Home Builder Developer - Interior Renovation and Design

Its easy to think that the only reason you need your carpet clean is so it looks nice, right? That is certainly one reason to schedule regular carpet cleaning; however, its important to remember that carpet cleaning is also an investment in your health.

Carpets, whether in your home or in your office, can quickly collect dirt, bacteria, dust mites and allergens. Though not always visible on the surface, these contaminants can actually pollute the indoor air quality (IAQ) that you breathe every day. Carpets that often appear clean may, in fact, be much dirtier than you think!

Think of your carpet as a type of air filter in your home. When things like dust, dirt, bacteria and dust mites collect on your carpet, in time you will start to breathe in that buildup. Merely using household carpet cleaners to remove dirt and spills is not enough to ensure the air youre breathing is as clean as possible.

By investing in services like COIT carpet cleaning, you can rest assured that our commercial grade, advanced equipment will give your carpets the deepest and most thorough cleaning possible.

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Residential Carpet Cleaning Services | COIT

Carpet Cleaning Method

Our carpet cleaning method is hot water extraction, also referred to as steam cleaning. It is recommended by most carpet manufacturers. Most new carpet today requires the hot water extraction to maintain the Wear Warranty.

We use the more powerful truck mounted cleaning system, which provides excellent deep rinsing capability, optimum results and minimal drying time.

Dalworth offers three different service packages to choose from. Or you may create your own custom level of service by choosing the features best for your carpet. Its easy to create the service level that best fits your needs and your budget. We also specialize in commercial carpet cleaning services.

Our guarantee is our commitment to you. If we cant make you happy well refund your money.

Studies show that indoor air quality is often much worse than outdoor air. Poor air quality can be a problem for babies, the elderly and those with allergies or respiratory issues. Carpet traps airborne particles, removing them from the air you breathe. A carpeted room that is vacuumed and cleaned regularly will have a higher level of indoor air quality than a room with a hard surface floor. Professional steam cleaning of your carpet helps to ensure a healthier environment for your home and your family.

Ordering from our website is quick and easy. Its available 24/7 and gives you access to our lowest pricing.

Green Discounts available when were in your area

Dalworth can clean, restore, seal and protect every type of flooring in your home including; carpet, tile and grout, hardwood, travertine, marble, slate, saltillo tile, hand-made area rugs, air duct cleaning, deodorizing and anti-allergen treatments. If you live in Dallas, Fort Worth, Arlington, Plano, Frisco, McKinney, Keller, Richardson, Garland, Irving, Grand Prairie, Highland Park, Southlake, Westlake, Trophy Club, Addison, Euless, Carrollton, Lewisville, Grapevine or any city in North Texas, call Dalworth Clean at817-553-2184to schedule your residential and commercial cleaning and restoration services.

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Dalworth Carpet Cleaning Services in the Dallas/Fort Worth TX ...

Save big bucks by blowing out the sprinkler system yourself

Close off both valves on the backflow preventer. Then remove the plug on the blow-out port and screw in a quick-connect hose adapter. Snap on the air hose and connect the other end to the compressor.

With a basic quick-connect coupling, you can use your air compressor to clear water from your sprinkler system for the winter. Just be aware that even the largest home compressor isnt powerful enough to blow out the entire system at once. But you can probably blow it out zone by zone.

If youre into number crunching and you have the original irrigation layout showing the gallons per minute (gpm) of each sprinkler head, just divide the total gpm of each zone by 7.5. Thatll give you the cubic feet per minute (cfm) you need to blow it out. Otherwise, just rent a 10-cfm compressor and hose from your local tool rental center.

Set the compressor air pressure regulator to a maximum of 80 psi for rigid PVC pipe systems, or 50 psi for flexible black polyethylene pipe. Then turn off the water supply and set the system timer to open just one zone. Next, open the manual drain valve at the end of that zone (if equipped). Then, connect the air line to the blow-out port as shown. Connect the other end of the air hose to the compressor and blow out the line. The heads should pop up and spit out water. Disconnect the hose as soon as they run dry. Dont overdo the blowoutwithout water cooling the plastic gears, they can melt in less than a minute. So move on to the next zone and allow the heads to cool. Then go back and blow out each zone a second time.

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you startyoull save time and frustration.

