Home Builder Developer - Interior Renovation and Design

ID:15562 Truck Trailer Service Technician (310J) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15563 Truck and Coach Technician (310T) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15464 Gas Technician (636G) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15559 Auto Body Repairer (310B) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15546 Auto Body Repairer (310B) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15547 Auto Body Repairer (310B) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15560 Automotive Service Technician (310S) GTA/Central Ontario

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ID:15507 Industrial Electrician (442A) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15537 Tool & Die Maker (430A) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15538 General Machinist (429A) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15539 Industrial Mechanic Millwright (433A) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15536 Industrial Mechanic Millwright (433A) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15528 Industrial Mechanic Millwright (433A) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15510 Tool & Die Maker (430A) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15530 General Machinist (429A) Western Ontario

ID:15531 Machine Tool Builder & Integrator (430M) Western Ontario

ID:15509 Automotive Service Technician (310S) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15504 Automotive Service Technician (310S) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15516 Automotive Service Technician (310S) Southwest Ontario

ID:15511 Automotive Service Technician (310S) Western Ontario

ID:15561 Automotive Service Technician (310S) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15558 Automotive Service Technician (310S) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15496 Automotive Service Technician (310S) Southwest Ontario

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ID:15545 Sheet Metal Worker (308A) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15533 Carpenter (general) (403A) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15541 Electrician (Construction & Maintenance) (309A) Southwest Ontario

ID:15527 Cement Mason (419A) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15524 Sheet Metal Worker (308A) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15529 Construction Millwright (426A) Western Ontario

ID:15526 Brick and Stone Mason (401A) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15533 Carpenter (general) (403A) Eastern/Northern Ontario

ID:15542 Electrician (Construction & Maintenance) (309A) Western Ontario

ID:15550 Plumber (306A) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15564 Carpenter (general) (403A) Southwest Ontario

ID:15542 Electrician (Construction & Maintenance) (309A) Southwest Ontario

ID:15554 Brick and Stone Mason (401A) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15549 Carpenter (general) (403A) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15553 Sheet Metal Worker (308A) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15555 Carpenter (general) (403A) Southwest Ontario

ID:15499 Drywall Finisher and Plasterer (453A) Western Ontario

ID:15495 Electrician (Construction & Maintenance) (309A) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15502 Sheet Metal Worker (308A) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15503 Refrigeration and AC Mechanic (313A) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15556 Machine Tool Builder & Integrator (430M) Western Ontario

ID:15557 Industrial Electrician (442A) Western Ontario

ID:15483 Sheet Metal Worker (308A) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15465 Plumber (306A) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15501 Plumber (306A) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15518 Drywall Finisher and Plasterer (453A) Western Ontario

ID:15519 Electrician (Construction & Maintenance) (309A) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15522 Electrician (Construction & Maintenance) (309A) Western Ontario

ID:15523 Carpenter (general) (403A) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15506 Electrician (Construction & Maintenance) (309A) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15500 Carpenter (general) (403A) GTA/Central Ontario

ID:15519 Electrician (Construction & Maintenance) (309A) Niagara & Area

ID:15519 Electrician (Construction & Maintenance) (309A) Western Ontario

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Step 1: Planning the projectCompleted rain gutter

Almost all home centers and full-service hardware stores sell guttering that is designed primarily for easy installation. But with just a little bit more work, you can use these same parts to put together rain gutters and downspouts that are stronger and better looking too.

Evaluate and plan the projectGutter replacement, which involves installing your own rain gutters can save you substantially over professionally installed gutters, but there are a few pitfalls to watch out for. Inspect the fascia and soffit (Fig. B) for signs of rotted wood, which will need to be replaced before you put up the rain gutters. Many houses have a trim board or crown molding nailed to the fascia just under the shingles. Youll have to either remove this as we did or add a continuous strip of wood under it to create a flat plane for the gutters. In either case, prime and paint bare wood before you hang the gutters.

Fig. A shows an example of a rain gutter system for a typical house. Record the length of the rain gutter runs and mark the downspout locations. Then count up the inside and outside corners and end caps (note whether they are right or left ends). Measure the height of downspouts and add 4 ft. to each for the extension away from the house at the bottom. Each downspout requires three elbows. There are two types of elbows that turn either to the front or side of the downspout. Most installations require only front elbows, but occasionally you may need a side elbow, usually to turn the downspout extension sideways. Here are a few planning tips:

Cut the front and back sides with tin snips. Bend the gutter and cut the bottom.

Cut a 2-in. long notch in the front lip of the gutter with tin snips to join a rain gutter section with an inside or outside corner piece. (Cut a 4-in. long notch to overlap and splice together gutter sections.)

Lay a bead of gutter sealant along the corner 1-1/2 in. back from the edge. Hook the front lip of the corner over the notched section of gutter and snap it over the gutter.

Join the gutter to the corner with six rivets in the locations shown. Start by drilling a 1/8-in. hole (for 1/8-in. rivets) at the front of the gutter and installing the first rivet with the rivet gun. Now drill the remaining holes and install the rivets.

Caulk the seam on the inside of the rain gutter with gutter sealant. Put a dab of sealant over each rivet.

Preassemble before installing guttersIts much easier to join sections on the ground than to work from the top of a ladder. Photos 1 8 show how. Instead of butting parts together and covering the joints with a seam cover as recommended by the manufacturer, lap all seams from 2 to 4 in. Then caulk and rivet them together (Photos 3 5). Weve shown joining a gutter section to a corner. Use the same process to join two sections of gutter, except overlap the pieces at least 4 in. When youre splicing gutter sections, plan ahead to leave the best-looking factory-cut end on the outside if possible. Also lap the rain gutters so the inside section is facing downhill to prevent water from being forced out the seam.

Where a gutter ends, cut it to extend about an inch past the end of the fascia board to catch water from the overhanging shingles. Then attach an end cap with rivets and seal the joint from the inside with gutter sealant.

Mark the center of the downspout outlet on the bottom of the gutter. Center the outlet, flange side down, over the mark and trace around the inside. Cut a V-shaped notch with an old chisel as a starting hole for the tin snips. Place two short scraps of 24 side by side under the gutter to support it while you chisel the notch.

