Home Builder Developer - Interior Renovation and Design

Watching the Kavanaugh hearing, its obvious that Leftists who dont believe in eternal damnation have no internal brakes stopping their evil behavior.

In 1954, Congress added the phrase under God to the Pledge of Allegiance, something it did as a direct rebuke to Godless communism. I never really focused on the Godless part of the phrase Godless communism. To me, communism was the scourge, and the Godless part was almost akin to a verbal twitch or perhaps a clear identifier. Theyre not justcommunists!TheyreGodless communists!

Thinking about it, though, the phrase Godless Communist has a deeper meaning than I first realized. To the extent that America was founded as a nation beholden to God (even though the First Amendment thankfully) ensured that the federal government could not impose religious values, rituals, or doctrines on people, communism was not only an economic threat, it was also cultural threat.

Communisms war on God undermined everything America stood for: A nation that took directly from the Creator Himself the self-evident truths underlying its ideals. Without a Creator, those self-evident truths become mere wishful thinking. Life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness as meaningless and ephemeral as any garden-variety slogan.

Now, more than ever! Just Do It! Does she or doesnt she? Only her hairdresser knows for sure. Life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness on sale now until supplies run out if you vote for your local Democrat politician.

Looking at the Kavanaugh hearings, though, I can see an even deeper implication to the dangers lurking behind Godless Communism. God is a moral brake. Without God, one may have rules, but they are simply man-made strictures with which men comply or avoid depending upon consequences from . . . other men.*

After all, there is no moral imperative regarding right turns on red. In some states, you can; in some states, you cant. And in those states in which right turns on red are barred, what stops us isnt any moral sense of wrongness, its the fear of getting caught and having to pay an expensive ticket. Some of our rules look back to the Bible (thou shalt not murder, thou shalt not steal, but we enforce them from a civil, not a religious perspective.

Again, Im grateful that our First Amendment keeps the judge from intoning that, not only are you going to prison, but youre also going to Hell.Having said that, though, I prefer a population that thinks Hell is part of the mix to one that doesnt. Again, government can be scary, but onlyif it catches you.An all-seeing, all-knowing, ethical Godalways catches you.

Ive mentioned before in connection with the hearings that Kavanaugh is an openly devout man. His faith is an integral part of his life. I think his is a true and deep faith, rather than hypocritical posturing. (I cant help think of Obama not really listening in Rev. Wrights church as the latter excoriated America.) If I am correct, Kavanaugh truly believes there is a God. [Read more]

Excerpt from:
Bookworm Room - Conservatives deal with facts and reach ...

Welcome to our photo gallery of completed basement remodeling projects in Chicagoland.

Northbrook,IL Basement Remodeling with a custom build Bar, floor tiles and entertainment area, 1,200 SQ. FT. of finished area

Long Grove, IL Basement Finishing with custom build "Espresso finish" bar and Black Galaxy Granite, Custom framed stairway railing also with "Espresso"stain to match bar. 1,500 SQ. FT. of finished area

Vernon Hills Basement Wet Bar with Cherry cabinets, granite counter top and Travertine back splash

Algonquin Basement Finishing, 1,400 SQ.FT. Custom build Bi-level Bar

Front view of Algonquin Basement Finishing

Custom Build Bar, Algonquin

Basement Remodeling, strairway access, custom framed clolumns, Schaumburg, IL

Custom Framed Arch, Schaumburg, IL

Decorative wall scounces, Schaumburg, IL

Entertainment room, Deerfield, IL

Hallway with custom framed arch, Schaumburg, IL

Game and exercise room, Hoffman Estates, IL

Basement Remodeling,bathroom stone tile floor, Inverness, IL

Custom stairway railing, Kildeer, IL

Brazillian Cherry Laminate Flooring, Kildeer, IL

Bathroom with Ceramic Tiles, Kildeer, IL

Half Wall, Laminate Flooring, St. Charles, IL

Laminate Flooring, French Door Opening to Home Office, St. Charles, IL

Modernized Bathroom with Vessel Sink, St. Charles, IL

Exercise Room with, Custom Build Closet with Bi-fold Door, St. Charles, IL

Basement Stairway Railing and Hallway, Lake Forest, IL

Storage Space Under Stairs, Lake Forest, IL

French door leading to Office Space

Custom Framed Sump Pump Access and Access for Electric Panel, Escape Window, Lake Zurich, IL

Standing Shower with Sliding doors and Ceramic Tile Walls, Libertiville, IL

Laminate Flooring and Custom Framed Columns, Oak Brook, IL

Web Bar with Granite Countertop and Stone Floor Tiles, Lake in the Hills, IL

Custom Build Shower with Shower Jets, Frameless Door and Tile Walls, Gilberts, IL

