Pittsburgh, PA (PRWEB) December 12, 2013

"Installing sheets of fire-code drywall on the ceiling is hard work, as it requires a lot of heaving lifting," said an inventor from Salinas, Calif. "To make this job easier, I came up with this idea."

He developed the DRYWALL LADDER to offer a convenient way to lift up light construction-paneling materials. The unit holds the material steady so that it can be nailed or screwed. The design reduces the physical stress and strain normally involved, and it saves time and effort. Additionally, the invention is ideal for use with sheets of drywall and plywood.

The original design was submitted to the San Francisco office of InventHelp. It is currently available for licensing or sale to manufacturers or marketers. For more information, write Dept. 12-SNK-117, InventHelp, 217 Ninth Street, Pittsburgh, PA 15222, or call (412) 288-1300 ext. 1368. Learn more about InventHelp's Invention Submission Services at http://www.InventHelp.com.

# # #

Go here to read the rest:
InventHelp Inventor Develops Drywall/Plywood Installation Aid (SNK-117)

Dear Ed: I plan on buying my first house in the near future and want to have a rain-style shower head in the bathroom. Depending on what I buy, I'm not sure if I'll have to build my shower stall from scratch, or adapt a rain head to an existing shower. What's the difference between installing new or adapting to old when it comes to rain-style shower heads? Steve, Utah

A: Not surprisingly, rain-style shower heads are designed to rain down on the user. So, basically you need to move the head higher and more to the middle of the shower stall to create a raining effect.

For new stalls, you can install a short shower arm pipe that sticks out vertically through the ceiling; then you can attach your rain shower head to that threaded pipe. But make sure you have enough ceiling height for this type of installation. If ceiling height is a concern, you can upgrade to a flush-mount rain head. While pricey, flush-mount ceiling heads have no exposed pipes and are easy to clean.

For existing shower stalls, to keep the costs down you can simply install a longer shower arm extension pipe onto the existing water connection. Then, mount your shower head to that pipe. However, height and shower arm stability can be an issue. In that case, you may also want to upgrade and install a rain shower water column system. This unit still attaches to the existing water connection, but the pipe column is secured to the wall with special anchors. The arched shower arm can extend up and over to the middle of the stall with more height and security. Bottom line: New or old, when installing a rain-style shower head, upgrading can avoid a flood of problems!

Master contractor/plumber Ed Del Grande is known internationally as the author of the book "Ed Del Grande's House Call," the host of TV and Internet shows, and a LEED green associate. Visit eddelgrande.com or write eadelg@cs.com. Always consult local contractors and codes.

See the original post:
Plumber: Rain-style shower heads should be centered, higher to create desired effect

State College, PA The increasing popularity of Fiber To The Enclosure (FTTE) structured cabling design and plug-n-play network components require mounting solutions that combine flexibility with security. Oberon's latest addition to its line of telecommunications enclosures provides both, offering a mounting solution suitable for a variety of equipment, physically secure yet easy accessible to authorized technicians. Convenient installation and maintenance is especially important in FTTE installations where equipment is often located in high-traffic areas.

The Model 1074-04 is a locking, 2 x 2 suspended ceiling, plenum-rated, general-purpose zone enclosure. It is designed as a consolidation point for securing pre-terminated plug-n-play copper and fiber optic cable terminations and splitters in a Fiber To The Enclosure (FTTE) structured cabling design. It can also be used to secure active equipment including Optical Network Terminals (ONTs), small workgroup switches, wireless access points, and DAS remote access units (RAUs).

The 1074 is the only plenum rated enclosure which has fire-stopped openings large enough for the multi-fiber array modules and multi-copper connector modules used in pre-terminated solutions. The aesthetic, white powder-coated aluminum enclosure comes with 2U (Model 1074-04) or 4U (Model 1074-06) rack mounting brackets.

For more information regarding Oberon's line of wireless and telecom enclosures, please call 1-877-867-2312 or visit http://oberonwireless.com. The website includes an Enclosure Finder for viewing the mounting solutions recommended for specific wireless access points, DAS remote units, or multimedia gateways.

