Options abound for amaryllis care

Question: Now that my amaryllis are about done for the season, when do I cut them back? What is the best way to keep them healthy?

Answer: You are growing minimal-care plants with lots of options. First, many amaryllis produce seed pods at the top of their flower heads. You can leave them to develop and sow the seeds or remove them. Whether they are removed now or when the seeds mature, the thick stalks are cut close to the plant.

Some gardeners like to remove floppy, out-of-bounds leaves and those that have declined during the winter and early spring months at this time. Now would also be a good time to divide the bulb clusters if needed. Then keep the plants growing with feedings in May and during mid-August using a slow-release fertilizer. Keep the plantings moist until October, when they can begin to dry some to encourage future blooms.

Q: My squash are finally producing fruits and now the worms are eating them. What should I do?

A: You deserve a share of the crop too, so it is time to take action. Regretfully, you cannot hand-pick all the worms, the immature stages of moths, from the plantings but some natural controls can help. Try the insecticide Thuricide or spinosad used by organic growers and follow label instructions. The latter product can be found at local independent garden centers under several brand names. Both products need a few days to provide effective control and most likely repeat applications.

Q: We have a sandy hill in our backyard that needs something besides grass. What would make a good ground cover?

A: Perhaps one of the most rapid-growing, site-tolerant ground covers is the Asiatic jasmine. It grows in sun or shade, has an extensive root system and once established is drought tolerant. It grows about 10 to 12 inches tall but does need to be edged along walkways and clipped away from other plantings. Other good choices are perennial peanut and mimosa or sensitive plant. The latter is a Florida native. Both grow best in full sun and tolerate varying soil conditions.

Q: We have quite a large rubber plant in a container. Can it be planted in the ground?

A: The real question should be, how cold does it get in your area? Shrub and tree forms of the genus Ficus including the weeping, fiddle-leaf and similar large-leaf figs are not very cold hardy. Yes, they can grow in our local soils and many are planted. They survive the mild winters and warm sites but are often damaged by severe cold. Many then grow back from lower trunks or buds near the ground. If you do plant a rubber plant, give it room to grow as many form large shrubs or trees.

Q: Those large pods forming on the tabebuia trees make a mess when they shed seeds and fall to the ground. Can the pods be removed as they form after flowering?

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Options abound for amaryllis care