Home Builder Developer - Interior Renovation and Design

Basement floors can be troublesome as they made be uneven, prone to moisture or just plain cold. So be sure to take proper steps to level your basement floor, add vapor barriers or consider heated floors to enjoy your remodeled basement.

You may also want to take into account a flooring types ability to survive a flood, burst pipe or other high water issues to which basements can be victim. But once you settle those concerns, you have plenty of options for basement flooring from the classic carpet and vinyl to more modern cork and floating floors.

Concrete

Increasing numbers of homeowners decide to enhance the existing concrete in their basement instead of covering it up. Stained and painted concrete floors offer many benefits, including their suitability for people with allergies. Skilled contractors can reproduce the look of slate, tile and marble, or they can apply dyes, paints and stencils in a variety of designs.

While decorative concrete may cost more than some other types of flooring, its proponents point to the long life expectancy of this material. Even cracks in the floor can be considered an attractive rustic feature as long as they do not reflect structural problems. Those concerned by the slippery nature of high-gloss sealers can add a non-slip additive to sealer or stain before application.

This basement utilizes tile flooring in the kitchen and bar area and carpet for the living space. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Rajinder S.)

Carpet

Carpeting remains a popular flooring option for finished basements because of its warmth underfoot. As long as the basement is moisture-free, carpet is a practical option for many homeowners. The cost of carpet and padding varies widely, depending on quality.

Benefits of carpet include the variety of colors and styles available, its sound-muffling qualities and many pricing options. Drawbacks include wear in traffic areas, increased maintenance in comparison to hard flooring options and its inability to survive a flooding event.

Ceramic tile

Reasonably priced ceramic tiles come in a multitude of styles and colors and can be arranged in a custom pattern of the homeowners choosing. Flooring tiles are very durable, stain-resistant, impervious to moisture and easy to maintain. Drawbacks include coldness and the tendency of grout to discolor over time.

Cork

Cork is an eco-friendly flooring material that can be installed over an existing floor or concrete. Cork is derived from the bark of the cork tree, meaning trees are not cut down during harvesting. Cork flooring is durable and has good insulating qualities, but if you choose cork flooring for your basement, make sure you choose a type that is recommended for a basement environment as not all cork flooring is appropriate for basements.

It resists mold, mildew and rot and is easy to clean and maintain. These floors require an acrylic finish to prevent scratches. A polyurethane coat will extend the life of this flooring, and it should be reapplied after 10 years in situations featuring normal wear and tear.

Engineered wood

Engineered wood consists of layered plywood that looks like hardwood but is thinner, more durable and water-resistant. Advantages include the ability to expand and contract with changes in moisture and temperature. The fact that it comes pre-finished is a benefit for many homeowners.

Drawbacks include cost and the fact that it may be refinished only once due to the thinness of its veneer. Maintenance consists of vacuuming and damp mopping. Standing water must be mopped up immediately.

Linoleum

Linoleum is another environmentally friendly flooring option for basements. Homeowners looking for numerous design options and ease of maintenance will enjoy linoleum. Drawbacks include a tendency to stain because of its porous nature and a lack of warmth under the feet. This flooring material is durable, but when damage does occur, repairs can be difficult.

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Basement Remodeling | Angies List

Planning and getting started

Your basement can be more than a utility and storage area. With some forethought and good techniques, you can make it as warm, comfortable and inviting as any other room in the house. But, make no mistake about it: Finishing a basement is a big job. In this article, we'll focus on the framing and some unique problems, such as:

Get started by making a scale drawing of your plans to submit to your local building inspections department. Your plan should include wall dimensions, window and door sizes, and each room's purpose (e.g., family, bedroom, etc.) along with any special features like fireplaces. Some rooms may require large windows, called egress windows, for fire safety. Ask your building inspector if you need them. Also measure the future finished ceiling height and low-hanging pipes or ducts that'll lower headroom. Sketch the details of the exterior wall construction you intend to use as we show in this article. If youre uncertain about the best use of space, hire an architect to help with the design. The permit itself will outline at what stages inspections are required. If you choose to do your own electrical work, draw up and submit that plan as well. With your plan and permit in hand, clear everything out of the basement and you're ready to go. Walk around the basement with caulk and cans of spray foam and plug every gap you can find between framing and masonry and around pipes or wires that penetrate the rim joist or exterior walls. This is your last chance to seal air leaks from the inside.