ABOUT OBERON, INC. - Since 1999, Oberon, Inc. has been providing products and services to integrators and end users of wireless LAN "Wi-Fi" network products. Oberons wireless enclosures and antenna products are used where the RF coverage, infrastructure security, environmental robustness, and aesthetics are paramount in the network design and implementation. Oberon offers ceiling-mounted telecommunications enclosures for Ethernet switches, patch panels, wireless controllers, and other networking and A/V components - ideal for structured cabling, Fiber-to-the-Enclosure (FTTE), and PON deployments.

Oberons products and services have helped thousands of integrators and end-users in the global healthcare, government, transportation and logistics, education, retail, hospitality, and manufacturing achieve reliable indoor network connection mobility.

For more information regarding this press release, please contact 1-877-867-2312 or sas@oberonwireless.com.

Read the original here:
Telecommunications Enclosure offers flexibility, security.

North Andover, MA (PRWEB) December 12, 2013

L-com, Inc., a designer and manufacturer of wired and wireless connectivity products, announced today that it will support the latest IEEE wireless standard 802.11ac with a series of indoor ceiling mount and outdoor panel style WiFi antennas that feature 2.4-5.8 GHz operation.

802.11ac offers up to 1 Gbps wireless transmissions and the ability to support up to eight MIMO spatial streams as well as 80 MHz channel bandwidth.

The HG2458-4SDC-6 series ceiling mount 802.11ac MIMO antennas feature 4 dBi of gain and six independent spatially diverse antennas in a single package. Three are designed to operate at 2.4 GHz and three are designed to operate at 4.9 to 5.8 GHz. The HG2458-3SDC-3 series ceiling mount antennas feature spatial diversity between three independent/integral antenna ports providing better wireless reception in areas susceptible to the affects of multi-path interference.

The HG2458-14DP-3NF outdoor rated panel antenna features three Independent 14 dBi antennas with two vertical and one horizontally polarized element. Other features include a heavy-duty UV-resistant plastic radome ideal for all-weather indoor or outdoor operation and a tilt and swivel mast mount kit which allows for quick installation at various degrees of up/down tilt.

We strive to offer our customers support for the latest technologies. Our new 802.11ac antennas provide high speed wireless connectivity as well as high quality construction which are a hallmark of L-coms products, said Ken Burgner, Wireless Product Manager.

L-coms 802.11ac compliant antennas are listed below and can be ordered directly from the L-com.com web site or by calling L-com sales at 1-800-341-5266.

2.4 GHz / 5.8 GHz 3 dBi MIMO Ceiling Antennas 2.4 GHz / 5.8 GHz 4 dBi MIMO Ceiling Mount Antennas 2.4 GHz / 5.8 GHz Triple Element, Dual Polarized Panel Antenna

For high-res versions of these images suitable for print publication click the links below.

http://www.l-com.com/lcom_emails/2013/121213/HG2458-3SDC-3NF.JPG http://www.l-com.com/lcom_emails/2013/121213/HG2458-4SDC-6-_.JPG http://www.l-com.com/lcom_emails/2013/121213/HG2458-14DP-3NF.JPG

Go here to read the rest:
L-com Supports Gigabit WiFi With 802.11ac Antennas

home section Interior Design Housekeeping Entertaining Home Improvement Gardening & Plants Landscaping eHow Home & Garden Building & Remodeling Historic Restoration How to Install Tin Ceiling Tiles

Andrea Campbell

Andrea Campbell is the author of 12 nonfiction books on a variety of topics. She is also an e-instructor, editor and columnist who has been writing professionally since 1991. Campbell, the daughter of a builder, writes frequently about home improvement. She uses her degree in criminal justice to write about forensic science and criminal law.

Tin ceiling tiles can provide an authentic Victorian look to both classic, and traditional decor. They are also a solution to camouflage severely damaged ceilings. The downside is that the installation is quite difficult. Following is just some very basic information about doing it yourself, along with some alternatives.

Know that tin ceiling tiles come in several sizes, for example, 3 x 6 12-inch, 24-inch, and other panels sizes but these are fairly standard. A 24 x 24-inch panel will cover 4 square feet. There are three versions for true tin tiles--snaplock, drop-in and nail up.

Understand that the original tin ceiling tiles are created from .010 gauge tin-plated steel or aluminum alloy. The tin will rust, and the aluminum resists corrosion. Whatever the makeup, the metal edges on them are extremely sharp and you will be subject to many cuts if you don't wear gloves or handle correctly. For that reason, vinyl gloves are not recommended.

