Home Builder Developer - Interior Renovation and Design

What Are Manufactured Homes and Modular Homes?

Manufactured homes once referred to as single-wide and double-wide mobile homes and modular homes are factory-built houses engineered and constructed to the strict specifications of the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Developments federal building code.

With their highly customizable designs and wide array of floor plans ranging from 500 to 2,300 sq. ft., single- or multi-section manufactured homes offer affordable housing options, whatever your needs and tastes.

Affordable

Champion has a long history of providing affordable alternatives to site-built and other types of housing. As one of the largest mobile home builders in the country, were able to negotiate low prices on building materials, including interior features and appliances, resulting in lower costs for our homebuyers.

Represents Quality

After more than six decades serving homebuyers, weve developed advanced engineering and construction methods to ensure energy efficient, quality-built manufactured homes and modular homes. Theyre built in a controlled factory environment, which means every part of the home from the front door to the bathroom sink is protected from weather-related damage, vandalism and other hazards.

Our technicians, craftsmen and assemblers are well trained and professionally supervised, resulting in built-in excellence. Finally, all of our manufactured homes and modular homes undergo more than 35 quality inspections throughout the construction process to ensure they meet our high standards.

Provides Many Other Advantages

Interested in vaulted ceilings? We offer them. Modern kitchens with stainless steel appliances and perhaps spacious bedrooms with walk-in closets? Those, too. Like site-built homes, our manufactured homes and modular homes offer plenty of floor plans and amenities. You can also find stylish features such as tray ceilings, recessed lighting, custom cabinet applications, large family rooms with entertainment centers and more.

If youre ready to move into a new home but arent willing to compromise on the amenities you want, Champion Homes can help.

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Manufactured & Mobile Homes | Champion Homes

Manufactured Homes | Mobile Home | Fleetwood Builds Homes for Life

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Each year members of the Manufactured Housing Institute recognize outstanding industry leaders. Receiving this distinguished honor for a seventh time is a testament to the quality of our people, our homes and our customers. We build great homes and we are Read full story

Fleetwood Homes began in 1950 as a manufacturer of travel trailers. A few years later, we leveraged this expertise to pave the way for a whole new industry residential homes built off-site in a controlled environment. Fleetwoods Read full story

Cavco Industries Named Manufacturer of the Year by the Manufactured Housing Institute for the Sixth Consecutive Year! On April 15, 2015, the National Industry Awards were presented during the Manufactured Housing Institutes (MHI) 2015 National Con Read full story

Since 1950 Fleetwood has been surprising families with how much home they can afford. Over the years, we have satisfied nearly 1.5 million customers by offering the quality, floor plans, and design options that home buyers expect to find in a custom home. Families from all walks of life invest in Fleetwood manufactured homes and park models because of our reputation for building the finest homes, pricing them affordably, and backing them with outstanding service and warranty protection.

Fleetwood homes are built for life. Your life. Our focus is meeting the ever changing lifestyle needs of its customers. Families from all walks of life invest in a Fleetwood home because of our reputation for building the finest homes, pricing them affordably, and backing them with outstanding service and warranty protection. There are many terms for this type of housing but our happy homeowners and their families and friends just like to call them "home."

As a company, we started out building travel trailers. Then, over 50 years ago, we leveraged this expertise to pave the way for a whole new industry - residential manufactured homes and park models built off-site, in a controlled building environment by skilled, experienced craftsmen. Today we are one of the nation's largest national manufactured home builders.

For over 55 years, Fleetwood has been building manufactured homes in weather-protected factories across the country, using experienced construction teams to staff each local building facility. This ensures that the building materials are protected and each home is inspected carefully.

Each Fleetwood plant builds homes for locations in its geographical region. To see a list of Fleetwood factory locations across the country, please click here. Then find the building center closest to your desired new home site and select the link for more information or contact them directly.

Click here to see a list of Fleetwood plants.

