Home Builder Developer - Interior Renovation and Design

Electrical wiring is an electrical installation of cabling and associated devices such as switches, distribution boards, sockets and light fittings in a structure.

Wiring is subject to safety standards for design and installation. Allowable wire and cable types and sizes are specified according to the circuit operating voltage and electric current capability, with further restrictions on the environmental conditions, such as ambient temperature range, moisture levels, and exposure to sunlight and chemicals.

Associated circuit protection, control and distribution devices within a building's wiring system are subject to voltage, current and functional specification. Wiring safety codes vary by locality, country or region. The International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) is attempting to harmonise wiring standards amongst member countries, but significant variations in design and installation requirements still exist.

Wiring installation codes and regulations are intended to protect people and property from electrical shock and fire hazards. They are usually based on a model code (with or without local amendments) produced by a national or international standards organisation, such as the IEC.

In Australia and New Zealand, the AS/NZS 3000 standard, commonly known as the "wiring rules", specifies requirements for the selection and installation of electrical equipment, and the design and testing of such installations. The standard is mandatory in both New Zealand and Australia; therefore, all electrical work covered by the standard must comply.

In European countries, an attempt has been made to harmonise national wiring standards in an IEC standard, IEC 60364 Electrical Installations for Buildings. Hence national standards follow an identical system of sections and chapters. However, this standard is not written in such language that it can readily be adopted as a national wiring code. Neither is it designed for field use by electrical tradesmen and inspectors for testing compliance with national wiring standards. By contrast, national codes, such as the NEC or CSA C22.1, generally exemplify the common objectives of IEC 60364, but provide specific rules in a form that allows for guidance of those installing and inspecting electrical systems.

In Germany, DKE (the German Commission for Electrical, Electronic and Information Technologies of DIN and VDE) is the organisation responsible for the promulgation of electrical standards and safety specifications. DIN VDE 0100 is the German wiring regulations document harmonised with IEC 60364.

The first electrical codes in the United States originated in New York in 1881 to regulate installations of electric lighting. Since 1897 the US National Fire Protection Association, a private non-profit association formed by insurance companies, has published the National Electrical Code (NEC). States, counties or cities often include the NEC in their local building codes by reference along with local differences. The NEC is modified every three years. It is a consensus code considering suggestions from interested parties. The proposals are studied by committees of engineers, tradesmen, manufacturer representatives, fire fighters and other invitees.

Since 1927, the Canadian Standards Association (CSA) has produced the Canadian Safety Standard for Electrical Installations, which is the basis for provincial electrical codes. The CSA also produces the Canadian Electrical Code, the 2006 edition of which references IEC 60364 (Electrical Installations for Buildings) and states that the code addresses the fundamental principles of electrical protection in Section 131. The Canadian code reprints Chapter 13 of IEC 60364, but there are no numerical criteria listed in that chapter to assess the adequacy of any electrical installation.

Although the US and Canadian national standards deal with the same physical phenomena and broadly similar objectives, they differ occasionally in technical detail. As part of the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) program, US and Canadian standards are slowly converging toward each other, in a process known as harmonisation.

In the United Kingdom, wiring installations are regulated by the Institution of Engineering and Technology Requirements for Electrical Installations: IEE Wiring Regulations, BS 7671: 2008, which are harmonised with IEC 60364. The 17th edition (issued in January 2008) includes new sections for microgeneration and solar photovoltaic systems. The first edition was published in 1882.

In a typical electrical code, some colour-coding of wires is mandatory. Many local rules and exceptions exist per country, state or region.[1] Older installations vary in colour codes, and colours may fade with insulation exposure to heat, light and ageing.

As of March 2011, the European Committee for Electrotechnical Standardization (CENELEC) requires the use of green/yellow colour cables as protective conductors, blue as neutral conductors and brown as single-phase conductors.[2]

The United States National Electrical Code requires a bare copper, or green or green/yellow insulated protective conductor, a white or grey neutral, with any other color used for single phase. The NEC also requires the "high leg" conductor of a High-leg delta or "bastard-leg" system to have orange insulation.

The introduction of the NEC clearly states that it is not intended to be a design manual, and therefore, creating a color code for ungrounded or "hot" conductors falls outside the scope and purpose of the NEC. However, it is a common misconception that "hot" conductor color-coding is required by the Code.

In the United States, color-coding of three-phase system conductors follows a de facto standard, wherein black, red, and blue are used for three-phase 120/208-volt systems, and brown, orange, and yellow are used in 277/480-volt systems. In buildings with multiple voltage systems, the grounded conductors (neutrals) of both systems are required to be identified and made distinguishable to avoid cross-system connections. Most often, 120/208-volt systems use white insulation, while 277/480-volt systems use gray insulation, although this particular color code is not currently an explicit requirement of the NEC.[3]

The United Kingdom requires the use of wire covered with green/yellow striped insulation, for safety earthing (grounding) connections.[4] This growing international standard was adopted for its distinctive appearance, to reduce the likelihood of dangerous confusion of safety earthing (grounding) wires with other electrical functions, especially by persons affected by red-green colour blindness.

In the UK, phases could be identified as being live by using coloured indicator lights: red, yellow and blue. The new cable colours of brown, black and grey do not lend themselves to coloured indicators. For this reason, three-phase control panels will often use indicator lights of the old colours.[5]

Materials for wiring interior electrical systems in buildings vary depending on:

Wiring systems in a single family home or duplex, for example, are simple, with relatively low power requirements, infrequent changes to the building structure and layout, usually with dry, moderate temperature and non-corrosive environmental conditions. In a light commercial environment, more frequent wiring changes can be expected, large apparatus may be installed and special conditions of heat or moisture may apply. Heavy industries have more demanding wiring requirements, such as very large currents and higher voltages, frequent changes of equipment layout, corrosive, or wet or explosive atmospheres. In facilities that handle flammable gases or liquids, special rules may govern the installation and wiring of electrical equipment in hazardous areas.

Wires and cables are rated by the circuit voltage, temperature rating and environmental conditions (moisture, sunlight, oil, chemicals) in which they can be used. A wire or cable has a voltage (to neutral) rating and a maximum conductor surface temperature rating. The amount of current a cable or wire can safely carry depends on the installation conditions.

The international standard wire sizes are given in the IEC 60228 standard of the International Electrotechnical Commission. In North America, the American Wire Gauge standard for wire sizes is used.

