The Morrison Historic Preservation Commission (MHPC) is applying to nominate an appropriate portion of the communitys commercial district to be listed on the National Register of Historic Places (NRHP), a listing of spaces, structures or areas recognized to be of national historic, cultural or architectural importance.

With the assistance of our consultants, the MHPC has spent months researching and writing the substance of our application. In the hopes that the community will find the information contained therein both interesting and informative, we will be running, one at a time, in no particular order, over the next year, the architectural and historical description of each building included.

Contributing Category: The term contributing means that the structure lies within an historic district and adds to the architectural or historic significance of the same as a whole. If it is within the boundaries of the district, but does not so supplement, it is deemed non-contributing.

The second report is for the nomination of the Whiteside Hotel.

130 East Main Street

Date: 1865

Large freestanding three-story corner building with unpainted brick exterior. The non-original asymmetrical storefront of the main elevation (south) consists of a recessed glass and aluminum double-door entrance (Kawneer), aluminum display windows, and brick veneer. A retractable fabric awning is immediately above the storefront with the transom area covered with vertical aluminum siding (the siding continues along the side elevation).

The upper facade features five segmental arch window openings per story. The second story windows are rectangular replacements while the third story windows are historic segment top wood double-hungs. A deeply projecting wood cornice with scrollwork brackets spans the width of the parapet and wraps around the corner onto the side and rear elevations.

The long side elevation (east) lacks first story openings instead featuring a non-historic painted mural which spans the entire length of the side wall. The upper facade has eleven window openings per story, with replacement second story windows and four-over-four segment top wood double-hung windows above.

The rear elevation (north) is similar to the side but with three window openings per story (one at second story is a door). There is also a non-historic loading dock and rear entrance. A three story concrete block elevator shaft is near the northwest corner.

Read more:
MHPV Nominates Whiteside Hotel, Ramsey & Milne Bldg. for National Register of Historic Places

home section Interior Design Housekeeping Entertaining Home Improvement Gardening & Plants Landscaping eHow Home & Garden Building & Remodeling Exterior Remodeling How to Replace T-111 Siding on House

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T-111 siding is untreated. The paint covering the siding is the only protection the siding has from moisture intrusion. Even the most well painted siding can become damaged by moisture. Replacing the T-111 siding on your house is a major project that is best broken down into sections. Houses with T-111 rarely have sheathing under the siding and when you remove the T-111, the studs and wall insulation will be exposed. Therefore, the T-111 siding you remove needs to be replaced the same day to avoid disruption of the insulation or water damage to the wood studs and sub-floor.

Remove all the trim from the wall having the siding replaced. Wedge the pry bar under the trim. Pry away from the wall to lift the trim and loosen the nails holding the trim in place. Work the pry bar along the entire length of trim.

Inspect the installation of the windows. If the windows are mounted on top of the T-111, you will need to remove the windows before proceeding.

Determine the lap of the siding. Siding is installed in one direction. The last piece of siding installed will have an outside lap. This is the first piece of siding that you need to remove. Work the pry bar under the siding at the outside corner. Pry away from the wall. Work your way along the vertical length of the siding. When the corner is free, pull the siding away from the house, removing nails as necessary.

Apply the vapor barrier to the studs. Staple the vapor barrier to each stub to hold it in place. Remove the vapor barrier from window and door openings. Staple the cut ends to the framing studs located around the window or door openings.

Measure, layout, and cut the first piece of T-111 siding. Nail the T-111 siding to the wall. Start the first nail 2 inches from the edge of the siding and then place the nails 12 inches apart.

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The Galt City Council on Dec. 17 approved $18,000 in additional funding to put toward the demolition of the former Jaycee Hall at 405 Fifth St.

The contractor hired to do the work discovered lead-based paint on the exterior walls of the building. Galt Public Works Director Steven Winkler said the paint, hidden under the vinyl siding, requires special handling and disposing at a hazardous waste facility.