Basement Stairway Entrance, Hardwood Flooring and Bar area, South Barrington, IL

Custom Build Bi-level Bar with Onyx Countertop, South Barrington, IL

Stainless Steel Bar Sink, Build-in Wine Coolers, South Barrington, IL

Basement Home Theater Room with Projector Screen,South Barrington, IL

Home Theater Area with Ceiling Can Lights and Wall Scounces, South Barrington, IL

Custom Build Bi-level Wet Bar with Onyx Translucent Countertop, South Barrington, IL

Custom Build Strairway Railing, Lincolnwood, IL

Basement Kichen with White Cabinets and Granite Countertop, Lincolnwood, IL

Kitchen Area with Cabinets and Granite Countertop, Lincolnwood, IL

Ceramic Tile Floor, Storage Closet Under Stairs, Bartlet, IL

Basement Wet Bar Area with countertop and Stainless Steel Sink, Bartlet, IL

Custom Build Shower with Shower Panel and Body Sprays, Bartlet, IL

Basement Bathroom Floor and Tile Walls, Bartlet, IL

Carpet Stairway and Railing, West Dundee, IL

Custom Framed Drywall Arch Opening, West Dundee, IL

Ceiling Can Lights, West Dundee, IL

Basement Entrance to Garden with Sliding Doors and Ceramic Tile Entrance Way, West Dundee, IL

Bi-level Wet Bar with Pending Lights, South Elgin, IL

Bi-Level Wet Bar with Sink and Countertop, South Elgin, IL

Basement Bathroom with Pedestal Sink, South Elgin, IL

Corner Shower with Wall Tiles, South Elgin, IL

Palatine, IL Basement Finishing, 1,100 SQ.FT of finished area. Exercise room, full bathroom, bedroom and custom framed arch

Palatine, IL Basement Finishing with custom framed arch and lighting

Palatine Basement Finishing with french door opening to exercise room

Palatine, IL exercise room with custom build bench/closet space

Palatine, IL Basement Bathroom

Palatine, IL Bathroom

Palatine,IL Basement Guest Bedroom

Carpentersville, IL, 1,200 SQ. FT of finished area, Home Office, and custom framed entertainment room with shelves

Carpentersville,IL custom framed book shelves

Carpentersville,IL Home Office with custom framed shelves

Carpentersville,IL Home Office

back to the top of the page

Glenville, IL custom framed Bar with tile floor

Glenville, IL custom framed Bar

Park Ridge, IL custom build bi-level Bar with sink, wine rack, glass shelves, a place for fridge and a granite countertop

Northfield, IL Basement Bar

Front side of Bar in Northfield, IL

Streemwood, IL Basement Bar with pending lights and mirror

Winnetka, IL custom build Bar with granite countertop and decorative bar brackets and support poles

Elgin, IL Bi-level Basement Bar with granite countertop and sink

Hoffman Estates, IL Basement Bar with sink and granite countertop, wine rack and glass doors

Rolling Meadows,IL Basement Bar with granite countertop and space for fridge

Rolling Meadows, IL Basement Wet Bar with sink oak Cabintes

Elmhurst, IL Basement Bar with sink, granite countertop and under mouted fridge

Darien, IL Basement bi-level Bar with white cabinets and granite countertop

Glen Ellyn, IL Basement Bar with under mounted sink and "black galaxy" granite and maple cabinets

West Chicago, Basement Wet Bar with granite countertop, under mounted sink and maple cabinets

Custom build Bar in South Barrington, IL with "Onyx" translucent countertop

Custom build Bar in South Barrington,IL

Custom Build bi=level Bar with Onyx countertop and build-in wine cooler and fridge

back to the top of the page

Contact us now if you have any questions or call us at (773) 230-8104 or (773) 600-9251 to schedule FREE ESTIMATE.

The rest is here:
Basement Remodeling Photo Gallery - G&G Home, Inc

When youre interested in basement remodeling, you want only the best. You want cutting-edge designs, materials and technologies, and an experienced general contractor leading the way. With Finished Basements New Jersey, you get that and more.

Finished Basements NJ is owned and operated by Pat Gagliano who has over 30 years of experience and thousands of custom basement designs under his belt. Not only are we the premier basement remodeling company, we are masters of all home improvement projects, which is why we always say, If we cant do it it cant be done!

How do you get to be the most renowned company for finished basements in New Jersey? Exceptional customer service. This is our top priority, which is why we pride ourselves on our knowledgeable and courteous staff being eager to answer your questions regarding your home improvement needs. Its also why we guarantee our estimates within 24 hours of our visit to your home.

If youre looking for the best basement remodeling general contractor in the business, contact Finished Basements New Jersey today at 732-928-3433 for a free estimate and design consultation. The possibilities are endless!