Modern non-metallic sheathed cables, such as (US and Canadian) Types NMB and NMC, consist of two to four wires covered with thermoplastic insulation, plus a bare wire for grounding (bonding), surrounded by a flexible plastic jacket. Some versions wrap the individual conductors in paper before the plastic jacket is applied.

Special versions of non-metallic sheathed cables, such as US Type UF, are designed for direct underground burial (often with separate mechanical protection) or exterior use where exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UV) is a possibility. These cables differ in having a moisture-resistant construction, lacking paper or other absorbent fillers, and being formulated for UV resistance.

Rubber-like synthetic polymer insulation is used in industrial cables and power cables installed underground because of its superior moisture resistance.

Insulated cables are rated by their allowable operating voltage and their maximum operating temperature at the conductor surface. A cable may carry multiple usage ratings for applications, for example, one rating for dry installations and another when exposed to moisture or oil.

Generally, single conductor building wire in small sizes is solid wire, since the wiring is not required to be very flexible. Building wire conductors larger than 10 AWG (or about 6mm) are stranded for flexibility during installation, but are not sufficiently pliable to use as appliance cord.

Cables for industrial, commercial and apartment buildings may contain many insulated conductors in an overall jacket, with helical tape steel or aluminium armour, or steel wire armour, and perhaps as well an overall PVC or lead jacket for protection from moisture and physical damage. Cables intended for very flexible service or in marine applications may be protected by woven bronze wires. Power or communications cables (e.g., computer networking) that are routed in or through air-handling spaces (plenums) of office buildings are required under the model building code to be either encased in metal conduit, or rated for low flame and smoke production.

For some industrial uses in steel mills and similar hot environments, no organic material gives satisfactory service. Cables insulated with compressed mica flakes are sometimes used. Another form of high-temperature cable is a mineral insulated cable, with individual conductors placed within a copper tube and the space filled with magnesium oxide powder. The whole assembly is drawn down to smaller sizes, thereby compressing the powder. Such cables have a certified fire resistance rating and are more costly than non-fire rated cable. They have little flexibility and behave more like rigid conduit rather than flexible cables.

The environment of the installed wires determine how much current a cable is permitted to carry. Because multiple conductors bundled in a cable cannot dissipate heat as easily as single insulated conductors, those circuits are always rated at a lower "ampacity". Tables in electrical safety codes give the maximum allowable current based on size of conductor, voltage potential, insulation type and thickness, and the temperature rating of the cable itself. The allowable current will also be different for wet or dry locations, for hot (attic) or cool (underground) locations. In a run of cable through several areas, the part with the lowest rating becomes the rating of the overall run.

Cables usually are secured with special fittings where they enter electrical apparatus; this may be a simple screw clamp for jacketed cables in a dry location, or a polymer-gasketed cable connector that mechanically engages the armour of an armoured cable and provides a water-resistant connection. Special cable fittings may be applied to prevent explosive gases from flowing in the interior of jacketed cables, where the cable passes through areas where flammable gases are present. To prevent loosening of the connections of individual conductors of a cable, cables must be supported near their entrance to devices and at regular intervals along their runs. In tall buildings, special designs are required to support the conductors of vertical runs of cable. Generally, only one cable per fitting is permitted, unless the fitting is rated or listed for multiple cables.

Special cable constructions and termination techniques are required for cables installed in ships. Such assemblies are subjected to environmental and mechanical extremes. Therefore, in addition to electrical and fire safety concerns, such cables may also be required to be pressure-resistant where they penetrate a vessel's bulkheads. They must also resist corrosion caused by salt water or salt spray, which is accomplished through the use of thicker, specially constructed jackets, and by tinning the individual wire stands.

In North American practice, an overhead cable from a transformer on a power pole to a residential electrical service usually consists of three twisted (triplexed) conductors, with one being a bare neutral conductor, with the other two being the insulated conductors for both of the two 180 degree out of phase 120 V line voltages normally supplied.[8] The neutral conductor is often a supporting "messenger" steel wire, which is used to support the insulated Line conductors.

Electrical devices often contain copper conductors because of their multiple beneficial properties, including their high electrical conductivity, tensile strength, ductility, creep resistance, corrosion resistance, thermal conductivity, coefficient of thermal expansion, solderability, resistance to electrical overloads, compatibility with electrical insulators and ease of installation.

Despite competition from other materials, copper remains the preferred electrical conductor in nearly all categories of electrical wiring.[9][10] For example, copper is used to conduct electricity in high, medium and low voltage power networks, including power generation, power transmission, power distribution, telecommunications, electronics circuitry, data processing, instrumentation, appliances, entertainment systems, motors, transformers, heavy industrial machinery and countless other types of electrical equipment.[11]

Aluminium wire was common in North American residential wiring from the late 1960s to mid-1970s due to the rising cost of copper. Because of its greater resistivity, aluminium wiring requires larger conductors than copper. For instance, instead of 14 AWG (American wire gauge) copper wire, aluminium wiring would need to be 12 AWG on a typical 15 ampere lighting circuit, though local building codes vary.

Solid aluminum conductors were originally made in the 1960s from a utility grade aluminum alloy that had undesirable properties for a building wire, and were used with wiring devices intended for copper conductors.[12][13] These practices were found to cause defective connections and potential fire hazards. In the early-1970s new aluminum wire made from one of several special alloys was introduced, and all devices breakers, switches, receptacles, splice connectors, wire nuts, etc. were specially designed for the purpose. These newer aluminum wires and special designs address problems with junctions between dissimilar metals, oxidation on metal surfaces and mechanical effects that occur as different metals expand at different rates with increases in temperature.[citation needed]

Unlike copper, aluminium has a tendency to creep or cold-flow under pressure, so older plain steel screw clamped connections could become loose over time. Newer electrical devices designed for aluminum conductors have features intended to compensate for this effect. Unlike copper, aluminium forms an insulating oxide layer on the surface. This is sometimes addressed by coating aluminium conductors with an antioxidant paste (containing zinc dust in a low-residue polybutene base[14]) at joints, or by applying a mechanical termination designed to break through the oxide layer during installation.

Some terminations on wiring devices designed only for copper wire would overheat under heavy current load and cause fires when used with aluminum conductors. Revised standards for wire materials and wiring devices (such as the CO/ALR "copper-aluminium-revised" designation) were developed to reduce these problems. While larger sizes are still used to feed power to electrical panels and large devices, aluminium wiring for residential use has acquired a poor reputation and has fallen out of favour.