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Manufactured Homes - Fleetwood Homes

Retaining walls offer better land use capabilities, improved safety, enhanced usability, and can be tied into a property or homes existing aesthetic. Whether you are building a retaining wall in your homes front yard, in your back garden, or designing one for a business, the right materials are crucial. At Modular Masonry, we are proud to offer a very wide selection of retaining wall blocks to help you get the ideal fit, function, and appearance.

Our selection of retaining wall blocks includes a wide range of options. Our blocks are perfect for walls of any height with appropriate backfilling, but can also be used for garden beds and in numerous other construction projects. Limestone retaining blocks are among the most popular our blocks are made from reconstituted limestone block options also include concrete Besser or breeze blocks, as well.

Below, you will find a full discussion of our selection of retaining wall blocks, with each option sorted by dimensions, material, and block type. Full pricing details can be found to the right, as can information about pickup or delivery, important disclaimers, and downloadable information including coursing charts and block specifications to help with your project.

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Retaining Walls Perth | Retaining Wall Blocks | Modular ...

What Type of Retaining Wall Do I Need?

Video: Designing your retaining wall

The first step is to determine whether you need a gravity wall or reinforced wall.

Gravity Wall

Reinforced Wall

Gravity walls rely on their own weight and setback to hold up the soil behind them. Learn more about gravity wall construction.

**Please note that the gravity wall chart provided has specific heights for specific site and soil conditions. If you are not sure of your site conditions we recommend being conservative with your retaining wall heights or use geogrid in your retaining wall. See our Soil Reinforcement Chart.

Reinforced walls use layers of geogrid to combine the soil and block together to form a reinforced soil mass.

Under certain conditions, the block weight and setback alone do not provide enough structural support. This is where geogrid comes in - Allan Blocks Reinforcement Grid provides a simple solution by creating a solid structure with more resistance to soil pressure and surcharges for retaining walls under 6 ft. (1.8 m) tall. Learn more about reinforced retaining wall construction.

Conditions above and behind the retaining wall will determine how tall the retaining wall can be before reinforcement is needed.

Slope above retaining wall

Slope below retaining wall

A slope above a retaining wall will add more pressure and weight, while slopes below the retaining wall may make the wall unstable due to sliding or erosion. Avoid slopes greater than 3 to 1 without first consulting a local engineer.

How to Mark and Measure Your Slope

Surcharges

Setback

Any added weight above a retaining wall is called a surcharge. Patios, swimming pools and driveways are common residential surcharges. Your wall may need additional support if a surcharge is present.

The amount your wall leans into the hill is called setback. AB blocks come in approximate setbacks of 6 and 12. The 12 (Ref) setback will provide better leverage and require less reinforcement.

Check out the Soil Reinforcement Chart to find out how much geogrid reinforcement your project will need.

Note: For commercial applications contact a local engineer.

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Retaining Wall Design - Allan Block Wall Systems

Vinyl siding is plastic exterior siding for houses and small apartment buildings, used for decoration and weatherproofing, imitating wood clapboard, board and batten or shakes, and used instead of other materials such as aluminum or fiber cement siding. It is an engineered product, manufactured primarily from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) resin. In the UK and New Zealand a similar material is known as uPVC weatherboarding.

Approximately 80 percent of its weight is PVC resin, with the remaining 20 percent being ingredients that impart color, opacity, gloss, impact resistance, flexibility, and durability.[1] It is the most commonly installed exterior cladding for residential construction in the United States and Canada.[2]

Vinyl siding was introduced to the exterior market in the late 1950s as a replacement for aluminum siding. It was first produced by an independently owned manufacturing plant called Crane Plastics in Columbus, Ohio. The process was originally done through mono-extrusion, a process of forming the profile from a single material into the desired shape and size.[3] At that time, blending of colors was done manually.