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Heres a list.

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How to Winterize a Sprinkler System The Family Handyman

Overview: Simple system, easy fixes

An automatic lawn irrigation system is the best way to keep your lawn looking fresh and green. Correctly designed and programmed, itll deliver the right amount of water to your yard no more moving the sprinkler! But like any other sprinklers system, it occasionally breaks down or requires maintenance.

The good news is you can handle 90 percent of the sprinkler repairs yourself, even without in-depth knowledge of the system. Well show you how to identify and fix the most common problems. Calling in a professional could cost at least $100, even for a simple problem you can fix yourself in 10 minutes.

Dont be intimidated by the prospect of working on a sprinklers system that involves both plumbing and electricity. The pipes are plastic and much simpler to repair than the plumbing in your house. The electrical lines are low voltage, so theyre not hazardous. You dont need special skills to make the repairs, but youll need a multimeter to diagnose electrical problems for sprinkler repairs.

The controller sends a signal to the control valves in the control valve box. The valves open, sending water through the underground water line, which causes the sprinkler heads to pop up and spray.

Dig around the sprinkler head to expose the riser. Unscrew the broken sprinkler head from the riser. Install the new head, turning it tight with your hands.

Broken sprinkler heads are easy to identify. Simply look for cracked or broken plastic casing on the heads, heads that dont pop up, or water that sprays wildly or not at all. Its common to find the top of the head completely broken off. This typically happens to heads that are set too high and are run over by vehicles or hit by lawn mowers.

Replacing the head is one of the simplest fixes. Replacement heads are available at home centers and online. Be sure to buy the same type of head that youre replacing.

To change a broken head, turn off the system and dig a 2-ft.-diameter hole around the head. Using a square shovel, slice the sod into easy-to-remove pieces. Set the sod on a tarp so you can set it back into place at the end of the job.

Dig down to the riser (the vertical pipe that branches off the main line) which is connected to the sprinkler head. Dig with a light touch to avoid damaging the plastic water line, which is 8 to 12 in. underground.

Turn the head counterclockwise to remove it from the riser. While the head is off, take care not to spill dirt into the riser. Sprinkler heads are installed only hand-tight, but after being in the ground for several years, they may require the use of wrenches to unscrew. If the head doesnt turn easily, hold the riser with slip joint pliers to keep it from twisting loose from the fittings below.

Attach the new sprinkler head by placing it on the riser and turning it hand-tight (photo). Dont use Teflon tape or joint compound on the riser threads. Sprinkler heads are factory tested to make sure they work. As a result, theyre often packaged still wet, so dont be surprised to see water in a new head.

Before filling in the hole and replacing the sod, set the desired sprinkler pattern (see Reset the Spray Pattern, below).

Caution: Before you start digging to access the underground water lines, electrical wires or spray heads, dial 811 to have your underground utility lines identified and marked.

Disassemble the sprinkler head by unscrewing the top from the canister. Rinse away soil and debris in a bucket of water.

Remove the screen basket from the bottom of the head, then clean it with water.

Adjust the watering range of the sprinkler head before installing it. Place the head in the canister so the nozzle is at the edge of the area to be watered. Make final adjustments with the water running.

Dirt sometimes gets inside sprinkler heads, causing them to clog up. Clogged heads may rise but fail to spray, not lower after watering, or produce an erratic spray pattern.

To clean the head, dig it out and remove it from the Riser (Photo above). Take the head apart by holding the bottom of the canister and turning the top of the head counterclockwise. Once its unscrewed, lift it out of the canister (Photo 1).

Remove the plastic screen basket, which serves as a filter, at the base of the head. If you cant pop the basket out with your fingers, pry it out with a flat-head screwdriver or pull it free with a pliers. Rinse the basket in a bucket of clean water, washing out the debris (Photo 2). Clean the rest of the sprinkler head by rinsing it with water. Replace the head on the riser. If it still doesnt work, replace it with a new head. Note: In areas of the country that experience freezing temperatures, polyethylene (poly) pipe is used for the irrigation water lines. PVC pipe is used in areas that dont freeze.

Reset the spray pattern

When putting on a new sprinkler head or using the same head after cleaning, you may need to adjust it to water a specific area. Adjustment methods vary. You can adjust some head types by turning a slot at the top with a screwdriver. Others require a special key that you insert into the head and turn (Photo 3). Some heads also allow you to adjust the spray pattern by turning a tiny screw located next to the nozzle.