Aluminium conductors are still heavily used for bulk power distribution and large feeder circuits with heavy current loads, due to the various advantages they offer over copper wiring. Aluminium conductors both cost and weigh less than copper conductors, so a much larger cross sectional area can be used for the same weight and price. This can compensate for the higher resistance and lower mechanical strength of aluminum, meaning the larger cross sectional area is needed to achieve comparable current capacity and other features. Aluminium conductors must be installed with compatible connectors and special care must be taken to ensure the contact surface does not oxidise.

Insulated wires may be run in one of several forms between electrical devices. This may be a specialised bendable pipe, called a conduit, or one of several varieties of metal (rigid steel or aluminium) or non-metallic (PVC or HDPE) tubing. Rectangular cross-section metal or PVC wire troughs (North America) or trunking (UK) may be used if many circuits are required. Wires run underground may be run in plastic tubing encased in concrete, but metal elbows may be used in severe pulls. Wiring in exposed areas, for example factory floors, may be run in cable trays or rectangular raceways having lids.

Where wiring, or raceways that hold the wiring, must traverse fire-resistance rated walls and floors, the openings are required by local building codes to be firestopped. In cases where safety-critical wiring must be kept operational during an accidental fire, fireproofing must be applied to maintain circuit integrity in a manner to comply with a product's certification listing. The nature and thickness of any passive fire protection materials used in conjunction with wiring and raceways has a quantifiable impact upon the ampacity derating, because the thermal insulation properties needed for fire resistance also inhibit air cooling of power conductors.

Cable trays are used in industrial areas where many insulated cables are run together. Individual cables can exit the tray at any point, simplifying the wiring installation and reducing the labour cost for installing new cables. Power cables may have fittings in the tray to maintain clearance between the conductors, but small control wiring is often installed without any intentional spacing between cables.

Local electrical regulations may restrict or place special requirements on mixing of voltage levels within one cable tray. Good design practices may segregate, for example, low level measurement or signal cables from trays carrying high power branch circuits, to prevent induction of noise into sensitive circuits.

Since wires run in conduits or underground cannot dissipate heat as easily as in open air, and since adjacent circuits contribute induced currents, wiring regulations give rules to establish the current capacity (ampacity).

Special sealed fittings are used for wiring routed through potentially explosive atmospheres.

For very high currents in electrical apparatus, and for high currents distributed through a building, bus bars can be used. (The term "bus" is a contraction of the Latin omnibus meaning "for all".) Each live conductor of such a system is a rigid piece of copper or aluminium, usually in flat bars (but sometimes as tubing or other shapes). Open bus bars are never used in publicly accessible areas, although they are used in manufacturing plants and power company switch yards to gain the benefit of air cooling. A variation is to use heavy cables, especially where it is desirable to transpose or "roll" phases.

In industrial applications, conductor bars are often pre-assembled with insulators in grounded enclosures. This assembly, known as bus duct or busway, can be used for connections to large switchgear or for bringing the main power feed into a building. A form of bus duct known as "plug-in bus" is used to distribute power down the length of a building; it is constructed to allow tap-off switches or motor controllers to be installed at designated places along the bus. The big advantage of this scheme is the ability to remove or add a branch circuit without removing voltage from the whole duct.

Bus ducts may have all phase conductors in the same enclosure (non-isolated bus), or may have each conductor separated by a grounded barrier from the adjacent phases (segregated bus). For conducting large currents between devices, a cable bus is used.[further explanation needed]

For very large currents in generating stations or substations, where it is difficult to provide circuit protection, an isolated-phase bus is used. Each phase of the circuit is run in a separate grounded metal enclosure. The only fault possible is a phase-to-ground fault, since the enclosures are separated. This type of bus can be rated up to 50,000 amperes and up to hundreds of kilovolts (during normal service, not just for faults), but is not used for building wiring in the conventional sense.

Electrical panels are easily accessible junction boxes used to reroute and switch electrical services. The term is often used to refer to circuit breaker panels or fuseboxes. Local codes can specify physical clearance around the panels.

Rasberry crazy ants have been known to consume the insides of electrical wiring installations, preferring DC over AC currents. This behaviour is not well understood by scientists.[15]

Squirrels, rats and other rodents may gnaw on unprotected wiring, causing fire and shock hazards.[16][17] This is especially true of PVC-insulated telephone and computer network cables. Several techniques have been developed to deter these pests, including insulation loaded with pepper dust.

The first interior power wiring systems used conductors that were bare or covered with cloth, which were secured by staples to the framing of the building or on running boards. Where conductors went through walls, they were protected with cloth tape. Splices were done similarly to telegraph connections, and soldered for security. Underground conductors were insulated with wrappings of cloth tape soaked in pitch, and laid in wooden troughs which were then buried. Such wiring systems were unsatisfactory because of the danger of electrocution and fire, plus the high labour cost for such installations.The first Electrical codes arose in the 1880s with the commercial introduction of electrical power, however, many conflicting standards existed for the selection of wire sizes and other design rules for electrical installations, and a need was seen to introduce uniformity on the grounds of safety.

The earliest standardised method of wiring in buildings, in common use in North America from about 1880 to the 1930s, was knob and tube (K&T) wiring: single conductors were run through cavities between the structural members in walls and ceilings, with ceramic tubes forming protective channels through joists and ceramic knobs attached to the structural members to provide air between the wire and the lumber and to support the wires. Since air was free to circulate over the wires, smaller conductors could be used than required in cables. By arranging wires on opposite sides of building structural members, some protection was afforded against short-circuits that can be caused by driving a nail into both conductors simultaneously.

By the 1940s, the labour cost of installing two conductors rather than one cable resulted in a decline in new knob-and-tube installations. However, the US code still allows new K&T wiring installations in special situations (some rural and industrial applications).

In the United Kingdom, an early form of insulated cable,[18] introduced in 1896, consisted of two impregnated-paper-insulated conductors in an overall lead sheath. Joints were soldered, and special fittings were used for lamp holders and switches. These cables were similar to underground telegraph and telephone cables of the time. Paper-insulated cables proved unsuitable for interior wiring installations because very careful workmanship was required on the lead sheaths to ensure moisture did not affect the insulation.

A system later invented in the UK in 1908 employed vulcanised-rubber insulated wire enclosed in a strip metal sheath. The metal sheath was bonded to each metal wiring device to ensure earthing continuity.