See the original post here:
Finished Basements NJ | Home improvement | Basement Remodeling

Video: Working With Mineral Wool InsulationPlanning and getting started

Your basement can be more than a utility and storage area. With some forethought and good techniques, you can make it as warm, comfortable and inviting as any other room in the house. But, make no mistake about it: Finishing a basement is a big job. In this article, well focus on the framing and some unique problems, such as:

Get started by making a scale drawing of your plans to submit to your local building inspections department. Your plan should include wall dimensions, window and door sizes, and each rooms purpose (e.g., family, bedroom, etc.) along with any special features like fireplaces. Some rooms may require large windows, called egress windows, for fire safety. Ask your building inspector if you need them. Also measure the future finished ceiling height and low-hanging pipes or ducts thatll lower headroom. Sketch the details of the exterior wall construction you intend to use as we show in this article. If youre uncertain about the best use of space, hire an architect to help with the design. The permit itself will outline at what stages inspections are required. If you choose to do your own electrical work, draw up and submit that plan as well. With your plan and permit in hand, clear everything out of the basement and youre ready to go. Walk around the basement with caulk and cans of spray foam and plug every gap you can find between framing and masonry and around pipes or wires that penetrate the rim joist or exterior walls. This is your last chance to seal air leaks from the inside.

If you have a wet or damp basement, you must deal with the problem before you get started. To tell if walls are damp from exterior water or just condensation from humid interior air, tape a 2-ft. square sheet of plastic to the masonry. If moisture collects on the front of the plastic, you have condensation. The method we show for finishing will take care of that problem. If moisture collects on the backside after a few days, then water is wicking through the foundation wall from outside. The basement should be treated the same as if it were leaky. If you have regular seepage or water puddling after storms (even once every few years), you have to fix it permanently before finishing. Remedies for damp or wet basements can be as simple as rerouting downspouts, regrading slopes away from foundation walls, or applying water-resistant paints to interior surfaces. As a last resort, hire a pro to install perimeter drains and a sump pump. The bottom line is that its senseless to spend time and money finishing a basement if leaks or moisture will ruin your work or cause mold to grow.

Start the job by gluing 3/4-in. extruded polystyrene foam insulation to fit against the rim joists and foundation walls . Extruded polystyrene foam can be yellow, pink or blue depending on the manufacturer for insulating basement walls. Avoid expanded foam insulation (the type that has little white beads pressed together) when insulating basement walls because it isnt as durable and has a lower R-value. Make cuts by snapping chalk lines to mark and then score it with a utility knife as deep as the blade will penetrate. Then snap the sheet just like you cut drywall. Carefully cut around obstructions and fill spaces with small chunks of foam wherever its needed, working for tight fits.Spread a 1/4-in. bead of adhesive on masonry walls and press the sheets into place.

Then caulk seams and gaps between the framing and foam along the rim joists with more foam to seal against air infiltration and leaks. Youll add fiberglass later for a higher R-value. The foam greatly reduces heat transfer through the masonry and framing, and it eliminates the need for a plastic moisture barrier later. Be sure to use adhesive formulated for use with foam (about $3 per tube) when insulating basement walls. Conventional construction adhesive wont work for insulating basement walls.

Snap chalk lines 4 in. away from the insulation on the exterior walls. Then cut 24 bottom and top plates and lay out stud locations every 16 in. on each plate as youre insulating basement walls.

Squeeze a 1/4-in. bead of construction adhesive to bottom plates and position them. Then pre-drill with a hammer drill and anchor them with concrete screws.

Nail 24 blocking about every 3 ft. into the first floor joist to support the top plate. Toe-screw them to the rim joist through the foam to continuing insulating basement walls.

Plumb from the edge of the bottom plate to the blocking with a straight 24 and level. Snap a chalk line and screw the top plate to the blocking with 3-in. screws.

Measure between the plates at each layout mark and cut each stud to length. Then toenail the studs into place at the top and bottom with two 8d (2-3/8 in.) nails in one side and a third centered on the other side.

When youre framing half walls, make all of the studs the same length and cut them so the wallis slightly taller than the masonry. The wall may be uneven because of floor inconsistencies, but you can always sight along the top plate and then shim it until its flat before installing the finished top cap.Then lay out the stud locations on the plate and nail the studs in place with 16d nails.

Tip the knee walls up and fasten them to the floor. Then fasten blocks through the foam into the masonry at every third stud with 3-in. concrete screws. Plumb and screw the studs to the blocking for a solid wall. Be sure to sight along its entire length to make sure its straight.

Most basements have ductwork and plumbing mounted at the ceiling along an existing wall. Boxing in those pipes and ducts and then drywalling the assembly is the best way to conceal them. The whole structure is called a soffit.

Begin by measuring to the floor to find the lowest pipe or duct in the room; thatll define how low the soffit must be.Mark a point 2 in. lower on the wall to allow space for the framing and drywall and nail on a 24 nailing strip using the chalk line to position the bottom of the strip. Then snap another line on the bottom of the joists with a 2-1/2 in. clearance.Then snap another line on the bottom of the joists with a 2-1/2 in. clearance.