Keep in mind that primed tin panels can be painted first, with two coats. For intricate designs one color is suggested. For the simpler tiles, they can be antiqued to achieve a patina, just as you would with any other antiquing project--wiping a darker glaze over the paint to accentuate the cracks, crevices and details. Lighter colors are suggested as the tiles are intricately embossed and anything too dark will detract from the design patterns. There are also pre-finished tiles (much more expensive) that simulate copper, chrome, brass, steel and white.

Know that traditionally, tin ceilings are installed onto plywood substrate. You will need to erect scaffolding by using sawhorses and heavy planking. You will need to be able to work at a higher level.

Locate the center of the room. Using a chalk line, if you divide the ceiling into a half, then quarters, you can begin in the middle. (Look for 90-degree angles.) It is highly suggested you work from the center of the room out.

Keep in mind that the cornice pieces will be installed first. Doing it this way ensures the flange opening will be nailed to the plywood and the edge of the cornice is attached to the wall with strapping supports or the manufacturer-supplied aluminum strips. One caveat, there are also directions that suggest you apply molding after ceiling installation (check with your manufacturer).

Continue reading here:
How to Install Tin Ceiling Tiles | eHow

home section Interior Design Housekeeping Entertaining Home Improvement Gardening & Plants Landscaping eHow Home & Garden Building & Remodeling Ceilings Ceiling Installation Instructions

Adam Quinn

Adam Quinn has been writing since 2008. His articles have appeared in the "Journal of Humanistic Psychology." Quinn holds a Master of Social Work from the University of Washington in Seattle, where his focus of study was counseling combat veterans with post-traumatic stress disorder.

If you're planning to refinish your basement, a drop ceiling may be an inexpensive, and decorative option. Despite an institutional stigma, drop ceilings can be obtained in a variety of styles and colors. A drop ceiling consists of a grid of metal runners and hangers that suspend 2-by-4-foot foam panels. The panel system provides convenient access above the ceiling and, if damaged, individual panels can be replaced quickly. You will need at least 4 inches of clearance between the old ceiling or bare joists, and the new drop ceiling.

Locate and mark the joists using a stud finder, if a previous ceiling exists. Measure the distance from the floor to the ceiling joists at various points to check for slope in the ceiling. If you discover a slope, choose the lowest ceiling joist height as the reference point for your ceiling measurements.

Measure 4 inches down from the lowest ceiling joist, and mark the wall at this height using a pencil. Draw a line on each wall in the room, using the level and a pencil. Check the accuracy of your line by running a leveled string from the lowest joist to the wall at different points along the pencil line.

Locate and mark the wall studs along each wall of the room, using a stud finder.

Mount the drop ceiling molding to the walls at the stud locations, using 6d nails and a hammer. Align the top of the molding along the pencil lines. Overlap the molding for inside corners. Butt the ends of the molding pieces together when connecting multiple pieces across a long wall. Cut the molding to fit, using tin snips.

Measure across the room, in a direction parallel to the joists. Divide this measurement by the ceiling panel length -- typically 4 feet -- to determine the number of panels that will fit across the ceiling. Divide the remainder of this calculation by two to determine the short panel length at either end of the ceiling.

Measure and mark this short panel length, from the corner of the wall perpendicular to the joists. From this mark, measure and mark 4-foot increments across the wall. Mirror these measurements along the opposite wall perpendicular to the joists. Snap a chalk line across the joists or old ceiling to connect the measurement points. These lines will be used to align main ceiling runners.

See more here:
Ceiling Installation Instructions | eHow - eHow | How to ...

CEILING INSTALLATION

1. Clean the metal sheets with denatured alcohol and wipe them dry before installation (steel only). The prepainted white, chrome, copper plated, brass plated and stainless steel all have a PVC film that should be removed before or during installation. Heavy leather gloves should be worn when handling and installing metal. The edges are very sharp.

2. To begin: Nail furring strips to the ceiling around the perimeter of the room 1-1/2" from the walls, using resin-coated nails. Locate the center of the ceiling and bisect it by snapping a chalk line at right angles to the ceiling beams. This insures that the ceiling panels will be nailed into the beams. Working out from this line, snap chalk lines at 24" intervals. Place the edge of a furring strip along each line and nail it to the ceiling. Repeat the process, nailing new furring strips at 12" intervals. Level the ceiling, raising low areas by inserting shims between the furring strips and the ceiling or install 3/8" plywood.