If you have a wet or damp basement, you must deal with the problem before you get started. To tell if walls are damp from exterior water or just condensation from humid interior air, tape a 2-ft. square sheet of plastic to the masonry. If moisture collects on the front of the plastic, you have condensation. The method we show for finishing will take care of that problem. If moisture collects on the backside after a few days, then water is wicking through the foundation wall from outside. The basement should be treated the same as if it were leaky. If you have regular seepage or water puddling after storms (even once every few years), you have to fix it permanently before finishing. Remedies for damp or wet basements can be as simple as rerouting downspouts, regrading slopes away from foundation walls, or applying water-resistant paints to interior surfaces. As a last resort, hire a pro to install perimeter drains and a sump pump. The bottom line is that it's senseless to spend time and money finishing a basement if leaks or moisture will ruin your work or cause mold to grow.

Cut 3/4-in. extruded polystyrene insulation to fit against the rim joists. Spread a 1/4-in. bead of adhesive on masonry walls and press the sheets into place.

Caulk all gaps and seams between the framing and the foam along the rim joists with more foam to seal potential air leaks.

Snap chalk lines 4 in. away from the insulation on the exterior walls. Then cut 2x4 bottom and top plates and lay out stud locations every 16 in. on each plate.

Squeeze a 1/4-in. bead of construction adhesive to bottom plates and position them. Then predrill with a hammer drill and anchor them with concrete screws.

Nail 2x4 blocking about every 3 ft. into the first floor joist to support the top plate. Toe-screw them to the rim joist through the foam.

Plumb from the edge of the bottom plate to the blocking with a straight 2x4 and level. Snap a chalk lin and screw the top plate to the blocking with 3-in. screws.

Measure between the plates at each layout mark and cut each stud to length. Then toenail the studs into place at the top and bottom with two 8d (2-3/8 in.) nails in one side and a third centered on the other side.

Cut half-wall studs so the finished wall is slightly taller than the masonry. Then lay out the stud locations on the plate and nail the studs in place with 16d nails.

Tip the knee walls up and fasten them to the floor. Then fasten blocks through the foam into the masonry at every third stud with 3-in. concrete screws. Plumb and screw the studs to the blocking for a solid wall.

Start the job by gluing 3/4-in. extruded foam insulation to rim joists and foundation walls (Photo 1). Extruded polystyrene foam (imprinted on each sheet; see Photo 5) can be yellow, pink or blue depending on the manufacturer. Avoid expanded foam insulation (the type that has little white beads pressed together) because it isn't as durable and has a lower R-value. Make cuts by snapping chalk lines to mark and then score it with a utility knife as deep as the blade will penetrate. Then snap the sheet just like you cut drywall. Carefully cut around obstructions and fill spaces with small chunks of foam wherever it's needed, working for tight fits. Then caulk seams and gaps to seal against air infiltration (Photo 2). You'll add fiberglass later for a higher R-value. The foam greatly reduces heat transfer through the masonry and framing, and it eliminates the need for a plastic moisture barrier later. Be sure to use adhesive formulated for use with foam (about $3 per tube). Conventional construction adhesive won't work.

Next frame the stud walls 1/2 in. away from the foam (or more if your foundation's uneven). We show the stick framingmethod of wall building. That means that you cut, lay out and install the top and bottom 2x4s (plates) first (Photos 3 6). Then you'll custom-cut the studs to length and toenail them into place (Photo 7). This method is great for basements because it makes it easy to frame around overhead obstructions and customize stud lengths to handle uneven floors. It can be tough to preframe a wall (as you would normally do with a shed or addition) and raise it in place with a floor overhead. Be sure to use pressure-treated wood for any wood that has contact with concrete surfaces.

Lay out stud locations by laying both plates side by side and then hook your tape measure on one end and mark studs every 16 in. For walls longer than 8 ft., subtract 3/4 in. from each location (e.g., 15-1/4, 31-1/4 in., etc.). That's so drywall will fall in the center of studs. Otherwise, the sheets will fall just short of a stud at each joint.