To build a soffit front rip 1/2-in. plywood strips to the depth of the soffit and screw 2x2s even with both edges with 1-5/8 in. screws. Its easiest to preassemble the 8-ft. long soffit side sections and screw them to the bottom of the floor joists. If soffits end at walls, build the walls first.

Snap a chalk line on the floor joists 2-1/2 in. away from the nearest obstruction and parallel to the wall. Position the assembly along the chalk line and fasten it to the bottom of the floor joists with 3-in. screws.

String a line even with the inside edge of the plywood and use it to determine exact lookout lengths. Nail them in place every 16 in.

Partition walls are any walls that arent against exterior foundation walls or walls that support floors above. Lay out partition walls by snapping chalk lines to mark both sides of the bottom plates.That keeps you from building walls on the wrong side of single lines!

Also, in a basement, the top and bottom plates are often different lengths. Thats because top plates may project past foundation walls and be longer or run into soffits and be shorter. (See both cases in the photo with step 3.) When you line up the plates to mark stud locations, be sure to account for differences (Photo with step 2).

Mark both sides of partition walls with chalk lines, then center and nail 26 backer boards in walls that they join. The chalk lineskeep you from building walls on the wrong side of single lines!

Mark door openings on the floor to avoid putting glue under doors. Frame partition walls as you did the outside walls, again installing blocking between joists wherever its needed. Add 26 backers on walls that meet partitions (as explained in step 1). They provide support and nailers for drywall. Before you tie the partition walls to exterior stud walls (non-masonry, without foam), staple 2-ft. wide strips of polyethylene over the 26 backers. That way youll be able to seal this type of outside wall with a continuous moisture barrier in cooler climate zones.

Frame the door openings 2-1/2 in. higher and 2-1/2 in. wider than the door youre installing. This rough opening allows adequate space for the door plus its frame. Use a regular stud plus a trimmer on each side of the door. If you have low headroom, you may need to cut your doors down or special-order shorter ones. Remember to allow overhead space for the door trim. Trim thats either missing or ripped too narrow over doors with inadequate clearance will really detract from the appearance of the room.

TIP: Partially cut through the underside of the bottom plate at the edges of the door rough opening to make removal easier later on.

Nearly every basement has something that will project past finished surfaces. That can include beams, posts, drain lines, water piping or surface mounted wires. Its a simple matter to frame or fur out around projections and then drywall and finish them to blend in with surrounding surfaces. Youll have to maintain access to other things like electrical junction boxes and plumbing shutoffs and clean outs. If you need future access to anything, just frame around it and cut out the opening when you drywall.

Frame around ceiling valves with 2x2s. If you need future access to anything, just frame around it and cut out the opening when you drywall. Then, after taping and painting, screw a return air grate over the opening to conceal it but still have access. Return air grates are available in various sizes for about $5 at home centers. Check the sizes of available grates and frame the accesses slightly smaller.

Frame around protruding plumbing with 2x6s nailed to adjoining studs. Frame clean outs for an access panel.

Sometimes furring down part of or the entire ceiling is the best way to bury surface-mounted pipes or wires. Use either 2x4s or 2x2s running perpendicular to the joists to add 1-1/2 in. of dead space so you can drywall over the top of everything (Photo 3). Be sure to run all the wiring and other things you might want before hanging the drywall.

If you have a lot of deep projections from the ceiling or you need a lot of access, consider installing a suspended ceiling rather than drywalling. The downside is that youll lose at least a few additional inches of ceiling height.

Finish round steel columns by framing around them with 2x4s. You can then face the framing with drywall or decorative wood as shown in the opening photo.

Plus, check out these wall framing tips for new construction.

Have the necessary tools for this DIY insulating basement walls project lined up before you startyoull save time and frustration.

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time to begin insulating basement walls. Heres a list.

Read the rest here:
How to Finish a Basement: Framing and Insulating The ...

Once the lawn is bare, you need to loosen the dirt. Rent a rototiller $50 for four hours, or $80 for a full day and add compost.

You may also want to buy an at-home soil testing kit ($12 to $15), which will tell you the pH level of your soil, along with its nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium levels.

This, in turn, helps you determine what type of fertilizer, and how much, you need to put on the lawn. Finally, you need to tamp down your lawn using a hand tamper ($32).

When it comes time to start laying the sod, you need a landscape rake to level dirt ($30), and a 2-inchcutting knife ($20) to trim sod squares. Lay the new sod so that each row is staggered: make sure the "long" edges are tight to one another but the cut ends of the roll aren't side by side.

Don't try doing this alone; convince at least one friend or family member to lend a hand. Once the sod is down, you want to roll it using a lawn roller, then rent a fertilizer spreader ($50) and buy fertilizer ($20 per bag).

Visit link:
How Much Does it Cost to Lay Sod? | Angie's List

Watch the full episode: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/tv/as...

Ask This Old House general contractor Tom Silva reveals the best ways to secure shingles to a roof. (See below for a shopping list, tools, and steps.)