A system developed in Germany called "Kuhlo wire" used one, two, or three rubber-insulated wires in a brass or lead-coated iron sheet tube, with a crimped seam. The enclosure could also be used as a return conductor. Kuhlo wire could be run exposed on surfaces and painted, or embedded in plaster. Special outlet and junction boxes were made for lamps and switches, made either of porcelain or sheet steel. The crimped seam was not considered as watertight as the Stannos wire used in England, which had a soldered sheath.[19]

A somewhat similar system called "concentric wiring" was introduced in the United States around 1905. In this system, an insulated electrical wire was wrapped with copper tape which was then soldered, forming the grounded (return) conductor of the wiring system. The bare metal sheath, at earth potential, was considered safe to touch. While companies such as General Electric manufactured fittings for the system and a few buildings were wired with it, it was never adopted into the US National Electrical Code. Drawbacks of the system were that special fittings were required, and that any defect in the connection of the sheath would result in the sheath becoming energised.[20]

Armoured cables with two rubber-insulated conductors in a flexible metal sheath were used as early as 1906, and were considered at the time a better method than open knob-and-tube wiring, although much more expensive.

The first rubber-insulated cables for USA building wiring were introduced in 1922 with US patent 1458803, Burley, Harry & Rooney, Henry, "Insulated electric wire", issued 1923-06-12, assigned to Boston Insulated Wire And Cable.[citation needed] These were two or more solid copper electrical wires with rubber insulation, plus woven cotton cloth over each conductor for protection of the insulation, with an overall woven jacket, usually impregnated with tar as a protection from moisture. Waxed paper was used as a filler and separator.

Over time, rubber-insulated cables become brittle because of exposure to atmospheric oxygen, so they must be handled with care and are usually replaced during renovations. When switches, socket outlets or light fixtures are replaced, the mere act of tightening connections may cause hardened insulation to flake off the conductors. Rubber insulation further inside the cable often is in better condition than the insulation exposed at connections, due to reduced exposure to oxygen.

The sulphur in vulcanised rubber insulation attacked bare copper wire so the conductors were tinned to prevent this. The conductors reverted to being bare when rubber ceased to be used.

About 1950, PVC insulation and jackets were introduced, especially for residential wiring. About the same time, single conductors with a thinner PVC insulation and a thin nylon jacket (e.g. US Type THN, THHN, etc.) became common.[citation needed]

The simplest form of cable has two insulated conductors twisted together to form a unit. Such un-jacketed cables with two (or more) conductors are used only for extra low voltage signal and control applications such as doorbell wiring.

Other methods of securing wiring that are now obsolete include:

Metal moulding systems, with a flattened oval section consisting of a base strip and a snap-on cap channel, were more costly than open wiring or wooden moulding, but could be easily run on wall surfaces. Similar surface mounted raceway wiring systems are still available today.

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Electrical wiring - Wikipedia

House wrap or sheathing insulation board that helps insulate and level out the exterior of a house is recommended.

Some manufacturers strongly recommend against the use of drop-in type foam or fiberboard behind its vinyl siding. This type of insulation may change and flatten the specialty built-in contour of the panel, causing the siding to bulge or ripple.

1. Snap chalk line.Find the lowest corner of the old siding or sheathing on the house. Partly drive a nail 11/2 in. higher than the lowest corner. Stretch a chalk line from this nail to a similar nail at next corner. Be sure line is level. Snap chalk line and repeat same procedure around entire house.

2. Installing starter strip.Position starter strip with the top edge of chalk line and allow room for corner posts. Nail to wall, following nailing instructions in Important Installation Tips. When the wall surface is uneven, shim out the starter strip to avoid a wavy appearance in the finished siding job. Drive nails to remove excessive play in starter, but do not nail tightly restricting movement. As you add starter strip sections, be sure to leave 1/4 in. space between strips for expansion [fig. D]

3. Installing inside corner posts.Inside corner posts are installed at the existing corners, running from 3/4 in. below the bottom of the starter strip. If vinyl soffit is to be installed, allow proper distance below the underside of eaves for soffit installation accessories (which vary according to the accessory used). Set corner posts straight and true. Nail them to the adjoining walls, beginning at the top, placing nails at the top of the uppermost nailing slots, allowing the posts to hang on these nails. The rest of the nails should be placed every 8 in. to 12 in. in the center of the nail slots. This will allow vertical expansion of the corner posts. Do not nail tight.

4. Splicing inside corner posts.If more than one length of inside corner post is required, make a splice as follows: Cut 1 in. off all but the outer face of the upper portion of the lower corner post. Then lay 3/4 in. of the upper post over the lower post, allowing 1/4 in. for expansion [fig. E].

5. Installing outside corner posts.Position the outside corner post to allow 1/4 in. gap at the top where the post will meet the eaves. Cut the post long enough to extend past the bottom of the starter strip by 3/4 in. If vinyl soffit is to be installed, allow proper distances (which vary according to the accessory used) below the underside of the eaves. Attach the posts by placing a nail in the top of the upper slot on each side. Posts will hang on these two nails. The rest of the nails should be placed in the center of the slots, 8 in. to 12 in. on center. This allows for expansion and contraction to occur at the bottom. Do not nail tight.

6. Splicing outside corner posts.If more than one length of outside corner post is required, make a splice as follows: cut 1 in. of the nailing flanges and receiving channel stops away from the bottom portion of the upper post. Then lap 3/4 in. of the upper post over the lower post allowing 1/4 in. for expansion [fig. F].

7. Capping outside corner posts.Cut 2 1/2 in. flaps as shown in Fig. G. Bend the flaps to close off the post. A rivet can be used if needed.

8. Installing J channel around windows and doors.Install J channel around all four sides of window and doors. Install the J channel against the casing and nail it to the wall, following nailing instructions in Important Installation Tips. Do not nail tight. [fig. H].

9. Square corner J channel installation.Cut and install bottom J flush with the sides of the window casing. Install side J channels flush with the lower face of the bottom J channel and with the top of the window casing. Cut a tab in the bottom of the side J channels and fold under. Cut and install top J flush with the outer face of the side Js. Cut and bend drain tab.

10. Mitering corners of the J channel.Install bottom J channel to extend past side casing the width of the J-face on each end. Cut out a 3/4 in. notch in the back of each end and install. Cut a 3/4 in. notch in the bottom of side J channels and bend tab. Miter bottom side J to give a false mitered appearance when installed.

11. Installing first siding panel.Snap bottom of panel into starter strip and nail to wall as in Important Installation Tips. Begin panel installation at back corner of house and work toward house front. Leave a 1/4 in. space where panel butts corner post. Note: siding should be lapped away from high traffic areas, i.e., doors, sidewalks, etc.