To position the top plate, tape your level to a straight 2x4 and mark the blocks or joists at either end of the wall. Then snap a chalk line between them. Top plates that run perpendicular to floor joists can be nailed (with 16d nails) or screwed (with 3-in. screws) to the bottom of every other joist. If walls run parallel to floor joists, you'll need to nail or screw blocking in between the floor joists about every 3 ft. or so (Photo 5). For most, running in screws is easier than overhead nailing. Likewise, it's easier to predrill and drive concrete screws rather than pound in concrete nails when fastening bottom plates.

When you're framing half walls (Photo 8), make all of the studs the same length and cut them so the wall will be even with the top of the masonry. The wall may be uneven because of floor inconsistencies, but you can always sight along the top plate and then shim it until it's flat before installing the finished top cap. When plumbing the top of the half wall (Photo 9), be sure to sight along its entire length to make sure it's straight.

Snap a chalk line 2 in. below the lowest portion of ductwork or piping and nail a 2x4 to the wall studs at that point.

Rip 1/2-in. plywood strips to the depth of the soffit (see next photo) and screw 2x2s even with both edges with 1-5/8 in. screws.

Snap a chalk line on the floor joists 2-1/2 in. away from the nearest obstruction and parallel to the wall. Position the assembly along the chalk line and fasten it to the bottom of the floor joists with 3-in. screws.

String a line even with the inside edge of the plywood and use it to determine exact lookout lengths. Nail them in place every 16 in.

Most basements have ductwork and plumbing mounted at the ceiling along an existing wall. Boxing in those pipes and ducts and then drywalling the assembly is the best way to conceal them. The whole structure is called a soffit. Begin by measuring to the floor to find the lowest pipe or duct in the room; that'll define how low the soffit must be. Mark a point 2 in. lower on the wall to allow space for the framing and drywall (Photo 1) and nail on a 2x4 nailing strip using the chalk line to position the bottom of the strip. Then snap another line on the bottom of the joists with a 2-1/2 in. clearance. It's easiest to preassemble the 8-ft. long soffit side sections and screw them to the bottom of the floor joists (Photos 2 and 3). If soffits end at walls, build the walls first.

Mark both sides of partition walls with chalk lines, then center and nail 2x6 backer boards in walls that they join.

Cut the plates and lay out stud positions every 16 in. Mark the door rough opening as well (see Photo 3).

Assemble the wall as shown in Photos 5 7. Use 81-in. trimmers and a single flat 2x4 header over doors. Then measure, cut and nail in header cripples. Finish cutting out bottom plates in door openings with a handsaw.

Partition walls are any walls that aren't against exterior foundation walls or walls that support floors above. Lay out partition walls by snapping chalk lines to mark both sides of the bottom plates (Photo 1). That keeps you from building walls on the wrong side of single lines! Mark door openings on the floor (Photo 2) to avoid putting glue under doors. Frame partition walls as you did the outside walls, again installing blocking between joists wherever it's needed. Add 2x6 backers on walls that meet partitions (Photo 1). They provide support and nailers for drywall. Before you tie the partition walls to exterior stud walls (non-masonry, without foam), staple 2-ft. wide strips of polyethylene over the 2x6 backers (Photo 2). That way you'll be able to seal this type of outside wall with a continuous moisture barrier in cooler climate zones.

In a basement, the top and bottom plates are often different lengths. That's because top plates may project past foundation walls and be longer or run into soffits and be shorter. (See both cases in Photo 3.) When you line up the plates to mark stud locations, be sure to account for differences (Photo 2).

Frame the door openings 2-1/2 in. higher and 2-1/2 in. wider than the door you're installing. This rough opening allows adequate space for the door plus its frame. Use a regular stud plus a trimmer on each side of the door (Photo 3). If you have low headroom, you may need to cut your doors down or special-order shorter ones. Remember to allow overhead space for the door trim. Trim that's either missing or ripped too narrow over doors with inadequate clearance will really detract from the appearance of the room.

TIP: Partially cut through the underside of the bottom plate at the edges of the door rough opening to make removal easier later on.

Frame around ceiling valves with 2x2s and leave an access hole in the drywall. Cover it with an air grate.

Frame around protruding plumbing with 2x6s nailed to adjoining studs. Frame cleanouts for an access panel.