This original process made it difficult to produce and install a consistent, quality product. Beginning in the 1970s, the industry changed its formulation to improve the product's production speed, impact resistance, and range of colors. In the following decade, vinyl siding grew steadily in popularity in large part due to its durability, versatility, and ease of maintenance.[2]

Today, vinyl siding is manufactured by co-extrusion. Two layers of PVC are laid down in a continuous extrusion process; the top layer is weatherable and durable material, which comprises up to 25% of the siding thickness. This capstock can include about 10% titanium dioxide, depending on the color, which is a pigment and provides resistance to breakdown from UV light. Vinyl siding that is exposed to the sun will begin to fade over time. However, the fade rate is slower with vinyl than most other claddings. Most manufacturers offer 50 year warranties that their products will not fade much over that period of time. In the past darker colors tended to fade more than lighter ones, but advancements in technology and materials can mean this is no longer the case.

The lower layer, known as substrate, is typically about 15% ground limestone (which is largely calcium carbonate). The limestone reduces cost, and also balances the titanium dioxide, keeping both extrusion streams equally fluid during manufacturing. A small quantity of tin mercaptan or butadiene is added as a stabilizer to chemically tie up any hydrochloric acid that is released into the PVC material as the siding ages. Lubricants are also added to aid in the manufacturing process.[4]

Vinyl siding can be observed in a wide range of product quality realized in a substantial difference in thickness and lasting durability. Thickness can vary from .035" in cheaper grade siding products up to .052" in the highest grade products which vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Today, the thinnest vinyl siding commonly used is .040", and is known as "builder's grade". Vinyl product can vary in thickness even within one manufacturer up to .010" of thickness through varying product lines offered that range from basic to premium-grade products. Thicker vinyl products, usually realized in higher cost, are more rigid which can add to the aesthetic appeal and look of the installed, inherently flexible product and also add to durability and life expectancy. Thicker grades of vinyl siding may, according to some, exhibit more resistance to the most common complaint about vinyl siding its tendency to crack in very cold weather when it is struck or bumped by a hard object while others feel that a thinner product may allow more 'flex before cracking' and is a subject of debate. However, at "This Old House" website, this assertion about thickness and crack resistance is disputed. They claim to know of test results that indicate chemical makeup has a greater influence on impact resistance than does thickness.[5]

Chemical formulas can also vary somewhat from manufacturer to manufacturer which can impact life expectancy as formulas and possibly manufacture process can be one of the most important in terms of product quality and durability. One important advent was a UV "coating",[6] utilized by some manufacturers that was applied to the surface of the product that filters out UV spectral light from the sun which would otherwise degrade the PVC more quickly.

Vinyl siding is manufactured with its own partial fastening or locking system that is coupled with nails that 'loose' fasten the product to the exterior wall. This locking system can be either a rolled or an extruded lock depending on the manufacturing process, either of which has its own design considerations. This locking system, either extruded or rolled has a bottom lock which locks into either a start piece or onto the top lock of the panel below. The top lock is then 'loose' nailed to hold the panel to the wall. This 'loose' nailing allows for float which is created by expansion and contraction from varying temperature and weather conditions. With well designed siding, and proper 'loose nailing' installation, the siding can easily expand up, down, in and out, and left and right without restriction. Vinyl siding, by its nature, will tend to expand and contract more with temperature extremes than any other common type of cladding.

Vinyl siding features a chlorine base, making it inherently slow to ignite and flame retardant. All organic materials (that is, anything containing carbon) will ignite, but the higher the temperature a material has to reach before it flames, the safer it is. PVC wont ignite, even from another flame, until it reaches about 730F (387C) and wont self-ignite until about 850F (454C). Those ignition temperatures are significantly higher than common framing lumber, which ignites from a flame at 500F (260C) and self-ignites at 770F (410C). Also, ASTM D2863 tests show that rigid PVCs high Limiting Oxygen Index means that it needs unusually high amounts of oxygen to burn and stay burning. Rigid PVC (vinyl siding) will not independently sustain combustion in air with a normal concentration of oxygen (about 21 percent) so it extinguishes more easily.[7]