Click here to SUBSCRIBE to the official This Old House YouTube channel: http://www.youtube.com/subscription_c...

Shopping List for How to Install Roof Shingles: - 8-inch aluminum drip edge- 1 1/4-inch galvanized roofing nails- 30-lb. asphalt roofing felt paper- 3-tab shingles

Tools List for How to Install Roof Shingles: - Chalk line- Tape measure- Hammer- Rafter square- Utility knife

Steps for How to Install Roof Shingles: 1. These project guidelines are for low roofs that allow easy access, such as those on porches, sheds, or doghouses. For larger roofs, hiring a professional roofing crew with proper fall protection is advised.2. Line up aluminum drip edge flush with the edge of the roof and make a pencil line at the top on each end of the house.3. Using the chalk line, snap a line between the two marks to get a straight edge.4. Pull the drip edge down about a half-inch from that line to create a gap between the drip edge and the fascia board.5. Nail the drip edge in place using 1 1/4-inch galvanized roofing nails and a hammer.6. Repeat steps for gabled ends, installing the drip edge up the roof along the gable.7. Lay out 30-lb. asphalt roofing felt paper and nail it in place using 1 1/4-inch galvanized roofing nails.8. To lay out the design for the shingles, begin at the bottom of the roof and place a tape measure 1/2 inch from the edge of the roof to ensure the shingles overhang the drip edge.9. Mark 12 inches up on the roof for the first course of shingles, then mark every 5 inches all the way up the roof to set your reveal. Do this on both sides of the roof.10. Using the chalk line, snap a straight line on each 5-inch increment.11. Use the chalk line to snap a straight line vertically every 6 inches.12. Install a starter course by cutting off the three tabs on a shingle, leaving only the top tar section.

Follow This Old House and Ask This Old House: Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ThisOldHouseTwitter: https://twitter.com/thisoldhousehttps://twitter.com/asktohPinterest: http://www.pinterest.com/thisoldhouse/G+: https://plus.google.com/+thisoldhouse...Instagram: http://instagram.com/thisoldhouseTumblr: http://thisoldhouse.tumblr.com/

Go here to see the original:
How to Install Roof Shingles

$73.75

Add to Cart

$73.75

Add to Cart

$48.75

Add to Cart

$56.25

Add to Cart

$52.50

Add to Cart

$56.25

Add to Cart

$52.50

Add to Cart

$102.70

Add to Cart

$110.50

Add to Cart

$63.25

Add to Cart

$89.70

Add to Cart

$73.75

Add to Cart

If a burglar has entered your home, you might ask yourself, Were they in my bedroom? Did they go through this closet? That discomforting question of What If is answered with at home security cameras. Even if a breaking and entering has occurred, the ability to go back and retrace exactly what happened is peace of mind in itself.

Statistics show that you are less likely to be invaded if a thief spots a security camera because at home security cameras frighten burglars, plain and simple. Thats why HomeSecurityStore.com stocks an endless selection of wireless surveillance cameras, for every type of person and every type of property.

Wireless surveillance cameras make installation and use simple and effective. They are a growing trend among home and business owners. Are you worried about catching footage of intrusion after dark? Infrared cameras with built-in LED lights offer an extra sense of safety when light is not of abundance. We carry these and more options of at home security cameras from such top-industry brands as Lorex and Atrix, among many others.

We also sell Surveillance Warning Signs for ultimate home protection if youre looking to just start or improve your camera surveillance system.

For business owners, installing wireless surveillance cameras in an office or warehouse has proved to improve worker productivity and lower the chances of employee theft. Plus, we have bullet, dome, IP, spy and of course fake at home security cameras for all the protection you could ever ask for.

When selecting the security camera that is right for you, make sure you consider: areas in your home or business with a lot of foot traffic, places rarely paid attention to on your property and decide whether or not you want your wireless surveillance cameras to be on display or hidden.

Keeping watch of your property 24/7 may be a demanding task if you dont have enough resources and manpower to spare. Dont let this hinder you from protecting your home or office against possible theft or burglary by putting up Surveillance Warning Signs in and around your property

See the article here:
Wireless Surveillance Cameras | At Home Security Cameras

Security Camera vs Surveillance Camera

While the terms are regularly used interchangeably, there is a slight difference between security cameras and surveillance cameras. The difference is whether a camera is passive or active. Surveillance cameras are passive. They observe and/or record whatever is happening in their field of view. Security cameras are active. They alert people to unexpected events within their field of view. This distinction can be very subtle or very large depending on the circumstances of a particular situation. For instance, if a surveillance camera sends a constant feed to a monitor that is continually viewed by a security guard, it is essentially functioning as a security camera because simply by viewing the feed from the camera the guard would be alerted to anything unexpected happening within its field of view. However, most modern security cameras have the ability to detect motion and send alerts to owners or authorities via text or emails.