Adjust the heads before installing them, then fine-tune them once theyre in place with the sprinkler running. First, turn the top clockwise until it stops. That nozzle location is the starting point (the head will turn counterclockwise from there). Adjust the head to set the watering rotation anywhere from 40 degrees to 360 degrees counterclockwise from the starting point. Set the head in the canister. Standing behind the head, align the nozzle with the right edge of the area you want to water, such as along a driveway. Tighten the head in the canister. Carefully backfill the hole and replace the sod.

Turn on the sprinklers system at the controller. Allow the head to make a few rotations, then make additional adjustments while the system is running for sprinklers repair.

Check the valves on the backflow device to make sure theyre open. Turn the valve on the horizontal pipe first, then the vertical pipe valve.

Low water pressure will result in the sprinkler heads barely shooting water. In extreme cases, many of the heads wont even pop up. Start with the easiest solution. Make sure the valves at the backflow device are fully open. The backflow device is located above ground, with the valve at least 12 in. above the highest sprinkler head in the yard. Most backflow devices have a valve on the horizontal and vertical pipes. Turn the valves to their open positions as shown. The valve is open when the handle is parallel with the pipe.

Cut out the damaged section of line and replace it with a slip coupling. Secure the coupling with band clamps.

A slip coupling easily expands and contracts to replace a damaged section of line.

Then check for leaks in the water line. Look for a series of sprinkler heads that arent watering properly. The water line problem is always located between the last working head and the first nonworking head.

Look for signs of leaking water, such as water bubbling up from the soil when the sprinklers system are running, a depression in the ground, or a very wet area. If you find running water, follow the water to the highest point to find the source.

Once you locate the approximate leak site, dig straight down to the water line. Then enlarge the hole along the line, following the flow of the leaking water until you find the break or crack. Before making the repair, make sure the system is turned off at the controller.

Use a slip coupling to repair the leak. This special coupling contracts to make insertion easy. Find these couplings and other repair parts at irrigation supply stores.

To fix the leak, use a hacksaw to cut out a 4-in. section of line at the leak. Place a clamp on one of the line ends, insert the coupling, then tighten the clamp.

Place a clamp on the second pipe end, expand the coupling while inserting the nipple into the pipe, then tighten the clamp. Backfill the hole with dirt and replace the sod.

Tree roots can grow around a pipe and squeeze it closed after several years.

Cut out the damaged section of line. Replace it with a new section of line, making connections with standard couplings and band clamps.

If you cant locate a leak, the water line may be crushed or obstructed. Sometimes, roots wrap around the line and squeeze it closed over the course of several years (photo 1). Or vehicles may have compressed the soil and collapsed the line. These problems are harder to find and often require a lot of digging. Again, look for the problem after the last working head. Dig along the water line until you find the damaged section. If the line runs near a tree, start your digging there.

Once you locate the damaged section, cut it out with a hacksaw. If the line was damaged by tree roots, reroute the line by digging a new trench away from the tree.

Cut a new section of pipe to replace the damaged one. Then replace the section of pipe, connecting it at each end with regular couplings and band clamps (photo 2).

Check the voltage to the nonworking zone using a multimeter. Touch the leads to the common terminal and zone terminal. If the voltage is too low, replace the controller.

Your watering system is divided into a series of zones. Each zone has an electrically activated valve that controls the heads for a designated area.

Generally, if you have a zone thats not turning on, you have an electrical problem. To solve the problem, make sure the zone wires are firmly attached to the terminals in the controller, the transformer is plugged in, and the circuit breaker at the main panel is on.

Next, test for voltage to the nonworking zone, using a multimeter (at home centers and hardware stores). Turn on the nonworking zone at the controller. Turn the multimeter dial to voltage and place one lead on the common terminal (marked c or com). Place the other lead on the terminal of the zone thats not working (photo left). It doesnt matter which lead goes to which terminal.

Refer to your owners manual to see whether the voltage reading falls within the required range (usually 24 to 28 volts). If it doesnt, the controller needs to be replaced. (If you dont get any voltage reading, see Check Fuse and Transformer, below.)