Because of its thin profile, vinyl siding may be more likely to ignite due to exterior fire; for example, the National Institute of Standards and Technology found that, in tests involving vinyl-clad structures in close proximity, fire was observed to spread between two vinyl-clad test structures located sixfeet apart in fewer than fiveminutes.[8] Additionally, vinyl siding can release toxic fumes when burning, particularly dioxins, and smoke containing high amounts of Hydrochloric acid. This is not only an environmental concern, but the fumes can be dangerous to firefighters and bystanders, and the toxic fumes released may increase the likelihood of fatality from smoke inhalation for anyone trapped in the burning structure.[9]

The National Association of Home Builders(NAHB) recommends using building materials that require "no additional finish resources to complete application on site" for green home builders as they reduce waste and materials used.[10] Installing vinyl siding involves neither paint, stain, nor caulk and thus meets this NAHB requirement. Though vinyl siding does actually require caulk to seal seams where the siding J (border trim that the sliding slides into) meets windows and doors.

The Environmental Building News validated the issues raised by Greenpeace and said it was not the only organization with environmental and health concerns about vinyl. They emphasized the risks of additives like the plasticizer DEHP.[11]

The position of the International Association of Firefighters, which represents fire fighters in the U.S. and Canada is: "Due to its intrinsic hazards, we support efforts to identify and use alternative building materials that do not pose as much risk as PVC to fire fighters, building occupants or communities."[citation needed]

The PVC used in vinyl siding used to be produced in open vats until1971, when angiosarcoma, a rare cancer of the liver, was traced to vinyl chloride exposure among PVC workers, and strict workplace exposure limits were established by the Occupational Safety and Health Administration. These changes required all vats to be tightly sealed, which led to greater capital costs and a concentration in the number of producers.[4]

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Vinyl siding - Wikipedia

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Tile or stone floors are great to look at, but they can be really cold to the touch - especially in winter months. One way of taking care of that problem, and also heating your home, is to install radiant floor heating.

Radiant floor heating comes from tubes running underneath your floors surface. These are heated either electronically or via heated water. It heats evenly and doesnt blow air which can kick up dust and other allergens. Also, as warm air rises, your lower body receives the comforting heat while your lungs breathe in more comfortable, slightly cooler air up higher. This kind of heating is particularly useful in rooms with vaulted ceilings.

Many homeowners may not know how extensive a project this can be and have a hard time predicting what the cost to install a radiant heating system will be. Your first step should be to talk to a reputable professional who can explain the best course of action for your particular home and who can estimate what your particular project will cost. Be warned, though, that this is a very involved project. You can expect quite a bit of disruption while its being done, but many owners say the comfort is well worth it.

As with any home improvement project, there are no true straightforward costs. There are factors that will influence your cost one way or another. Be sure to keep these factors in mind as you research the general cost of this project.

Square Footage of Flooring

The square footage of your home will help to determine the price. Oddly enough, smaller projects tend to cost more per square foot than larger ones. For example, a 5,000 square foot area could cost $5.00 per square foot while a 400 square foot area might cost $9.00 per square foot installed. This is because a larger area is usually a lot more open and easier to work in. In small areas, such as bathrooms, some people opt for a heating mat in thin-set cement instead. This is used as a supplement to existing heating systems and not as a replacement.

Large or small, the most affordable way to install the system is to do it during new construction or during an extensive remodel, when the floors will be non-existent (yet) or are being torn up anyway. This will reduce the labor costs of drilling holes in your existing flooring and other modifications.

Type of Radiant Heating

Which type of system you use will also affect the cost. There are two types of radiant heating used in residential settings: electric radiant and hydronic (hot water). Electrically heated systems cost more than hydronic systems, about $8.00 per square foot minimum. Hydronic systems cost about $6.00 per square foot minimum.

Existing Flooring

If you currently have a floor in place, the cost of drilling into or removing the existing floor will add to your cost by varying degrees depending on what kind of floor you have (stone, wood, linoleum, tile, etc.) and how large a space it is. Also, if concrete needs to be added, your floor may need additional supports for the added weight. The installation for radiant heating will be the most affordable with new construction or during a remodel when floors are already removed.

