Palm Springs transitions from desert retreat to hipster haven

Baby boomers have been flocking to Palm Springs for its racket- and club-swinging recreations, its warm, dry weather, its trademark mid-century modern architecture and design. The slow and easy lifestyle prompted many to buy second homes and retire here.

But that community is witnessing a significant change in their desert oasis bubble. New restaurants are serving craft beer and flaunting edgy design. Golden Era hotels are going under the knife with dramatically modern face-lifts. And canyon hiking trails are trodden by bearded urbanites in designer sunglasses and neckerchiefs.

A new Palm Springs is taking shape, one where a feverish, youthful energy is almost palpable in the desert heat as millennials swarm to festivals like Coachella, Joshua Tree Music Festival and the more recent Splash House, and to frequent the spate of cool new boutique hotels and bars.

Heres a look at the future Palm Springs.

A DJ holds court at Splash House Music Festival.Photo: Oliver Walker, Splash House Music Festival

Five years ago, the Ace Hotel was the only option I considered when meeting with friends, says 30-year-old Donovan Funkey, who grew up in Palm Springs. But now friends come to him. In February 2013, Donovan opened Bar, a cocktail lounge with an indoor/outdoor performance space for DJs and live bands. It filled a void between staid hotel bars and not-so-glam watering holes for the swelling hipster scene.

Brunch at Hacienda Cantina.Photo: Dre Naylor

The resurgence of the town has attracted Splash House Music Festival, an annual weekend pool party that happens in August and spans multiple locations, including the new Hard Rock Hotel Palm Springs and The Saguaro hotel, as well as Hacienda Cantina & Beach Club, an 8,000-square-foot outdoor venue with pool, cabanas, three bars and a sprawling lawn.

Thanks to its partnership with Goldenvoice a division of AEG that has produced the worlds most famous music festival, Coachella Splash House features top acts like Moby, Cut Copy and Chromeo. All Splash House venues are still party houses throughout the year, joining the ranks of notoriously trendy, DJ-fronted weekend-resort pool scenes like Ace Hotel, Riviera Palm Springs and Skylark.

Lena Headey.Photo: KYLE ROVER/startraksphoto.com

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Palm Springs transitions from desert retreat to hipster haven