Fortunately, controllers rarely go bad unless struck by lightning. New ones start at $175 and can cost upward of $400. Replace a damaged controller with the same brand and model as you currently have. To replace it, label each wire thats connected to the controller with a piece of tape. Unhook the wires, then attach them to the new controller in the same sequence.

Test the transformer voltage by placing the multimeter leads on the transformer terminals marked 24 vac with the transformer plugged in. If the reading is less than 22, replace the transformer.

If no zones will turn on, first turn the controller to the manual setting to see if the system will run. And if it turns on manually, the controller is good but the rain sensor may be stopping the automatic programmed watering, which is what its designed to do.

Rain sensors conserve water by preventing the system from running when the ground is already saturated and doesnt need additional watering. Some states require rain sensors on all new systems. (Your rain sensor is bad if the system runs when the ground is already wet.)

If the system doesnt run in the manual position, check the controller for power. If it has a fuse, make sure its not blown. Or, if it has a circuit breaker reset button, press the button, then try the system again. If the system is plugged into a GFCI receptacle, press the GFCI reset button.

If it still doesnt turn on, make sure the outlet that the power transformer is plugged into is working by plugging in a power tool. And if its working, plug the transformer back in, turn the system off and test the transformer for voltage. Using a multimeter, place a lead on each of the two transformer terminals. It doesnt matter which lead goes to which terminal.

The transformer terminals are marked 24 vac. A 24-voltage transformer should normally test between 24 and 28 volts. If the voltage falls below the manufacturers range, replace the transformer. Simply unscrew the terminals that hold the two transformer wires in the controller and remove the transformer (photo). Insert the wires on the new transformer through the designated opening in the controller. Attach the wires to the controller terminals marked 24 vac by placing the wire ends under the screws, then tightening them.

Disconnect the wires and unscrew the defective solenoid from the control valve. Insert a new one and turn it until its finger-tight.

Connect the two wires on the new solenoid to the common wire and a field wire, using waterproof connectors.

Special connectors are filled with silicone to make the connections waterproof.

If the controller, fuse and transformer check out OK, test the resistance ohms between the common terminal and the nonworking zone. Turn off the system, turn the multimeter to test for ohms (the omega symbol), and place the leads on the common terminal and zone terminal, just as you did to test for voltage.

Compare the ohms reading with the range listed in your owners manual (usually 20 to 60 ohms). If the ohms fall below the required amount, the switch (solenoid) that operates the control valve for that zone is defective and needs to be replaced. The defective solenoid will be connected to the same color wire as the zone wire at the controller. (If the reading is too high, see Repair Damaged Wires below.)

Control valves are typically grouped with three to six valves in one box (Photo 1). The boxes are located in the ground with a cover that simply lifts off. They can be located anywhere in the yard but are usually close to the main water supply.

Although valves themselves rarely need to be replaced, solenoids do occasionally fail. Replacing them is quick and easy. Be sure the controller is in the off position (you dont need to shut off the power) and the water valves on the backflow device are turned off. Inside the control valve box, remove the wire connectors and disconnect the two wires on the defective solenoid from the common and field wires. Turn the solenoid counterclockwise to unscrew it from the valve (Photo 1). Water will slowly seep out of the valve opening, even with the water turned off.

Place a new solenoid in the valve and turn it until its finger-tight. Twist the ends of the new solenoid wires onto the same common and field wires that the old solenoid was attached to (Photo 2). It doesnt matter which solenoid wire goes to the common and which one goes to the field wire. Twist a new waterproof wire connector over each connection (Photo 2). To make waterproof connections, use a silicone-filled direct bury connector (Photo 2A), available at home centers.

Repair damaged wires If the ohms reading between the common terminal and nonworking zone terminal is too high (its sometimes an infinity reading), the problem is a severed or bad wire to the control valve. If only one zone isnt working, the field wire is damaged. If none of the zones in a control valve box is working, the common wire is damaged, although the field wires could also be bad.

To find a bad wire, bypass each in turn by temporarily substituting a 14-gauge wire for the original that you run above ground. Make the wire connections with the controller turned off. Then turn the controller back on. Test the field wire first. If the zone turns on, the old field wire is bad. Replace it with an 18-gauge wire rated for underground burial. Bury the wire at least 8 in. underground. Follow the same procedure to test the common wire.