Cut out the outlet hole with offset tin snips. Red tin snips cut counterclockwise. Green snips cut clockwise. Either one will work. Cut 1/16 in. outside the line.

Slip the outlet into the hole and predrill 1/8-in. holes for the rivets. Remove the outlet and run a bead of gutter sealant around the opening. Press the outlet into the caulked opening and install the rivets.

Cut in downspout tubes at each downspout location

First measure from the corner of the house to the center of your chosen downspout location. Double-check for obstructions. Transfer this dimension to the gutter and cut in a downspout outlet (Photos 6 8). This method takes a few minutes longer than using one of the short gutter sections with a preinstalled outlet, but it eliminates two seams and looks much neater. You can make this cutout with a duckbill tin snips, but a special offset snips like were using (available from hardware stores and home centers) is much easier for beginners.

When installing gutters, set the proper slope by driving a nail 1/2 in. below the shingles on the high side of the gutter run. Measure and record the distance from the bottom of the fascia board to this nail. Subtract 1/4 in. for every 10 ft. of gutter from this measurement and mark this distance at the low end of the gutter run. Drive a nail at this mark and stretch a chalk line between the two nails. Align a level with the string to check the slope. The bubble should be off-center toward the high side. If its not, adjust the string until the bubble indicates that you have the proper slope. Finally, snap the string to mark a line on the fascia board.

Drive 1-1/4 in. stainless steel hex head sheet metal screws through the back of the gutter into the fascia. Install one screw every 2 ft.

A little slope is all you need

The number and size of downspouts determines how fast your gutters will empty. Sloping them helps eliminate standing water that can cause corrosion and leak through the seams. Slope each gutter run down toward the downspout about 1/4 in. for every 10 ft. of gutter. If your fascia boards are level, you can use them as a reference for sloping the gutters. Check this by holding a level against the bottom edge. If they arent level, adjust the string line until a level aligned with it shows a slight slope (Photo 9). Snap a chalk line to indicate the top of the gutter. Then straighten gutter sections as you screw them to the fascia by aligning the top edge with the chalk line (Photo 10).

Slide gutter flashing under the shingles and secure with 1-in. roofing nails every 2 ft. Lap sections about 2 in.

Hook a hanger under the front lip of the gutter and screw it through the flashing into the fascia. (The gutter apron will prevent you from slipping the hangers over the back edge of the gutter as intended.) Install hangers every 2 ft.

With gutter replacement, you can prevent water from running behind your gutters by installing a metal gutter apron flashing under the shingles and over the back edge of the gutter (Photo 11). If your home center or hardware store doesnt sell prebent flashing, ask an aluminum siding contractor or local sheet metal fabricator to bend some for you. Ideally the flashing should be slid under both the shingles and the roofing paper or ice and water barrier. If this isnt possible because the ice and water barrier is stuck to the sheathing, or there are too many nails and staples along the edge of the roofing paper, then just slip the flashing under the shingles (Photo 11). If the flashing youre using is too short to reach down over the back edge of the gutter, slip an additional strip of sheet metal flashing under the bent flashing and over the gutters.

Install hidden hangers

With the gutters screwed to the fascia, its a simple job to install the hidden gutter hangers (Photo 12). Install hangers every 2 ft. to support the gutters and strengthen the front edge. The hangers are designed to slip over the back edge of the gutter, but since weve covered this edge with flashing, just hold them level and drive the screws through the flashing and gutter back into the fascia. The large screws included with the hangers we used are a little tricky to get started, especially through steel gutters and flashing. Spin them at high speed without applying much pressure until the screw tip bites into the metal. Then lean on the drill and drive them into the fascia.

Screw an elbow to the downspout outlet. Hold another elbow against the wall and measure between them. Allow for a 1-1/2 in. overlap at each end. Use a hacksaw to cut this length from the uncrimped end of a downspout tube.

Crimp one end of the short length of downspout with a special sheet metal crimper. With the three blades on the inside of the tube, hold the crimper against the inside corner of the tube and squeeze. Crimp three times across both long edges and twice on the narrow sides. Attach this short section of downspout to the two elbows with two 1/4-in. hex head sheet metal screws into each joint.

Cut strips about 1-1/4 in. wide from the end of a downspout with tin snips. Cut out a U-shaped bracket and snip off the corners. Measure from the corner of the house and mark the locations of each bracket, spacing them about 6 ft. apart. Attach the brackets to the house with stainless steel screws. (Drill a clearance hole through stucco with a masonry bit. Use plastic anchors for brick. Use 1/4-in.-long hex head screws for vinyl siding.) Cut and screw downspout sections to an elbow at the bottom. The bottom of the elbow should be about 6 in. above the ground. Slip this assembled downspout section over the crimped end of the top elbow and secure it with two screws.

Drive screws through the brackets into the assembled downspout. Complete the assembly by adding a length of downspout tube to the bottom elbow to direct water away from the foundation.

Photos 13 16 show how to install the downspouts. Were using standard 2 x 3-in. downspouts, but the procedure for oversized 3 x 4-in. ones is the same. Assemble the elbows and downspout tube with the crimped ends facing down to prevent water from leaking out of the joints. Use sheet metal screws rather than rivets so you can disassemble the downspouts to clean them if necessary. Pros prefer prepainted 1/4-in. hex head screws with very sharp points, called zippers because theyre easy to install. We found these screws in the aluminum siding section of a home center, but a gutter supplier would be another good source.

You can cut downspout tubing with a 32-tooth hacksaw blade, but the pro we talked to uses a circular saw with a standard 24-tooth carbide blade. A power miter box also works great for cutting both gutters and downspouts. Use an old blade, though. Protect yourself from flying bits of metal with goggles, leather gloves, jeans and a long-sleeve shirt.

Each length of gutter and every elbow is squeezed, or crimped, on one end to allow the pieces to fit together, one inside the other. Since 10-ft. lengths of downspout are only crimped on one end, youll have to crimp one end of any cutoff piece to make it fit inside the next elbow or downspout section. If you only have one or two downspouts to install, you can use a needle-nose pliers to twist crimps into the end. But an inexpensive crimping tool will save you tons of time and frustration (Photo 14).