3. Install Plywood: As an alternative, you can install 3/8" plywood or comparable material across the entire ceiling. Tin ceiling panels are held in place with special cone head finish nails, which have to be driven into wood; drywall or plaster will not do.

4. Find the ceiling's center: Tin panels are installed starting from the center and working out. To find center, stretch a chalk line between opposite corners of the ceiling and snap a line on the plywood or furring strips. Do the same with the other corners. The lines cross at the center of the ceiling. Now snap a line through this center point parallel with the room's longest wall. This is the baseline for the length of the room. Finish by snapping another line through the center point that is 90 degrees to the first baseline.

5. Plan the layout: The ideal layout should be "balanced" so that the panels that meet one wall are the same size as the panels touching the opposite wall. To find where the center piece will land, work out how many panels will fit along the baselines. Be sure to account for the overlap, typically 3/8". Then adjust the center panel's position to create the desirable balance along the ceiling perimeter.

6. Orient the edges: Because the panels overlap, most will have exposed edges. Installing the panels so the edges face away from a room's main doorway will make them less noticeable.

7. Close the seams: Tighten up any open seams by tapping against the overlapping edge with a hammer and soft pine block (above).

8. Coat the metal with any color oil based paint: Unfinished steel will rust if it is not protected from humidity. For best results use clear gloss enamel or aluminum paint by Rustoleum.

The sheets have small dimples along the edges called beads. You line up the sheets by overlapping these beads (like a ball and socket). Nail the sheets on the bead every 6". The exception to this is when you are joining sheets; use a flat head nail to one side of the bead to allow the overlapping sheet to be nailed on the bead. Nail down the center length of the sheet every 12" before nailing the edges.

See the original post:
Installation Guides for Ceilings - Shanker Industries

home section Interior Design Housekeeping Entertaining Home Improvement Gardening & Plants Landscaping eHow Home & Garden Building & Remodeling Ceilings Ceiling Joist Installation

Anne Rose

Anne Rose is a communicator with a Bachelor of Arts degree in English editorial from Northwestern University, with expertise in interactive media, event marketing and public speaking. She is a freelance writer and blogs, tweets and webs for various clients.

Ceiling joists, or ceiling beams, are wooden members with two prime functions. They connect the walls of a room together, completing the "box" of a building, and they support the ceiling of the room. Ceiling joists shouldn't be confused with floor joists, which also support the first-level ceiling. The only place ceiling joists are installed is where there is no living space above. Ceiling joists are installed after the walls are erect.

The size and spacing of the ceiling joist members are based upon the span, or length, from wall to wall and the weight of the ceiling finish. The ceiling will be drywall, plaster or other fire-rated assembly. A qualified and licensed design professionalarchitect or engineershould be contracted to calculate the size and installation specifics of the ceiling joists based upon span and ceiling type, along with bridging specifications and attachment details. Calculation of size of ceiling joists takes into consideration the structural design, load vs. span calculations, attachment specifications and building code requirements. Ceiling joists in small span areas, like a closet, can be as small as 2-by-6 dimensional lumber, spaced 2 feet apart. In long span areas, ceiling joists may be 2-by-12 dimensional lumber, spaced 12 inches apart. A design professional may also specify engineered lumber, like I-joists, which are wooden I-beams assembled by a manufacturer. With all of these variables, designing and selecting materials for ceiling joists without professional qualifications can lead to dangerous failures in the installed ceiling joist system.

Ceiling joists are installed on the top of the wall at each side of the room. Ceiling joists must sit with full bearing atop each wall. If the wall has a 2-by-4 top member, the ceiling joist must sit fully on top of it and bear 3 1/2 inches on the same (a 2-by-4 member is 3 5/8 inches wide). Likewise, with a 2-by-6 wall, the ceiling joist must sit totally on top of it, at 5 1/2 inches. Ceiling joists are toe-nailed to the top wall member, with 16-penny nails, or manufactured metal accessory wall ties as designed. Ceiling joists are not nailed to the wall members. If the roof and attic construction is above the ceiling joist installation, the ceiling joists must run parallel to the rafter construction and be attached to the roof rafters and wall top to create a tie condition.