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you startyoull save time and frustration.

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Heres a list.

Visit link:
Fixing Sprinkler Systems The Family Handyman

In this video, This Old House landscape contractor Roger Cook explains how to repair a leaky sprinkler system.

Steps:

1 Shut off the water to the sprinkler system.2 Remove lid from valve box and clean out mud from inside of box with hand trowel.3 Pack valve box with dry rags to absorb water.4 Twist out the low-voltage solenoid valve, then wait for excess water to drain out.5 Unscrew the bonnet from the top of the valve using a Phillips screwdriver.6 Remove the spring and diaphragm gasket from under the bonnet.7 Install a new valve diaphragm onto the valve.8 Set spring on diaphragm, place bonnet on top.9 Put steel ring on top of bonnet, then screw down the bonnet, alternately tightening the screws.10 Replace the solenoid, and make the wire connections with waterproof wire connectors.11 Pull rags from valve box and fill box with clean stone.12 Turn on the water to the sprinkler system and check for leaks.

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How to Repair a Leaking Sprinkler System | This Old House

Because the fan-and-coil unit is mounted in the attic in most retrofit air-conditioning systems, the challenge is to get supply and return ducts to ceiling registers in the first- and second-floor rooms below. Ducts that feed second-floor rooms are typically run across the attic floor and plunge down between the attic floor joists, where they are connected to ceiling registers. Ducts that feed first-floor rooms run down through second-floor closets wherever possible. The first step your contractor will take to determine the position of ducts is to draw a floor plan of the second floor and lay it over a floor plan of the first floor. "In 99 percent of homes," says Frank Scaran-gello, of Staten Island, New York-based Scaran Heating and Air Conditioning, "second-floor closets will give you access to locations for first-floor ceiling registers."

Ducts running in closets take up less space than you might think. Because most ducts are 12 X 6 inches or 10 X 8 inches, even in a relatively small 2 X 4-foot closet, they take up just 4 of the 64 available cubic feet. Some cooling contractors might suggest using "flex duct" (a small, inexpensive flexible hose) instead of rigid square ducts. But avoid flex duct in active closet spaces it doesn't stand up well to wear and tear and is easily punctured.

What kind of mess can you expect if you have to have ducts installed? In most cases, wall and ceiling surfaces are left largely untouched. Holes do have to be cut in first- and second-floor ceilings for registers, and some second-floor closet floors will undergo surgery to accommodate the new ducts. But these holes are relatively small, and the mess is easily contained.

Even if there's no ductwork in your home, if air-conditioning will make your house more pleasant in the summer months, contact HVAC contractors to review the cost of adding A/C and the methods they would use. Choosing the right pro and equipment will ensure you years of comfort, and it's often less expensive and less intrusive than you might imagine.

(Updated with new information, August 2007)

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Adding Central Air | Installing Air Conditioning in an Old ...

Window Replacement Reviews and Ratings

Not surprisingly, wood clad and fiberglass window frames rated the highest. (These replacement windows also carry the highest price tags.) These window frame materials are better at keeping out the rain, wind and elements. Each window was put through a week of extreme temperatures to see how the window expanded, contracted and flexed with temperature and condition changes. Each window was then test for water and air leakage. Windows that exhibited little or no change in performance from the start to finish were ranked highest.

Vinyl is less expensive and convenient

Vinyl replacement windows account for nearly 50% of the market because they are reasonably priced and maintenance-free. However, vinyl windows will let some air seep through, especially in colder climates. In addition, vinyl is less attractive than wood clad and is not able to be stained or painted to match or compliment a home's exterior color.

Snapshot of Consumer Report on Replacement Window Reviews

The following replacement windows all scored at the top consumer reports replacement window reviews.

Wood Replacement Window Reviews

Clad Ultimate by Marvin Windows and DoorsWood Ultrex Integrity by Marvin Windows and Doors400 Series Tilt Wash by Andersen Windows

ProLine by Pella Corporations

500 Series by Peachtree Windows and Doors

Select Clad by Crestline Windows & Patio Doors

Weather Shield Custom Shield by Weather Shield Windows & Doors

Vinyl Replacement Window Reviews

The best vinyl replacement window reviews from consumer reports goes to:

5600 Series by Reliabilt/Survivor Windows

UltraMaxx Replacement by Alside

9500 Series by American Craftsman

Bryan Mawr II by CertainTeed Corp.