Finish the gutter job by easier to hang the downspouts. attaching the downspouts to the wall. If you cant find U-shaped brackets, make them from sections of downspout (Photo 15). They look better than the bands that wrap around the outside and make it easier to hang the downspouts.

After installing gutters, gutter maintenance is the key to long-lasting gutters

Clean leaves from your gutters twice a year, or hire a company that specializes in gutter cleaning and maintenance. Youll extend the life of your gutters and eliminate problems like backed-up gutters and plugged downspouts.

Ten-foot lengths of metal gutters, downspouts and accessories are available at home centers, lumberyards and full-service hardware stores. Standard colors are brown and white. Matching inside and outside corners, downspout elbows and accessories are also available. Buy special gutter sealant to seal the seams. Its available in small toothpaste-type tubes or 12-oz. caulk gun tubes.

Using many of the same basic techniques we show in this story, you can install your own seamless gutters. Listed under Gutters in the Yellow Pages, many seamless gutter companies will come to your house, measure and form continuous lengths of aluminum gutter to fit, and sell you all the installation accessories youll need. It costs a little more, but youll be able to choose from dozens of colors and eliminate seams in the gutter runs. Youll also save the hassle of measuring, shopping and hauling the parts home in your VW bug.

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you startyoull save time and frustration.

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Heres a list.

Originally posted here:
Gutter Replacement: How to Install Gutters The Family ...

Steps // How to Install Rain Gutters

3Attach fascia brackets

Step Three // How to Install Rain Gutters

Photo by Mary Beth Montgomery

Locate the rafter tails behind the fascia; they're typically spaced 16 inches on center (look for telltale nail heads).

Make a mark at the chalk line on every other rafter tail.

Bore a -inch-diameter pilot hole through the fascia and into the rafter tail at each mark.

Fasten fascia brackets with -inch stainless steel lag screws long enough to penetrate rafters 2 inches (as shown).

Tip: Rub soap on the lag screws so they'll be easier to drive through fascia and into rafter tails.

4Saw gutter to length

Step Four // How to Install Rain Gutters

Photo by Mary Beth Montgomery

Cut gutter section to length with hacksaw and aviation snips, or with a 12-inch power miter saw fitted with a carbide-tipped finish blade (as shown).

If the gutter continues around a corner, cut the appropriate angle (typically 45 degrees) on that end.

If the run requires two sections of gutter, overlap them by 8 inches and use 3/8-inch-long, self-tapping, stainless steel screws or pop rivets, in two rows of four each, to join them.

Tip: Locate screws or rivets in the sides of the gutter, never in the bottom.

8Form strip-miter joint at corner

Step Eight // How to Install Rain Gutters

Photo by Mary Beth Montgomery

Cover the joint between two lengths of gutter at each corner with a strip miter a 3-inch-wide strip of aluminum.

Wrap the aluminum strip tight around the underside of the gutter. Secure it with eight pop rivets or sheet- metal screws.

Cut a triangular section from the top of the strip miter (as shown) with snips, and then fold down the two flaps around the top edge of the gutter.

This joint can also be made more waterproof with the addition of a high-quality siliconized caulk.

9Connect downspout to gutter

Step Nine // How to Install Rain Gutters

Photo by Mary Beth Montgomery

Secure the downspout outlet to the gutter with four pop rivets or screws.

Screw a downspout elbow to the outlet tube protruding down from the gutter.

Hold another elbow against the house and cut a piece of downspout to fit between the two elbows.

Use needlenosed pliers to slightly crimp the elbow to fit into the downspout (as shown).

Fasten the parts together with pop rivets or screws.

Tip: Use two downspout brackets on a one-story house and three brackets on a two-story house.

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How to Install Rain Gutters | This Old House

Recent Job Requests for Install or Replace Gutters Contractors in Ashburn, Virginia:

Project Location: Ashburn, VA 20147

Date: 06/23/2018

Project Description: Replace existing gutters

Select the type of gutter material you want:: Seamless Aluminum

Request Stage: Planning & Budgeting

Desired Completion Date: 1 - 2 weeks

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Comment: Would like to do replacement with a gutter cover system of some type ...

Project Location: Ashburn, VA 20147

Date: 06/22/2018

Project Description: Replace existing gutters

How many stories is your house?: 3

Request Stage: Planning & Budgeting

Desired Completion Date: 1 - 2 weeks

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Project Location: Ashburn, VA 20147

Date: 06/15/2018

Project Description: Replace existing gutters

Select the type of gutter material you want:: Don't Know

How many stories is your house?: 2

Request Stage: Planning & Budgeting

Desired Completion Date: 1 - 2 weeks

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Property Owner: Yes

Comment: Need to replace gutters.

Project Location: Ashburn, VA 20148

Date: 06/13/2018

Project Description: Replace existing gutters

Select the type of gutter material you want:: Galvanized steel

How many stories is your house?: 2

Request Stage: Ready to Hire

Desired Completion Date: Timing is flexible

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Property Owner: Yes

Comment: Replace existing gutter

Project Location: Ashburn, VA 20147

Date: 06/11/2018

Project Description: Replace existing gutters

Select the type of gutter material you want:: Copper

How many stories is your house?: 2

Request Stage: Planning & Budgeting

Desired Completion Date: Timing is flexible

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Property Owner: Yes

Project Location: Ashburn, VA 20147

Date: 06/11/2018

Project Description: Replace existing gutters

Select the type of gutter material you want:: Don't Know

How many stories is your house?: 2

Request Stage: Planning & Budgeting

Desired Completion Date: 1 - 2 weeks

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Property Owner: Yes

Comment: Need to replace gutters.

Project Location: Ashburn, VA 20147

Date: 06/09/2018

Project Description: Install new gutters where there are none

Select the type of gutter material you want:: Seamless Aluminum

Request Stage: Ready to Hire

Desired Completion Date: 1 - 2 weeks

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Comment: Install new gutters in the back of the house. two sections: bump out and kitchen.

Project Location: Ashburn, VA 20147

Date: 06/01/2018

Project Description: Replace existing gutters

Select the type of gutter material you want:: Don't Know

How many stories is your house?: 2

Request Stage: Ready to Hire

Desired Completion Date: Timing is flexible

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Property Owner: Yes

Comment: I am seeking to get a quote on replacing my gutters.

