Home Builder Developer - Interior Renovation and Design

Our experts prefer crushed stone for the base rather than naturally occurring gravel dug from a pit. Crushed stone is a little more expensive. However, it provides better drainage, and because of the sharper angles on the stone, it requires less compacting, and once its compacted, it stays that way.

Joe and Jake have found that crushed stone sized between 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch is best suited to handle the heaving forces created by the harsh freeze/thaw cycles here in Minnesota. Avoid rounded stones like pea gravel or river rock; they dont form strong interlocking bonds like angular stone.

Leave the stone no more than 1/2 inch higher than you want the final height to be, and then make a couple passes with a hand tamper or plate compactor. Youll notice the stone is almost 100 percent compacted as soon as its laid in the trench. The same type of stone will be used for backfilling, which also eliminates the need for hauling in multiple materials.

Continued here:
How to Build a Sturdy Retaining Wall That Will Last a Lifetime

Posted in Feature on August 8, 2019

It's Commander (2019 Edition) preview week! Woot!

We're trying something new this year, giving you the decklists earlier than the very end of the week. Here's how it's going to work:

We'll be adding a new article each day, so bookmark this page and check back then!

COMMANDER: Kadena, Slinking Sorcerer

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Guildgate";s:22:"field_card_image_front";a:0:{}}}i:79;O:8:"stdClass":3:{s:4:"type";s:4:"land";s:10:"deck_count";s:1:"1";s:9:"card_meta";O:8:"stdClass":2:{s:5:"title";s:25:"Rix Maadi, Dungeon Palace";s:22:"field_card_image_front";a:0:{}}}i:80;O:8:"stdClass":3:{s:4:"type";s:4:"land";s:10:"deck_count";s:1:"1";s:9:"card_meta";O:8:"stdClass":2:{s:5:"title";s:20:"Terramorphic Expanse";s:22:"field_card_image_front";a:0:{}}}i:81;O:8:"stdClass":3:{s:4:"type";s:4:"land";s:10:"deck_count";s:1:"1";s:9:"card_meta";O:8:"stdClass":2:{s:5:"title";s:23:"Temple of the False God";s:22:"field_card_image_front";a:0:{}}}}

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The Decks of Commander (2019 Edition) | MAGIC: THE GATHERING

deckstats.net | Magic: The Gathering Decks

With deckstats.net you can easily build or upload a Magic: The Gathering deck and share it with others - no registration required! And to help you create the perfect deck, deckstats.net will show you many different statistics on your build, such as the mana curve or the odds to draw a certain card.

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See your deck's mana curve, mana distribution and more, as well as the probability to draw each card by a given turn.

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House washing and Building Washing Specialists

At The Powerwash Guys cleaning is our business. It's what we do (and we do a lot of it) and we're really good at it. So why spend the time you could use honing your own skills doing something as mundane as cleaning? Let us give you the freedom to pursueyour dreams.

Hiring a professional power washing service is actually an incredibly economical idea. We're able to get done twice as much cleaning in half the time, which means it would take you four times as long to clean your house as it takes us! With our competitive rates, we're saving you time and money!

ServingFairfield and New Haven Counties in Connecticut Power Washing - Pressure Washing - Roof washing - House Washing - Deck Washing - Power Washing Connecticut

We're a family-owned and -operated business always have been, always will be. We've made cleaning of every variety from residences to industrial sites our life's work. Give us a call today and see what a difference we can make for you. And as always we want to Thank You for the opportunity to let us serve you.

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Power Washing - The Powerwash Guys

Use of high pressure water jet for cleaning hard surfaces

Pressure washing or power washing is the use of high-pressure water spray to remove loose paint, mold, grime, dust, mud, chewing gum and dirt from surfaces and objects such as buildings, vehicles and concrete surfaces. The volume of a mechanical pressure washer is expressed in gallons or litres per minute, often designed into the pump and not variable. The pressure, expressed in pounds per square inch, pascals, or bar, is designed into the pump but can be varied by adjusting the unloader valve. Machines that produce pressures from 750 to 30,000 psi (5 to 200 MPa) or more are available.

The terms pressure washing and power washing are used interchangeably in many scenarios, and there is some debate as to whether or not they are actually different processes.

A pressure washing surface cleaner is a tool consisting of two to four high-pressure jets on a rotating bar that swivels when water is flowing. This action creates a uniformed cleaning pattern that can clean flat surfaces at a rapid rate.