Temperature Zones

If you are installing a radiant floor heater as a whole-house system, you may find some rooms require different amounts of heat to be comfortable. This may lead you to establish temperature zones where a living room might be kept at a warmer temperature than a bedroom. Larger rooms may require more heat than smaller rooms. This will add to the complexity of the system, require more equipment, or more elaborate equipment (such as multi-zone programmable thermostats).

Normal Cost Factors

As with any contracted job, factors that will affect your overall cost include:

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Radiant heating has been around a very long time. Its invention is credited to Caius Sergius Orata, a famous Roman merchant and hydraulic engineer. His hanging floors were heated from underneath by fires tended by slaves. However, examples of a similar system predate these by about 2,000 years at the ruins of Mohenjo-Daro. Whichever the case, they greatly improved the comfort level of ancient people as they continue to do today.

Radiant heating works on the basic thermodynamic principle that says hot air rises. The lines underneath your floor generate heat by electrical or hydronic means. This heat rises up evenly from the floor, warming up the lower part of the floor and cooling gradually as it rises. Warm air is generally harder for your body to process than cool air because it has fewer oxygen molecules than cool air. With the floor warm, the bulk of your body (your legs, arms, and torso) stay comfortably warm while your nose and mouth can breathe in more oxygen-rich cool air.

Because the heat is being radiated, not blown, you should know about what types of flooring it works best with.

Worth remembering is that some floors use an adhesive to hold them in place. Make sure your adhesive is compatible with a radiant floor heater.

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For residential settings there are two types of systems that are used, electric and hydronic. (A third type exists, air, but it isnt as efficient and is mostly used in commercial and industrial settings). While the end result is the same, they deliver their heat differently.

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Electric systems are essentially a large heating pad installed beneath thin-set cement. Because they use your electricity to maintain heat, they are costlier to operate than hydronic systems, but they are more affordable to install. Also, they can often be a DIY project depending on the size of the room.

Like the hydronic system, the temperature is maintained by a thermostat. This adjusts itself throughout the day as the programming dictates, ensuring a comfortable temperature in the room or rooms.

Installing an electric system can cost from $700.00 for a bathroom to around $7,000.00 for a 1,500 square foot house. Because it can be installed as mats, the installation cost is significantly less than a hydronic system.

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Hydronic systems use ahot water boiler and then a pump to circulate that hot water through the tubing. If you are heating a small room, such as a bathroom, you might be able to tie into your existing water heater. A larger room might require its own water heater. The water heater will increase the cost of installation, but will still be one of the more affordable radiant heat options. A 50-gallon water heater can cost from $360.00 to well over $1,000.00.

Based on the programming of the thermostat, the water heater will send hot water through pipes that are installed beneath your floor to provide the warmth. The pipes used to be made of normal plumbing materials like copper. However, these pipes eventually corrode and leak. Modern systems use a flexible tubing called cross-linked polyethylene, or PEX for short. Early forms of this material used to leak oxygen and reduce the efficiency of the systems, but current PEX has been refined to remove this flaw.

Some sources state that a boiler is used instead of a water heater. The boiler contains a mixture of water and antifreeze and is most often used in very large settings such as commercial spaces or where it gets very cold. Boilers are far more expensive than water heaters, often costing around $6,000.00.

Installing a hydronic system can cost from $6,000.00 to $14,000.00. Operating costs are lower than electric systems because water conducts and holds heat very well, meaning there is less actual operating time.

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Like anything, radiant floor heating has its good points and its bad points. Here are the basics in a nutshell:

Pros

Cons

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The biggest pro about radiant floor heating is the energy savings. Radiant floor heating has many things going for it when you look at your heating bill:

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If you dont use radiant heat for your whole house, you may be considering specific rooms to use it in. Which ones are best will depend on which rooms are used more often, but here are some general guidelines:

Hallways and utilitarian rooms like laundry rooms do not necessarily need floor heating. Clearly theres no need to heat a closet floor, and putting it in an attic is practically useless. However, if you do a lot of work in the kitchen or have a rec room or playroom, you may find it more comfortable to install radiant heating here as well.