Project Location: Ashburn, VA 20148

Date: 05/2018

Project Description: Replace existing gutters

Select the type of gutter material you want:: Don't Know

Request Stage: Ready to Hire

Desired Completion Date: Timing is flexible

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Project Location: Ashburn, VA 20148

Date: 05/2018

Project Description: Replace existing gutters

How many stories is your house?: 2

Request Stage: Planning & Budgeting

Desired Completion Date: Within 1 week

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Property Owner: Yes

Comment: Gutters are old and need to be replaced. I need an estimate for the project

Project Location: Ashburn, VA 20148

Date: 05/2018

Project Description: Replace existing gutters

Request Stage: Planning & Budgeting

Desired Completion Date: Timing is flexible

What kind of location is this?: Home/Residence

Property Owner: Yes

Comment: REPLACE METAL GUTTERS

Project Location: Ashburn, VA 20148

Date: 05/2018

Project Description: Replace existing gutters

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Gutter Installers in Ashburn, VA - HomeAdvisor

On behalf of the Village of Greenup, Illinois. As Mayor, I welcome you to our beautiful historic town with many shops and attractions to spend a little extra time visiting.

"Greenup" known as the Village of the Porches is nestled between Interstate 70, IL RT 40 and IL RT 130. Our little piece of heaven is home to over 1500 residents. The business district is listed on the National Registry of Historic Buildings. Our Main Street (Cumberland St./lllinois RT 121) is also part of the National Road. As you drive down "Main" you will encounter attractive old architecture as well as beautiful overhanging porches lining most of the downtown buildings. Underneath these porches you will find everything from quaint antique stores to today's newest looks. Be sure to stop at the several locations throughout our lovely little Village and enjoy a terrific meal or dessert.

Greenup is home to several small businesses including EVAPCO, which employs over 400 people and to the Cumberland County Fair. Just a little further to the east is our beloved Covered Bridge spanning across the Embarras River.

Once again, as Mayor, I Stacey Carl not only invite, but welcome you to come visit our charming little village.

Very Truly Yours,

Stacey Carl Village Mayor

Located on Interstate 70, state routes 121 and 130 and US Route 40, Greenup Illinois, is just 50 minutes west of Terre Haute and 125 miles east of St. Louis. All of these roads will lead you to Greenup Illinois! We are a business friendly community that encourages you to take a look around our community and start or relocate your business here. We invite you to make Greenup, Illinois, your business home.

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The Vilage of Greenup, Illinois

Be very wary of contractors or companies who try to confuse you about mold removal or mold remediation.

Understanding the basic concepts of mold remediation and mold removal is not difficult and is essential if you want to hire the right professional at the best price and highest quality. While learning and understanding the basic concepts of mold remediation and mold removal is easy, doing the actual work in the proper way as described below can however be a challenge.

But every consumer who has a mold problem can understand the basic concepts of mold remediation and mold removal without needing a PHD in Biology, Biochemistry and Earth Sciences!

For the purpose of this article, Mold Removal, Mold Remediation, Mold Abatement and Mold Mitigation are interchangeable terms that essentially mean fixing a mold problem in a structure.

So without further ado, here is our detailed explanation of the mold removal process, free of scare tactics.

1. Safety Protect all workers and occupants.2. Assessment Make a preliminary assessment, an assessment during mold remediation and an assessment after mold remediation.3. Contamination Control Prevent cross-contamination and the spread of mold from contaminated areas to areas absent of or with less contamination.4. Source Removal Physically remove the mold at its source.5. Moisture Removal Eliminate the moisture problem that caused the mold outbreak.

Moldman provides free estimates for all mold removal and mold remediation projects. We also guarantee the lowest prices on all services provided, including mold remediation and mold removal.

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The Truth About Mold Removal And Mold Remediation | MoldmanUSA

Plumber

Residential plumber at work.

Activity sectors

A plumber is a tradesperson who specializes in installing and maintaining systems used for potable (drinking) water, sewage and drainage in plumbing systems. The term dates from ancient times and is related to the Latin word for lead, "plumbum".[1][2]

The word "plumber" dates from the Roman Empire.[3] The Latin for lead is plumbum. Roman roofs used lead in conduits and drain pipes[4] and some were also covered with lead, lead was also used for piping and for making baths.[5] In medieval times anyone who worked with lead was referred to as a plumber as can be seen from an extract of workmen fixing a roof in Westminster Palace and were referred to as plumbers "To Gilbert de Westminster, plumber, working about the roof of the pantry of the little hall, covering it with lead, and about various defects in the roof of the little hall".[6] Thus a person with expertise in working with lead was first known as a Plumbarius which was later shortened to plumber.

Years of training and/or experience are needed to become a skilled plumber; some jurisdictions also require that plumbers be licensed.

Some needed skills, interests, and values. Protecting health and welfare of the nation is the top priority of a plumber along with,

Each state and locality may have its own licensing and taxing schemes for plumbers. There is no federal law establishing licenses for plumbers.[7]

In Canada, licensing requirements differ by province, however the provinces have pooled resources to develop an Interprovincial Program Guide that developed and maintains apprenticeship training standards across all provinces. The result is what is known as the Interprovincial Standards Red Seal Program.

National Vocational Qualifications (NVQ) remained the main form of plumbing qualification until they were superseded in 2008 by the Qualification and Credit Framework (QCF)[8] and then again into the National qualifications frameworks in the United Kingdom in 2015. The terms NVQ and SVQ (Scottish Vocational Qualification) are still widely used[9].

Plumbers in the United Kingdom are required to pass Level 2 and Level 3 vocational requirements of the City and Guilds of London Institute. There are several regulatory bodies in the United Kingdom providing accredited plumbing qualifications, including City and Guilds of London Institute and Pearson PLC [10].