Hydro-jet cleaning is a more powerful form of power washing, employed to remove buildup and debris in tanks and lines.[1]

Pressure washing is employed by businesses and homeowners to reduce allergies, minimize hazards, and improve aesthetics. A pressure washer is used to clean surfaces such as:

Depending upon the surface to be cleaned, higher or lower pressure should be used, as well as the appropriate nozzle.

Pressure washer nozzles alter the direction of flow and velocity of the water. Nozzles allow users to reach a greater distance or apply more pressure to a difficult to clean surface, however, they can be dangerous. Nozzles are color coded for easy identification, with black nozzles covering the widest degree (65) and red nozzles covering the least (0). Great care should be taken when using a 0 nozzle as it can cause injury to the user and damage to surfaces.

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Pressure washing - Wikipedia

Sewer gas is a complex mixture of toxic and nontoxic gases produced and collected in sewage systems by the decomposition of organic household or industrial wastes, typical components of sewage.[1]

Sewer gases may include hydrogen sulfide, ammonia, methane, esters, carbon monoxide, sulfur dioxide and nitrogen oxides. Improper disposal of petroleum products such as gasoline and mineral spirits contribute to sewer gas hazards. Sewer gases are of concern due to their odor, health effects, and potential for creating fire or explosions.

Sewer gas is typically restricted from entering buildings through plumbing traps that create a water seal at potential points of entry. In addition, plumbing vents allow sewer gases to be exhausted outdoors. Infrequently used plumbing fixtures may allow sewer gas to enter a home due to evaporation of water in the trap, especially in warm weather. The result is the most common means of sewer gas entering buildings and can be solved easily by using the fixtures regularly or adding water to their drains. One of the most common traps to dry out are floor drains such as those typically placed near home furnaces, water heaters and rooms with underfloor heating. Infrequently used utility sinks, tubs, showers, and restrooms also are common culprits. Trap primers are available that automatically add water to remote or little used traps such as these. Blocked plumbing vents, typically at the roof, also can cause water seals to fail via siphoning of the water.

Exposure to sewer gas also can happen if the gas seeps in via a leaking plumbing drain or vent pipe, or even through cracks in a buildings foundation. Sewer gas is typically denser than atmospheric gases and may accumulate in basements, but may eventually mix with surrounding air. Individuals who work in sanitation industries or on farms might be exposed on the job if they clean or maintain municipal sewers, manure storage tanks, or septic tanks.

In buildings with HVAC air handlers that admit outside air for ventilation, plumbing vents placed too closely to air intakes or windows can be a source of sewer gas odors. In some cases airflow around buildings and wind effects may contribute to sewer gas odor problems even with appropriately separated vents and air intakes. Increasing vent heights, adding vent pipe filters, or providing powered dilution and exhaust can help reduce occurrences.

During the mid-1800s, when indoor plumbing was being developed, it was a common idea that disease was caused largely by miasmas, or literally "polluted air."[2] (Malaria, a disease spread by mosquitoes that breed in marshy areas, got its name from the Italian words for "bad air" because people initially blamed it on marsh gas.) Originally, traps in plumbing drain pipes were designed to help keep this bad air from passing back into living spaces within buildings. However, during the Broad Street cholera outbreak in London, in the Summer of 1854, physician John Snow, among others, worked to prove that polluted water was the culprit, not the foul smells from sewage pipes.[3][4] Subsequently, even as the germ theory of disease developed, society was slow to accept the idea that odors from sewers were relatively harmless when it came to the spread of disease.

In most homes, sewer gas may have a slightly unpleasant odor, but does not often pose a significant health hazard.[5] Residential sewer pipes primarily contain the gases found in air (nitrogen, oxygen, carbon dioxide, etc.).[6] Often, methane is the gas of next highest concentration, but typically remains at nontoxic levels, especially in properly vented systems. However, if sewer gas has a distinct rotten egg smell, especially in sewage mains, septic tanks, or other sewage treatment facilities, it may be due to hydrogen sulfide content, which can be detected by human olfactory senses in concentrations as low as parts per billion. Exposure to low levels of this chemical can irritate the eyes, cause a cough or sore throat, shortness of breath, and fluid accumulation in the lungs. Prolonged low-level exposure may cause fatigue, pneumonia, loss of appetite, headaches, irritability, poor memory, and dizziness. High concentrations of hydrogen sulfide (>150 ppm) can produce olfactory fatigue, whereby the scent becomes undetectable. At higher concentrations (>300 ppm), hydrogen sulfide can cause loss of consciousness and death. Very high concentrations (>1000 ppm) can result in immediate collapse, occurring after a single breath.