12. Overlap joints.Overlap each panel 1 in. to 11/4 in. of the factory prenotched cutouts. Last nail should be at least 10 in. from end of panel to allow neat lap.

13. Installing balance of siding.After completing the first course, work your way up. Start each course at back of house and continue toward front. Stagger joints properly, lapping them away from street and entrance. Leave a 1/4 in. gap where panels butt corner posts and J channel around window. Allow 3/8 in. when installing in freezing weather (below 40) [fig. I]. Note: For best visual appearance, do not stair step or concentrate lap joints too closely.

14. Fitting siding under windows.When you reach a window, you probably will have to cut siding panel to fit under the opening. Make this panel extend on both sides of the window. Measure the panel to fit. Holding the siding panel under the window, mark the width of the opening on the panel allowing 1/4 in. clearance on each window side. Next, lock a scrap piece of siding into the panel below, butting against the window. Mark the height needed, allowing 1/4 in. clearance below the sill. Measure both sides of the window opening this way. Use the scrap piece as a guide to mark horizontal cuts on the siding panel [fig. J].

15. Cutting siding to fit.Make vertical cuts on the siding panel with saw or snips. Then score horizontally with a utility knife and snap out section to be removed.

16. Cutting siding around window.Install undersill trim the width of the window flush to the casing. Furring may be necessary to maintain proper pitch of the siding. Using the snap-lock punch, punch the panel 1/4 in. below the cut edge at 6 in. intervals. The resulting raised lugs should face outward and will snap into undersill trim.

17. Fitting siding over windows.Measure and cut panel to fit. Measure and cut panel in the same manner detailed in step 14 but cut lower portion instead of top. Be sure to check both sides for proper fit. Install panel. Drop siding panel into J channel around top of window and install.

18. Finishing top row of siding under eaves.Nail the undersill trim to the sidewall, flush with the eave of house. It may be necessary to fur out the undersill trim to maintain proper pitch of the top siding panel. More than one length of undersill trim may be required under the eave and will need to be spliced.

19. Fitting top siding panel.Measure and cut top panel to fit. To determine how much of the top panel must be cut off, measure the distance between the top of under-sill trim and the lock of the panel below, then deduct 1/4 in. Cut top siding panel to this dimension. The panel will no longer have a nailing strip after cutting [fig. K].

20. Snap locking top panel.Punch top panel with snap-lock punch. Insert cut panel into trim and draw a line on panel where they meet. Usingsnap-lock punch tool, punch the panel on top of this lineevery 6 in. so raised material is on the outside face.

21. Installing top panel.Lock bottom of panel into panel below and push top edge into undersill trim. The raised slots will catch and hold the panel firmly in place. DO NOT FACE NAIL SIDING.

22. Finishing top course under gable.First nail J channel to sidewall flush with gable as described in Important Installation Tips. If more than one length of J channel is required to finish one side of gable, a splice will be needed. To cut panels on proper angle, use two scrap pieces of siding to make a pattern for cutting. Interlock one panel with the siding panel below, hold the other piece on top against the gable. Then mark a line on bottom piece and cut. This piece is now a pattern for cutting panels to fit along one side of gable. Follow the same procedure to make pattern for other side [fig. L]. Lock pre-cut siding panel into siding panel below and slide siding panel into J channel.

Read more:
Install Vinyl Siding - Lowe's Home Improvement

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10' x 14'

Angled Roof

All-Season

5/5 Stars

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10' x 14'

Enclosed

Polished Wood

2/5 Stars

Palermo

12' x 12'

Most Popular

Classic Design

4.5/5 Stars

Riverstone

12' x 12'

Natural Framework

Multiple Colors

N/A Stars

Sojag

12' x 12'

Thick Legs

Large Roof

5/5 Stars

Castel

12' x 14'

Sliding Doors

Classy Vibe

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Penguin

12' x 14'

Best Value

Easy Assembly

3.5/5 Stars

Sojag

12' x 14'

Classic Design

Nice Curtains Incl.

3.5/5 Stars

Messina

12' x 16'

Best Seller

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Hardtop Gazebos: Best 2018 Choices, Sorted by Size

All About HVAC Replacement

An HVAC system is one of the most hard working units in residential homes. No matter the type of system currently installed in your home, there comes a time when the unit needs to be replaced. This may be due to the age of the unit, damage that is beyond repair, or youve decided to upgrade to a larger or more energy efficient system, or downgrade to a smaller system to provide more in-depth coverage.

HVAC is an acronym for heating, ventilation and air conditioning so, when you are considering replacing your current system, there is more than one area to think about.

By asking the right questions before replacing, youll be better informed about what to expect when selecting a system that can handle the needs of your homes square footage.

Knowledge is power and when it comes to selecting the right HVAC system, you want to be armed with a complete set of information. With this comprehensive list of things to cover before making a decision about your HVAC system, you wont be in the dark about the direction you should take to supply adequate coverage for your home.

It is recommended when replacing one part of the system, whether the compressor or the air handler, to update both systems and, at a minimum, have the ductwork inspected in case it needs replacing. Although only one part of your system may need replacing, its recommended that you replace the entire system to maintain maximum system efficiency. Replacing the entire system means spending more money upfront but youll save money in the long run because your entire system will be in sync.

It may be time to upgrade or downsize in order to get the optimum in heating and cooling. For example, if your current system is too large for the square footage of your home, regulating the temperature and the humidity level will be difficult,resulting in higher energy costs. On the reverse side, a system that is too small for the square footage of your home cant produce the right temperature levels especially during extreme hot or cold weather.

It is necessary to figure out the load capacity needed for your home. With the expert help of a contractor, the calculation will provide the information necessary to choose the right size equipment as well as the amount of air that needs to be distributed to each room.

There are a few basic things to consider when shopping for a new system whether youre replacing a heat pump using a back-up furnace or boiler, or a split-system heat pump powered by electricity.

Two main points are cost and efficiency determined by standard ratings.

As noted, a licensed contractor is a requirement fora home air conditioninginstallation. You hire a certified professional for two good reasons. First, the contractor is responsible for determining the load capacity necessary to adequately heat and cool your home. The contractor will do the calculations to determine the size of the unit needed as well as the distribution of the air to cover each room.

Second, once the size is determined, the contractor will suggest types of systems, explain how each works, help you make the right choice, and then do the installation.

Here are a few tips to help you hire the right contractor for your HVAC replacement project.

Once the list of contractors has set an appointment to check your home and provided estimates, take the next step in ensuring each contractor is legitimate by doing a background check with the Better Business Bureau (BBB.) The bureau will have information about issues, complaints, or law suits on file and readily available for you to read.