Plumbers in Australia have licensing requirements that differ from state to state but it is generally accepted a 4-year apprenticeship with a further minimum experience of 2 years (6 years total) and a further curricular requirement as a benchmark for licensing. Licensed plumbers are also expected to maintain minimum relevant training requirements to maintain their plumbing license

The term "White House Plumbers" was a popular name given to the covert White House Special Investigations Unit established on July 24, 1971 during the presidency of Richard Nixon. Their job was to plug intelligence "leaks" in the U.S. Government relating to the Vietnam War (i.e. the Pentagon Papers); hence the term "plumbers".[11]

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Plumber - Wikipedia

Buffalo Plumbing

The charming city of Buffalo, New York, offers everything from natural attractions to a vibrant arts scene. Just 20 minutes away from Niagara Falls, the region boasts unparalleled natural beauty. Its northern location also makes it a thriving winter destination, with many seasonal attractions that take advantage of the cool, snowy climate. No matter how much DIY knowledge homeowners may have, it's a safe bet that they will require the services of a professional plumber at some point.

Buffalo's plumbers can do everything from fixing a leaky faucet to installing a new water heater. Residents of the "City of Good Neighbors" must be particularly vigilant about keeping the plumbing in good shape, especially during the frigid winter months. Always use a licensed, insured plumber to be sure that the job gets done correctly and efficiently.

Downtown Buffalo has become a desirable spot for millennials and young professionals, thanks to the variety of apartments, converted warehouses, and lofts. From the hip downtown area to family-friendly suburbs, Buffalo plumbers serve a wide area, including six of the city's most popular neighborhoods:

Keeping a home's plumbing in good repair is an essential task, especially in the cold, snowy climate of Buffalo. Avoid frozen pipes and winter disasters by hiring a knowledgeable, experienced plumber to perform all the necessary repairs or upgrades to the existing plumbing system.

Plumbing costs typically vary depending on the size and scope of the project. For example, some smaller tasks, such as repairing a toilet, costs approximately $194, while cleaning a septic tank costs an average of $372. The following table lists other common plumbing tasks and compares Buffalo's average prices with the national average.

Task Type

National Average Price

Buffalo's Average Price

Hiring a plumber

$280

$313

Repairing a clogged drain

$199

$265

Repairing a water heater

$482

$486

Repairing a sump pump

$455

$448

Installing a water heater

$888

$821

Installing new plumbing pipes

$1,182

$575

Installing a bathtub

$2,832

$4,816

As the above table demonstrates, homeowners in Buffalo can expect to payer slightly higher than average prices for many common plumbing tasks, although tasks such as installing new pipes may be significantly less expensive.

Buffalo plumbers are required to have a license after completing an apprenticeship and all required educational training. There are two license types: journeyman plumber and master plumber. Becoming licensed requires experience, training, and the completion of the appropriate applications. Fees include an exam fee of approximately $21. After passing the test, applicants must pay $126 for a license that must be renewed every 2 years.

Journeyman plumbers These plumbers work as employees in a plumbing operation. To qualify for the exam, applicants must have at least 5 years of full-time experience working under the supervision of a master plumber, or have a combination of approved training and experience.

Master plumbers These plumbers typically own a plumbing business and are the principal plumbers in the operation. To apply for this license, the applicant must work as a journeyman plumber for a minimum of 6,000 hours under the supervision of a licensed master plumber.

Like other contractors, plumbers in Buffalo must have general liability insurance and worker's compensation. The Plumbers & Steamfitters Local 22, a plumber's union, can help connect prospective plumbers with apprenticeship programs and training opportunities. Members of the union perform a variety of plumbing jobs including:

Keeping a home's plumbing up to date and in good working order gives that home a competitive edge. Homebuyers and renters in Buffalo expect plumbing to be trouble free. Performing routine maintenance and keeping up with necessary repairs and updates can help prevent catastrophic problems and enhance the home's appeal. Licensed, experienced plumbers can accomplish everything from repairing clogged toilets and cleaning sewer systems to installing new pipes and fixtures.

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A stave church is a medieval wooden Christian church building once common in north-western Europe. The name derives from the building's structure of post and lintel construction, a type of timber framing where the load-bearing ore-pine posts are called stafr in Old Norse (stav in modern Norwegian). Two related church building types also named for their structural elements, the post church and palisade church, are often called 'stave churches'.

Originally much more widespread, most of the surviving stave churches are in Norway. The only remaining medieval stave churches outside Norway are those of circa 1500 at Hedared in Sweden and one Norwegian stave church relocated in 1842 to the outskirts of Krummhbel, Germany, now Karpacz in the Karkonosze mountains of Poland. (One other church, the Anglo-Saxon Greensted Church in England, exhibits many similarities with a stave church but is generally considered a palisade church.)

Archaeological excavations have shown that stave churches, best represented today by the Borgund stave church, are descended from palisade constructions and from later churches with earth-bound posts.

Similar palisade constructions are known from buildings from the Viking Age. Logs were split in two halves, set or rammed into the earth (generally called post in ground construction) and given a roof. This proved a simple but very strong form of construction. If set in gravel, the wall could last many decades, even centuries. An archaeological excavation in Lund uncovered the postholes of several such churches.

In post churches, the walls were supported by sills, leaving only the posts earth-bound. Such churches are easy to spot at archaeological sites as they leave very distinct holes where the posts were once placed. Occasionally some of the wood remains, making it possible to date the church more accurately using radiocarbon dating and/or with dendrochronology. Under the Urnes stave church, remains have been found of two such churches, with Christian graves discovered beneath the oldest church structure.

A single church of palisade construction has been discovered under the Hemse stave church.

The next design phase resulted from the observation that earthbound posts were susceptible to humidity, causing them to rot away over time. To prevent this, the posts were placed on top of large stones, significantly increasing their lifespans. The stave church in Rldal is believed to be of this type.

In still later churches, the posts were set on a raised sill frame resting on stone foundations. This is the stave church in its most mature form.

It is now common to group the churches into two categories: the first, without free-standing posts, often referred to as Type A; and the second, with a raised roof and free-standing internal posts, usually called Type B.

Those with the raised roof, Type B, are often further divided into two subgroups. The first of these, the Kaupanger group, have a whole arcade row of posts and intermediate posts along the sides and details that mimic stone capitals. These churches give an impression of a basilica.