Winkler said the contractor will handle all of that work and cap expenses for dealing with the lead paint at $16,500.

The city earlier this year paid nearly $1,600 for a visual inspection.

We did not require that they do any destructive investigation in what might lie under the wall boards, within the floors, et cetera, Winkler said.

He added that it would have been advantageous for the city to spend more up front to better determine the actual cost to raze the building.

What irritates me the most about this is, if you have lead-based paint on the inside, youve got a pretty good chance its on the outside, Council Member Mark Crews said. They should have thought about that.

Council Member Curt Campion said none of the alternatives, which included stopping demolition and rebidding the work, looked good to him.

The council in March agreed to spend up to $20,000 to demolish the building but retain ownership of the land.

Winkler said at the March meeting that the building has major issues, including inadequate roof support and substandard plumbing and electrical, and needs extensive renovation of the kitchen and bathrooms.

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City to spend more to demolish former Jaycee Hall

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home section Interior Design Housekeeping Entertaining Home Improvement Gardening & Plants Landscaping eHow Home & Garden Home Repair & Maintenance Exterior Home Repair How to Repair Aluminum RV Siding

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Many recreational vehicles are installed with aluminum siding, as aluminum is known to be durable and weather-resistant. This aluminum siding installed on recreational vehicles is the same aluminum installed on homes, so the damages are similar on both. The damages on aluminum siding usually include dents, scratches, corrosion and fading. These disfigurements can be caused by weather elements, improper maintenance or minor accidents while traveling. Fortunately, these flaws can be easily repaired with the proper tools.

Pop any dents out of the aluminum siding by first drilling a 1/8-inch hole in the center of the dent with a power drill. Attach a washer to the end of a 1-inch self-tapping screw, and then insert the screw into the drilled hole. Grab the washer with pliers and pull to remove the dent.

Repair any scratches on the siding by lightly sanding the scratched area with sandpaper. Apply a metal primer on the scratch using a paintbrush and let the area dry. Paint over the primer with an acrylic latex paint matching the color of your siding.

Remove rust and corrosion from your aluminum siding by rubbing the problem areas with steel wool. Use a paintbrush to apply metal primer over the areas to prevent further corrosion.

Remove faded areas on your aluminum siding by spraying the siding with water. If the faded areas still remain, repaint the siding with a high-quality, acrylic latex paint with a flat finish using a roller brush. Choose light- or medium-colored hues to camouflage any imperfections in the siding.

Any RV thats out in the weather or on the road to a campground is going to get scratches, dents and dings...

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home section Interior Design Housekeeping Entertaining Home Improvement Gardening & Plants Landscaping eHow Home & Garden Building & Remodeling Exterior Remodeling How to Replace Mobile Home Siding

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Cameron Easey has over 15 years customer service experience, with eight of those years in the insurance industry. He has earned various designations from organizations like the Insurance Institute of America and LOMA. Easey earned his Bachelor of Arts degree in political science and history from Western Michigan University.

When the siding on your mobile home is getting old, discolored or has fallen off, replace it with new siding. The process is similar to replacing siding on a regular house. Several types of replacement material are available, such as vinyl. Your first task is to determine the type and color of siding you want.

Remove the existing siding from the exterior of the mobile home with a pry bar. Insert the pry bar under the siding and pry out to separate the nails from the exterior walls. Start at the bottom and work your way toward the top.

Pull out nails that do not come out easily with a nail puller and a hammer.

Measure the length of the exterior walls with a tape measure. Transfer the measurements to the vinyl siding and starter strip. Mark where they will be cut with a felt tip marker.

Cut the vinyl siding and starter strip on the marks with a circular saw.

Measure up from the bottom of the first exterior wall the width of the vinyl siding and subtract inch. Place a nail into the lower corner of the wall at the measurement.

Attach a chalk line to the nail and go to the other end of the wall. Pull the chalk line taut and place a level on the line. Snap the chalk line on the wall where level is indicated. Repeat steps 5 and 6 for the other exterior walls.

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