If youre replacing the HVAC system, a major goal of the unit should be conserving energy and cutting costs. Not only do you want a HVAC system that accommodates the square footage of your home, you want it to do so without unnecessary stress and strain. This means, tuning up your home to reduce the cost of running the system. Improvements can include easy do-it-yourself projects such as caulking cracks around windows and doors, sealing crevices around the door frame, addressing gaps at door thresholds, and insulation.

With your home tight and secure from incoming drafts or from loss of heat or cold, its possible you can have a smaller HVAC system installed.

Unless you have the credentials and the proper license, the answer is no. Installing, repairing, or replacing a HVAC system requires the knowledge, know-how, and applicable license do to the job properly. Depending on the state you live in, at a minimum, a building permit is a requirement before a replacement HVAC is installed. If you need a permit and fail to comply, it can cost you monetarily in fines as well as the unit being removed and reinstalled by a licensed contractor who applies for and receives a building permit.

Like any major appliance, maintenance is required to keep it running smoothly and efficiently. With a HVAC system, there are a few things, you as the homeowner, can do that dont require any technical knowledge or experience.

Regardless of the reason for replacing a HVAC system, it is a big investment. To receive the best return of investment, replacing a current unit with one that is of equal or better standing in terms of SEER and HSPF ratings will save you money. Along with the right HVAC system designed to fit your needs, having the unit installed and maintained by a qualified professional will also save you money and energy.

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Home HVAC Replacement - Modernize

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Whether residential, commercial or industrial, we strive to be in first place. Quality workmanship is our first goal and always has been. We like to think we set a standard in this industry throughout the tri-state area.

Air Conditioning, Heating, Furnaces, Heat Pumps, Boilers, Hot Water Heaters, Repair, Sales and Installation of all Brands. Over $250,000 In Parts Inventory.

Serving these locations: New York City, Manhattan only 10001, 10002, 10003, 10004, 10005, 10006, 10007, 10008, 10009, 10010, 10011, 10012, 10013, 10014, 10016, 10017, 10018, 10019, 10020, 10021, 10022, 10023, 10024, 10025, 10026, 10027, 10029, 10038, 10048. Hoboken, Jersey City, Weehawken, Secaucus, Bayonne, Union City, North Bergen, Guttenberg, West New York, Edgewater.

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New England HVAC Services - Hoboken, NJ and New York

Project: Landscape Yard or Gardens

Date: 06/2018

Request Stage: Ready to Hire

Desired Completion Date: Within 1 week

Project: Landscape Yard or Gardens

Date: 06/2018

Design Preparation: Need design/plant suggestions

Landscaping to be installed: Grass, Wooden structures (deck, gazebo, etc.), Landscape lighting

Request Stage: Ready to Hire

Desired Completion Date: 1 - 2 weeks

Project: Install Sod

Date: 05/2018

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Size of area needing sod: Small (Less than 1,000 sq ft)

Request Stage: Ready to Hire

Desired Completion Date: Timing is flexible

Project: Landscape Yard or Gardens

Date: 05/2018

Design Preparation: Have a basic idea of what I want

Landscaping to be installed: Grass, Trees/Shrubs

Desired Project Start Date: Tomorrow

Comment: Basic cut grass and trim shrub

Project: Landscape Yard or Gardens

Date: 05/2018

Design Preparation: Have a basic idea of what I want

Landscaping to be installed: Grass, Trees/Shrubs, Drainage system, Concrete flatwork (patio, walkway, etc.), Storage shed

Areas to be Landscaped: Back yard

Historical Work: No

Property Owner: Yes

Desired Project Start Date: Within a few weeks

Comment: I need to remove an existing concrete patio, shed and large laundry pole. I'd like to add a paver patio, trees along the back fence, a new concrete slab for a new pre-built shed and either re-seed or sod the rest of the yard. Yard is roughly 25' x 30', fenced in. Can provide pictures.

Project: Landscape Yard or Gardens

Date: 04/2018

Approximately how many square feet is the yard?: Not sure

Design Preparation: Have a basic idea of what I want

Landscaping to be installed: Masonry (brick and/or stone work)

What kind of location is this?: Home / Residence

Request Stage: Planning & Budgeting

Desired Completion Date: Timing is flexible

Historical Work: No

Property Owner: Yes

Comment: I need to put stone or fake grass in m y front yard in land scrap erea

Project: Landscape Yard or Gardens

Date: 04/2018

Approximately how many square feet is the yard?: Medium Area (500 - 1000 sq ft)

Design Preparation: Need design/plant suggestions

Landscaping to be installed: Grass, Trees/Shrubs, Drainage system, Concrete flatwork (patio, walkway, etc.), Storage shed

What kind of location is this?: Home / Residence

Request Stage: Ready to Hire

Desired Completion Date: Timing is flexible

Historical Work: No

Property Owner: Yes

Comment: We need to remove an existing shed and concrete patio. Then we would like to replace the shed with a pre-built Rubbermaid shed and the patio with pavers. Additionally, we need to put drainage around the perimeter of the yard, as it floods regularly. The grass is pretty much dead, so sod will need to be placed.

Project: Install Sod

Date: 04/2018

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Size of area needing sod: Small (Less than 1,000 sq ft)

Grading required: Yes

Old surface removal: Old grass or weeds

Property Owner: Yes

Desired Project Start Date: Within a few weeks

Comment: It is our backyard and the area where we want good quality sod is about 575 sq ft.

Project: Landscape Yard or Gardens

Date: 04/2018

Design Preparation: Have a basic idea of what I want

Landscaping to be installed: Grass, Trees/Shrubs, Drainage system, Concrete flatwork (patio, walkway, etc.), Storage shed

Areas to be Landscaped: Back yard

Historical Work: No

Property Owner: Yes

Desired Project Start Date: Unsure about timing

Comment: Remove existing shed, concrete patio & laundry pole. Drainage around perimeter of property. New shed, new paver patio, grass, and trees at rear fence.

Project: Install Sod

Date: 03/2018

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Desired Project Start Date: Tomorrow

Comment: Laying out sod

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17 Best Landscaping Companies - Secaucus NJ | Landscapers

Sure, retaining walls look like simple stacked stone, block, or timber. But in fact, they're carefully engineered systems that wage an ongoing battle with gravity. They restrain tons of saturated soil that would otherwise slump and slide away from a foundation or damage the surrounding landscape. These handsome barriers also make inviting spots to sit, and can increase usable yard space by terracing sloped properties, something that is increasingly important as flat home sites become ever more scarce in many regions.