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Just because your home didnt come with radiant floor heating doesnt mean that you missed out. Almost any home can be retrofitted with a radiant floor heating system. However, the cost will vary with what kind of floor you have and how much space youre retrofitting.

Here are some other things to consider about radiant floor heating:

Cooling

While most radiant systems are thought of for heat, you can also use radiant systems for cooling. Putting them in the floor will not be very cost effective because cool air falls. The best place to install a radiant cooling system is in your ceiling. They will need some added equipment, such as a chiller and possibly a dehumidifier.

PEX

PEX, the tubing used in hydronic systems, was developed in the 1930s, but for some time it was flawed. It allowed oxygen molecules to leak in and corrode metallic components. As the processes developed, this flaw was eliminated and for about 35 years now PEX has been the go-to material for tubing in radiant heat systems. Its flexibility allows it to snake around the room and be laid closer together where more heat is needed and further apart where less is needed.

Solar

Solar heating is also being used more and more for radiant floor heating. Solar collectors have a great efficiency for supplying the heat needed. As solar panels become more and more affordable, they are sure to see greater use for many such functions.

Pre-fitted Subflooring

Finally, there is the recent development of subflooring pre-fitted with tubing channels. This reduces labor as the channels are already there for the tubing to go into without having to drill. Available as panels, some are aluminum-lined to allow for even better heat distribution. They tend to cost more, but are more efficient.

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Overall, the cost to install a radiant heating system will depend on if you're putting it into new construction or retrofitting, as well as the type of system you choose. Just make sure to talk to at least three professionals to ensure you find someone you can trust.

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2019 Radiant Heating Installation Costs | Price to Install ...

A lot of people in SLC try these services on their own. We have seen it too many times and unfortunately, it does not usually go as well as planned. That's why we always say: "Let the professionals do it". We are one of the most affordable companies in the Salt Lake valley and we can do it just perfectly. Our services are impeccable and we will do all we can to guarantee your satisfaction.Our quality comes from the way we dobusiness. We have been working in the Salt Lake area for years and our clients know it well. We are methodical and follow all the steps to make sure perfection is achieved. Carpet flooring is not very simple and a poor job may look nice for a year or maybe even two, but then you notice that your carpet is loose and some ends are starting to detach from the floor.

That's when you know the job was not done properly. Few companies out there will provide an excellent service and we are proud to say we are one of them. We have mastered carpeting through training, practice and years of experience. You may trust us with your installation and you will not be disappointed. Besides installing carpets, we also repair and stretch used rugs so you don't have to replace everything. Luckily, we are near you!You will find below some of the steps we take while installing, repairing or stretching your carpets. It is worth checking.

We start by removing (when applicable) your old rug. Sometimes they come off easily and sometimes it takes a couple of men pulling them out. You would be surprised by the dirt, bugs and some other things we find underneath old tapestry.Once the removal is complete, we will dump all that unwanted, unpleasant to look upon and smelly old rug far, way far from your house. Just the feeling of getting rid of that will make you smile. As we confirm there are no remains on the floor we start cleaning. All that debris is swept away and vacuumed. The surface must be smooth and free of dust.Sometimes it is required to remove doors depending on the area being carpeted. This facilitates the process and ensures quality. Don't worry, we will put them back together and you will not even notice they were once removed.

Now that the cleaning is finished and that the doors are not on the way we start measuring. Measuring has to be done precisely. You do not want to cut your new mat a little too short and then have to patch it all over. We also don't cut it too long or too wide because that makes handling difficult during the installation process. Once that's accomplished, we are ready to start working on the Tack Strips or Carpet Grippers. If you are familiar with the terms, that's great! If you are not, these grippers are used to hold the tapestry as the stretching procedures begin. The grippers are placed along the walls and they contain nails that hold the tapestry. This prevents the mats from moving as they are being pulled across the floor.We are finally ready to bring the carpets in but this is just the beginning of our jobs.