Finding the best home security camera comes down to whether it meets your specific needs. Do you want a security camera to deter burglars, or are you more interested in keeping an eye on children or pets? Before you dive into the specs and features of different home security cameras, take the time to identify why you want the camera and what you need it to do.

If youre concerned about break-ins or keeping deliveries safe, an outdoor security camera with motion alerts might be the best fit. Check in on kids after school, or tell Fido to give the barking a rest with an indoor security camera that can provide live streaming and two-way talk.

Once you've decided on an indoor or outdoor security camera (or both!) there are other factors to consider. Outdoor cameras need to withstand changes in temperature and be sturdy enough to survive rain or high winds.

Indoor security cameras dont need to be quite as tough as the ones you install outside, but they should be unobtrusive. Many people look for indoor cameras designed to complement their homes dcor. For both types of security cameras, note how theyre powered and consider the proximity of a power source if they dont run on batteries. The last thing you need is a dead security camera when it matters most.

Security cameras come with different fields of view, which refers to how much of your home or yard you can see at any one time. This can make a big impact on the type and number of security cameras you need to ensure full coverage.

If you want to watch over more than one room or outdoor area, look for a home security camera system that lets you hook up multiple cameras. It should also allow different users to receive alerts and check in on whats happening. That way, if youre in a meeting when something happens, your spouse or a neighbor could also get the alert. Another feature that can help you cover more area is the ability to pan and tilt the security camera.

Theres no reason to limit the power of your camera surveillance system to visuals only. Some security cameras have both sound and motion alerts, which provide extra protection. But these cameras usually let you only listen in and dont accommodate two-way audio.

If you want to give directions to a delivery person or scare away a potential intruder, two-way talk is the way to go. These home security cameras work like an intercom. They have a mic that picks up sound near the camera, plus a speaker that lets you interact with people or pets on the other end.

The sun never sets on neighborhood crime. Thats why you need a home security camera that captures crisp images in all kinds of light. Weve all dealt with photos that are too dark to make out any details. Its frustrating when its a wedding photo, but its nerve-racking when youre trying to capture a face or license plate after a break-in.

Pay attention to the lighting in the areas where you want to install security cameras. Look for features like night vision and motion-activated floodlightsespecially for outdoor security cameras. And beware of using an indoor camera to look outside; they cant usually capture images through a window or after dark.

Image resolution can also impact the quality of home security footage. Make sure the camera you choose produces high-resolution images that can help identify culprits if your home is ever targeted.

Today theres a lot more to a home security camera than video surveillance. Many of the best security camera systems also help turn your house into a smart home. Security cameras can often integrate with a smart home hub like Amazon Echo or Google Home.

This can give you a huge home security advantagethe ability to remotely control lights, door locks, and your security cameras. You can also program your system to boost security measures when youre out of town or during the holidays when lots of packages are delivered. If home automation is something that matters to you, keep this in mind when selecting your security camera.

Home surveillance cameras that stream video and send alerts via email and text can use up a lot of data on your home network. How much bandwidth your camera uses depends on many factors. Some of the considerations include image resolution and whether your camera records everything or only clips triggered by motion or sound.

Another consideration is the number of cameras in your surveillance camera system. The more devices on the network, the more data theyll use. If you have caps on your internet data usage, make sure you understand how your security camera(s) could impact your monthly bill. You should also verify that your router can handle the extra devices and outputespecially if you plan on using wireless security cameras.

Link:
14 Best Home Security Cameras of 2018 - Indoor and Outdoor

Overview

If you have some basic plumbing experience, you can replace a water heater yourself and save $200 to $400 in plumbers fees. Well show you how to replace a conventional natural gas water heater. The procedure is the same for a propane heater. If you choose a power vented gas model, all the water and gas connections are the same as we show, but the venting steps are different. For more, search for power-vented water heater above. Replacing an electric water heater is a little easier. All the water connections are the same and you dont have to deal with gas piping or venting. For details on situations different from the one we show here (such as electric models, plastic water lines or copper gas lines) search for replace water heater above.

If you have lots of plumbing experience, you might be able to complete this project in half a day. But we recommend you start in the morning so you have plenty of time to get the job done and not leave your family without hot water overnight. Youll need a helper to carry the old unit out and the new one in. Check with your trash hauler or recycling center to find out how to dispose of the old heater.

A new water heater will cost from $250 to $500, depending on the size, efficiency and warranty. The materials youll need for the installation depend on your situation and local codes.

Even if youve worked with plumbing and gas lines in the past, play it safe and contact your local department of inspections. Get a permit (if required), and go over your installation plans with an inspector.

Shut off the gas by turning the handle a quarter turn. In the off position, the handle is perpendicular to the pipe.

Disconnect the gas at the union fitting. Place the larger wrench on the nut and hold the unions collar with another wrench. Start with the wrenches a quarter turn apart.

Cut the cold water line above the old gate valve to make room for a new ball valve. Cut the hot water line at the same height.