Sewer gas can contain methane and hydrogen sulfide, both highly flammable and potentially explosive substances. As such, ignition of the gas is possible with flame or sparks.[7]The methane concentration in open sewers is lower (7 to 15 ppmv) than the closed drains (up to 300 ppmv) in samples collected 2 cm above the level of sewage.[8]

Fully vented sewer gases contribute to greenhouse gas emissions. Septic vent pipes can be fitted with filters that remove some odors.[citation needed]

Sewer gas can be used as a power source, thus reducing the consumption of fossil fuels. The gas is piped into a cleaning system and then used as a fuel to power a generator or combined heat and power (CHP) plant.

Gases present in sewerage can strongly impact materialdurability due to the action of microorganisms. The most deleterious one is associated to hydrogen sulfide that can result in biogenic sulfide corrosion or microbial corrosion. In worst cases, it may lead to the collapse of the structure with significant cost for its rehabilitation.

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Sewer gas - Wikipedia

A sewer drain clog can be a serious problem that may qualify as a plumbing emergency and a potential health concern. Without a route to the main sewer system or septic field, wastewater may have nowhere to go but to back up into your fixtures or up through floor drains. When faced with a sewer line drain clog, you should not use any of the plumbing in the home until the stoppage is cleared out.

Homes with city sewer service have a single horizontal sewer drain pipe running underground from the house to the street. The drain pipe is usually 4 inches in diameter but can be as small as 3 inches. This main sewer drain pipe under the yard is connected to the main drain inside the house, which accepts the wastewater from the individual branch drains serving each plumbing fixture, including sinks, tubs, showers, and toilets, as well as the washing machine. These branch drains are smaller pipes, usually 1 1/4 to 2 1/2 inches in diameter. If the main sewer drain is clogged, it can eventually back up all of the drains in the house, which is why such a clog can be so serious. At the very least, a clogged main sewer drain pipe may cause wastewater and raw sewage to back up through a floor drain into the basement or floor of an hour home.

Here are some signs that you may be facing a clog in the main sewer drain line.

Multiple Fixtures Are Clogged

Anobvious sign of a sewer drain clog is when more than one plumbing fixture backs up at the same time. Toilets are often the first fixture to experience problems,but any other low-lying fixture can also be involved, such as a shower or bathtub on the main level of your home. If you suspect that you have a sewer drain clog, start by checking the toilet, followed by other fixtures.

Unusual Reactions When Using Fixtures

Check for odd sounds or behavior at the following fixtures, starting at the lowest level of the house. The main sewer drains usually become clogged somewhere between the house and the street, and because backups start at the clog and move up, so the lowest drains and fixtures are usually the first to back up.

A drain clean-out is a special fitting or a short pipe attached to a drain pipe. It usually has a round threaded plug with a square, nut-like stub on the end. It can be located at the bottom of the large vertical soil stack or is sometimes mounted on the floor at the point where the horizontal main drain pipe runs out to the sewer main. Gripping the nut with pliers or a pipe wrench allows you to unscrew and removethe plug to access the inside of the pipe. Most homes have at least one clean-out on their main drain or main sewer line. They are usually located in the basement or crawlspace or in the yard. If your problem will require assistance from a sewer specialist, this is the fitting he will use to attempt to clean the main drain.

However, be very careful before removing a clean-out plug in the basement or crawlspace. If your main drain is backed up into the house, there may be a lot of wastewaterand pressurein the pipe; any water and waste in the pipe above the clean-out fitting will gush out as soon as the plug is removed. If you begin to see wastewater seeping out as you loosen the plug, it's a sign you should put the plug back.

If your clean-out fitting is outside the house, you can attempt to remove the plug, but be careful. If water oozes out while you're loosening the plug, tighten the plug and call a plumber or drain specialist. If you can remove the plug without a spillover, look into the drain with a flashlight; any water in the pipe indicates a clog in the main sewer drain pipe.