We will lay it all out on the floor and manually stretch it as much as we can. We will then start trimming any excesses. We use a special tool for that. If you are planning on doing it by yourself, take a breather, check the phone number by scrolling or sliding up and call us. We don't want you to use scissors to cut the carpet because we don't want it to look bad. Now that you made up your mind and called us, we can proceed! It is likely that we will be using a wall trimmer. These tools work really well but they are even better when used by professionals in our team! Remember, we are here for you! Other tools will also be used during the process of attaching that first edge.The initial part is complete and now we move on to stretching the carpet (yes, once again) across the floor. This time, however, we will be using another tool called Carpet Stretcher. This tool is a mechanical tool that extends from one wall to another. It has many nails on its head that grab the carpet firmly. There is also a lever attached to its head and when the lever is pushed down, the mat is stretched tightly.Most installations also require seaming the edges of carpets when they meet each other. This is a very delicate part of the process. If not done correctly, the joining of the rugs may become noticeable to the eye. Some common issues with seaming may include not proper cutting and weak gluing. In some installs, we use a seam binder to cover the transition from one carpet to another. Bar binders are most commonly used when the mat joins a different type of floor. These binders are usually made out of a metal such as Aluminum but sometimes they can be made of wood. Some specific tools are required for the task such as a cutter, a seaming iron, seaming tape, hammer, and many others. Attention! If you ever use a seaming iron, make sure you are cautious. Its temperatures may reach well above 400 degrees. Let's avoid getting hurt or hurting someone by always putting safety first and following best practices.

Now that we know those edges were seamed together and that no one can tell where the rugs join, we can start the final steps of the install. The final steps also require some of the tools that we already used. Trimmers, carpet knives, power stretchers and so on.Looking at the floor is now delightful! We did a great job but there could be some imperfections still. That's why after we are completed, we perform an extra step which is a full verification of the job. We walk around every corner and check if the trimming was proper. We also make sure the edges are all looking good, especially around the vents on the floor. The job is considered completed when it passes all the verification procedures. Salt Lake City Carpet Install will deliver what was promised! You may now enter your house!

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CARPET INSTALL SALT LAKE CITY - Carpet Installation ...

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Bathroom & Bathtub Remodeling - Bath Fitter

Wilson's screenplay, based on his own award-winning play, is a potent brew that warms your stomach upon the first swig and then simmers to a boil. It's intense, exhausting, and worth it. Washington directs as well as stars, and he takes great care to stay faithful to the source material, keeping things clear and pared down, so that the language and story's inherent drama can do the talking.

Though the action doesn't literally stay in one spot, the film's stage roots are evident in the way that almost everything takes place in one house. But this serves the story, echoing the constriction that Troy, Rose, and their sons feel. All the actors are superb, particularly Davis, who plays Rose with empathy, understanding, and texture. When she finally utters a fateful sentence toward the end of the film, you feel it slice through your heart. Fences willtake some discipline and effort to stick with it in its cinematic form, stripped of the electricity of live theater, but it's still masterful.

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Fences - Movie Review - Common Sense Media

The Second Epistle of Peter, often referred to as Second Peter and written 2 Peter or in Roman numerals II Peter (especially in older references), is a book of the New Testament of the Bible, traditionally held to have been written by Saint Peter. Most critical biblical scholars have concluded Peter is not the author, considering the epistle pseudepigraphical.[1][2]

According to the Epistle itself, it was composed by the Apostle Peter, an eyewitness to Jesus' ministry. It criticizes "false teachers" who distort the authentic, apostolic tradition, and predicts judgment for them. 2 Peter explains that God has delayed the Second Coming of Christ so that more people will have the chance to reject evil and find salvation. It calls on Christians to wait patiently for the parousia and to study scripture.