CrestFit Vinyl by Crestline

ThermaStar 25 Series by Pella Corp.

Fiberglass Replacement Window Reviews

The best vinyl replacement window reviews from consumer reports goes to Impervia by Pella.

Additional Window Resources | Window Cost Comparison | Replacement Window Ratings

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Best Replacement Window Reviews | Vinyl, Fiberglass, Wood ...

Stationed in Marietta, Window World of Atlanta, Georgia serves all of the areas surrounding Atlanta. Because of our superior quality replacement windows, doors, vinyl siding, gutters, and other home improvement products, our vinyl replacement windows earned the coveted Good Housekeeping Seal. At Window World of Atlanta, we strive to serve Atlanta area residents and homeowners with the finest quality range of replacement windows, doors, and more. Counties throughout Georgia we serve include Fulton, Henry, Fayette, Coweta, Clayton, Rockdale, DeKalb, Cherokee, Barrow, Cobb, Forsyth, Gwinnett, Hall, & Jackson Counties.

New vinyl windows from Window World of Atlanta will make a major improvement to the appearance of your Atlanta area home, as well as increase property value, and save you money on annual heating and cooling costs. The sleek, clean design of our new replacement windows will draw attention from neighbors as your Atlanta home gleams like new again. Window World of Atlantas new vinyl replacement windows also meet Georgia Low-E energy-efficiency requirements, which will save you money on heating/cooling bills.

Contact Window World of Atlanta today to schedule a free in-home consultation and estimate for new replacement windows for your Atlanta-area home!

We also offer many other industry-leading home-improvement products, such as:

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Replacement Windows Atlanta | Window World of Atlanta

Mexboro Concrete manufactures a comprehensive range of L Steps and Winding L Steps. For full details please see below or download our brochure: Steps Brochure

A highly cost effective method of stairway construction being both quick to install and easy to handle.

Due to its component form there is no need for costly craneage or on site shuttering.

Greater Flexibility due to the steps adaptable rise and going suiting both general or disabled requirements in virtually all types of closed stairway applications.

Strong and Durable with L-Steps supplied in standard lengths from 1.000 metres up to 2.000 metres for a corresponding clear span of 0.800 metres to 1.800 metres between bearing support walls.

Top tread and riser units are supplied in standard lengths from 1.000 metres to 1.200 metres . Where the overall span for the top tread or riser is required to exceed 1.200 metres then these units can be supplied as two sections. Where a tread is unsupported by an L-Step then the tread unit is to be fully bedded onto a beam and block floor or insitu landing.

Note: It is recommended that step units are installed to a small fall to prevent excess water from accumulating on the tread part when used externally in association with an anti-slip finish.

Design performance generally in accordance with BS.8110 1985 and for a distributed load of 4kn/m2 or a point load of 4.5kn as loadings specified in BS.6399 Pt.1. The step system is designed for moderate exposure conditions as defined by BS.8110. Step units to comply with more severe conditons can be manufactured as a special.

Addtional slip resistance can be achieved for external use by providing an acid etch or exposed aggregate finish to the units.

Furthermore, slip resistant inserts containing high friction additives can be cast into the stpe making it ideal for areas where wet or greasy conditions are likely to be a problem. Slip resistant inserts are available in different colours with details available on request.

Standard steps can be used in conjunction with a typical anti slip adhesive tape or proprietary anti slip coating available from most builders merchants.

Save on valuable floor space by using the Mexboro Winding L-Step system.

Used in conjunction with the general or disabled L-Step system, winding L-Steps provide an ideal way of constructing a 90 degree return within the stair where a half landing is not required.

The winding steps are supplied in a standard length to suit a maximum opening of 1.200 metres and the projecting overhang is cuttoff on site to suit.

To order, simply tell us whether the return is left or right handed and whether they are being used in conjunction with general or diabled L-Step system.

Simply by varying the amount of bedding from a minimum of 4mm to a maximum of 25mm in certain applications. The joint between the step is to be fully bedded in mortar and a 100mm solid bearing is to be provided as support to each end.