Fur down ceilings with 2x4s so the drywall will conceal surface-mounted pipes and/or wires.

Nearly every basement has something that will project past finished surfaces. That can include beams, posts, drain lines, water piping or surface mounted wires. Its a simple matter to frame or fur out around projections and then drywall and finish them to blend in with surrounding surfaces. You'll have to maintain access to other things like electrical junction boxes and plumbing shutoffs and cleanouts. If you need future access to anything, just frame around it and cut out the opening when you drywall (Photo 1). Then, after taping and painting, screw a return air grate over the opening to conceal it but still have access. Return air grates are available in various sizes for about $5 at home centers. Check the sizes of available grates and frame the accesses slightly smaller.

Sometimes furring down part of or the entire ceiling is the best way to bury surface-mounted pipes or wires. Use either 2x4s or 2x2s running perpendicular to the joists to add 1-1/2 in. of dead space so you can drywall over the top of everything (Photo 3). Be sure to run all the wiring and other things you might want before hanging the drywall.

If you have a lot of deep projections from the ceiling or you need a lot of access, consider installing a suspended ceiling rather than drywalling. The downside is that you'll lose at least a few additional inches of ceiling height.

Finish round steel columns by framing around them with 2x4s. You can then face the framing with drywall or decorative wood as shown in the opening photo.

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Warning signs that you have waterproofing problems in your basement

Mold and Mildew Fungus that grows in damp and dark areas, and cause discoloration, or musty odors.

Moldy Odors This is the result of the decay process from mold, and dry rot.

Peeling Paint Peeling paint is a sign that you have moisture problems and waterproofing issues.

Damp Spots on Walls Water has absorbed through your walls.

White Substance on Basement Walls This is a chemical breakdown of the bonding agent that holds your walls together. This white substance is a sign of possible structural deterioration.

Cracked Walls Should be inspected to determine the exact cause.

Rust on Appliances or Furniture Like furnaces. Rust is caused by a wet environment and is the sign of waterproofing issues.

Dry Rot Black fungus grows mostly on walls or wooden surfaces, causing wood to decay.

To find toxic black mold solutions, visit StartRemodeling

You can use a waterproofing concrete sealer like HyrdaLoc and Homeseal. HomeSeal is formulated for new concrete only while HyrdaLoc is formulated for water problems or old concrete.

HyrdaLoc is a two-application process that is simply sprayed onto the concrete with a low-pressure (garden type) pump sprayer. You don't have to be afraid to use HyrdaLoc in your home because it is Non-toxic, Non-hazardous and Non-flammable. It has No VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds) - No Solvents. HyrdaLoc is a water-based, fast drying, penetrating concrete sealer that has no unpleasant odor. Clean-up is with clean tap water.

HyrdaLoc does a lot more than just waterproof your concrete. It solves potential health problems associated with a damp or wet basement. Migrating moisture creates a breeding ground for mold spores and mildew not to mention that "damp basement odor". It can greatly reduce the health risks associated with the transmission of Cancer Causing Radon. It stops Radon before it enters your home unlike fan systems that allow it in and then vent it back outside.

Whether you are finishing your basement to convert it into usable living space or just using it for storage, applying HyrdaLoc concrete waterproofing sealer will make the basement a useable, pleasant, safe and odor free area.

Click here to find out more about basement concrete sealers on ConcreteSealers.com

A wet cellar can dramatically reduce the value of your home. Studies show that most people won't even consider buying a home with water leakage. Selling a home with water leaks can easily result in as much as a 25% reduction in the sale price.

Even if you rarely have problems with dampness or flooding, it's best to solve the problem completely before doing any remodeling work. Permanent solutions can take time to implement. A good place to start is to talk to an independent home inspector who specializes in waterproofing problems.

Proper insulation is critical to creating a comfortable, dry basement. Besides keeping out the cold, basement insulation prevents condensation. The ground stays cool year round. It in turn keeps basement walls cool. When the warmer air in the room comes in contact with all those cool walls, it has to give up some of its moisture in the form of condensation. In fact, condensation is the primary source of the moisture that causes mold and mildew problems in basements. Effective insulation separates the warm air of the room from the cool walls, thereby preventing the moisture problems that stem from condensation. (see below the top-10 most common insulation mistakes in basements)

Perhaps the most fundamental and often overlooked mistake do-it-yourselfers make when insulating is neglecting to find out the most efficient R-value for their area and insulating accordingly. Other common mistakes are listed below.