Solid bridging is recommended to stiffen ceiling joists. These are solid wooden blocks placed and nailed between the ceiling joists in a straight line, continuous from wall to wall. Most installations call for bridging to be made of the same size lumber as the ceiling joist members and spaced at a maximum of 8 feet on center. The bridging can be placed closer together if specified by a design professional. Bridging transfers weight from one joist to another to aid in deflection and sagging. Bridging also helps to avoid drywall cracking due to deflection.

Installing a ceiling joist for hanging sheetrock requires access to the attic or the interior of the ceiling cavity in two-story or...

Installing ceiling tiles is simple if you have a straight, flat ceiling surface. Some ceilings have surfaces that are a bit more...

A ceiling joist is a structural member used in building the frame of a house or building. It provides a means of...

Originally posted here:
Ceiling Joist Installation | eHow - eHow | How to Videos ...

home section Interior Design Housekeeping Entertaining Home Improvement Gardening & Plants Landscaping eHow Home & Garden Home Repair & Maintenance Home Maintenance How to Install Drop Ceiling

Lisa Wampler

Lisa Wampler began writing professionally in 2005 and has published on various websites. She specializes in content writing and search engine optimization, drawing from previous positions as an account manager and a social media manager for an SEO company.

A drop ceiling is a metal grid that suspends from the original ceiling with metal wires. The grid holds ceiling tiles. This is a great way to reduce the height of high ceilings to help save on energy costs. It's also a great way to hide overhead plumbing modifications that don't fit into the ceiling. Expect the installation process to take a full weekend and employ a friend to help you install everything. A second person will make the task much easier.

Measure the square footage of the room at the height where you want the drop ceiling to rest. Use a tape measure and take care to ensure accuracy in your measurements.

Draw the room to scale on graph paper. Decide if you want to use 2-by-2-foot square tiles or 2-by-4-foot tiles. The first type requires more work when installing the metal grid. Use the square footage and the drawing to determine the total wall trim requirements, plus the main tee, cross tee and tile requirements.

Secure the wall trim to the walls. Trim pieces are strips of metal bent into 90-degree angles along their length. One side of the trim secures against the wall and the other side acts as a lip for holding the tiles in place. When completed, you have a ring of trim around the entire room at the same level. Place the trim against the wall at a level position and secure it with screws or nails. If you need to cut pieces of trim to length, use a sharp coping saw or hacksaw.

Cut the main tees to length so they rest on the lips of the trim pieces. Main tees have an upside-down T shape. The flat portion of the T rests on the trim pieces while the vertical portion has holes for connecting the suspension wire. The flat side of the T also acts as a lip to help hold the tiles. Install the main tees 2 feet apart going across the widest part of the room.

Thread eye bolts into the original ceiling directly above the main tees every 12-to-24 inches.

Tie a metal wire to each eyebolt, then tie the other end of the wire to the holes in the main tees. This ensures the main tees stay suspended and the trim pieces don't bear the weight of the ceiling.

Go here to read the rest:
How to Install Drop Ceiling | eHow

WA owned, with over 10 years experience in the industry, ADK specialises in all types of ceiling and wall installations for residential and commercial projects. New installations, repairs to existing structures, cornice, flushing, partitions, metal frame suspended ceilings, tile and grid ceilings, Gyprock ceiling installation, drywall, insulation.......

We often find our customers need a hand in finishing off their project, so we also supply and fit doors, frames, skirting and door furniture.

More recently we have undertaken outdoor projects including decking and outdoor bars.

Why would you choose us over any other ceiling companies?

Well for a start, we know how difficult it is to fit in time for a quote during working hours, so we can fit around your schedule. Were even contactable on a weekend! We are committed to completing your project on time, to budget and endeavour to leave your home as we found it; clean and tidy.

All our materials come from reputable suppliers and we can source materials on your behalf if you would like to attempt projects of your own.

If youre not sure how best to tackle your ceiling or wall issue, were happy to offer our advice, even if that means theres no work in it for ourselves. We follow a consultative approach to ensure you know all your options and the cost implications. Ultimately we want you to be happy with the end result, aesthetically and financially.

So whats our business?

Residential renovations and repairs;

Home and building insurance quotes and repairs;

See the article here:
Ceiling installation companies Perth, WA. Quality work needed ...