Don't run the water or flush the toilet! If you don't add water to your drain system, you can't make the problem worse (that is, if the clog is in your line and not the city's main; see below). As an added precaution, you can shut off the main water supply to the house so that no one runs the water by accident. Tell everyone in the house not to use water, then call a plumber or drain specialist to have the drain cleared. These professionals have special equipment, including motorized augers, to quickly and effectively remove large clogs in the main sewer drains.

If you live in an established community rather than in a rural area, your home's sewer drain connects to the city sewer main under the street. If your house main drain is backed up, chances are the clog is in your own sewer drain line, but it's possible the city sewer main has a major blockage. Either way, your home's drains will behave the same way, although sometimes city backups have enough pressure to actually force raw sewage into home drains, flooding bathrooms.

The best way to tell whether the problem belongs to you or the city is to check with your close neighbors. If they also have problems, there is a good chance the problem lies with the city sewer main. If city utility workers come out to investigate, they are allowed to repair only problems with the main sewer line; they can't handle problems with your individual main sewer drain pipe. Be aware, though, that you and your neighbors may be assessed and billed to pay for repairs to a sewer main problem confined to your neighborhood.

In rural areas, wastewater and sewage does not flow to a municipal sewer system but instead flows out to a septic tank and drainage field in your yard, where the water gradually seeps down into the soil and raw sewage safely decomposes beneath the ground under bacterial action. The main drain backup in these systems sometimes occurs when the septic tank or drainage field becomes full or saturated, at which point it can no longer accept additional wastewater. Such a situation often occurs during localized flooding conditions, or if the septic system is undersized for the needs of the home. Such problems with a septic system will require help from a professional service, whose response may be to pump out the septic tank. Severe and recurring problems may require major work, involving digging up the yard to make modifications to the system.

Link:
Symptoms of a Sewer Drain Clog - thespruce.com

The attic plays a key role in the durability of a house and the safety of the people living there. If you don't pay close attention to the attic's venting, moisture can propagate mold growth and cause the roof's wood to rot.

What's the best way to ventilate an attic?

The basic concept is to get the right amount of air circulating throughout, while preventing moist air from coming in. Proper ventilation creates an air current for the water vapor to ride on and exit the attic, which also helps to dry out any existing moisture.

The best practice is to create a continuous ridge-and-soffit ventilation system, which creates a continuous flow of air upward from the eaves or soffits out through the ridge.

Before you start, check with the local code official for any special requirements pertaining to attic venting in your area.

Here's how to create a ventilating system:

1. First, determine how large the vents need to be by calculating the "net free ventilating area" according to the following equation:

2. Select the dimension and type of materials for the ridge and soffit vents according to your required net free ventilating area, as well as local codes.

3. Keep in mind that at least 50 to 80 percent of this ventilating area must come from the ridge vent. For the example above, the ridge venting area would be 216 to 346 square inches.

4. Framing a roof with this kind of ventilation is, for the most part, traditional with only a few differences.

5. At the ridge, hold back the roof sheathing 1 1/2 inches on both sides, leaving a 3-inch gap running the length to cover the required net free area.

6. To create the soffit vent, cut a notch into the roof rafters, called a "birds mouth," and allow them to over-hang the exterior wall far enough to create the space needed for the net free area.

7. Cover the roof as usual and install the ridge vent last, as a cap, following the manufacturer's specifications.

8. Finish off the soffit vent by attaching a J channel and sliding in a perforated vinyl or aluminum soffit material. This completes the construction.

9. Seal any penetrations in the attic floor such as ceiling fans, recessed lights, plumbing vents, or HVAC ducts. Use a caulk or expanding foam to seal the openings.

10. Insert baffles, which look like w-shaped polystyrene sheets, at the eaves by the soffit. These baffles keep insulation from blocking the venting area.

11. Finally, insulate between the ceiling joists of the attic floor using insulation with an R value of 25 to 38.

Many builders used to use gable vents or hood vents to create air flow, but these practices didn't circulate air around all surfaces of the roof assembly. Instead, they would localize air flow, leaving areas of the attic susceptible to mold growth.

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Attic Ventilation | HGTV

First the bad news: if you neglect spring lawn care (and related concerns about your mower), you could end up paying for it the rest of the year. Now the good news: the chores required of you in spring don't entail nearly the amount of work that you'll have to invest in mowing alone throughout the summer months.