To get started, turn off the gas at the valve near the water heater (Photo 1).

If the isolation valve above your water heater is a gate valve (Photo 3), we recommend that you replace it with a ball valve (Photo 4). Be sure to choose a fullport valve. Gate valves often leak or wont close tightly. To replace the valve, youll have to shut off the water at the main valve (usually near the meter). That means your whole house will be without water until you install the new valve. If you already have a ball valve or if you choose to leave the old gate valve in place, you can simply shut it off. That way the rest of the house will have cold water while you work (toilets will still work!).

With the water and gas off, drain the water heater. Attach a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank, route it to a floor drain and open the drain valve. To allow air into the hot water lines and speed up the draining process, go to the highest faucet in the house and turn on the hot side only (on single-handle faucets, push the lever all the way to the left).

If your valve doesnt look like this one, see Old gas valves can leak.

Disconnect the gas line at the union (Photo 2). Then disassemble the threaded tee and drip leg and remove the nipple from the water heater gas control valve. Dont throw them awayyoull need them for the new water heater. If your gas line is copper or a flexible supply line, just unscrew the nut.

To disassemble the vent piping, remove the sheet metal screws. Wear gloves; the ends of the metal piping are sharp. You can reuse the vent pipes if theyre in good shape. But if you find even slight holes, cracks or corrosion, toss them into the trash. New pipe is inexpensive and leaks can allow deadly carbon monoxide to build up in your home.

Next, cut the copper water lines with a tubing cutter (Photo 3). If you have copper corrugated water lines, simply disconnect the nuts at the water heater. If you have galvanized steel pipes, disconnect unions just as we did with the gas union shown in Photo 2. Also unscrew the blow tube from the temperature and pressure (T&P) valve. You may be able to reuse it on the new water heater.

At this point, the old heater should have drained enough so it can be moved off to the side (with a helper). If the heater isnt draining fast enough, sediment may be clogging the valve. Allow it to drain as long as possible and then move the heater outside so you can remove the drain valve from the tank.

Reconnect the water. Install new valves first so you can turn on the water to the rest of the house. Then install nipples, followed by threaded fittings and stubs of pipe. Hold the final section in place to mark the length.

Make the final connections with slip couplers. Be sure the coupler doesnt slide down as you heat it.

Set the drain pan into place with the opening facing the floor drain. Get someone to help you lift and set the heater in the pan. If youre replacing the isolation valve, solder on the new ball valve next.

Screw dielectric nipples into the new water heater. These plastic-lined nipples reduce corrosion and increase water heater life. Some water heaters come with dielectric nipples already installed (buy a set if yours doesnt have them). Be sure to coat the threads with pipe thread sealant or wrap with Teflon tape. Next, solder female threaded copper pipe fittings to short lengths of copper tubing and set them aside to cool. Tighten the cooled fittings onto the nipples. Then add short sections of pipe below the valves (Photo 4) and make the final connections with slip couplers (Photo 5). You must use slip couplersstandard stopped couplers wont work. For tips on soldering copper pipe, search for solder above.

Thread a blow tube onto the T&P valve. If the old blow tube is too short, you can use 3/4-in. galvanized steel pipe or copper pipe (along with a male threaded fitting). If you use galvanized pipe, cut off the threads on the bottom to prevent someone from capping off the blow tube if the T&P valve leaks.

Connect the vent pipe to the hood with sheet metal screws. Never use a reducer, even if the hoods opening is smaller than the vent pipe.

Snap the new draft hood onto the water heater and secure it with sheet metal screws. Check the installation manual for the recommended diameter vent pipe for your new heater. If the recommended vent pipe diameter is larger than the vent hood opening, dont install a reducer. Measure a straight section of new galvanized vent pipe to rise as high as possible before you install the adjustable elbow (the higher the rise, the better the draft). On any horizontal sections of vent, make sure the pipe slopes down toward the water heater 1/4 in. per foot of pipe. Bend out small sections of the pipe and attach it directly to the vent hood with screws (Photo 6). Then continue installing new vent pipe sections and connect to the flue. Most plumbing codes require a minimum of three screws for each vent pipe joint. For tips on cutting metal venting, search sheet metal above.

Reconnect the gas. Hold back the control valve to avoid damaging it. Then screw the drip leg into the tee.

Measure between the union and the tee and add 1 in. to determine the correct nipple length.

Test for leaks by brushing soapy water onto every connection. If you see bubbles, tighten or reconnect the joint.

Apply gas-rated pipe thread sealant or tape (dont use standard white Teflon tape) to the gas nipple and thread it into the new gas control valve. Tighten the nipple using two pipe wrenches (Photo 7). Assemble the tee and drip leg using the same two-wrench technique.