The other subgroup is the Borgund group. In these churches the posts are connected halfway up with one or two horizontal double pincer beams with semicircular indentations, clasping the row of posts from both sides. Cross-braces are inserted between the posts and the upper and lower pincer beams (or above the single pincer beam), forming a very rigid interconnection, and resembling the triforium of stone basilicas. This design made it possible to omit the freestanding lower part of intermediate posts. In some churches in Valdres, only the four corner posts remain (see the image of Lomen stave church).

Many stave churches had or still have outer galleries or ambulatories around their whole perimeters, loosely connected to the plank walls. These probably served to protect the church from a harsh climate, and for processions.

At the base of Type A churches, there are four heavy sill beams on a low foundation of stones. These are interconnected in the corner notch, forming a rigid sill frame. The corner posts or staves (stavene in Norwegian) are cross-cut at the lower end and fit over the corner notches and cover them, protecting them from moisture.

On top of the sill beam is a groove into which the lower ends of the wall planks (veggtilene) fit. The last wall plank is wedge-shaped and rammed into place. When the wall is filled in with planks, the frame is completed by a wall plate (stavlgje) with a groove on the bottom, holding the top ends of the wall planks. The whole structure consists of framesa sill frame resting on the stone foundation, and the four wall frames made up of sills, corner posts and wall plate.

The wall plates support the roof trusses, consisting of a pair of principal rafters and an additional pair of intersecting "scissor rafters". For lateral bracing, additional wooden brackets (bueknr) are inserted between the rafters.

Every piece is locked into position by other pieces, making for a very rigid construction; yet all points otherwise susceptible to the harsh weather are covered.

Single nave churches in Norway: Grip, Haltdalen, Undredal, Hedal, Reinli, Eidsborg, Rollag, Uvdal, Nore, Hyjord, Rldal and Garmo.

The only remaining similar church in Sweden, in Hedared, is of this type and shows similarities with the one from Haltdalen.

On the stone foundation, four huge ground beams (grunnstokker) are placed like a sign, their ends protruding 12 meters from the lap joint where they intersect. The ends of these beams support the sills of the outer walls, forming a separate horizontal frame. The tall internal posts are placed on the internal frame of ground beams, and carry the main roof above the central nave (skip). On the outer frame of sills rest the main wall planks (veggtiler), carrying the roof over the pentice or aisles (omgang) surrounding the central space. The roof thus slopes down in two steps, as in a basilica.

The tall internal posts (staver) are interconnected with brackets (bueknr), and also connected to the outer walls with aisle rafters, creating a laterally rigid construction. Closer to the top of the posts (staver), shorter sills inserted between them support the upper wall (tilevegg). On top of the posts wall plates (stavlgjer) support the roof trusses, similar to those of the single nave churches.

The Kaupanger group consists of: Kaupanger, Urnes, Hopperstad and Lom.

The Borgund group consists of: Borgund, Gol, Hegge, Hre (Hurum), Lomen, Ringebu and ye.

This form of a church can also be recognized from the holes which remain from earlier earth-bound post churches built on the same sites. Little is known about what these older churches actually looked like or how they were constructed, as they were all destroyed or replaced many centuries ago.

Stave churches were once common in northern Europe. In Norway alone, it was thought about 1000 were built; recent research has upped this number and it is now believed there may have been closer to 2000.[1]

Most of the surviving stave churches in Norway were built 1150-1350.[2] Stave churches older than the 1100s are known only from written sources or from archaeological excavations, but written sources are sparse and difficult to interpret.[3] Only 271 masonry churches were constructed in Norway during the same period, 160 of these still exist, while in Sweden and Denmark there were 900 and 1800 masonry churches respectively.[4] Frostathing Law and Gulating law rules about "corner posts" shows that stave church was the standard church building in Norway, even if the catholic church preferred stone.[5] All wooden churches in Norway before the reformation were constructed with staves. Log building is younger than stave building in Norway and was introduced in residential buildings around year 1000. Stave building is not influenced by the log technique.[6][7]

The word "stave church" is unknown in Old Norse, presumably because there were no other types of wooden churches. When Norway's churches after the Reformation were constructed in log, there was a need for a separate word for the older churches. In written sources from the Middle Ages, there is a clearl distinction between "stafr" (posts) and "ili" or "vgili" (wall boards). However, in documents from the 1600-1700s, "stave" was also used for wall boards or panels. Emil Eckhoff in his Svenska stavkyrkor (1914-1916) also included wood frame church buildings without posts.[8]

According to Norway's oldest written laws and Old Norwegian Homily Book, the consecration of the church was valid as long as the four corner posts were standing.[5] One of the sermons in the old homily book is known as the "stave church sermon". The sermon dates from around 1100 and was presumably performed at consecrations, or on the anniversary of such. The sermon text is a theological interpretation of the building elements in the church. It names most of the building elements in the stave church, and can be a source of terminology and technique.[9][10] For instance, the sermon says: "The four corner posts of the church are a symbol for the four gospels, because their teachings are the strongest supports within the whole of Christianity."[11]

Church building was mentioned in the Gulatingsloven (Gulating Law), which was written down in the 1000s. In the chapter on Christianity, the 12th article states:[12]

If one man builds a church, either lendmann does it or a farmer, or whoever builds a church, shall keep the church and the plot in good condition. But if the church breaks down and corner posts fall, then he shall bring timber to the plot before twelve months; if not, he will pay three marks in punishment to the bishop and bring timber and rebuild the church anyway.

(Um einskildmenn byggjer kyrkje, anten lendmann gjer det eller bonde, eller kven det er som byggjer kyrkje, skal han halda henne i stand og inkje yda tufti. Men um kyrkja brotnar og hyrnestavane fell, d skal han fra timber p tufti innan tolv mnadar; um det ikkje kjem, skal han bta tre merker for det til biskopen og koma med timber og byggja opp kyrkja likevel."

