, solid, stable San Antonio business with an A+ BBB rating. Build with total peace of mind. We hope you visit us today.

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Whitestone Custom Homes | Custom Homes in San Antonio TX