The date of composition has proven to be very difficult to determine. Commentaries and reference books have placed 2 Peter in almost every decade from AD 60 to 160. Taken literally, it would have been written between 6568 AD because Peter was martyred around 68 AD by Nero and also because Peter references his approaching death in 2 Peter 1:14 ("since I know that the putting off of my body will be soon, as our Lord Jesus Christ made clear to me").[3]

Most biblical scholars have concluded Peter is not the author, considering the epistle pseudepigraphical.[4][5] Reasons for this include its linguistic differences from 1 Peter, its apparent use of Jude, possible allusions to 2nd-century gnosticism, encouragement in the wake of a delayed parousia, and weak external support.[6]

The questions of authorship and date are closely related. For Petrine authorship to be authentic, it must have been written prior to Peter's death in c. AD 6567. The letter refers to the Pauline epistles and so must post-date at least some of them, regardless of authorship, thus a date before 60 is improbable. Further, it goes as far to name the Pauline epistles as "scripture"the only time a New Testament work refers to another New Testament work in this wayimplying that it postdates them by some time.[7] Scholars consider the epistle to be written between c. AD 100150[8] and so contend that it is pseudepigraphical.

Acceptance of the letter into the canon did not occur without some difficulty; however, "nowhere did doubts about the letter's authorship take the form of definitive rejection."[9] The earliest record of doubts concerning the authorship of the letter were recorded by Origen (c. 185254), though Origen mentioned no explanation for the doubts, nor did he give any indication concerning the extent or location. Donald Guthrie suggests that "It is fair to assume, therefore, that he saw no reason to treat these doubts as serious, and this would mean to imply that in his time the epistle was widely regarded as canonical."[9]

Origen, in another passage, has been interpreted as considering the letter to be Petrine in authorship.[10] Before Origen's time, the evidence is inconclusive;[11] there is a lack of definite early quotations from the letter in the writings of the Apostolic Fathers, though possible use or influence has been located in the works of Clement of Alexandria (d. c. 211), Theophilius (d. c. 183), Aristides (d. c. 134), Polycarp (d. 155), and Justin (d. 165).[12]

Eusebius (c. 275339) professed his own doubts (see also Antilegomena), and is the earliest direct testimony of such, though he stated that the majority supported the text, and by the time of Jerome (c. 346420) it had been mostly accepted as canonical.[13]

The Peshitta, the standard version of the Bible for churches in the Syriac tradition, does not contain the Second Epistle of Peter and thus rejects its canonical status.[14]

In both content and style this letter is very different from 1 Peter.[15]

This epistle presciently declares that it is written shortly before the apostle's death (1:14). Arguments have been made both for and against this being part of the original text, but this debate largely is centered on the acceptance or rejection of supernatural intervention in the life of the writer.[16]

The epistle contains eleven references to the Old Testament. In 3:15, 16 a reference is made to one of Paul's epistles, which some have identified as 1 Thessalonians 4:135:11.

The book also shares a number of passages with the Epistle of Jude, 1:5 with Jude 3; 1:12 with Jude 5; 2:1 with Jude 4; 2:4 with Jude 6; 2:5 with Jude 5; 2:6 with Jude 7; 2:1011 with Jude 89; 2:12 with Jude 10; 2:1317 with Jude 1113; 2:18 with Jude 16; 3:2f with Jude 17f; 3:3 with Jude 18; 3:14 with Jude 24; and 3:18 with Jude 25.[17] Because the Epistle of Jude is much shorter than 2 Peter, and due to various stylistic details, the scholarly consensus is that Jude was the source for the similar passages of 2 Peter.[17][18]

Tartarus is mentioned in 2 Peter 2:4 as devoted to the holding of certain fallen angels. It is elaborated on in Jude 6. Jude 6 however, is a clear reference to the Book of Enoch. Bauckham suggests that 2 Peter 2:4 is partially dependent on Jude 6 but is independently drawing on paraenetic tradition that also lies behind Jude 57. The paraenetic traditions are in Sirach 16:710, Damascus Document 2:173:12, 3 Maccabees 2:47, Testament of Naphtali 3:45 and Mishna Sanhedrin 10:3.[19]

If 2 Peter 3:1 alludes to 1 Peter, the audience in this book are the various Churches in Asia Minor in general (cf. 1 Peter 1:1).

The letter is usually outlined as follows:[15]

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Second Epistle of Peter - Wikipedia