In Norway, stave churches were gradually replaced; many survived until the 19th century when a substantial number were destroyed. Today, 28 historical stave churches remain standing in Norway. Stave churches were particularly common in less populated areas in high valleys and forest land, and fishermen's villages on islands and in minor villages along fjords. Around 1800 in Norway 322 stave churches were still known and most of these were in sparsely populated areas of Norway. If the main church was masonry the annex church could be a stave church.[5] Masonry churches were mostly built in towns, along the coast, and in rich agricultural areas in Trndelag and East Norway, as well as in the larger parishes in fjord districts i Western Norway.[4] During 1400s and 1500s no new churches were built in Norway.[13] Norway's stave churches largely disappeared until 1700 and were replaced by log buildings. Several stave churches were redesigned or enlarged in a different technique during 1600-1700, for instance Flesberg stave church were converted into cruciform church partly in log construction.[14] According to Dietrichson, most stave churches were dismantled to make room for a new church, partly because the old church had become too small for the congregation, partly because the stave church was in poor condition. Fire, storm, avalanche and decay were other reasons.[7] In 1650 there were about 270 stave churches left in Norway, and in the next hundred years 136 of these disappeared. Around 1800 there were still 95 stave churches, while over 200 former stave churches were still known by name or in written sources. From 1850 to 1885 32 stave churches fell, since then only the Fantoft stave church has been lost.[5]

Heddal stave church was the first stave church described in a scholarly publication when Johannes Flintoe wrote an essay in Samlinger til det Norske Folks Sprog og Historie (Christiania, 1834). The book also printed Flintoes drawings of the facade, the ground floor and the floor plan - the first known architectural drawing of a stave church.[15]

It is unknown how many stave churches were constructed in Iceland and in other countries in Europe.[citation needed] Some believe[who?] they were the first type of church to be constructed in Scandinavia; however, the post churches are an older type, although the difference between the two is slight. A stave church has a lower construction set on a frame, whereas a post church has earth-bound posts.

In Sweden, the stave churches were considered obsolete in the Middle Ages and were replaced. In Denmark, traces of post churches have been found at several locations, and there are also parts still in existence from some of them. A plank of one such church was found in Jutland. The plank is now on display at the National Museum of Denmark in Copenhagen and an attempt at reconstructing the church is a featured display at the Moesgrd Museum near Aarhus. Marks created by several old post churches have also been found at the old stone church in Jelling.

In Sweden, the medieval Hedared stave church was constructed c. 1500 at the same location as a previous stave church. Other notable places are Maria Minor church in Lund, with its traces of a post church with palisades, and some old parts of Hemse stave church on Gotland. In Skne alone there were around 300 such churches when Adam of Bremen visited Denmark in the first half of the 11th century, but how many of those were stave churches or post churches is unknown.

In England, there is one similar church of Saxon origin, with much debate as to whether it is a stave church or predates them. This is the Greensted Church in Essex. General consensus categorizes it as Saxon [A]. There is also another church which bears similarities to stave churches, the medieval stone church of St. Mary in Kilpeck in Herefordshire. It features a number of dragon heads.

In Germany, there is one stone church with a motif depicting a dragon similar to those often seen on Norwegian stave churches and on surviving artifacts from Denmark and Gotland. Whether this decoration can be attributed to cultural similarities or whether it indicates similar construction methods in Germany has sparked controversy.

During 1950-1970 post holes from older buildings were discovered under Lom stave church as well as under masonry churches such as Kinsarvik Church,[5] and this discovery was and important contribution to understanding the origin of stave churches. Holes for posts were first identified during excavations in Urnes stave church.[16]

Lorentz Dietrichson in his book De norske Stavkirker ("The Norwegian Stave Churches") (1892) claimed that the stave church is "a brilliant translation of the Romanesque basilica from stone to wood" (En genial oversettelse fra sten til tre av den romanske basilika). Dietrichson claimed that type B displays an influence from early Christian and Roman basilicas. The style was assumed to be transferred via Anglo-Saxon and Irish architecture, where only the particular roof construction was local. Dietrichson emphasized the clerestory, arcades and capitals.[7] The "basilica theory" was introduced by N. Nicolaysen in Mindesmrker af Middelalderens Kunst i Norge (1854). Nicolaysen worte: "Our stave churches are now the only remaining of its kind, and according to the sparse records and known circumstances, it appears that nothing similar existed except perhaps in Britain and Ireland." (Vore stavkirker er nu de eneste i sit slags, og saavidt sparsomme beretninger og andre omstndigheder lader formode, synes de heller ikke tidligere at have havt noget sidestykke med undtagelse af maaske i Storbritannien og Irland.)[17] Nicolaysen further claimed that the layout and design may have been inspired by Byzantine architecture. Nicloaysen wrote: "All facts suggest that the stave churches like the masonry churches and all medieval architecture in Western Europe originated from the Roman basilica." (Alt synes at henpege paa, at forbilledet til vore stavkirker ligesom til stenkirkerne og overhovedet til hele den vesteuropiske arkitektur i middelalderen er udgaaet fra den romerske basilika.)[18] This theory was further developed by Anders Bugge and Roar Hauglid. Peter Anker believed that the influence from foreign masonry architecture was primarily in decorative details.[19]

Per Jonas Nordhagen does not reject the basilica theory, but suggests development along two paths and that the basilical was a development towards larger and technically more sophisticated churches. The main, progressive path according to Nordhagen lead to Torpo and Borgund.[20]

Folklore and circumstantial evidence seem to suggest that stave churches were built upon old indigenous Norse worship sites, the hof. Dietrichson believed that the stave churches were closely connected to the hof and the "hof theory" attracted interest in the 1930-1940s. The theory assumed that the hofs were buildings with a square and a raised roof supported by four columns.[19] During Christianization of Norway local chiefs were forced to either dismantle the hofs or to convert hofs into churches. Bugge and Norberg-Schultz accordingly claimed that "there is no reason to believe that the last hofs and the first churches had any major differences" (og da er det liten grunn til tro at de siste hov har skilt seg synderlig fra de frste kirker).[21] This assumption has been rejected by archeological evidence several times, in the case of Iceland by ge Roussel.[22] Olaf Olsen described the hof merely as function related to ordinary buildings on major farms. If the hof was a particular building they remain to be identified, according to Olsen.[23] Olsen rejected the hof theory. Nicolay Nicolaysen also concluded that there is not a single case known of a hof that was converted to a church.[24]