In fact, you mightneed to implement only about half of the following ten tips for spring lawn care, depending upon your unique circumstances. Furthermore, there are a few instances below that the task in question is better performed as part of your fall lawn careif you can wait that long.

Raking will be your first task of spring lawn care. You're likely saying, "But we already raked leaves in the fall!" Sorry, but raking is for more than just removing leaves: it's for controlling thatch, too. A thatch build-up of more than 1/2 inch is considered excessive.

Thatch is the reason whyit's recommended that, when you rake leaves in the fall, you make an effort to rake deeply. Don't just skim the surface so as merely to remove the leaves. A deep raking will remove thatch, too, allowing you to kill two birds with one stone. Even if you followed this advice in fall, a spring raking is still recommended as it will remove grass blades that died over the winter -- dead blades that are just waiting to become thatch.

But there's often another good reason for a spring raking. As you survey your lawn in spring, see if there are any matted patches, in which the grass blades are all stuck together. This can be caused by a disease known as "snow mold." New grass may have difficulty penetrating these matted patches. But raking will be sufficient to solve this problem.

When you perform any of these spring lawn care tasks will depend upon the climate of your region. But Mother Nature provides obvious cues in some cases. For instance, when you're pretty sure the snow season (if you have one) is over in your region, begin raking. Applying pre-emergent herbicides (see Tip #6) should be done sometime between the time the local forsythia bushes stop blooming and the time the local lilac bushes begin blooming.

If your lawn is subjectto high levels of traffic year after year, it may eventually start to show signs of decline. In such cases, your lawn is probably suffering from compacted soil. For instance, the presence of moss signals compaction (among other things). You can get rid of it, but successful eradication begins with the recognition that moss shouldn't be treated as "just another weed."

Lawn aeration is the remedy for compaction. The good news is that lawn aerators can be rented at your local rental center. The bad news is that the experts recommend postponing lawn aeration until fall. But if during your "spring lawn checkup," you become aware of compaction, at least you can plan on setting aside some time in the fall to take care of it.

Besides compaction, the presence of moss plants also signals acidity. But grass likes a neutral pH. You can solve this problem by liming your soil. But don't expect a quick fix: the effects of liming are slow to take place.

But first, send a soil sample to your local county extension to determine the extent of your soil's acidity. The county extension will also be able to advise you on how much lime per square foot you'll need. Apply the lime using a fertilizer spreader.

But if your lawn has been doing fine and shows no signs of suffering from acidity, don't apply lime. Liming is only a corrective measure, not a preventive measure. A soil that is too alkaline will also cause your lawn problems, so too much lime is as bad as not enough.

Is your lawn riddled with bare patches due to dog spots, heavy traffic, or neglect? If so, you may need to apply grass seed to fill in those bare patches. This solution is known as "overseeding lawns." Apply a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer when you overseed. Five weeks after the grass germinates, apply quick-release nitrogen fertilizer.

However, spring isn't the very best time for overseeding lawns. Fall is the preferred time when the new grass won't have to compete with crabgrass, which is killed off by autumn frosts. So postpone overseeding until fall, unless your situation is dire.

Lawns can be fertilized organically by using compost and mulching mowers. But for those who prefer chemical fertilizers, Scotts provides a schedule for fertilizing lawns. Many experts, however, recommend a lighter feeding in spring and a heavier one in late fall for the types of lawn grasses known as "cool-season grasses." Too much fertilizer in spring can lead to disease and weed problems. And if you have, indeed, already fertilized in late fall, your lawn is still "digesting" that fertilizer in spring.

For those who prefer weed-free lawns, spring grass care is as much about weed prevention as it is about fosteringhealthy lawn growth. Novices are often surprised to learn that not all lawn weeds are battled in the same manner. Depending upon whether a weed is an annual or perennial, you will use a preemergent herbicide or a post-emergent herbicide against it (although landscapers commonly use bothpreemergent and post-emergent crabgrass killers-- an indication of how tough that weed is to battle).

If you know that you have a problem with the annual weed, crabgrass, then fertilization in spring should go hand in hand with the application of preemergent herbicides. As their name suggests, preemergent herbicides addressweed control, not after the fact, butbeforetheir seedlings can even emerge. Preemergent herbicides accomplish this by forming something of a "shield" that inhibits seed germination. Don't undertake core aerationafter applying preemergent herbicides: to do so would be to "puncture" this shield, thereby decreasing its effectiveness.