Along with sloped landscapes where water runoff causes hillside erosion, ideal locations for a retaining wall include spots downhill from soil fault lines and where the downhill side of a foundation is losing supporting soil or its uphill side is under pressure from sliding soil.

If your property needs a retaining wall, or if the one you have is failing, review these descriptions of the four most common types: timber; interlocking blocks; stacked stone, brick or block; and concrete.

Common ProblemsAlthough retaining walls are simple structures, a casual check around your neighborhood will reveal lots of existing walls that are bulging, cracked, or leaning. That's because most residential retaining walls have poor drainage, and many aren't built to handle the hillside they're supposed to hold back.

Even small retaining walls have to contain enormous loads. A 4-foot-high, 15-foot-long wall could be holding back as much as 20 tons of saturated soil. Double the wall height to 8 feet, and you would need a wall that's eight times stronger to do the same job. With forces like these in play, you should limit your retaining wall efforts to walls under 4 feet tall (3 feet for mortarless stone). If you need a taller wall, consider step-terracing the lot with two walls half as big, or call in a landscape architect or structural engineer for the design work (have the architect or engineer inspect the site thoroughly) and experienced builders for the installation.

If you have your retaining wall built, figure about $15 per square face foot for a timber wall, $20 for an interlocking-block system or poured concrete, and $25 for a natural-stone wall. Preparing a troublesome siteone that includes clay soil or a natural spring, for examplecan raise costs substantially. Add 10 percent or so if you hire a landscape architect or engineer. But shop around; some landscape firms do the design work for free if they do the installation.

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Engineering a Retaining Wall | This Old House

How soil pushes (and how to build a retaining wall that pushes back)

When you contemplatehow to build aretaining wall a retain wall design, you may imagine how firm and solid itll appear from the front, or how great the new garden will look above it. But unless you give serious thought to what goes on behind and below the wall, it may not look good for long. A poorly built wall can lean, separate, even toppleand its out there in plain sight where all your neighbors can point and snicker. You dont want that!

Lots of people think a retaining wall needs to hold back all 6 gazillion tons of soil in the yard behind it. It doesnt. It only needs to retain a wedge of soil, or elongated wedge of soil, similar to that shown in Fig. A. In simple terms (our apologies to all you soil engineers out there): Undisturbed soilsoil that has lain untouched and naturally compacted for thousands of yearshas a maximum slope beyond which it wont hang together on its own. This slope is called the failure plane. If left alone, the soil behind the failure plane will stay put on its own. But the soil in front of the failure planethe natural soil or the fill youre going to addwants to slide down the failure plane.

Gravity, along with the slope, directs most of the weight and pressure of the fill toward the lower part of the retaining wall. Since soil weighs a beefy 100-plus lbs. per cu. ft., you need some pretty heavy materiallarge retaining wall blocks, boulders, timbers or poured concreteto counteract the pressure. Just as important, it needs to be installed the right way. Here are three key principles in building any solid retaining wall:

A retaining wall needs to retain all the material that fills the space between itself and the failure planethe steepest angle at which existing soil can hold itself together before caving in.

Water can weaken retaining walls by washing out the base material that supports the wall (Fig. E). But far more frequently, it causes problems by building up behind the wall, saturating the soil and applying incredible pressure. Thats when walls start leaning, bulging and toppling. Well built walls are constructed and graded to prevent water from getting behind the wall and to provide a speedy exit route for water that inevitably weasels its way in.

Take a look at the well-drained wall in Fig. D. The sod and topsoil are almost even with the top block, so surface water flows over the top rather than puddling behind. Just below that is 8 to 12 in. of packed impervious soil to help prevent water from seeping behind the wall. The gravel below that soil gives water that does enter a fast route to the drain tile. And the perforated drain tile collects the water and directs it away from the base of the wall, escorting it out through its open ends. Theres nothing to prevent water from seeping out between the faces of the blocks, either; that helps with the drainage too. The wall even has porous filter fabric to prevent soil from clogging up the gravel. What youre looking at is a well-drained wall that will last a long time.

Now look at the poorly drained wall in Fig. E. Theres a dip in the lawn that collects water near the top of the wall. Theres no impervious soil, so the water heads south, slowly waterlogging and increasing the weight of the soil packed behind the wall. The homeowner put plastic against the back of the wall to prevent soil from oozing out between the cracksbut its also holding water in. Yikes! Theres no drain tile at the bottomthe trapped water can soak, soften and erode the base material. Not only that, an excavated trench that extends below the base lets water soak into the base material and weaken it. Youve got a retaining wall that has to hold back tons and tons of water and saturated soiland when that water freezes and expands in the winter, matters get even worse.

A strong retaining wall design features well-compacted base material, compacted material in front of the wall to prevent kick-out, and stepped-back materials.

A wall that has an uneven base, no compacted material in front of it and no step-back to the materials will eventually fail.

Even if you have only a small wedge of soil to retain like that shown in Fig. A, compaction is important. If your failure plane is farther back so your wall needs to retain more fill, weight and pressure, then compaction and a reinforcing grid become critical. These two things help increase internal friction and direct the pressure of the fill you add downward (Fig. F), rather than at an angle pushing against the wall. Good compaction doesnt mean dumping a couple of feet of fill behind the wall, then jumping up and down on it in your work boots.

Nope, good compaction means adding 3 or 4 in. of material, compacting it with a heavy, noisy vibrating plate tamper from your friendly neighborhood rental yard, then repeating these steps over and over. Your landscape supplier or block manufacturer (if youre using modular blocks) can tell you whether you need to install reinforcing grid, and at what intervals. The taller the wall, the more likely youll need reinforcing grid.

When building a retaining wall, never backfill with, or compact, topsoil; it will break down and settle, creating a water-welcoming trench behind your wall. Use sandy or gravelly materials, which compact much better. And always make certain you dont become overzealous and compact your wall outward.

From top to bottom, a well-built wall either prevents water from getting behind the wall or ushers it away quickly when it does.

Water trapped behind a wall pushes against it and increases the weight of the soil, which also pushes against it.

By themselves, landscape timbers and a railroad tie retaining wall lack the weight to hold back soil. To make these walls strong, you need to add deadmen, anchors that lock the wall into the soil behind them (Fig. G). The same pressure thats pushing against the wall pushes down on the deadmen to keep them (and therefore the wall) in place. The principles of stepping back, installing good drainage and compacting also apply to timber walls.