Lack of historical evidence for hofs as buildings undermines the hof theory.[25] Nicolaysen also introduced the community centre hypothesis which argued that hofs were destroyed and churches constructed on the same convenient location for the local community. Location near a previous hof would then be a coincidence, according to Nicolaysen. Pope Gregory I encouraged (year 601) Augustine of Canterbury to reuse pre-Christian temples, but this had little relevance for Norway according to Nicolaysen. Jan Brendalsmo in his dissertation concluded that churches were often established on major farms or farms of local chiefs and close to feasting halls or graveyards.[26]

Stave churches appear to sometimes to have built upon or used materials from old pagan worship sites and are considered to be the best evidence for the existence of Norse Pagan temples and the best guide as to what they looked like.[27] The layout of the churches is believed to have mimicked old Pagan temples in design and was possibly designed in order to adhere to old Norse cosmological beliefs, especially as some churches were built around a central point like a world tree. Stave churches were also often located near or in the sight of large natural formations which also had a significant role in Norse Paganism, thus also suggesting a form of continuity through placement and symbolism.[28] Furthermore, dragons' heads and other clear mythological symbolism suggests the cultural blending of Norse mythological beliefs and Christianity in a non-contradictory synthesis.[clarification needed] Owing to this evidence newer research has suggested that Christianity was introduced into Norway much earlier than was previously assumed.[citation needed]

Even though the wooden churches had structural differences, they give a recognizable general impression. Formal differences may hide common features of their planning, while apparently similar buildings may turn out to have their structural elements organized completely differently. Despite this, certain basic principles must have been common to all types of building.

Basic geometrical figures, numbers that were easy to work with, one or just a few length units and simple ratios, and perhaps proportions as well were among the theoretical aids all builders inherited. The specialist was the man who knew a particular type of building so well that he could systematise its elements in a slightly different way from previous building designs, thus carrying developments a stage further.

"Exposing the timber frame on the interior and/or exterior of the structures is seen to release its matrix of timber members and its capacity to contribute architectural expression to buildings. The matrix, forming lines in space, has an expressive potential that includes the capacity to delineate proportion, direct eye-movement, suggest spatial enclosure, create patterning, permit transparency and establish continuity with landscape."[29]

Stave churches can be dated in various ways: by historical records or inscriptions, by stylistic means using construction details or ornaments, or by dendrochronology and radiocarbon dating. Often historical records or inscriptions will point to a year when the church is known to have existed. Archaeological excavations can yield finds which can provide relative dating for the structure, whereas absolute dating methods such as radiocarbon dating and dendrochronology can provide a more exact date. One drawback of dendrochronology is that it tends to overlook the possibility that the wood could have been reused from an older structure, or felled and left for many years before use.

A very important problem in dating the churches is that the solid ground sills are the construction elements most likely to have the outer parts of the log still preserved. Yet they are the most susceptible to humidity, and as people back then reused building parts, the church may have been rebuilt several times. If so, a dendrochronological dating may be based upon a log from a later reconstruction.

Stave churches are a very popular phenomenon and several have been built or rebuilt around the world. The two most copied are Borgund and Hedared, with some variations, and sometimes with adaptations to add elements from known stave churches from the area. In other places they are of a more free form and built for display.

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Stave church - Wikipedia

Measure the width of the wall and cut the sheet so its about 14 inch shorter. Have someone help you position the sheet tight against the ceiling.

Begin driving screws in the middle of the panel at a convenient height. Once the first screws are in place, put in the rest, working your way from the center of the panel toward the outside. Drive the screws 16 inches apart, and into all of the studs.

Tip: Hanging drywall horizontally can lessen the amount of taping required and place the seam at a convenient height. A longer wall may need more than one sheet of drywall.

Start by hanging a full sheet as before. Tack it in place, and then drive screws every 16 inches and into the studs.

If the sheet covers a window that has yet to be installed:Cover the window with a drywall panel and insert a few screws to mark the corners of the future window. If you have a drywall router, plunge the router into the approximate center of the window and cut sideways and vertically until you find the edges. If you dont have a router, use a handsaw.

If the window is in place:Take off the window trim and cut the window opening in the drywall sheet before you hang it. Lay out the cut by positioning the sheet along the floor and marking where it meets the bottom edge of the window. Measure from the ceiling to the window top to lay out the top edge of the cut.

To cut around a door:Lay out a door cut the same way as a window. Remove the trim. Lean the piece of drywall against the opening, mark the location of the studs, and draw a line for the top of the door opening. Make cuts for both doors and windows with a router or drywall saw and screw the panels in place with drywall screws.

To cut for outlets or other wall fixtures:Use a spiral saw.Note the height of the outlet box or fixture and draw marks on the floor to show where it is. Remove the wires and screw the drywall in place, covering the box and driving just enough screws to keep the drywall in place. Find the inside edge of the box or fixture by plunging the spiral saw into the box and cutting sideways to the edges in a counterclockwise direction.

Tip: If you are using a hand saw, rub the edges of the outlet box with a dry-erase marker or lipstick and put the drywall panel in place in front of it with two screws for positioning. Rub along the front of the panel where the outlet box is. Then remove the panel and cut along the marks on the back of the panel. Reattach the panel and add drywall screws as necessary.

Cut a piece of drywall 1/4-inch short to fit between the corner and the last installed panel. Screw the drywall in place. Where the panels meet, cut a V-groove into the short non-tapered ends with a utility knife, as this will make hiding the joint easier when you're taping.

Begin the bottom row with a shorter piece so that the seam in the top row will not be directly above the seam in the bottom row.Position the piece, lift it with a panel lift, and screw it in place. When the small piece is in place, install the longer piece.

Tip: There should be a slight gap between the floor and the drywall so that the drywall won't jam against bumps in the floor. Baseboard will cover it later. If necessary, trim the sheet to leave about a 12-inch gap.

When framing outside corners:Cut a piece of drywall long so that it hangs over the corner.Trim it with a spiral saw after its in place.Hang the abutting panel, leaving it long, too, and trim it to create a tight, well-fitted corner.Protect the corners with metal corner bead. A bead that is a bit long will kink when you fasten it. To prevent this, cut the bead with tin snips, leaving it about 12 inch short. Hold the bead tight against the ceiling. Screws will distort the bead, so nail it in place, spacing the nails every 9 inches.

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