Crabgrass begins its assault on lawns in spring when its seeds germinate. Overseeding should be carried out in autumn, rather than spring, based in part on the threat posed by a spring crabgrass invasion. "So why not just begin bykilling the crabgrassfirst with a pre-emergent herbicide?" perhaps you ask. Well, the trouble is that most preemergent herbicides work against not onlyweed seeds, butgrassseeds, as well!

You can appreciate the dilemma here. Overseeding is incompatible with the application of most preemergent herbicides. Facedwith competition from crabgrassin spring, you may find it difficult to establish your new grass. So while it's still possible to overseed in spring, it's simply easier to do so in fall. There will be no competition from crabgrass then because the fall frosts kill off crabgrass.

If youmustoverseed in the spring, look for a product called, "Tupersan." Unlike other preemergent herbicides, Tupersan will not damagegerminating lawn grass seed. But if you're committed to staying away from chemicals altogether in your spring grass care, postpone overseeding till fall.

Keep an eye out for the emergence of theperennialweed, dandelion during the spring season, unless you find the presence of their cheerful yellow flowers in your lawn desirable. At the very least, you'll want to snap off their flower stems before they produce seed. If you're more ambitious, you can dig them out by the roots. Sprayingdandelion weedswith post-emergent herbicides is more effective in fall than in spring. If you do choose to spray, you must select an herbicide forbroadleafweeds.

Besides proper spring grass care, there's more you need to do to get ready for a summer filled with lawn mowing. Don't neglect preparations concerning the lawn mower itself.

No other power equipment is as intimately associated with and essential to landscaping as is the lawn mower. You need to have one that will consistently get the job done without any hassles throughout the lawn mowing season. And you should also know how to use one to your best advantage. Consequently, the final three of my ten tips focus on caring for, selecting and using these machines.

Mowing the lawnall summer can be tiring enough, right? Why make it more difficult on yourself by putting up with a lawnmower that doesn't start up immediately? When your unit is stubborn about starting up, that can be a sign that it needs a tuneup.

Although its often possible to get by without one, it is recommended that you have a mower tuneup each year. Don't put it off till summer or pay someone else to do it. Learn how to tune one up yourself.

Or perhaps you're fed up with your oldlawnmower? Is it time for a change? Research and decide on which type is best suited to your own unique landscaping needs.

"What's there to knowabout lawn mowing?" perhaps you ask. "You just push the lawn mower, and it cuts the grass, right?" At the most basic level, Yes. And if lawn mowing is merely a mindless chore that you perform to satisfy other people (and you don't care much about the health of your grass), then you needn't know any more about it.

However, if youdocare about the health of your grass, there's a bit more to lawn mowing than just keeping your grass short enough to prevent the neighborhood from thinking your house has been abandoned. Spring is a good time to learn (or review) lawn mowing strategiesbefore it becomes so hot outside that it's hard to think!

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How to Prepare Your Lawn for Spring - The Spruce

One of the most common questions we hear as a professional lawn service in Lancaster, PA is What if it rains after my lawn care treatment? Its a fair question. When you hire a lawn maintenance company to care for your yard you are placing your trust in that organization to do what is not only best for your lawn, but also whats best for you. The last thing you want is to waste your hard-earned money and have lawn applications not work to their full potential. A good lawn care company will want those same things for you and your lawn as well.

Running a service business that is impacted by weather is always a challenge. It requires an organization to get these treatments done in a timely manner when the time is best for your lawn. Spring and fall can be very challenging if Mother Nature decides to rain a little bit more than expected, or if winter hangs on a little too long and pushes schedules back. Crabgrass control, grub control, weed control, and other materials have a limited window to work at their best so youre lawn service is trying the best they can to take care of every client with the best of care. If they are committed to high quality and have integrity, they will try to make the right decision. Days that call for heavy or steady rain all day will not be great days for treating lawns. Its days like these that we often call-off our lawn care technicians and perform these treatments another day. However, we all know that weather and its forecasts can be fickle, and there are days that require us to try to get what we can accomplished until Mother Nature changes her mind and sends our technicians home early. Likewise, there are stray thunderstorms and downpours that can pop-up from time to time.

If its been 10-14 days since your last weed control treatment and arent seeing results because of an immediate rain event, please contact us.

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Rain After Lawn Care Treatment? | Tomlinson Bomberger