Walls of any material that are taller than 4 ft. play by the same rulesits just that the wedge of soil is too big and heavy to be held in place by the weight of the materials alone. Some communities now require building permits and construction details for walls exceeding 4 ft. in height. We think thats a good idea too. Many modular block manufacturers can supply printed sheets of structural information.

For tall slopes, a series of tiered walls is a good substitute for a single tall wall. But an upper tier can apply pressure to a lower tier unless its spaced the proper distanceyou know, behind the failure plane. The rule of thumb is to set back the upper wall twice the height of the lower wall.

Compacting backfill in 3- to 4-in. layers and installing a reinforcement grid directs pressure downward, rather than against the wall.

A deadman helps anchor a timber wall in place when building a retaining wall. The same pressure thats pushing against the wall is pushing and holding the deadmanand therefore the wallin place.

Have the necessary tools for this DIY how to build a retaining wall project lined up before you startyoull save time and frustration.

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time for this how to build a retaining wall project. Heres a list.

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How to Build a Retaining Wall Stronger | Family Handyman

We look forward to assisting you and are positive that you will be more than satisfied with the services we have to offer.

When it comes to carpet installation you need to ensure that the company you are dealing with can offer you a reliable service to guarantee minimum down time of installation with a high quality finish.We provide quality wooden flooring finishes and a range of high quality internationally recognized wooden flooring solutions. Whether you need laminate flooring or under floor heating, we are here to help you.If you are looking for a reliable vinyl flooring supplier then Absolut Carpets can also help with this. Not only can we provide you with high quality vinyl flooring options but we can assure you that the installation of these products is done by absolute professionals.Whether it be carpets, wooden floors or vinyl floors that you require, we are delighted to inform you that you have found the best partner for the job.

Please contact us to speak to a friendly consultant that will assist you with your Enquiry.

Our office hours are between 08.00 to 19.00 weekdays & 08.30 to 11.30 on Saturdays.Our highly trained reps go out to appointments between 10.00 to 19.00 on Mondays to Fridays and 08.00 to 13.00 on Saturdays and public holidays.

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Supplier of Carpets, Wooden Flooring & Laminate Flooring

Installing wall-to-wall carpet isn't rocket science. By using some specialized tools (available at most tool rental outlets) and being prepared to take your time, it can even be a DIY job.

Your first step is to get rid of the old carpet. Start by removing the moldings around the floor and taking the door off the entrance so you can get the old carpet up and out easily. Give the old carpet a good vacuuming so you won't be breathing in dust as you pull it up, and then use a utility knife to cut the carpet into strips about 18 to 24 inches wide.

Start at one end and pull the carpet off of the tackless strips and roll it up in sections. Some people feel that you can reuse the existing underlay, but in most cases it will be worn out just like the carpet, so you're better off getting rid of it as well.

Remove the existing tackless strips and make sure the floor is clean and dry. This is a good time to check your subfloor and securely fasten any floorboards that may be loose so they won't squeak under the new carpet (use 1 1/2-inch screws into the underlying floor joists).

Install new tackless strips around the perimeter of the room, but not in front of doorways. Leave a space of about half an inch between the strips and the wall, and be sure the pins or tacks face towards the wall. (They're called tackless strips even though they have two or three rows or very sharp tacks, because using these "tackless strips" means you don't need to "tack" carpet down.) At corners, make sure the tackless strips are butted tightly against each other.

Put the underpad down in strips that overlap the tackless strips. Butt the strips against each otherdon't overlap themthen staple the underlay down along the inside edge of the tackless strip. Trim the excess underlay along the inside of the tackless strip and use duct tape to seal the seams.

A wall-to-wall carpet will shrink and expand with changes in temperature and air pressure. If you bring a carpet in from outside and install it right away, as the carpet adjusts to the conditions inside your home it may stretch and shrink away from the tackless strips, or may expand toward the walls and wrinkle and buckle in the middle. To prevent this, allow the new carpet to rest, uninstalled, in the room for at least 24 hours. It will adjust to your conditions and remain true to the dimensions you cut it to.

To install carpet properly, you need to start with a piece that overlaps the edge of the floor by four to six inches. The overlay can then be trimmed so the carpet fits properly. To cut your first section, measure the room at its longest point and add six inches to that measurement. Mark the back of your carpet on both edges with that measurement and join the two marks with a chalk line. Fold the carpet over on itself, and using a straight edge and a sharp utility knife, cut through the backside of your carpet. Be sure to place a piece of scrap board underneath your cut line to protect the underlying carpet.

If your room is wide enough that you're going to need another piece of carpet, follow the same process with the second piecemeasure, mark, and trim. Before you cut, be sure the carpet pile is running the same way in both pieces, and that the carpet piece is large enough to overlap the wall by four to six inches, as well as overlapping the first piece of carpet by four to six inches. Try to lay out your carpet pieces so the seams won't be in noticeable areas even if sometimes that just isn't possible.

Where the carpet pieces will join, overlap the two pieces, and then using a utility knife or a rented seam cutter, cut through both pieces of carpet, ensuring the edges will match exactly. After cutting the carpet, center a piece of seaming tape on the floor underneath where they join, adhesive side up. Use the seaming iron to activate the adhesive (the iron goes on the tape, not on top of the carpet), and then butt the edges together and seal the seam with a rolling pin or a carpet roller.

Use a knee kicker to attach the carpet along one edge. A knee kicker is a solid metal tool about 18 inches long with "teeth" that will grip the carpet on one end, and a heavily padded "butt" on the other. Place the toothed end of the kicker about three inches from the wall and drive your knee forcefully into the padded end of the tool. This will stretch the carpet over the tackless strip where the tacks will grab it and hold it firmly in place.

A carpet stretcher will finish attaching the carpet. A carpet stretcher is similar to knee kicker, but much longer. Put one end of the carpet stretcher against the wall where the carpet is already attached and place the other end about six inches from the far wall. The carpet stretcher also has teeth to grip the carpet, and when you push on the activation lever, it will stretch the carpet over the tackless strip near the far wall.

Work your way around the room stretching the carpet over the tackless strips, and trim the carpet near the wall with a utility knife or a wall trimmer.

Using a stair tool, tuck the carpet down into the gap between the tackless strips and the wall. At the doorway, trim the carpet so the edge is centered under the closed door and install a door edge strip. Finally, cut any vent openings and reinstall the molding on the baseboards.

That's it. Stretch your back, check to see if your knees still work, and then take some time to admire what all your hard work has accomplished.

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How to Install Carpet | DoItYourself.com