1. Not providing for good air circulation between the roof and the insulation.

2. Installing fiberglass batting with the paper side (vapor barrier) facing toward the outside instead of toward the heated area.

3. Omitting a vapor barrier, which prevents accumulation of moisture between the batting and the underside of the roof or wall.

4. Puncturing the vapor barrier unnecessarily, or neglecting to puncture the vapor barrier of the top batt when installing two layers.

5. Distorting, compressing, or squeezing the fiberglass batt insulation out of shape.

6. Using paper-faced batting against a heat source like a chimney, a heating duct, etc.

7. Neglecting to get into all of the small spaces and corners with the insulation.

8. Covering eaves vents with insulation, thereby cutting off ventilation.

9. Making unnecessary trips up and down the attic stairs during installation. Assemble all tools and equipment in your work area prior to beginning the job.

10. Not using closed-cell (waterproof), rigid foam insulation panels on below grade installations

To Step Two: Basement Finishing Ideas

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Waterproofing Tips For Your Basement Remodel

Matrix Basement Systems offers an eco-friendly, paperless, seamless smooth panel advanced basement system that allows homeowners to design basements using their own personal style. Our unique process for finishing seams eliminates unsightly divider strips and vinyl tape. Our seamless panels connect so beautifully they are completely indistinguishable from the walls in the rest of your home.

Having been in business since 2009, we have helped turn over 1,300 basements into usable areas. Not only are we a basement finishing company, but we are also the manufacturer of the products we sell and install. We will work one-on-one with you to be sure that you are getting exactly what you want out of your basement remodeling project. We can provide you with wall panels to help turn this area of your home into a functional, comfortable, and inviting place.

Basement finishing is a cost-effective alternative to building a home addition. You can choose to use this solution to add on more living space to your home. We often see homeowners renovating the basement to add on extra bedrooms, a home office, a home gym, a family room, or a place to entertain guests. You have a wide variety of options to choose from when you are doing this kind of project, and we are here to help you every step of the way.

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Basement Finishing Chicago | Basement Remodeling, Flooring ...

If you are thinking of increasing your livable space by finishing your Basement in the Washington DC metro, then youve come to the right place! Michael & Son is proud to offer the most cost efficient way to add more livable space and give your room a new look. Buyers today look to the basement as a major asset to their home and a necessary living space. Finished basements also give a substantial return on the value of your Northern VA home.

The challenge of designing your Basement is identifying what each home wants in terms of functionality, placing appliances and spaces where they can be intuitively found, and keeping the space neat and attractive. All of these things can be achieved with good design.

Basement Design Process

You can start by getting a good idea for the type of look and style you want. If you dont know yet, browse around and get about ideas about, layouts and accessories that you enjoy. Then, contact us for a Basement Design Consultation with a certified Expert. You will be instructed by our own professional Basement Remodeling specialist as to what exact steps you need to take.

Why Choose A Michael & Son Basement?

Through the entire process of developing design drawings and building plans, determining your budget, construction and the final punch list, we work with you in a complete design/build package. We offer a complete solution for your Basement Remodeling Needs in the Washington DC Metro including Alexandria, Arlington, Fairfax, Vienna, Springfield, Ashburn, Leesburg, & Loudoun County VA.

One year warranty on all Basement Remodeling Services in the Washington area including Rockville, Bethesda, Gaithersburg, Silver Spring & Bowie MD.

See our Remodeling Portfolio

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Welcome to the South African Institute of Architects(SAIA)

The South African Institute of Architects and the Regional Institutes are committed to maintaining the highest standards of professionalism, integrity and competence.

Any member of the Institute, as defined in the Constitution, is required to uphold and subscribe to these objectives, and within the built environment, strive to improve the standards of health and safety for the protection and welfare of all members of society and to enhance with their professional skills, the natural environment to the benefit of all.

Members of the Institute, registered as professional architects, are educated and trained to provide leadership, critical judgement, specialist knowledge, skills and aptitude, for the design and development of the built environment.

Code of Ethics establish principles for the conduct of members in pursuance of these goals.