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Simply by projecting one unit over another to a maximum of 30mm.

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The following Mexboro Standard L-Step Units show the various rise and going options available for each step type

General L Step (Ref: LS/A)

Disabled General L Step (Ref: LS/B)

Bull Nose L-Steps

General Architectural Bull Nose L Step (Ref: BNLS/A)

Disabled Bull Nose L Step (Ref: BNLS/B)

Public Architectural Bull Nose L Step (Ref: BNLS/C)

Public Disabled Architectural Bull Nose L Step (Ref:BNLS/D)

A wide range of finishes are available from standard grey ex-stock, cast stone Portland or Bathstone acid etch, exposed aggregate or a beautiful polished face. Slip resistant inserts are also available.

A wide variety ofproprietory products are available which can be either be incorporated at the time of manufacture or applied on site. For further details please go to http://www.watco.co.uk

The required and approved dimensions for stairs as set out in Document K are as follows, but please always check that you have the most up to date guidance and use the link below for more detailed information on the latest UK Building regulations. We strongly recommend that the client checks the usage of any of the above steps with building control for their particular application, prior to ordering.

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Mexboro Concrete Concrete Steps

Project: Clean Windows

Date: 11/03/2018

How Cleaned: Both inside and outside

Screens to be Cleaned: Yes

Number of Stories: Two stories

Schedule Routine Cleaning: No, just this time

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Desired Project Start Date: Within a few weeks

Comment: Clean picture window ,kitchen windows and screens and all brdrooms

Project: One Time Interior House Cleaning

Date: 11/02/2018

Cleaning Type Needed: One time cleaning

Is this an emergency?: No

What is the square footage of the house that needs cleaning?: Small (less than 1500 sq ft)

Request Stage: Ready to Hire

Desired Completion Date: Timing is flexible

Project: Clean Range and Hood - For Business

Date: 11/01/2018

Cleaning needs: Hoods, Grease traps and drains, Kitchen equipment

Cleaning Type Needed: Recurring Service

What kind of location is this?: Business

Desired Project Start Date: Within a few weeks

Comment: WE NEED ROUTINE CLEANING FOR OUR COMMERCIAL EXHAUST SYSTEM AND EQUIPMENT IN KITCHEN OF RESTAURANT

Project: Clean Gutters and Downspouts

Date: 10/2018

Why Gutters Need Cleaning: Water overflows from gutter and drips from joints, Gutters are clogged with leaves and needles, As regular maintenance to keep them working properly

Number of stories in house: Two stories

Request Stage: Ready to Hire

Desired Completion Date: Timing is flexible

Project: One Time Interior House Cleaning

Date: 10/2018

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Cleaning Type Needed: One time cleaning

Desired Project Start Date: Tomorrow

Project: One Time Interior House Cleaning

Date: 10/2018

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Cleaning Type Needed: Move-out

Recurring Service Requested: Not applicable

What is the square footage of the house that needs cleaning?: Small (less than 1500 sq ft)

Desired Project Start Date: Within a few weeks

Project: Clean and Inspect a Chimney or Fireplace

Date: 10/2018

Desired Services: Chimney inspection

How many chimney flues need cleaning?: 1

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Desired Project Start Date: Unsure about timing

Project: One Time Interior House Cleaning

Date: 10/2018

Cleaning Type Needed: One time cleaning

Is this an emergency?: No

Request Stage: Planning & Budgeting

Desired Completion Date: 1 - 2 weeks

Project: Clean House Interior (Maid Service)

Date: 10/2018

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Cleaning Type Needed: Recurring Service

Recurring Service Requested: Monthly

What is the square footage of the house that needs cleaning?: Small (less than 1500 sq ft)

Desired Project Start Date: Within a few weeks

Comment: 1 bedroom,2 half baths,LR,Den,sm kitchen.like doors inside house top and trim around cleaned,no wall to wall carpet.have ceiling fan in LR high that need guy with ladder to clean at first

Project: One Time Interior House Cleaning

Date: 10/2018

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Cleaning Type Needed: One time cleaning

Desired Project Start Date: Within a few weeks

Comment: home refrigerator deep clean, microwave deep clean, bathroom deep cleaning.

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25 Best House Cleaning Services - Secaucus NJ | Maid Service