If the old section of pipe below the union no longer fits, youll need to measure for a new nipple (Photo 8). Make sure you assemble and tighten the gas union before you measure the length for the intermediate nipple. Add 3/4 in. to 1 in. to this measurement and buy a new nipple. When the gas connections are complete, turn on the gas and check for leaks (Photo 9). You can buy leak detector in a convenient spray bottle ($3) or mix your own solution (one part dish detergent, two parts water).

Open the water valves and an upstairs faucet and fill the tank. Leave the faucet open until water flows out. Then shut it off and check the new water connections for leaks. Open the gas valve and light the pilot light following the manufacturers instructions. Youre in for a pleasant surprise with your new water heatermanufacturers have done away with the old match-lit pilot system. Instead of igniting the pilot with a match or lighter, you just push a button.

When the burner fires up, test for backdrafting, which can allow deadly carbon monoxide into your home. Close all doors and windows and turn on kitchen and bath exhaust fans. When the burner has been running for at least one minute, move an incense stick around the draft hood. The smoke should be drawn up into the vent. If not, the exhaust may be entering your home. Turn off the gas and call in a professional plumber.

Finally, set the thermostat to a safe temperature. (For help, search for water heater temperature above.) In about two hours, youll have enough hot water for a well-deserved long shower.

The grease-pack valves found in older homes tend to leak as they age. Even if your local code doesnt require replacement, we recommend you install a ball-type gas valve instead ($10). Replacement isnt difficult; you just unscrew the old valve and screw on the new one. But you will have to turn off the main gas valve and later relight pilot lights. If you dont know how to handle these tasks, call in a professional plumber and expect to pay $80 to $150.

Youll find lots of accessories for your new water heater at the home center. Some are required by local codes; others are just good ideas. Plumbing codes vary, so check with your local inspector.

1. Gas shutoff valveAll codes require a gas valve near the water heater. If you have a grease-pack valve, see Old Gas Valves Can Leak section above.

2. Earthquake strapsThese straps prevent a water heater from tipping over and are required in earthquake-prone areas. $12 per pair.

3. Flexible gas lineA flexible gas line can withstand movement and is usually required in earthquake-prone areas. Theyre easier to connect than steel pipe, but theyre not allowed everywhere, so check with your inspector. $15.

4. Drip legAny dust or grit in the gas line falls into this short section of pipe before it can reach the water heaters control valve. The required length of the drip leg varies.

5. Isolation valveAll codes require a valve on the cold water line. Though not required by codes, a second valve on the hot line makes future water heater replacement easier. $10 each.

6. Flexible water linesThese flexible lines withstand movement and are required in earthquake zones. But you may want to use them just because theyre easy to install. $20 per pair.

7. Overflow panMost plumbing codes require a pan and drain pipe in locations where a leak can cause damage. But installing a drain pan is a good idea for any location. $18.

8. Expansion tankSome codes require an expansion tank to absorb the pressure created when heated water expands. $35.

9. Blow tubeThe T&P valve releases pressure, and a blow tube directs the scalding hot water toward the floor. The required distance between the blow tube and floor is usually 18 in. or less.

New Jersey building codes require a bonding wire be installed between the cold/hot pipes and the gas line. The majority of local codes dont require the bonding wires but they do serve a purpose. According to the experts we spoke with, bonding wires may actually extend the life of the water heater by diverting electrolysis from the anode rod and tankeven on electric models. So whether or not your local code calls for the bonding wire, you may want to install one to get more life out of your water heater. This little project is brain-dead simple. It only costs about $10 and takes about 10 minutes.

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you startyoull save time and frustration.

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Heres a list.

More:
Water Heater Installation | The Family Handyman

5" & 6" ALUMINUM RAIN GUTTERS

Our goal here at A-1 Seamless Gutters is to give our customers the best looking and strongest seamless gutter systems out there!!! Our reputation depends on it. Happy customers keep us busy. CUSTOMERS AMAZED AT WHAT WE CAN DO FOR THEM IS WHAT KEEPS US ON TOP.

Locally owned and operated since 1989

Call us today 207-946-4999

Or use the information below to call us

Fill the form below and we can contact you

Our copper gutters are made from 16oz. or 20oz. copper. Our copper is pure, not plated. Gutter caps, outlets and down spouts are copper. Hangers will be copper and or brass depending on type for strength. Screws are stainless steel and or copper.

Our aluminum gutter systems are made from .032 primary aluminum. This is the thickest and strongest aluminum available for seamless gutters. All standard colors are baked on enamels so they will not fade, peel or crack. 90% of our gutters are installed with modified hidden hangers. These hangers are incredibly strong and not seen from the ground.

Keeping your gutters clean is keyto assure theypreformat 100%, and continueprotecting your house. We offer three levels of Gutter protection to help with this task.

A-1 SEAMLESS GUTTERS is NOT a franchise

5" & 6" COPPER SEAMLESS GUTTERS

Toll free at: 877-375-4888

Toll Free at: 877-375-4888

Link:
Gutter Installation - A-1 Seamless Gutters