Browse around we hope you enjoy your stay!

Positions Available for Talented Designers, Urban Designers, Graduates, Project Architects, Technologists & 3d max visualizers in various offices

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OUR LOCAL GEOGRAPHY (however, we design projects ALL over the USA and the World):

At the south end of the Appalachian chain of mountains are the Blue Ridge Mountains. Several small mountain villages are located in that area. We are a residential architect there: we are one of a handful of Cashiers NC architects. Down US Highway 64 east, is Lake Toxaway. Not quite to far to the east, coming toward Cashiers, is Sapphire. In the other direction (west on 64) is Highlands NC.

Going back in the other direction on 64 (farther east) , is Brevard. Down in South Carolina, lies Seneca SC, and a way to the west down there, is Greenville. A little closer to Asheville, along 64, is Mills River. There is a small town between Lake Toxaway and Asheville : Etowah.

There is more, much more in the Western North Carolina mountains and in the Piedmont: In the larger city a bit more east (a big city to us village-dwellers), is Asheville. A ways to the far east is the even larger metropolitan area: Charlotte NC. We may design anything there, as we are also commercial architects and our senior staff architect, Rand Soellner AIA/NCARB, was co-project manager, co-designer and detailer on a significant mid-rise condominium housing project in metro Charlotte, North Carolina.

And there are still more WNC places: To the north of Cashiers lies Cullowhee. To the NW is Franklin. East of this is Sylva, North Carolina. To the northeast of Cashiers is Waynesville. To the northeast of that is Canton. Just south of Asheville is Fairview, NC. Beyond Asheville lies Mount Mitchell.

We are available to provide residential design services in the following places: Moscow, Paris, the Cliffs, Cashiers NC, Highlands. We also work as: Old Edwards Club Architects, Highlands Cove Architects and Luxury Residential Architects.

In addition, we provide comprehensive services in these roles: Log Home Designers, Luxury Home Design, Energy Star Architects, Healthy Home Architecture.

ADDITIONAL AREAS WHERE WE PROVIDE CUSTOM HOUSE DESIGN SERVICES:

We also will design houses that happen to be located in: Seneca SC, Franklin, Sylva NC, and the Biltmore area. We also will assist you if you are in Florida, Virginia, Hollywood, Montana, Orlando.

We are designing an estate residence in West Virginia now, in the Daniels/Glade Springs area and also design for these other places Miami, Palm Beach, and Ocala FL . Colorado is one of our targeted market areas, as people from there have told us our house designs fit in well in that mountainous region. So, we are pleased to offer our skills in these areas: Aspen CO, Telluride, Colorado City.

Also, Atlanta, Georgia is nearby our base of operations, as is Macon, Newnan, and further south, Savannah.

And finally, we will design custom houses for you in these places: Buckhead, Richmond VA, Montana, Big Sky, Jackson Hole, Beverly Hills, California.

WHEREVER YOUR SITE IS LOCATED, WE WILL BE HAPPY TO PROVIDE A DESIGN FOR YOU.

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La Guaira / Valle del Pino. Image Jos Toms Franco

Between Sunday, May 17 and Monday, May 18 projects developed under the second phase of Espacios de Paz(Spaces of Peace) were inaugurated in five cities across Venezuela. A genuine exercise in participative design, 20 Latin American architecture groups worked for five weeks with communities in neighborhoods dominated by violence, high dropout rates and crime to convert deteriorated and abandoned spaces into public places of peace.

For each project, four groups of young architects worked together to carry outa process of dialogue, research, design, and ultimatelythe construction of either an athletic, social or educational facility to be administrated by the local community. Espacios de Paz is coordinated by the local office of PICO Estudio, with guidance from public institutions and under the leadership of Isis Ochoa, the High Presidential Commissioner for Peace and Life.

ArchDaily en Espaol Editors, Nicols Valencia M.and Jos Toms Franco, were invited by PICO Estudio to document and view the five projects in their final phase of construction and speak with the architects and community representatives about the development of the projects and some of the challenges faced in the process.

Learn more about each of thefive projects after the break.

http://www.archdaily.com/640577/espacios-de-paz-2015-5-cities-5-communities-20-architecture-collectives Equipo Editorial

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Barquisimeto | ArchDaily